USA Week 7

Keith at the Atlantic Ocean at Jacksonville Beach, Florida — Keith meets the Atlantic Ocean at Jacksonville Beach, Florida

Links to all the Blogs and Maps

Charity Update

Many many thanks to all those that have donated.

20191218_charitydonation

A special thanks this week to Aylesham Parish Council and the £1000 they have donated each to the Slide Away , the Alzheimer’s Society and Fight for Sight Charities. Remember a donation from the Parish Council is a donation from everyone in the village. Massive thanks. This is an astonishing contribution and we cannot stress enough how humbled we are that the village have done this for us.

Hi Bike Rugby Japan,

Thank you very much – have a fabulous Christmas and New Year too! I hope you enjoy a well needed rest after your fantastic cycling efforts and you welcome Keith home soon.

I can confirm the cheque has been received and a ‘thank you’ letter sent out to Kate Razzell on the 6^th December.

Once again, thank you for all of your incredible support.

All the best,

Megan Wilson

Events Fundraising Assistant

Keith in the USA

20191220_USAmap — Keith’s trans-American cycle ride

This week Keith completes his ride across the USA and arrives at the Atlantic Ocean at Jacksonville.

Map of the trans-American Tour across the USA.

Totals in the USA: 2937 miles, 82191ft climbing and 209:49 hours riding

This weeks ride in the USA.

This week: 439 miles, 8829ft climbing and 30:58 hours riding

USA Day 40 Sunday December 15th

20191215_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 40 – December 15th

Fly-through Map of USA Day 40.

I’m out the door at 7. I’ve got good cycle paths, flat and clean with better weather that’s overcast but warmer. However it’s still a chilly head-wind.

Looking back at the Pensacola Bay Bridge

Pensacola bridge is a nightmare; I have a closed cycle lane and no hard shoulder. Once again I have to battle with the traffic over the long bridge. It’s nerve racking to say the least.

I make the most of the good roads and soon I’m 45 miles in. I pull over onto a gorgeous white beach which is a great spot to have lunch. The winds still whistling off the sea.

Fifteen miles later and I’m not feeling good. I’m tired of pushing against the wind and my stomach doesn’t feel great. I used tap water in my bottles today and maybe that’s why.

I take a Gas station stop to pick up fresh water, ice cream and chocolate and I feel better almost straight away. But I’m still tired.

Finally I reach the lodgings and take a brief walk on the beach before the sun goes down.

I walk out for dinner and spot a Chinese restaurant. Just what I need after a week of seafood. Good food and plenty of it.

USA Day 41 Monday December 16th

20191216_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 41 – December 16th

Fly-through Map of USA Day 41.

The first 40 miles is along the coast today. It’s warm and sunny with a torrid head-wind. Today is going to be a battle. It’s a good straight but busy road with a smooth shoulder. That’s all I’m likely to be looking at for a good few hours.

I’m concentrating on keeping the bike nice and straight in these blustery conditions. Only thing I’ve noticed apart from the houses adorning the white sandy beaches, is the Bald eagles circling above.

At thirty or so miles in a dog comes from nowhere and is chasing me up the road. One loud command and it backs off. I didn’t need that against this wind. Shite the dog is back and too close for comfort; I crank up and yell again and it stops. For the next mile or two I’m convinced it will return.

Turning inland I get a bit of a respite from the wind. I pull over at a gas station and buy water and make an emergency dash for the toilet. Not as clean as anything in Japan, but fine when your in a hurry.

I make a call to book a room in Bristol as only one place in that area available. Nice young lady takes my details. Then says you need to be here by 4 or we’ll re-let the room, as she puts the phone down. Now I’ve done slightly less than 50 miles in 5 hrs, 50 miles to go in less than 4!

Still the wind is slightly better. With 15 miles to go in less than an hour the road turns in my favour again. But then 10 miles later and I turn back into the wind. 2 hrs to get there and 25 miles, not to much of a task. If I wasn’t already 75 into my day.

Either I’m stronger or the wind’s died down but the miles are ticking down nicely. I even have chance to snap the storm ravaged forest and the Apalachicola river.

As I cross the river a sign says you are now on Eastern standard time. All my effort in vain. The clocks have gone forward an hour! I’m not happy.

It’s the last couple of miles and I’m totally spent; I’ve left nothing out there today. I arrive half an hour late (local time).

I pull up at the motel counter and all’s well. I get my room for the night and there’s a small local restaurant close by. Grilled Pork chops, veg and potatoes. Not great but good.

Storm damaged trees - a tornado has been thru recently — Storm damaged trees – a tornado has been thru recently

USA Day 42 Tuesday December 17th

20191217_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 42 – December 17th

Fly-through Map USA Day 42.

I’m waiting for the sun to come up this morning,after the clock change yesterday. My plan is to ride 106 miles today so need to be on the road asap. It’s rained overnight and frain is forecast for today; heavy too. I can expect wet roads high humidity and a side wind.

It’s not long before I’m crossing the Ochlockonee river and the Apalachicola forest. This whole area is pretty scenic. The trees lining the roads form a tunnel. Must be spectacular in the summer.

Before long before I’m entering Tallahassee; it’s not a big town, but enough to keep me aware. The bike track goes through the university and I missed the turning. No worries I work my way around. Sometimes it’s awkward when the garmin takes you down an alley especially when you have been on roads for so long.

I’ve soon cleared the town and it’s time for lunch. It’s a gas station again but I have my own food and just stock up on fluids. I’m 56 miles in and 50 to go.

The rain starts as I pull away. No worries I’m drenched in sweat due to the humidity, so T-shirt and shorts it is. The rain gets steadily heavier. I can hear the thunder but see no lightning at first. It’s teeming with rain now and flash lightning is happening every couple of minutes. I can’t remember whether I should get off the bike or whether it’s OK to carry on.

I carry on; as long as the water’s running off the road and not pooling I’m good. Fellow drivers are looking at me in awe. What to do? I pull over and stand under a tree. That’s not right either. Just push on. Only 30 miles to go.

It does ease off a little just before I reach the Motel. The lady behind the desk isn’t too happy with the mess I’m dripping onto her polished floor. She advises me that there is a dryer in the laundry room. But it’s not for me. I wash everything then set up a line in the room and turn the heating up. 👍

The forecast is cold and sunny tomorrow, we shall see 😄

USA Day 43 Wednesday December 18th

20191218_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 43 – December 18th

Fly-through Map of USA Day 43.

As promised the temperature has dropped over 20º. It was hot and humid yesterday and it’s cold and sunny today. The first couple of miles today are on back roads until I rejoin the H-90. It’s tarmac but with a covering of sand. It looks very nice but I need to be aware of deep sand and it’s grinding my gears up.

I’m soon back on the tree lined 90. It’s very cold (below 3º) and the wind is over my left shoulder most of the time. It’s not perfect but better than the last few days.

Soon I’m passing through the Suwannee State Park and over the dark green river. It’s lined by Cyprus trees covered in Spanish moss.

I have no hard shoulder for long stretches today but the drivers are very courteous and keep well wide of me.

bright and sunny on the road in Florida — Bright and sunny on the road in Florida

The ride through Lake City wasn’t very exiting and I barely got a glimpse of the lake. I pull up after the town and eat my lunch; just fruit and homemade malt loaf from my sister Debbie. I’m slightly into the wind now, but I’m looking forward to the last 20 miles;
an old railway line converted into the “Baldwin Bike Trail”. Pushing on to the 90 mile mark and I’m very hungry.

Keith at the Baldwin Rail Trailhead, Florida

As I expected and hoped for, the trail has benches, water fountains and toilets at it’s start. I sit down and eat what food I have left. A local cyclist pulls up and asks a few questions. He’s embarrassed because he only rides 40 or so miles a week. I tell him he’s cool, even my own friends think what I’m doing is crazy. Little and often mate and off he goes.

The trail is very scenic but unfortunately slightly uphill and against the wind. Not what I needed to finish the day. I pull into the motel knowing I have less than 25 miles to do tomorrow.👍

However the Motel is shite; no microwave or coffee machine and I could have a lay in tomorrow if I so desired. A bar and restaurant attached so it’s not so sad. But the cider was rank! Fortunately the brown ale is much better especially in a pitcher😁

I washed my bike in the bath tonight as I may not get a better chance. Also my pannier leaked in the heavy rain yesterday so my travelling clothes are damp ☹️

We will see what tomorrow brings as it’s my last day on the bike.

Busy couple of days ahead.

USA Day 44 Thursday December 19th

20191219_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 44 – December 19th

Fly-through Map of Day 44.

I have a late start today. It’s 23 miles to the coast and then a dozen back to my hotel nearer the Amtrak station. I’m not allowed to book in before 15:00.

It’s bright and chilly again this morning with headwinds. It won’t worry me today. I don’t get out of traffic all morning. It’s like riding across London. But no worries I have plenty of time.

I finally reach the beach which has lovely white sands but nowhere for a decent photo opportunity. The pier is closed and the only access to the beach is over the wooden bridges that span the dunes. I finally give up and settle for the bridge. There is not a soul on the beach within range so I have to set the self timer on the camera.

Keith meets the Atlantic Ocean at Jacksonville Beach, Florida — Keith at the Atlantic Ocean at Jacksonville Beach, Florida

I eat my last slice of home-made malt loaf (Thanks Debbie) and banana. Now it’s time for a beer; it’s almost midday and I’ve already spotted a bar. As I roll in a dog in the beer garden barks angrily. I’ll need more than that to put me off a beer today.

