Deserts and Camels

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Dale plays a dombyra (a long-necked Kazakh lute)

How Far Have They Got?

Map of progress so far.

Charity Update

Many thanks to those that have donated.

20190726_CharityDonations

Week 6 Summary: Ural River & Caspian Sea

This map shows this weeks ride.

20190727_BRJ_Odometer

This week: 448miles, 3,224ft and 39:32 hours riding

Accumulated totals: 3667 miles, 76,238ft and 278:52 hours riding

Day 38: Sunday July 21st: First Camels

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Route Day 38 – July 21st

Fly-through Map of Day 38.

After we found a little hotel/hostel in the town we were unsure if the deal included any food but sure enough the lady knocked on the door with a couple of trays of food. Excellent! It was quite good rice and chicken with salad, Keith and Linney were pleased as I could just lift my chicken off the bowl.

Then we thought we had ordered a couple of beers each, though it turnedout to be tea!

We did manage to find some beers later.

In the morning it was a gamble again as we ordered breakfast at 07:00. Nothing turned up so we dug into our supplies, and then hit the road just before 08:00.

On the first section we had to retrace our route back over the river,where we stopped for water and then hit the road proper. Linney had done his research: a breakfast stop at 16 miles, then a 34 mile section and then a 24 mile section to finish with one possible place to stay. But we were not very hopeful of this.

Keith picks up the skull of a cow. Dale is not amused.
Keith picks up the skull of a cow. Dale is not amused.

We cruised the first section and stopped for breakfast. After this the road had started to get a little bit rough. Linney spotted a rotten cow carcass in the ditch by the side of the road and Keith went down and salvaged the skull and horns for some pictures. Not for me!

They have Camel Crossings in Kazakhstan!
They have Camel Crossings in Kazakhstan!

As we put on the miles Keith spotted the first camels by the side of the road, I had noticed two on our side of the road but thought they were horses! We stopped for some pictures and then pushed on. Further on we saw a shepherd with his herd of goats driving them across the road.

There really is not much on this road, so we carried on nearly to the end point. We stopped at a petrol station for an ice cream – Kazazh petrol stations do not do ice creams, much to Keith disgust! He settled for a chocolate bar, then was dismayed when the girl behind the counter tipped herself with a chocolate bar rather than giving him the change. A bit of a mistake on her part, she soon relented and gave him is change, or we would still be there.

With around 2 miles to go we pulled over and chatted to some local young lads. They said there was an hotel about 3 miles down the main road, but also made a few laughs and giggles, hence we decided to stock up on supplies in the village supermarket first.

As we came out of the shop a shady guy approached us, asked us where were heading and staying, we told him what we were doing, then he said come back to his house, we could camp there. So we followed him home. It later transpired that it was his parents house. We arrived at the house all hot and sweaty and then we were ushered into a large shed with seats and a basic kitchen.

Within minutes they were serving us with a bowl of yogurt drink “kumys” not ideal but we all tried it, then homemade bread, jam and sugar. Keith politely ask the guy how to eat it. He just picked up a lump of bread stuck it in the jam then put it straight in his mouth – pretty easy really. The came the tea “char” which was really good.

We then started to ask were we could put up our tents and went out into the garden and decided on two pitches. Linney & Keith started to get the tents ready while I tried to look busy. I did strike a little bit lucky as I was talking to the older guy and he said why not sleep in the big shed were we had just eaten. Result all around – so the tents were put away for another day.

Now it’s shower time! It was a wooden shack at the bottom of next doors garden with an 80 gallon plastic drum on the top. Though I must say it did work and we did feel a lot cleaner afterwards. We asked the guy where the local ATM was and he offered to walk down with us. Unfortunately it did not work so he flagged a passing car down and they gave us a lift to the next one. It seems to be a local thing that you can flag cars down and ask for a lift. We also got some beers for our host and us and then made are way back, via another flagged down car.

Beers and salted Perch
Beers and salted Perch
Salted Perch for dinner
Salted Perch for dinner
Keith tastes the salted Perch.
Keith tastes the salted Perch

We later found out it was an anniversary party for the guys parents over the weekend, we sat outside on an old hay cart chatted and shared the beers. Then the old guy got some dried salted perch out to go with the beers. I quickly reverted back to vegetarian and offered Keith up to taste it. Later I saw him throw it in the long grass!

Family dinner - crossed-legs on carpet.
Family dinner – crossed-legs on carpet.
Family dinner - crossed-legs on carpet.
Family dinner – crossed-legs on carpet.
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Dale plays a dombyra (a long-necked Kazakh lute)

The party just kept on going with all the men sitting on the old hay cart, guys playing the guitar and dombyra (a long-necked Kazakh lute) and singing partisan songs all very lively. More food was served: meat soup with fresh bread, fruits and more char, all served up by the ladies but they did not join in. We eventually was able to go to bed around midnight, a really long, but great day.

Day 39: Monday July 22nd: Home Cooking

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Route Day 39 – July 22nd

Fly-through Map of Day 39.

We woke up pretty early considering how late we got to bed last night and had to go through the none European ablutions test again in the morning, well I did! I walked around the shed three times, then went for it, really scared I would fall in and then that would be that last they heard from me! Linney & Keith decided to wait.

We slept on the kitchen floor here!
We slept on the kitchen floor here!
Breakfast at home
Breakfast at home

As we were getting our kit ready breakfast was prepared: porridge, bread and jam and char. Very nice! We had to drag Linney away. The older guy explained the best route to Atyrau was out of the village then over the river, not what we had in mind, but he assured us the road was better that way, he even hand drew us a map. I wrote a thank you note to them with a gift of English money. We did not want to offend them but really wanted to show our gratitude. After the customary photo shoot and handshakes the older guy escorted us out of the village to the new bridge a distance of about 5 miles in his 4 wheel drive Lada. We said are final farewell to him as we carried on.

Dale saying farewell
Dale saying farewell

We have planned a relatively steady day in the saddle around 55 miles with a plan of getting to a bike shop in Atyrau. With no real urgency we just ghosted through the miles and stopped at a little truck stop for a coffee. The proprietor and her family were really nice so we went through the photo shoot routine again, the lovely lady came out with bottles of water and coke for us, we took on the water but thanked her for the coke and said we had no room.

Then Linney said he needed to clean his teeth, never seen it before but he managed to open his front pannier bag, get his wash bag out locate his tooth brush and paste and clean his teeth all on the go. Keith and I can barely manage a wave!.

The Ural River
The Ural River

As we go closer to Atyrau the traffic built up. The waving and horn blowing stopped as a good will gesture, now it just meant ‘get out of the way’. We tried to find a bike shop. Found one but it did not have the gear we wanted so we made our way to the hotel that Linney had booked. We booked in no problem and I went to the bar to order a beer – no alcohol, he has only booked a dry hotel!

We went out later to locate the last cycling shop on our list. The Hotel receptionist ordered us a taxi and told us how much to pay. She even gave us her number in case we got into trouble. We went nt to the shop and managed to get some inner tubes but not pannier brackets. We got a taxi back into town where, as anticipated, the driver tried to rip us off. We phoned the lady from the hotel who managed to sort it out. The taxi driver was not happy.

We had a meal then went back to the hotel to rest up and start to plan the next few days.

Day 40: Tuesday July 23rd: Salt Pans and Snakes

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Route Day 40 – July 23rd

Fly-through Map of Day 40.

Linney and Keith went down for a coffee in the hotel around 21:00. I was busy catching up on the blog stuff, then the hotel dished out another meal for them chicken and rice, still no beer so I was OK with that.

Dale. Bear and Gnome
Dale. Bear and Gnome

We were up at the normal time just after 06:00.  After getting ready we went down for our fried egg breakfast. It had a little twist today: fried bread not fresh.