I grab a beer from the bar and approach the garden and as I enter the pitbull goes quiet thankfully. It’s owners ask if I’m from England and the story unfolds. It’s lovely in the sunshine and I’m enjoying the beer. It tastes very good today.

I leave the bar and cycle to my hotel with the wind on my back. Unfortunately it’s the wrong hotel. A sister hotel to the one I’ve booked. Mine’s another 2 miles away. Turns out fine as this is the place I booked and it’s very close to REI, the outdoor store where I can pick up a cardboard box for my bike.

I pick the box up and pack the bike. It’s getting late, 20:00. So it’s the BBQ pit just down the road. Excellent food and service.

All the packing is nearly done. The train to Orlando is at 8:30 tomorrow.

I can’t believe the cycling’s all done (for this year)!

The Atlantic Ocean at Jacksonville Beach, Florida, USA

USA Day 45 Friday December 20th

[Keith caught an early train down to Orlando and got himself packed and ready for his flight tomorrow. Spends the evening relaxing, including, I think, an operatic performance of Hamlet in the park!: Ed]

USA Day 46 Saturday December 21st

[Flight home! Next weeks blog will wrap the whole trip up and we’ll welcome home Keith and give a summary of the whole tour from those who started six months ago in Calais (Cathal and Carl), to the long ride across Asia where they first tried cycle-touring (or bike-packing as some like to call it these days). Then when Rylan joins for the downhill section to Shanghai. After that we’ll recall the rides around Japan and the Rugby before the solo run across the USA: Ed]

All done. Arrival at the Atlantic Ocean.

USA Week 6

Links to all the Blogs and Maps

Table of links to all Blogs and Maps.

Charity Update

Many many thanks to all those that have donated.

20191212_CharityDonation

A special thanks this week to Aylesham Parish Council and the £1000 they have donated each to the Slide Away and Fight for Sight Charities. Remember a donation from the Parish Council is a donation from everyone in the village. Massive thanks. [We are still awaiting confirmation from the Alzheimer’s Society that they too have been donated a £1000: Ed]. This is an astonishing contribution and we cannot stress enough how humbled we are that the village have done this for us.

Dear all at Bike Rugby Japan

Just to let you know that Slide Away has received a letter from Kate Razzell enclosing a cheque for £1000 from Aylesham Parish Council for and on behalf of Keith, Dale and Linford. I will be wrilting to Kate to acknowledge and thank the Parish Council for their kind and generous donation.

Kind regards.

Denise

Hi Bike Rugby Japan,

Fantastic news about Keith! He is doing amazing and what an achievement.

I can confirm we have received the cheque for £1,000 from your Parish Council. I have also sent them a thank you letter on behalf of Fight for Sight to thank them for their generous donation and support towards your challenge.

Molly

Keith in the USA

This week Keith has headed towards New Orleans, and then beyond.

Map of Progress so far in the USA.

Totals in the USA: 2498 miles, 73362ft climbing and 178:51 hours riding

This weeks ride in the USA.

This week: 532 miles, 7966 climbing and 38:03 hours riding

USA Day 33 Sunday December 8th

20191208_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 33 – December 8th

Fly-through Map USA Day 33.

I leave the hotel at 07:00. The weather’s cold and foggy and have my lights on as a precaution. I can only see a hundred yards or so down the road but the hard shoulder is smooth clean and wide. It’s a slight head-wind as well. There’s nothing to look at so I bury my head and push on along the rolling road.

After 4 hours it’s time to eat. I have fried chicken from last night and chocolate brownies. I’m parked at a farmer’s gate. the sun has broken through intermittently but it’s still cold.
I take my gloves and jacket off and carry on with 30 miles to go.

The sun comes out as I join the Interstate 11. It’s the first time I’ve ridden the interstate. It’s busy and noisy; not ideal. The good thing is it pushes you to go faster and it’s not long before I’m at the motel.

The manager is an Indian guy who’s convinced I’m a professional traveller.

It turns out he’s only been in the USA 6 months himself. He’s originally from Hyderbad central southern India. I knew more about travel in India than he did!

I had my first taste of catfish tonight though I’m not a great fish eater. But it looked better than the Tex Mex. In fact it was really good, in a tasty beer and soda batter.

USA Day 34 Monday December 9th

20191209_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 34 – December 9th

Fly-through Map USA Day 34.

What a difference a day makes; it’s 18º this morning, humid and cloudy. No gloves and no jacket. However I need to push on this morning as a slight headwind forecast to get stronger as the day unfolds. It’s the same problem as yesterday in that the Highway 90 runs into Interstate 10; a very busy road, although the shoulder is very good.

All going well until I come to the “Calcasieu bridge” it looks like some sort of Thunderbirds take off ramp. But what really concerns me is the lack of hard shoulder. [this is the 1951 Louisiana World War 2 Memorial bridge over the Cacasieu River and Lake Charles: Ed]

I pull over and check my maps. A possible detour is a long way. I take on some food and drink and decide to go for it. I put on my rear flashing lights and don my flashing jacket. It’s the first time I’ve worn it and it needs to earn it’s place in my pannier.

Suitably dressed I go for it. Wow what a bridge; it’s a long ramp up to the top with a great view of the lake. But I’m concentrating on riding a straight line and keeping in close. Not a peep from any driver, they all do their best to give me space. So I’m relieved to get off the bridge pull over and take my sweaty jacket off.

I take Highway 90 for the rest of the day. It’s mostly quite but the intermittent shoulder isn’t good. 20 to go and I’m making good time when something sticks and is going around with the back wheel. The tyre is still inflated so I pull over to investigate. I have a huge nail in the tyre, but it hasn’t gone down. A puncture is better than anything I was thinking of and I’m soon back on the road.

I’m booked into motel but the receptionist is a nightmare; no printer,and can’t find my zip code or understand my ID (drivers license). Just give me my key please. It rained for the final 15 minutes and I need to get dry.

Subway for dinner. Not good enough.

USA Day 35 Tuesday December 10th

20191210_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 35 – December 10th

Fly-through Map USA Day 35.

I have plenty of time this morning with a slight wind in my face but improving all day and a strong tail-wind to finish with.

I had lots of discussions last night as to which route I should take; either the I-10 fast road but good hard shoulder, or H-90 which frequently has no shoulder but it’s not so busy. Lots of advice on the internet

I decide to take the I-10 (Debbie 😞). It’s not raining yet but it has been and will do again soon.

I’ve only been on the road 15 minutes and the Police pull me over. (Well it’s happened in all previous countries for one reason or another). I’m not allowed on the Interstate. So what am I to do? He suggests I get off at the next junction and clear off out of his district down the H-90. That has no hard shoulder I say. He replies, it takes you away from me.

Stood there, six foot five, fit, armed and in his scout leader uniform!

So the 90 it is. Through Lafayette first and the rush hour traffic; chaos. Once through the road’s busy but with no shoulder. I give it 15 minutes and it doesn’t improve. So I take a back route. It’s much quieter but the roads aren’t great. It turns out I’m on the Spanish trail.

It’s raining hard and I’m soaked to the skin and only one hour into the ride. It just keeps on raining, but with the wind behind. I keep my head down and push on. I’ve given up trying to avoid puddles; it’s a waste of time. Twice my front wheel skids out on the white line. That wakes me up, but I don’t crash. Sometimes it rains and then it rains harder.

A real horrid day. Torrential now. I pull over to a fast food joint. Need to eat, warm up and use the WiFi.

**Bald Eagle** (*Haliaeetus leucocephalus*)

I book a motel 25 miles down the road. Get back on the bike and realise I’m proper cold now. Why did I book it so far away? Last ten miles or so I’m battling 30>40 Mph gusting winds.

Keeping myself to the right hand-side, I press on past the air museum. Birds of prey are surfing on the winds above. Dozens of them. As they swoop down low I have a great view of my first “Bald Eagle”. Excellent.

Approaching another bridge - at least a closed lane is available — Approaching another bridge – at least a closed lane is available

As Morgan City appears there’s a large bridge to cross. I hope it’s not like yesterdays. I find a lane closed; perfect! I dodge between the cones and ride the empty lane. It’s perfectly safe. On the descent the other side they’ve left a machine blocking my access.

I hope the keys are in it. No problem, just take panniers of one side and I squeeze through.

The water bottle just had to fall down this hole!

As I’m approaching the elevated take off lane for my hotel my bottle cage drops off, probably due to the poor road surfaces today. The yellow bottle bounces in front of me and disappears down a drain onto the grass 10 metres below. Looking down I console myself that it’s lost.

I get into the motel dripping. I shower and dry my gear.

Zip Nolan was an American Highway Patrolman who for some inexplicable reason fought crime in the middle of Britain!

Running for years in The Lion, the strip had the gimmick of putting all the clues the reader needed to solve the crime and then asking the reader if they could solve the mystery before turning the page and finding the answer along with Zip.

USA Day 36 Wednesday December 11th

20191211_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 36 – December 11th

Fly-through Map of USA Day 36.