We were just about to hit the road when we noticed Linney’s back tyre was a little flat, which is a little concerning as his spare is very dodgy too. We gave it a bit of air and we’ll see how we go.

Linney expertly got us out of the city in under 20 mins, mainly because we were on the dry side of the city! Then on the road to Dossor against a bit of a head wind which looked like it would stay with us all day. Hey ho!, just have to pedal a little harder.

Keith with a dried up salt-pan behind
Keith with a dried up salt-pan behind

We stopped at little truck stop for a coffee and cake. Well I had the last bit of cake and pulled the vegetarian card again. Keith and Linney had a potato fritter (it’s a gamble what is inside them), then went next door to the garage to see if we could get an ice cream – no luck. We filled up with water and took on some extra water, as the next stop, looked like it was just a picnic stop, in around 24 miles time.

Smooth Snake (Coronella austriaca), beside the road
Smooth Snake (Coronella austriaca), beside the road
Smooth Snake (Coronella austriaca), beside the road
Smooth Snake (Coronella austriaca), beside the road
Salt-Pans
Salt-Pans

Still pushing against an ever increasing head wind we pedalled on, looking at the dried out salt lakes. Then Linney made a little bit of a girlie dance on his bike – only he can do that. Then he shouted snake! Keith was on its trail like a flash, jumping off his bike and handing it to me. All I could see was bloody desert but then finally a spotted it. Keith chased it down the bank, then dangerously back up the bank towards me, clicking madly on his camera. I was ready to ditch his bike if it came any closer to me, luckily it went down a hole about a metre before it reached us. When it all calmed down Linney identified the snake as a fast slow worm or “tardum velox vermis” we will have to wait for the editor (Dale’s gone all Boris with his Latin: Ed) to confirm this exciting discovery.

European mantis (Mantis religiosa) - probably
European mantis (Mantis religiosa) – probably

Before we knew it we were approaching the second stop: not the picnic site we thoughtbut  a little café, with some very pleasant girls serving. We had coffee and the normal fare: a meat goulash thing for Linney and Keith and rice for me – all very good. We all had a really good rest as the head wind was taking its toll a little. Keith made the effort to say come on “lets go” (the only phrase the Kazakhi’s know) so Linney and I followed, though Linney stalled at the entrance spotting a Praying mantis or “Orantes mantis” once again the ED will confirm the species (Dales got the hang of Google Translate: Ed).

Dale and Linford, with Eagle
Dale and Linford, with Eagle
Keith and Dale and a boundary marker. The Eagle has landed!
Keith and Dale and a boundary marker. The Eagle has landed!

Just as Keith and I were pulling out onto the road we heard a shout from Linney ‘I have a flat!’ Back we turned. His tyre is worn out. Keith cut up a plastic bottle to cover the two worst wear patches on the tyre, fitted a new inner tube and off we set again. Within a mile, another puncture.The plastic had rubbed on the inner tube. We tried Linneys spare tyre that does not sit correctly on the wheel, still no good, so went with the worm tyre at a lower pressure hopefully that will work. On we went for the last 18 mile. Thankfully it lasted!

On the way to Dossor both Linney and Keith cut up some old truck inner tubes to patch up the tyre when we get to our unknown hotel/camp tonight. We stopped just outside Dossor. Keith ordered a coffee, I quickly done the maths we were less than 5 miles from the town, so I had a beer. In the end we all had a beer.

We rolled into the town with Linney at the helm guiding us to the hotel/hostel which we duly found with ease. We managed to book in easily: the guy and his wife were very helpful and gave us a bucket and sponge to clean our bikes down. Linney had a plan to line his tyre with the old truck inner tube so he started on that. I cleaned and serviced my bike as best I could. Keith did the same to Linneys and then went down to the supermarket and bank with the hostel owner.

I cleaned Keiths bike and then when he returned told him he had loose spokes on the back wheel and a broken spoke on the front wheel – not good, but repairable, which Keith easily managed.