I woke up late this morning 6:40. No worries as I’ll still be out the door by 7:30. I breakfast in the motel; a nice spread. I meet Nick who is cycling the East to West Coast route. He’s been riding a couple of weeks and only gotten this far. He asks me about my trip and I give him the run down. An average of 75 miles a day surprises him, especially as I’m carrying 110lb, 50Kg (bike & gear) plus food and water. He wishes me the best and says enjoy the wind on your back today. That’s not how I read the weather this morning!

I get away at 8, but have to pull over after 15 minutes. I don my rain jacket and gloves. It’s strong, cold head-winds, grey sky. Definitely not a tail-wind. I keep my head down and pedal on, it’s going to be a very long day I suspect.

The morning is pretty uneventful. The roads are terrible; the worst since leaving Ukraine – uneven and littered with debris. I take lunch in a petrol station; the hot coffee is good but no fruit for sale in gas stations. Must have been spoilt across Asia.

40 miles to go and I spot my first alligator. No worries it’s flat on the road but it does make me think about where I take a leak though.

With 18 miles to go I turn right with the wind on my shoulder. It’s much nicer but I know the last six is back into the wind.

The approach into New Orleans is horrid with busy roads and gusting headwinds.

crossing the Mississippi River into New Orleans

As I’m approaching The Huey P Long Bridge I notice no hard shoulder. Trying to cycle close to the wall in a straight line isn’t easy with large vehicles passing close and a strong gusting wind. It’s not a short bridge either. Glad to have survived I ride the last couple of miles gingerly through the traffic.

I’m at Ron’s Gumbo shop for dinner. Excellent Gumbo and a fried alligator starter!

USA Day 37 Thursday December 12th

I have a rest day today to look around New Orleans.

I’ve arranged an Air Boat tour for 9am; they contacted me yesterday and rearranged for 11. Not happy, that’s my day basically done.

I take an Uber cab downtown for the pick-up. Whilst waiting I meet a couple from Minnesota also on the trip. The bus is twenty minutes late so I email them. Obviously the bus turns up straight away. As I’m boarding the bus the driver gets a call asking why he hasn’t picked us up yet. Never mind. It’s half an hour drive back down Highway 90. The road I came into town on yesterday. It’s still very bumpy in the bus.

A swamp tour into the bayou from New Orleans

On arrival it’s the ‘All American’ welcome, what’s your name where do you come from. I’m allocated to boat seven. Our driver arrives and runs through the safety briefing. The weather’s awful, grey and wet. The boat speeds out through the bigger channels then slows as it enters the smaller channels. The driver points out Osprey, Bald Eagles, Egrets and Purple Herons. Snaking us through the smallest of gaps he gets us into an alligator pond. A Nutria dives for cover. Seems they are a pest here as well as Europe. The guide gives us a briefing about the alligators habits, some are very disappointed that they will not see one (cold weather). The boat won’t start now. He messes with it for a bit to no avail.

It raining hard now as we wait to be rescued by the back-up crew, if they can find us. An hour later rescue arrives. We transfer onto a smaller boat and ready ourselves for the ride home. Everyone is shivering from the cold and I am really feeling it in my shorts.

This boat’s super fast and on the way back we’re flat out. You can’t look ahead as the rain stings your eyes and face, so we’re all looking into the bottom of the boat. We soon arrive at the dock. I use the toilet and expecting hot coffee or something. Nothing on offer and I’m still shivering. Others are waiting on the bus for us. As I leave the shop I’m informed that people are getting their money back. Good for me, join the queue and they pay me out. Still cold though.

Luckily I’m first off the bus on arrival in the New Orleans French quarter. Straight into a bar and order beer and a PO-boy. this is a local take on a french stick sandwich. Very nice with spicy sausage.

I spend the rest of the evening, after warming up, visiting music bars with dueling piano, jazz, creole, sixties and modern music bellowing out along the street.

USA Day 38 Friday December 13th

20191213_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 38 – December 13th

Fly-through Map of USA Day 38.

I’m woken up by noisy neighbours at 5:30 and then went to breakfast at 6. I managed to smuggle a couple of bananas out along with three muffins. That will help on the ride today.

I’m not looking forward to the ride out of New Orleans today. It’s cold, wet, busy and foggy. Also I make two wrong turns in the first mile so it could be a long day. I’m suffering from my over indulgence of the local hospitality last night as well.

Finally I pick up a nice cycle trail through the city. So I stick with it and use my GPS as a rough guide. Within a couple of hours I’m clear of the city and riding across the swampy grasslands on a concrete road. I’m not keen on the concrete sections that bump every 5 metres. It rattles both me and the bike.

After 40 miles I cross the old Pearl river on a rickety bridge. I stop in the middle to photograph a couple of Brown Pelicans, the first I’ve seen. It’s still very foggy and wet.

Fog across the Pearl River into Mississippi

At 66 miles I’m crossing the Bay Louis Bridge and it’s couple of miles long with a good cycle path. The view is terrible however due to fog.

Bald Eagle feeding on the beach — Bald Eagle feeding on beach

When I hit the beach I ride on the boardwalk where I can. My lights have run out and it’s teeming with rain now. I stop to photograph a Bald eagle that’s devouring a fish on the beach.

A long straight run down the beach to finish in the pouring rain, but I’m not cold and happy with my 90 miles today.☺

USA Day 39 Saturday December 14th

20191214_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 39 – December 14th

Fly-through Map of USA Day 39.

Breakfast was fine in this tatty motel but I’m glad to be on my way.

The weather’s better: dry, light winds and foggy and it’s a nice easy flat start with a small tail-wind. As I leave town I’m followed by a group of young Americans. They are asking questions and pushing the pace. It’s fine by me and I’m enjoying the company and challenge. It doesn’t last long however and after a couple of miles they pull up. I’m warm now although the wind is chilly.

I’ve a ferry to catch today from Dauphin island to Fort Morgan. Ferries leave at 12:30 and 14:00. To catch the 12:30 I’d have to cover the 70 miles in 5 hours. Not likely but possible.

So I crack on and see what happens. The roads are good and it’s only light traffic but the fog is pretty thick in places so I see very little all morning.

The Biloxi Bay bridge is a two mile long low level concrete causeway with a good separate bike lane. Unfortunately the views are ruined by sea mist and fog.

As I approach Dauphin island the causeway is barely visible as it’s only metres above the sea. It’s 5 mile distance makes it disappear and the wind’s always going to be a problem.

Keeping one eye on my watch I press on and arrive at the port with barely a couple of minutes to spare.

The Dauphin Island to Fort Morgan ferry, Alabama

The cloud breaks, sun comes out and it’s much nicer. The last 25 miles is pleasant; clear sky’s and a tailwind. Huge houses all built on stilts line the coast.

A walk on the beach tonight is a rare event in the last month or so.

Sunset on the beach, Gulf Shores, Alabama

Overland To India

Ben and Jess were cycling a more southern route across Asia to India. They’ve arrived in India, but have decided to split up. It looks permanent as the blog, once ‘Jess & Ben’, is now only ‘Jess’.

You can catch up with Jess here. An excerpt is below.

We’ll follow Jess for now and wish Ben all the best with whatever he is doing. Meanwhile I’ll see if we can re-connect with him in some way.

20191214_Jess

USA Week 5

Inside the fancy B&B in Brenham, Texas — I’ve written this little song about cycling.

Links to all the Blogs and Maps

Table of links to all Blogs and Maps.

Charity Update

Many many thanks to all those that have donated.

A special thanks this week to Aylesham Parish Council and the £1000 they have donated to the Slide Away Charity. Remember a donation from the Parish Council is a donation from everyone in the village. Massive thanks. [We are still awaiting confirmation from Fight for Sight and the Alzheimer’s Society that they too have been donated a £1000 each: Ed]. This is an astonishing contribution and we cannot stress enough how humbled we are that the village have done this for us.

Keith in the USA

This week Keith has mostly hung out in Austin, Texas visiting our family there.

Thanks to Debs for her contributions to this weeks blog.

Eventually he got off his arse and headed out ….

Map of Progress so far in the USA.

Totals in the USA: 1965 miles, 65396ft climbing and 140:48 hours riding

This weeks ride in the USA.

This week: 199 miles, 5876ft climbing and 13:42 hours riding

USA Day 25 Saturday November 30th

So excited today as Keith is scheduled to arrive mid afternoon, we have been looking forward to this day for 3 weeks now,I have been so tempted to jump in the car and rescue him from the straight, boring long roads of West Texas. I hated the thought of him out there alone on Thanksgiving but Keith was determined to ride into town.

Charlee had given me a small list of his favorite things for breakfast and snacks etc, so I got busy in the kitchen a few days before, Soren malt loaf is not available in Texas so after searching for a few days I managed to bake him several loaves.

I rushed to make a welcome sign to place outside and just as I finished it, Keith was riding down the hill. So good to see him finally and eager to hear his stories from the past few months. He looks amazing and is ready for a cold drink, hot shower and lunch.

[Debbie]

USA Day 26 Sunday December 1st

We took a quick trip out to Windy Point on Lake Travis before heading back to prepare for Sunday dinner, it was a fun afternoon with everyone here enjoying a roast dinner.

Keith and I spent the evening at a nearby Irish bar drinking cider and listening to the tales of Bike Rugby Japan.

[Debbie]

USA Day 27 Monday December 2nd

We spent the morning at REI looking for a tent and then met up with Genevieve and Kristian for lunch at Hop Doddy’s. We picked up Geraint from school, he had seen Keith from his classroom and was very excited to see him again. Then we spent a few hours overseeing homework and playing at the park. William cooked a curry for dinner, a nice change for Keith as he had not eaten one in months.