Kazakh food. Delicious.
Kazakh food. Delicious.

The place didn’t have a shower but I manged a bucket wash before the water ran out, so we just went out as we were. Eventually we found a place that was open athough it was only traditional Kazazh food which was good for us.

Then it was back to the hostel for some well-earned rest.

Day 41: Wednesday July 24th: Flats and Markets

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Route Day 41 – July 24th

Fly-through Map of Day 41.

Happy 60th Birthday to Ray Skelton: a true athlete and a valuable member of many of our Tours. We were all stirring in our beds, Ray would have been doing star jumps or some yoga pose, but as laid back athletes, we just laid about knackered!

Breakfast in style
Breakfast in style

The owner knocked on the door to say breakfast was ready. We had to go over to the annex and Linney was impressed with the ceiling detail: he is getting right into his architecture. We were more impressed with the breakfast: three fried eggs, home-made bread and biscuits and char – all good.

Linford, ready to leave
Linford, ready to leave

We set off about 08:15 with cloudy skies, and as it is Ray’s birthday Keith did the weather report: sorry Ray not raining, but overcast until the afternoon. We soon made our way out of the small town into a bit of a head-wind, with the knowledge that there is not a lot going on this road today, just a matter of riding through the head-wind. Easy – really better than working for a living.

After a couple of hours of riding we did spot a small truck stop where we managed to get a coffee and replenish our water supply. There was another stop about an hours ride away and that’s were we planned to have our lunch stop. On we went into the head-wind again. We are getting used to these Kazazh stops. I had the fried rice, with Keith and Linney having the pasta and dumplings.

Lunch in style
Lunch in style – lie down and have tea

After lunch we knew we had about a 40 mile ride with nothing between. Allegedly the wind was going to die down, according to Keith’s weather App. Just after this stop Linney had the first of his back tyre incidents, with a really worn out back tyre, in which he had glued strips of an old truck inner tube onto the inside to try and protect it. Well this did not work: the patches rubbed on the tube causing punctures. We tried Linney’s spare tyre again, with no luck as very soon half of it had come off the rim again. So back to the old tyre, with less pressure than normal. We still had around 20 miles to go before we hit Kulsary, even then we did not know if we could get a replacement tyre there.

Railway tracks. Soviet Gauge 5' or 1520mm
Railway tracks. Soviet Gauge 5′ or 1520mm
Triumphal Arch arrival for Dale
Triumphal Arch arrival for Dale

With a bit of luck we were soon at another truck stop 10 miles from the town. Keiths app was correct, the sun was out and the wind had died down so we made good progress. We had the normal coffee, soft drinks and photographs with the locals before we headed to Kulsary.

The local market
The local market
Keith buying tyres and inner tubes at the local market
Keith buying tyres and inner tubes at the local market

As we entered the town it was the normal chaos: cars and buses everywhere. Linney was leading the way and then he stopped and said he’d just spotted some cycle tyres in a market over the road about 50m away. I could just about see the entrance to the market stalls, never mind the tyres. Sure enough there were a couple of stores selling tyres and such. I looked after the bikes while Linney and Keith investigated further. They came back with two tyres, quality unknown but 100% better that what we currently have, another great result.

Dinner in style. I think that's tea in the long tube.
Dinner in style. I think that’s tea in the long tube.

With still no hotel booked we carried on into the town chatting with the locals via their open car windows – all good fun – then found the hotel. Within 20 minutes we were all sorted. With a plan to find a place to eat, and sort the tyres out in the morning. After a quick shower we set of for the restaurant, for some well-earned food.

All in all a pretty frustrating day in the saddle, but all’s well that ends well.

Day 42: Thursday July 25th: Fellow Cyclist

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Fly-though Map for Day 42.

Breakfast at the hotel was not until 08.00, so it was up at the normal time, then sort the bikes out and replace Linney’s tyre. With that done and all the bags loaded we went for breakfast: cottage cheese, fried eggs, yoghurt, bread and char tea.