[Debbie]

USA Day 28 Tuesday December 3rd

20191203_ridewithgpsmap

Keith spent the morning cleaning up his bike and getting his gear sorted. Alex met up with him at Mellow Johnny’s bike shop and cafe, as it’s just a short ride from his office.

Pizza for dinner with the crew, plus Ryan a keen cyclist who wanted to hear more of Keith’s stories.

[Debbie]

WhatsApp Image 2019-12-06 at 22.55.29 — Keith contemplates a new tea mug

USA Day 29 Wednesday December 4th

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Alex, Victoria and Keith met up downtown for lunch. Keith then explored the capitol and the downtown hike and bike trail. Kristian and Geraint met at a new place not far from my work so we all got together and decided to have BBQ for dinner.

[Debbie]

USA Day 30 Thursday December 5th

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Keith and I met for lunch and then he had a afternoon exploring Central Austin.

He put the word out that he was at the Draft House so time for a quick drink before heading home for dinner. William had cooked home-made pasta and ciabatta bread.

[Debbie]

USA Day 31 Friday December 6th

20191206_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 31 – December 6th

Fly-through Map USA Day 31.

Time to get back on the road, I think I packed him another 100 lbs of food to take, just kidding. After cooking him some eggs and bacon, he packed up the car as I had insisted on driving him out of Austin; Big Sister won this battle.

Big sad lump in my throat seeing him ride off up the hill, I was very tempted to follow him.

I have so enjoyed following the Bike Rugby Japan tour and feel so incredibly proud of them. So many memories and stories to share.

We only got to August on the photos as each one has a story.

I am grateful for the many people who showed them kindness on their journey, a bottle of water, or a piece of fruit, even offering them food and a place to stay.

Thank you Keith for stopping by, we really enjoyed your visit.

We will miss you.

Look forward to the updates.

[Debbie]

Keith hits the road again and is heading east from Austin, Texas

My wheels arrived late last night (23:00). I went to bed reading up on the front hub adapter and reminding myself what I need to do in the morning.

I’m up at 6 going over the details of the new wheels before I shower and breakfast. Then it’s into Williams garage. I remove the tyre, brake disc and cassette from my old rear wheel, fit a new tyre disc and cassette to new wheel and partially inflate. I then remove the brake disc from the old front wheel, assemble the hub adapter and disc on the new wheel and fit an old rear tyre and partially inflate. I fit wheels to the bike, fully inflate the tyre and take for a spin around the estate. All appears well.

Debbie makes me a full english breakfast and packs enough food for me to get to the east coast (12 Days)! We’ve (Debbie) decided to run me to the outskirts of town to avoid the rush hour trafic. I finally get off at 9 o’clock. We drive through traffic to Manor on the 290 but roadworks going on so we carry on to Elgin. Debbie insists it’s the far side of Elgin. Then there is no hard shoulder. I’m thinking she’s not going to let me out till Jacksonville!

Finally we pull over and I put the wheels and panniers back on the bike. Set my Garmin up and say my goodbyes. Never easy as we don’t see each other often enough so it’s always an emotional time. I sling my leg over and promise to stay in touch.

The bike feels real good today with the new wheels and front pannier racks that are fitted much better than previous attempts. It’s a nice wide smooth hard shoulder, I have a tailwind and I’m making good time. Long rolling hills in front of me.

I pull over after 30 miles to eat some of the lunch that Debbie’s prepared for me.

Only 20 miles to go to Brenham so I contemplate pushing on to Hempstead, a place Deb and William have mentioned. It’s only after I’ve passed Brenham that I realise Hempstead is not on my route. Luckily I’m on the outskirts so only have to backtrack a mile or so.

Really happy with the bike and my body today. Been resting for a week and I’m sure my legs thought it was all over. They didn’t ache for long.

USA Day 32 Saturday December 7th

20191207_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 32 – December 7th

Fly-through Mapy USA Day 32.

I’m up early and getting stuck into breakfast. This upmarket B&B has a kitchen full of food that I’ve been invited to help myself to; and that included the alcohol last night!

It’s a bright frosty morning but I’m out at seven. Not long before I’m out of town and on the long undulating roads. After half an hour I begin to get a screech from the bike. I can see nothing and can’t determine whether it’s from the crank or rear dérailleur. I pull over and lubricate everything and accidentally brush my hand over a hairy caterpillar. Now my hands and face are itching where I rubbed and touched it.

This is the Caterpillar that made my hand itch.

Not much improvement. I pull over again and dismantle the jockey wheels in the rear dérailleur and clean. I have all the parts lined up on a sleeper when a lorry goes past and blows everything into the long grass. After ten minutes I’m one bolt and one washer short. After another fifteen minutes, same story. I rebuild the dérailleur using the not ideal spares I’m carrying. The squawking is no better. I change the washer on the jockey wheel but it’s no better.

I’ve been riding four hours and covered less than 30 miles. SHIT.

I decide to inspect the whole rear mechanism, piece by piece. I remove all my panniers and turn the bike upside down. The rear cassette will not reverse and throws slack chain when I stop pedalling. Is it the new hub? It seems fine when I remove the wheel. The rear dérailleur and jockey wheels fine.

By now I’m covered in oil and grease from my many attempts at a repair. HOORAY I see the problem a tiny grub screw that holds the hanger on has backed itself out. I screw it back in 3mm with an allen key, rebuild the rest of the bike, load panniers and I’m good to go.

Sweet, no noises and I’m happy. 60 miles to go and it’s nearly midday. Not good, we calculate our time on the road at 10 miles an hour at that rate I’ll be riding in the dark for the last hour. I have the lights, but it’s not ideal.

I crack on, the road’s good and the wind is coming across my shoulder. I’m pushing 17mph for the next couple of hours. I take a short break to fuel up in “Conroe” and push into the weak headwind. Lake Conroe is on my left then it’s through the Sam Houston forest, very picturesque, for the last hour.

The "Children at Play" Statues at Conroe, Texas — The “Children at Play” Statues at Conroe, Texas

What I thought was going to be a horrid day turned out not too bad. I just need to clean the lubrication off the bike tonight.

Overland To India

You can catch up with Jess here. An excerpt is below.

We’ll follow Jess for now and wish Ben all the best with whatever he is doing. Meanwhile I’ll see if we can re-connect with him in some way.

20191207_Jess

USA Week 4

Links to all the Blogs and Maps

Table of links to all Blogs and Maps.

Charity Update

Many many thanks to all those that have donated.

Keith in the USA

This week Keith rides through Alien country (Roswell, New Mexico) to Austin, Texas to visit his sister Debbie.

Map of Progress so far in the USA.

Totals in the USA: 1766 miles, 59520ft climbing and 127:06 hours riding

This weeks ride in the USA.

This week: 561 miles, 13004ft climbing and 40:35 hours riding

USA Day 19 Sunday November 24th

20191124_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 19 – November 24th

Fly-through Map of USA Day 19.

Expect the unexpected today. I’m heading to Roswell site of Aliens landing in 1947?

It’s a beautiful morning again today. Clear blue skies. Straight road ahead of me with a gentle gradient for the first 10 miles. Hills to the north look great as the low sun casts shadows across them.

I’m riding in historic Lincoln County this morning, realm of Billy the Kid. As the climb intensifies I notice an animal in front stood on its hind legs. On closer inspection its a Grey squirrel not very exciting. This steep section is up through woodland and very scenic with large birds of prey circling overhead. Lots of road kill on this road more than I’ve seen all of this journey. There’s an owl, Porcupine, Skunks and lots of small birds.

At just over the hour and the climbing’s done. It’s flat now with a cold tail-wind, so it’s head down and crack on. All is going well until a bit of a climb at 55 miles. Nothing massive, just a change of mindset and push on. As I brow the hill I pull over and check my tyres. Both a little flat. Is it the cold air I wonder. Half hour later I’m changing the inner-tube in the rear wheel. That’s sorted but the front has a slow puncture as well. I fill it full of air and ride; only 25 to go.

Not sure why the aliens picked Roswell as it’s a pretty dull place, especially on a Sunday afternoon. Not a shop within 2 miles that sells alcohol and I’m not that fussed about going that far on foot.

I stick to the hotel and fix the punctures. Another exciting evening.

PB244119 — North American porcupine (Erethizon dorsatum): spatchcocked and frozen and ready.

USA Day 20 Monday November 25th

20191125_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 20 – November 25th

Fly-through Map of USA Day 20.

A good breakfast in the hotel this morning; I managed to come out with an apple, a banana and a couple of tangerines!

It’s still very cold and overcast and not a lot to look at. Vast fields on both sides, mostly cattle with the odd herd of deer.

Fresh winds make the flat roads pretty hard work. Reminding me of Holland, no escaping headwinds. The occasional bird of prey above and darting rabbits on the verges. It’s a long straight boring road. Dale and Linney would be good riding three abreast, chatting.

First time I’ve really missed them. After 40 miles I start the only climb of the day. Nothing hard just a long straight climb of fifteen miles or so. After making the top I’m looking forward to the 30 mile descent. I take a sharp right then left, no left? Once again the Garmin has taken me onto private land. The sign on the gate is pretty off-putting.

There is nothing on this property worth dying for
KEEP OUT

Ok I’ll find another route. No problem, straight head against the increased wind for 10 miles then turn left for 28. The ten against the wind is hard, I can’t wait to turn left and have the wind on my back. I decide to take a break at the junction; ham, cheese and fruit. I threw the horrid bread away.

A large petroleum lorry pulls into the layby and the driver jumps out, shakes my hand and gives me a bottle of water. He’s just interested in where I had been and going. He gives me plenty of advice as to where to eat and pray. Turns out he was very religious and worried about me. No worries he meant no harm, nice chap.

I turn left and sail home with the wind on my back and flat roads. Only an extra 3 miles.

Far better than getting shot.

West Texas - long straight roads — New Mexico – long straight roads

West Texas - prairie scrubland — New Mexico – prairie scrubland

USA Day 21 Tuesday November 26th

20191126_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 21 – November 26th

Fly-through Map of USA Day 21.

I have a quick cereal breakfast in the room this morning and am on the road at 7. I’m expecting high winds this afternoon so I need to get some miles in early.

Not a lot to look at again this morning and that’s the theme for the next couple of days. Vast flat farmlands as far as the eye can see.

A high wind’s coming over my right shoulder threatening to blow me into the road. Luckily the hard shoulder is flat and wide. After 20 miles I pass through Hobbs a pretty typical nondescript town. Turning east the wind is now directly behind me and I soon sweep over the Texas state line. Oil heads and cotton fields greet me. The road stretches out straight in front with rolling hills. I pull over after 60 miles, with a puncture in the front and time to eat. The winds really picked up now but it’s still right behind me. I’ve also broken my front pannier rack, nothing a Ty-wrap won’t hold for now.

30+ miles to go. The wind is now growing into a storm and red dust is everywhere and tumble-weed is racing me down the road. Absolutely smashing it. Whilst fixing the bike earlier I inadvertently turned off my garmin. So my stats are only from the break.

I’m averaging 24mph for 20 miles I notice. I think I can improve on that I say to myself. I put the hammer down and complete the ride in 75 minutes, 31.2 miles, average speed a great 25.3mph. Not bad for a 50kg bike and a descent of 45metres.

I consider making the most of the wind and riding another 30+ miles to GAIL. After checking my maps, turns out there are no hotels.

So I take the early day and find a motel and set about going over my bike. Everything checked and tightened, innertubes repaired and a spot of lubrication. Only the rack that I’m not 100% with. Handful of Ty-wraps wouldn’t go a miss.

I walk down to the shop to get food for tomorrow. The locals stare at me in my shorts and the fact I’m walking. There’s a petrol station near the shop so I pop in but they have no Ty-wraps. “Bingo” next door is an electrical firm. I knock on the door and enter. There’s a large woman sat behind her desk keen to help. I explain my situation, so she phones her husband, no answer. So she phones her son, he directs her over the phone into the stores with me following close behind. I could be at home. I spot what I need and ask for ten, she hands me a whole bunch. We sit and chat in her office over a cup of tea and a biscuit or two, with me explaining what I’ve done and seen.

Excellent people.

PB264142 — A pumpjack (nodding donkey) for pumping oil where the pressure underground is not enough to lift it to the surface

USA Day 22 Wednesday November 27th

20191127_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 22 – November 27th

Fly-through Map of USA Day 22.

It’s an early start this morning as I’m expecting the worst. 105 miles, very cold and headwinds. As expected it’s a bitterly cold headwind that’s burning my face. Nothing to look at except cotton fields and oil wells, undulating ground and straight roads. Just me and my mind today. My speed’s not too bad but everything seems to be a struggle going into the wind. It’s going to be like 8 hrs of solitary confinement. Just keep pressing on. Rain clouds are gathering to my right, maybe it can get grimmer.

After 35 miles I pull over to eat, urinate and put some air in my rear wheel. Nowhere to hid from the wind just standing on the side of the road. A large pick-up comes past me and does a u-turn. A gentlemen gets out and starts questioning me on my mentality and my plans. Lovely chap offers me a lift, I refuse explaining that I’m doing fine, on schedule and loaded with food. He says I’m mad and asks how difficult is it to take the panniers off. I take one off to show him and he loads it in the back of his truck. Looks like I’m getting a lift.

Ed starts telling me about his magnesium mine in “Snyder”. They extract it by boring holes and pumping water in and washing the magnesium out. He has a 1900 acre site! Then he’s describing the pig farm his family had in the eighties. At 83 years old he loves charging around his estate on his quad bike on two wheels. The bloke’s a goldmine of information. After 30 mile he pulls over, that’s as far as we go. He helps me put the bike back together, shakes my hand and says I’ve got to go shopping 20 guests to feed at Thanksgiving tomorrow.

So with a smile on my face I push on into the wind for the last 40 mile. It finally rains, but only for the last couple of mile. I book into the motel and spread my gear out to dry. I venture down to Walmart in my shorts and the rain. Yes I’m an alien!

Cotton fields and wind-turbines in West Texas

USA Day 23 Thursday November 28th

20191128_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 23 – November 28th

Fly-through Map of USA Day 23.

I had breakfast and sat waiting for it to get light enough for me to hit the road. It’s cold and raining and that’s the forecast all day. I make the break at 7:45. It’s not a big road out of town and it has a small rough hard shoulder. I have my lights on and I’m riding on the road.

I’m only just got out of the town and I’ve spotted four deer carcasses already. If the drivers are hitting them I’ll get back on the hard shoulder. Riding across a couple of small valleys this morning, up and down through the woods. I disturb a couple of feral pigs that run along with me for a second or two. A welcome break from the open fields of late. The weather is not improving.

After the woods it up with the wind turbines. I know I’m heading directly into the headwind, but it’s confirmed by the angle of the turbines. This is going to be another testing day. After 30 miles I hear a spoke go in my rear wheel but looking down it’s still running pretty true. So I push on. 50 miles in it’s time for lunch. I need to eat for my energy.

There is nowhere to hide from the wind or rain. Pulling over I just sit on the bank eating my sandwiches, fruit and chocolate. Cars passing wave in acknowledgement, but they don’t stop and offer me Thanksgiving dinner. One spoke broken one very loose. I tighten it just enough to keep it in place.

The road-kill I’ve seen today is appalling, at least a dozen deer, 5 or 6 skunks, coyote’s, ring-tailed cats (raccoons probably), feral pigs and armadillos. The pigs looked like a whole family had been wiped out in a single stroke. “The Road Kill Cafe” needs to get down here.

20 miles to go and it’s freezing fog, sleet and icy winds. I need to finish ASAP.

I pull into my motel, strip of and start drying my clothes. I remove the back wheel and set about replacing spokes and truing it up. Two new spokes and 20 minutes and it’s done. I repair a puncture, have coffee and jump in a well deserved shower.

I walk out for food but it’s “Thanksgiving” and the three local restaurants are closed. At the local garage I pick up a couple of beers, Snickers and milk. Back to the motel and I microwave myself some pasta and rice. Chocolate biscuits and bananas for a sweet. Can’t be bad. That’s why we carry food!

West Texas - shitty weather — West Texas – shitty weather

Hereford cows in West Texas (I'm guessing from the white faces) — Hereford cows in West Texas [I’m guessing from the white faces: Ed]

USA Day 24 Friday November 29th

20191129_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 24 – November 29th

Fly-through Map of USA Day 24.

I’m up and waiting to go, over a hundred miles planned today and it’s grim. I have a quick breakfast in the hotel and I’m rolling at 7:15. Not light yet so I’m on the hard shoulder with my tail lights flashing. It’s raining and foggy but not too cold or windy.

I made my mind up not to look at the Garmin today but just keep riding till I arrive in Lampasas, probably in ten hours or so. Start in the dark, finish in the dark! The road’s good today with villages dotted along the route rather than towns 80 miles apart. So I’m counting down the miles using the villages, but oblivious to the time. The suns not coming up, but it has stopped raining.

The days going well, not so much wind and feeling pretty good. As I brow the climb I spot a pick up-truck parked on the shoulder. As I near the drivers struggles out and halts me. Asking where I’ve been and going. Do I want a lift. I’m fine thank you I reply. He says the weather stinks and the traffic is busy get in the van. I’m hesitant as it’s going fine today, warmer and less wind. But the guys a charm so I agree to throw my bike in the back, bags on the back seat and settle in next to him. 73 years old and the guy’s still working, repairing small motors and tools, in his shop.

After 20 miles I suggest he pulls over and I get back on the bike. Not really – he was at his journey’s end!

I unloaded the bike and his compressor from the back. Perhaps that’s why he picked me up, to unload his van. I don’t think so, far too nice and genuine. I’m only sorry I never got his name.

I struggled to get it going again, so pulled over at a picnic spot and had some lunch. I’m feeling better and I set off with only 30 miles to go. I spot my first live “Armadillo” on the grass verge, definitely in Texas now.

With twenty to do it begins to rain hard but no worries as I’m soaked anyway. I finally roll into Lampasas around 15:00. A good day all-round considering I was expecting the worst. Just need to get my kit dry for tomorrows champagne ride into Austin.

USA Day 25 Saturday November 30th

20191130_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 25 – November 30th

Fly-through Map of USA Day 25.

I was on the road at 7:30 this morning with 60 miles to my sister Debbie’s to go. The forecast last night wasn’t great; rain and headwinds. The first couple of miles is uphill but nothing serious just a climb. When I get to the top I pull over and pack away my gloves and jacket, wow it’s hot and humid today a complete change from yesterday.