Ready for departure
Ready for departure

We were on our bikes rolling just after 9. This was not a problem as we only had 60 odd miles to do today (easy!). We stopped just of town to stock up on water and the normal photo shoot. We soon made it out of town on a long road with a little head wind.

Once again we get pulled over by some security guys who want the customary photos and a telephone conversation with their friend who spoke English. Off we went again, with both the temperature and wind rising. Next the familiar shout went up Linneys rear tyre had disintergrated – it only lasted 12 miles. Obviously it was made in the same place and same quality as the cleats Dave Austen once brought on a previous tour.

We swapped the rear tyre for his spare, thinking and hoping this one is better. Off we went again at a slow pace into the ever increasing headwind. We were following a railway line and after 2 1/2 hours riding we had only covered 24 miles.

Keith and Dale meet a fellow cycle-tourist from Belarus
Keith and Dale meet a fellow cycle-tourist from Belarus
LInford and Dale meet a fellow cycle-tourist from Belarus
LInford and Dale meet a fellow cycle-tourist from Belarus

Linney spotted a railway halt and tried to knock on the door to get more water to no answer, so we had 10 minutes in the shade. We then heard a train come, we all had the same thought let’s jump on it, unfortunately it was going the wrong way! Though the guy did come out with his flags, shooed the camels of the track and then waved the train through.

We asked if he had any water and he just pointed over the track and gave us a bucket with a rope on. We found the well and lifted the cover and lowered the bucket. The water was cold and looked OK but we ran it through our water purifier and drank it no problem. After filling all our water bottles up we set off again. The temperature was rising now,  and this coupled with the head wind made for extremely difficult cycling.

The temperature soars to 42 degrees
The temperature soars to 42 degrees

We limped along to the next truck stop. Had lunch and I had a power nap: Linney obviously captured it on his phone. When we came out the heat was unbelievable – 40 plus degrees so we decided to lay in the shade for a while. About 45 mins later we set off with the knowledge that we had around 30 miles to go. On we went pushing against the head wind in soaring temperatures. We thought there might be a truck stop in 12 miles and this took us over an hour and half.

Oil Country
Oil Country

Here we filled up on soft drinks and snacks and rested up with the final 18miles left to go. We also stocked up to camp if required. It was still tough going but we pulled through. A car stopped and offered Keith and I water, which we thankfully received and he ended up giving us the 5 Litre bottle.

As we pulled into the stop pictures of kebabs, chicken and pizza were on the wall. Linney said I don’t think this is the stop but Keith and I just looked and said ‘we are eating’. The only other people in the place are a load of mums, grandparents and children having some sort of party with really loud music. I was too knackered to join in.

After we finished eating we cycled down the road about a mile and came to the hostel that Linney had pin-dropped earlier. They had a room, so it was literally a cup of tea (no beer), shower and bed.

We had arranged for an early breakfast at 5 in the morning in an attempt to beat the heat.

Day 43: Friday July 26th: Plains and Trains

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Route Day 42 – July 26th

Keith set his alarm for 04:45 and it was a bit of a shock to the system when it went off, but we all knew it would be a lot cooler riding in the morning. When we went around to the eating area you could tell we were all thinking the same thing: that wind seems worse than yesterday.

After breakfast we packed up all the gear and set off and sure enough the wind was worse and we were struggling to ride above 6 mph. We just toiled along using every bit of energy we had. Linney and I stopped and waited for Kieth and he explained that his crank was making a horrible noise. He stopped and tightened it up but the noise was still there.

Great Gerbil (Rhombomys opimus), possibly
Great Gerbil (Rhombomys opimus), possibly

We finally made it to our first stop at 36 miles and had lunch and took on loads of fluids. When we were ready to we realised that Keith’s crank needed to be stripped down and cleaned out. We tried to carry on but to no avail. Linney checked the mapand it looked like there was a train station further on, so we limped to the station and found out there was a train to Beyneu in 3 1/2 hours time.