It’s a nice route this morning very green with quite steep undulating straight roads. It’s still humid so I’ve had to peel off another layer. Down to my short sleeved shirt and shorts. Still overcast and damp from the overnight rain.

As I approach Austin the sun breaks through briefly and the sweat is pouring off me. This humidity is madness, but surely better than the arid heat of the desert. At least I’m aware of the liquid I’m losing. Unlike the desert when you just realise at the end of a day that you’ve drank 8 litres of water, and not had a bead of sweat or urinated all day.

On the outskirts of Austin I pick up the cycle paths and only have 15 miles to go. I text my sister to insure the beer is chilled, I’ll be with her within the hour.

It’s a nice roll in: not much traffic as it’s a holiday weekend.

As I enter the estate my sister lives on I remember Kristian saying go to the left. I could pull my phone out and check the door number but I have this vision in my head.

Excellent as I turn into where I think Debbie lives she’s stood outside with her husband William, decorating her car with a welcome sign.

Great to see her and William, also glad to be relaxing for a few days.

After a chilled beer or two I take a well earned shower. Feel so much better now. A bit to eat and down to the store to sort tomorrows dinner out. Stopping briefly on the way home for some fine local ales.

Well I finally made it. But what to do from here? Smash it to the east coast and maybe late home for Christmas or call it a day.

I can hear you all saying it’s only 1200 miles. 🙂 🙂

Debbie with Keith as he arrives in Austin, Texas

Keith at Debbie's place, Austin, Texas — Keith at Debbie’s place, Austin, Texas

The Hermit Crab

20191126_HermitCrab

“My name is Ben Viatte and I’m just like you: I’m not quite sure how I got here.

My search started 9 years ago, when I closed my eyes for the first time: I saw that I was free. So I started travelling the world in search of a new mindset. My current pilgrimage is bringing me on foot from Europe, through Northern asia, to holy India.”

When we last checked up on this Ben, Dale , Keith and Linford had bumped into him in Kyrgyzstan. Now he’s crossed through China into Pakistan. He had his issues with the police in western China too as you can read.

USA Week 3 (updated)

[This weeks blog went out in error before it was ready! Here’s the updated version: Ed]

Links to all the Blogs and Maps

Table of links to all Blogs and Maps.

Charity Update

Many many thanks to all those that have donated.

A special thanks to those that contributed at the Two Sawyers (Woolage Green), the Red Lion (Bridge) and the Fitzwalter Arms (Goodnestone) in our collection jars. It means a lot to us and we’ll see you soon & regularly for another pint.

Keith in the USA

Map of Progress so far in the USA.

Totals in the USA: 1205 miles, 46516ft climbing and 86:31 hours riding

This weeks ride in the USA.

This week: 400 miles, 12918ft climbing and 26:16 hours riding

USA Day 12 Sunday November 17th

20191117_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 12 – November 17th

Fly-through Map of USA Day 12.

I was up early as normal and had breakfast in the Mexican restaurant next door. Not sure why I bothered it was bad. Egg, tiny sausage and a slice of white toast.

I get on my way knowing it’s a 90 mile ride again today, mostly slightly uphill. I’m back onto Route 66 and after half hour I get a puncture. My first in the USA. I soon have it sorted and I’m fretting about how long my day’s going to be already.

It’s praires on both sides again and not a lot to take my mind off the miles. A couple of young jack rabbits running around is an improvement anda large bird of prey lets out a screech as it takes flight. It’s not long before I’m 50 miles in and I pull over for some lunch. The ARMCO barrier gives my somewhere to lean my bike and rest on. Not the most picturesque place.

Later the scenery changes a little with lots of stone escarpments on either side of the road. Someone has actually adorned the cliff faces with Indian mannequins. It feels like an arrow is going to cross my path at any moment.

It was a pretty dull day today, but 95 miles clocked up. I spend the evening repairing inner-tubes and going over the bike. The rear wheel isn’t looking good.

Sandstone cliffs with Native American paraphenalia

USA Day 13 Monday November 18th

20191118_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 13 – November 18th

Fly-through Map USA Day 13.

It’s very cold this morning. Clear blue skies and icy roads.

The first couple of miles is up hill which is good as that will get my temperature up. Generally it’ll be slightly downhill most of the day. It’s ok when you’re in the sunlight but the shadows are cold.

I don’t seem to be able to get going this morning. After two good days maybe I’m tired! An hour in and I get a puncture. No worries I’m in direct sunlight and it’s quite warm.
The surroundings are similar to yesterday; prairie to both sides and advertising hoardings for Indian rugs, blankets and jewellery. All the genuine article, maybe.

As I cross one of the junctions the tarmac jumps up, I hit it pretty hard, and I hear a ping from the back wheel. I carry on enough to clear the junction before I stop and take a look.

It’s not looking good; one broken spoke and one spoke nipple pulled out of the rim. This added to the temporary spoke is critical.

I take my lunch whilst going over the scenarios. Hitch a lift, phone for help or ride on and see what happens. It’s only 24 or so miles. So I set of riding as carefully as I can Counting down the miles. Strangely I get a beep of the horn and a big wave of encouragement from a passing driver. Don’t get that too often here. Thought about trying to flag him down but he’d gone.

The scenery changed a little, forest to my right and a huge cliff face to my left.

I limped into the motel feeling sorry for myself. Booked in for two nights, I’ll have a beer or two tonight and mull things over. It will be fine tomorrow. Seems the nearest bike shop is back 60 or onward 90+.

Tomorrow’s another day.

Not sure: native American adobe dwellings?

USA Day 14 Tuesday November 19th

[No cycling today as Keith ponders how to get his back wheel fixed: Ed]

A rest day today. I walk into town and visit the Uranium mine and two breweries.

I leave the hotel just before ten and pick up from the parking lot a pair of “Raybans”. They are very nice and the sun is shining.

So I’m walking down the high street in my shorts and Raybans, bright sunshine and about 5º. I look like a local.

It’s a 2 mile walk to the museum. When I arrive the guy is very friendly and interested in my previous mining history. We chatted for some time before he sat me down and showed me the introduction film. Then you’re on your own. You call the lift (man-rider) and go down to the mine itself. At points throughout the tour there are buttons to push that give you a commentary on what’s happening in the area. All by a former workers.

The set up was very familiar to me and a lot of the machinery was what I had worked with in Kent. In fact the battery lights and self rescuers were identical. It took me a couple of hours to make my way around completely on my own. A great experience.

When I returned to the surface I joined a group of older local folk interested in the mine because their fathers had worked in the uranium business. Which shut down in the US around 1986-7. The same time I came out of the coal industry.

I made my way to the Route 66 scrapyard brewery on the way back. Nothing new here apart from the fact it was situated in a scrapyard.

From there to the Elkins Brewery Company, nice couple of beers here. Sampling 5 or 6 of their brew. All very good but I need to get back and sort my bike out and make plans to move on.

Decision made, cycle 70 miles tomorrow on my broken wheel. As my brother would say ‘Faint heart never fxxxxx a pig’. I’m going for it.

At the Uranium Mining Museum, Aburquerque, NM, USA

USA Day 15 Wednesday November 20th

20191120_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 15 – November 20th

Fly-through Map of USA Day 15.

Breakfast is in the hotel. I ate every thing I could. It’s raining outside and cold. If my wheel breaks down today I’ll could be stood on the hard shoulder for some time.

I cock my leg over the saddle and set off. I’ve gotten rid of anything I can to keep the weight to a minimum. I’m not carrying food or water, well one bottle of water.

It’s 70 miles mainly down hill with a bit of a climb towards the end. I set of gingerly avoiding any changes in the tarmac, avoiding all pot holes and debris. It’s a shaky first hour or so.

I get a few toots from passing drivers appreciating my efforts in the rain. I’m starting to relax now and pushing a good average speed (17mph).

I didn’t stop for five hours and smashed the ride and arrived at my hotel at 12:30 dripping wet. I’m not allowed to my room till 15:00. No worries. I set up my laptop and picnic in the lobby. Helping myself to coffee and pinching the sweets off the reception. The soon give me my key.

It turns out there are half a dozen or so cycle shops in town and Kristian as been ringing around for me.

After warming up and eating I decide to take my bike to “FAT TIRE BIKES”. I’d spoken to them on the phone and they’re very helpful. Its another 12 miles to them but it’s dried up a touch now. It’s an excellent route mostly on cycle paths and following the “Rio Grande river” for a couple of miles.

The staff are super friendly and eager to help, especially Sharon and Clint. They have a 36 hole rim, so we agree to rebuild using my hub with new spokes and rim.

It’s ready the following morning. Excellent.

USA Day 16 Thursday November 21st

[No cycling today either: Ed]

I have a relaxing morning as the shop doesn’t open till ten. Snowing outside. I order my “UBER” cab and I’m at the shop at 10:03.

It’s all good, they’ve done a great job and I’m back on the road. I leave the shop in the rain and make my way to REI. I’m in need of some warmer gear. I pick up a snood, winter socks and a Therma-rest air pad for camping. I refuse to sleep on the floor when it’s this cold.

A big thanks to Fat Tire Cycle, Alburquerque, NM

I make my way down to the “The National Museum of Nuclear Science & History”. This place is pretty amazing but also a lot outdoors. Cold and wet. I’m not hanging around.

Down town to the “High Noon restaurant” as recommended by our friend Paul. Excellent lunch (Tacos). Time to get back to the hotel and warm up. Clean the bike and repack my bags to make room for the new airbed,

All sorted but it took me longer to clean the bath after than it did the bike. I popped down the shop to pick up stores for tomorrow and had my haircut, Burger, beer, fries.

Let's go cycling in the snow — Let’s go cycling in the snow

USA Day 17 Friday November 22nd

20191122_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 17 – November 22nd

Fly-through Map of USA Day 17.

I’m up early to check the weather; it’s cold and damp. Better than expected. Breakfast in the hotel is nothing special.

Decided I’m only riding 70 today what with the new back wheel and things. The only other option is 110, and that’s a struggle in the cold.

I set off through the town for the first ten miles (should have moved hotel yesterday). It’s a steady climb out looking up at the snow topped peaks. Just a flurry I say to myself.

The climb’s longer than I thought, pushing and pushing. The snow’s getting more intense. Cars are approaching me with 4 inches of snow on them. I’m a little apprehensive to say the least. It’s a great ride; I left the Route 66 at the 20 mile mark and I’m now on the “Salt Mission trail”. It’s a lovely twisting road up through the mountains. What with the snow I could be in the Alps. The climbing is easy and generating heat. Only my feet are cold. The descents are freezing and my eyes are watering. I can’t see the Garmin never mind the road. Dave’s glasses will have to go. I’ve got my new “Raybans” now.

After the mountains we’re on the rolling plains, but still patches of snow about and the wind is cutting across my shoulder. The small section I rode into the wind almost brought me to a stand-still. The roads have been good and clear of snow all day. The Garmin says go left, I look and it’s a track. I follow the Garmin but after a couple of miles the sign reads “Dead End”. I do you a U-turn and retrace my route. Three dogs appear as if from no-where. No worries they’re too far behind and not barking? No they’re not, they are level with me and looking to have a go. I’m flat out; They chased me all the way back to the junction. At least I wasn’t cold anymore but I had to get off and recover for a minute or two.

No worries; a quick look at the map and I’m 16 miles from home.

It’s a strange 1920’s hotel. The room is freezing and dated. The heater does work, just not been on for a couple of years. Dinner in the hotel, it shuts at 6. Meat loaf, mashed potatoes and green beans. Wonderful, just what I needed.

The bike was good today, along with the scenery.

USA Day 18 Saturday November 23rd

20191123_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 18 – November 23rd

Fly-through Map of USA Day 18.

It’s breakfast in my room. My granola and milk and coffee provided by the hotel.

I leave at 7:30. It’s been light for some time but it’s icy outside. Stunning clear blue skies and a tail-wind. All wrapped up and happy to ride. It’s long undulating roads today mainly downhill and praire on both sides.

I seem to have the road to myself this morning, only the odd car coming towards me.

I’m spotting Eagles today not sure what type. Also a kestrel sat on the fence post. Making good time and riding hard to keep warm.

I pull over for a spot of lunch. It’s surprisingly warm out of the wind.

Later I spook a herd of “Pronghorn deer” as they race across the prairie but parallel to the road. So I have a good view of them for a mile or two. Finally they turn away from me and stop. Pretty dumb animals, but look good with their white rumps. Only 25 miles to go now so I sit up a bit, no rush and the wind doesn’t cut when you go slower.

I join a slightly bigger highway with not a lot of traffic and a nice wide, smooth hard shoulder. As I descend a dip in the road I spot a cat just to my left. It’s a cat OK a bloody “Bobcat” sat in the sparse grass. I pull up take my camera out and walk back. No sign of the thing. I’m gutted, what a sight, lovely markings down it’s flank and ears erect. No idea where it went, didn’t fancy searching through the gorse looking for it. Spend the rest of the ride thinking about the Bobcat, a chance in a million. Up there with my all time best spots [pun intended I expect: Ed].

Overland To India

See how Ben and Jess are getting on as they take a more southern route across Asia to India. You can catch up with them here. An excerpt is below.

Whilst they are in India they will travel separately.

It now appears the separation is more permanent. The Blog now only refers to Jess. Whether Ben has been airbrushed out I don’t know. So we’ll follow Jess for now and wish Ben all the best with whatever he is doing.

20191125_Jess

USA Week 2

Links to all the Blogs and Maps

Charity Update

Many many thanks to all those that have donated.

And a big thanks to all those who made it to Dale’s party at the Ratling Club. It was great to see so many people. Many, many, thanks. We loved it.

Meanwhile we’ve got to keep track of ̶F̶o̶r̶r̶e̶s̶t̶ ̶G̶u̶m̶p̶ our Keith …

Keith in the USA

Map of Progress so far in the USA.

Totals in the USA: 804 miles, 33598ft climbing and 60:15 hours riding

This weeks ride in the USA.

This week: 493 miles, 21417ft climbing and 36:54 hours riding

USA Day 4 Saturday November 9th

20191108_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 4 – November 9th

Fly-through Map of USA Day 4.

No rush this morning as the outdoor shop doesn’t open till 8. I will need gas for the stove if I end up camping tonight. Good to have it onboard in any case.

I had breakfast at 6:30 then on to the grocery store (not the one I left in a storm last night!), I need plenty of water and food for a couple of nights. The ladies in the store are charming, loving my english accent and advising me where to go over the weekends. It’s Veterans Day on Monday and lots of celebrations in this gun happy state.

I check out the hotel all loaded up. I didn’t think I would be doing this again; 6 litres of water and plenty of fruit to go with the rations. About 8 miles down the road I pull up at the Outdoor Pursuits store. It’s busy with people buying all sorts of climbing equipment.

I soon locate the gas cylinders as the assistant comes over. She enquires if I’ve got the right ones and do I need anything else. So I spend the next fifteen minutes discussing wild camping, fires and the best route for me. Then she sorts out all my change for me like I’m a 12 year old (Dale’s old trick).

On the road with 40 straight miles and a tail-wind. Bliss. I had to stop a take a photo as I’m in Joshua city.

A couple of hours pass and I take a left turn and begin my climb into the next valley; I think a spoke went . It’s not too steep for 8 or so miles. The last couple ramp up a touch and its now over 30º. On the descent I spot a fellow cyclist resting on the side of the road.

Phil said he had been on the road for six days and this was his last. He was routing thru the Grand Canyon and onward to 29 Palms. He advised me that Route 66 was shut from Amboy for 40 miles although you could get through on your bike. Just a couple of bridges washed away, no worries. He also told me the petrol station was the last place for water and where he had camped the night before. I was hoping the gas station was a cafe and motel. When I arrived the owner explained he had only recently open the gas station and a small shop. I’m 65 Miles in and it’s only 12:30.

I rested here, drank plenty (no beer) and considered my options in the shade. Seems I had no option other than to camp.

I push on for another 20 before I spot the place to camp. Just came over the ridge so it’s in the shade and the sun will rise right in front of me. I get my breath back and cool down. Shopuld I fix the bike then put tent up or vice-versa? I fix the spoke first and the tent will go up in the dark. It’s not long before the rear spoke’s sorted. I get the tent up, then prepare dinner and coffee.

The gas canister fits, so I’m happy. The sachet of dried pasta is soon prepared with cheese and mushrooms with a couple of rolls and a large coffee. Splendid. Dinner in the dark and it’s only 17:30.

I’m into the tent to read and ready for an early start. It seems I’m going to be listening to trains in the distance all night 🙂

USA Day 5 Sunday November 10th

20191110_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 5 – November 10th

Fly-through Map of USA Day 5.

It was not a bad nights sleep but any kind of mattress would be good. Almost a full moon and as bright as can be at two in the morning. It doesn’t help when your trying to sleep for 10 hours on a rocky bed.

I’m active at 6 an have breakfast with coffee and all packed by 7. The rear tyre was flat?. Pumped it up and it seemed all good. I resumed on the closed Route 66 road. It’s not long before the closed road signs appear. No worries as I vear around the barriers, stay clear of the holes, and crack on. It works well for the first three bridges but the fourth bridge is completely washed away. No worries! I back track 40 metres and take the rough detour around the bridge. Thankfully the river is dry.

I didn’t see or hear anything for over an hour this morning but then I spot a fellow cyclist approaching. Steve’s a German rider who has come down from Canada and been on the road a similar time as myself. Nice chap and we exchange our local knowledge of water holes and food outlets. He’s heading down to San Diego then flying to New Zealand (warm weather). He’s very interested in my time in Japan and hopes to travel there in the summer. Even on a closed road these two cyclists move as a group of heavy motorcyclists are making too much noise.

The next point of interest was another classic 60s petrol station. I have a coffee and a sandwich 20 miles in. As I’m sat there viewing the table top maps of the local area a couple of ladies squeal about a spider under their car. I’ve got to take a look, it’s a Tarantula, pretty large and angry as I picture it. The ladies reverse out of the way being careful not to harm it. Advising me not to get to close as they bite and jump. A car pulls up at the pump, two large male locals. They look at me and ask what’s the problem? I say “take care as you get out as there’s a large spider in front of your car”. He gets out, looks and laughs. Puts his hand down and picks the thing up. So cool. Tells me no worries you can pick them up but don’t drop them as their abdomens split when they hit the floor.

Over the next few miles I noticed several more crossing the road along with many ground squirrels.