Dale and Slide Away Bear waiting for a train at Korkol Railway Station
Dale and Slide Away Bear waiting for a train at Korkol Railway Station
Linford at Korkol Railway Station
Linford at Korkol Railway Station
The Slide Away Bear at  Korkol Railway Station
The Slide Away Bear at Korkol Railway Station
Loading the train at Korkol Railway Station
Loading the train at Korkol Railway Station

We all sat down and took stock and finally decided to take the train for the last 20 miles and use the time to service the bikes etc. Obviously getting three fully laden bikes onto an already over crowed train was a bit of a nightmare but we managed it. Tt was the same at Beyneu station – but all part of the journey.

We eventually got out of the station and found an hotel in the city chao. We settled down with a beer and this always seems to make thing right.

Day 44: Saturday July 27th:

[No word from the team for a couple of days. Assuming wifi issues. Ed] [we heard from them on the Monday: so I’ve updated below: Ed]

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Route Day 44 – July 27th

Fly-through Map of Day 44.

We met up with some interesting guys last night they were from Portugal driving a beat up Renault from China back to Portugal. The car broke down 3 yrs ago and they had only just picked it up! Then we also met some Italian guys on motorbikes riding the Silk Road: they were in the same restaurant as us. Hence we are not the only crazy souls, just a little bit madder than them for doing it on a bicycle.

We had a border crossing today so we were all in out clean kit. Breakfast was at 08:00 so we had a bit of a lie in. It was a bit convoluted getting out of the town: we went all  out of the town the wrong way then over the railway line and then back the way we came!

Our a road was still being laid so the first ten miles was like swimming through treacle. when we came to the finished section it was music to our ears. The forty miles flew past at speeds we had not achieved for a good four days. We had a little stop just before the border to stock up on supplies.

We got through the Kazakhstan side with ease though coming out of a country is always easier. Then it was on to the Uzbekistan side. To be perfectly honest we sailed through there too. We also met two USA travellers on motorbikes, one of them got stopped for some reason.

We had a little bowl of soup and a beer in the border cafe, though we were pestered by the guys wanting to change currency. We changed what we had of Kazakhstan money about a tenner: bit of a mistake as we should have changed more. We were soon on our way on a quite good road and with only 14 miles to go so we were there in less than an hour.

The town was nothing more than a village with a garrison and custom centre. We had a cup of tea just before the village and had to be careful with our cash. We rode into the village and out of the desert came this guy on a beat up old bike with a flat tyre. He wanted it pumped up. I could see Keith wanting to say get lost, but we needed the karma so we duly obliged.

There was a bank but it was closed. We tried the little shop but they did not take a card. We then met up with an Army guy and some Customs guys who arranged for us to exchange Euros to Uzbek things [Uzbekistan Som: Ed]. We celebrated with an ice cream from the shop and decided to ride on a little bit more and camp.

Just before we rejoined the main road we stocked up on water and bought 2 beers each for the night. I had the bright idea to drink the beers in the shade while they were cold, rather than carrying them and having warm beers. If I say so myself: one of my better ideas. After we drunk the beers in the shade of a bus shelter we rode on another 12 miles until Linney decided on the camp site. On his head be it!

Overland To India

See how Ben and Jess are getting on as they take a more southern route across Asia to India.

Actually we’ve had no update from them this week. It’s possible they stayed the whole week in Istanbul.

But here’s an excerpt from a previous blog.

20190727_JessBen

2 thoughts on “Deserts and Camels

  1. thanks for the photo, much appreciated, cant think what the dombyra sounded like, knowing how musical you are!! Keep enjoying and keep safe. Love Mum xxx

    Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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  2. Fantastic blog. Really enjoying the updates on your epic tour. Brilliant photos too. Ride strong, ride safe xx Nade🚴🏽‍♂️🚴🏽‍♂️🚴🏽‍♂️

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