I made the decision to stick with Route 66, turning right instead of left. As I stood at the junction contemplating my decision a guy jumps out of his car and offers me an apple. Nice gesture, really not expected. It was a great downhill stretch into Needles. Where I’m booked into a room on the banks of the Colorado river. Turns out as not being on the bank, but it is cheap.

I’m out for dinner at the local cafe on the river, but it’s generally poor service and crap food. No wonder they’re not busy.

After a couple of beers I go back to my room to alter my routes to take in the availability of shops and accommodation. Looks like it’s three days to the Grand canyon south rim.

Road closure - with holes! — Road closure – with holes!

Desert Tarantula (Aphonopelma hentzi) probably. About a 1000 species of Tarantula are known!

USA Day 6 Monday November 11th

20191111_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 6 – November 11th

Fly-through map of USA Day 6.

It’s pasta for breakfast due to the fact I didn’t pick up any milk or yoghurt yesterday 🙂 No worries it’s just fuel.

I step outside and it’s bright but a cold 6º. I’m still wearing shorts and my atlas shirt (thanks again Dave). I may have to re-think the morning kit. It will soon warm up and anyway I’ll be climbing all morning.

It’s terrible tarmac for the first couple of miles through the village – a bit like Ukraine. It’s not doing my rear wheel any good either. Two miles in and I cross the Colorado River for the first time. It looks cold and grey and is running fast. It’s busy up through the towns as I stop off at Safeway in Bullhead City for the days supplies.

It’s seriously up hill from here for twelve miles. Thought these days were over and my legs certainly hoped so. It takes me an hour and half to reach the top and it’s a proper struggle at times; 3571 it says on the sign. I take it that’s feet, it is. Only 1088 metres. I have a bit off lunch; apple, cheese and a lovely baguette.

Then it’s a nice descent into Golden Valley knowing it’s a climb back out. No worries, stop for a cold drink and a chocolate bar in a petrol station. The place was full of war veterans in their roadster cars and Harley motorcycles. Expected more gung-ho stuff, but they’re super friendly.

The next climb’s not so bad, only 20 to goand the first 8 uphill. I can pretty much see the whole climb from the start, a dead straight line with a two mile dog leg to the top.

I soon arrive a my hotel. Nice and early 15:00. I need to be careful as it’s dark at 5.It’s a ground floor motel room again and I roll the bike straight in. Excellent.

I go to a Mexican diner next door for dinner. I’m spending so much time with the Mexicans I’m thinking of growing a moustache [Well it is Movember: Ed].

I’m a bit disappointed tonight as I tried to arrange my first Couch Surf but the host wasn’t available.

Definitely on the cards soon though.

Colorado River, Needles. California this side and Arizona on the other.

USA Day 7 Tuesday November 12th

20191112_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 7 – November 12th

Fly-through map of USA Day 7.

I Crossed the border in to Arizona yesterday afternoon so the clocks go forward an hour. I have breakfast in the motel at 6 and it’s still very dark so I got all my gear ready to go but it is to dark still at 7. The sun’s creeping up and I set off at 7:20, still early.

As I climb out of Kingman I’m aware that the sun is rising directly in front of me. This means the drivers behind are dazzled by the sun and won’t have a good veiw of me or the road. So I stop and put my rear lights on. It’s cold and the hard shoulder is only a metre wide and very uneven. Not a good start to the day.

An hour later and it’s all change the sun has risen, it’s not so cold and the hard shoulder is wide and smooth. It’s rolling roads for the next couple of hours and the miles are easy.

At 10:30 I stop for some food and a rest. I perch myself on some boulders overlooking the highway, with a great view across the valley. Truckers are honking their horns as they pass. Not much happening today, the roads are quiet and I’m pleasantly buzzing along.

Not far to go now so I pull of the highway onto the original Route 66. On pulling into Seligman the high street is like a scene from a western movie; saloons, barbers and a Sheriff’s office. I decide to have lunch in the Roadkill cafe/saloon. It’s typical American stuff. A large wooden bar, ranch style restaurant, stuffed animals and more shit than you can imagine; T-shirts, fridge magnets, teddy bears and a whole lot more.

It’s only 2 mile to my motel. The lady is multi-tasking today she tells me. Running the bar, office and serving pizzas. I’ll be seeing a lot of her tonight 🙂 .

The Roadkill Cafe on Route 66 mmm hedgehog pizza

USA Day 8 Wednesday November 13th

20191113_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 8 – November 13th

Fly-through map of USA Day 8.

I pull out of the motel at 7:15. the roads are white with ice. I’m not liking this. Two routes this morning 70 miles and not a lot of climbing up through the local roads or, 94 miles 1000 metres of climbing but clear on the maps.

I turn left for the short option. After only 800m it seems the left turn is via a farm with large no entry signs all around. Plus pictures of firearms. Not for me, so I do a U turn and prepare myself for the 90+ miles. I have to pull over and put on my gloves for the first time. Not a great start.

It’s cold but dry so I get my head down and my first stop is Ash Fork. I need to pick up water, I have food onboard; bread and cheese. 20 miles in and I ride through Ash but it’s too cold to stop, even though I’m climbing. The next place is Williams at 40 miles. This place is just made up of Disney like saloons, hotels and garages. I pull over at a garage and get my water, chocolate and sprite. It’s 50+ miles to go from here but I’m making good time. I turn left and this is the road to the canyon.

I take off my jacket and gloves but it’s still a chilly head-wind. It’s just a long undulating road ahead, slowly climbing.

The sky is blue and looks very warm. Not so, my feet have been cold all day. Nothing to do with the fact I’ve had these summer socks on since Poland. Time to change maybe!

It’s not a hard ride this afternoon as I made good time this morning so I’m not worried about it getting dark. I planned to finish around 4 but I should be done at 3.

The ground floor room at the motel allows me to roll the bike straight in. Cool, going to go over the bike tomorrow and visit the canyon.

Dinner is in the hotel with a hundred German tourists. All good fun.

Betty Boop Motel sign. Norwegians must be trusted!

PB133869 — Ford Thunderbird, with Farmall (International Harvester) and John Deere Tractors

USA Day 9 Thursday November 14th

20191114_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 9 – November 14th

Fly-through Map USA Day 9 Helicopter flight.

Fly-through USA Day 9 cycle and hike.

I’m up early for a very busy day. It’s a great start with breakfast with the Germans, and the waiter thinks I’m part of the tour group. No complaints. I remove all the baggage from the bike.

I leave for airport at 8:00. Arrive at 10 past. Looks like I’m first here. I watch the crew do their safety checks, before they go through the safety briefing.

I’m sat in the front right side. Great seat. The rotors are running and the captain introduces herself to each of us. It’s gentle take off and we head across the forest. Probably only a hundred feet or so above the trees. Clear blue skies and the rim of the Canyon on the horizon. We don’t seem to be going very fast as we near the rim. WOW what a surprise, the depth and size as you come over the rim is amazing.

The river runs off to the north and the colours are amazing. Dale the pilot is answering questions and briefing us on directions and place names. It’s a truly awe-inspiring sight. The vastness is amazing. Dale completes her route over the next 30 minutes. Briefing us on names and formations as we circle the canyon. On the way back to the heliport she points out herds of buffalo roaming below. I’m soon out of the helicopter and keen to get back to the canyon.

First I’m up to the tourist info office on the bike. The park pass is twenty dollars but valued for seven days. Well worth it. The assistant explains everything I should do in the park, bombarding me with masses of information. I finally get away and ride up to the entrance. Two miles to the park and another three to the south rim.

I get a good view of the Canyon and a couple of shots of my bike in the foreground.
I take the bike down to Bright Angel trail head and lock it up. It’s a 10 mile hike along the rim to Hermits view-point with other view-points dotted along the way.

It’s a paved path with barriers at the more vulnerable spots. All immaculately clean, not a drop of litter to be seen. A far cry from China and the Stan’s.

It’s busy to start with but as I get further away from the gift shops and cafes I’m practically on my own.

The views are stunning and the Condors have appeared also. Gliding on thermals without a beat of their wings, there is also a few smaller birds about, but most have migrated south at this time of the year.

A coupe of hours into the walk and I spot a “Mule Deer” a huge animal just sat in the brush about 10 metres off the path. It takes a little time before I realise there are three of them spread over a small area. They don’t seem bothered by my presence at all and I’m within a couple of metres.

Finally I arrive at the Hermits Rest the end of this trail. I jump on a courtesy bus back to Bright Angel to pick up my bike.

I haven’t eaten since 7 this morning and its now nearly 5pm. Do I head back or eat and ride back in the dark? I eat and a couple of beers. Put my rear light on and set off home the 8 miles or so. The car drivers leaving the park are very courteous and leave me lots of space. It’s downhill and I’m in a hurry, as I speed along a herd of the Mule deer cross the road, at least two with a grand set of antlers. I’d best calm down as I wouldn’t want to run into them. Soon home safely to go through photos and videos before I shower and eat. PASTA and PIZZA not a place I’d recommend.

Excellent day.

Helicopter ready for Grand Canyon flight — Helicopter read for Grand Canyon flight

USA Day 10 Friday November 15th

20191115_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 10 – November 15th

Fly-through Map USA Day 10.

Breakfast in the hotel again this morning. Only difference, I had to pay for it. Book out out 7:30, cold and overcast, got my gloves and jacket on already. First 30 mile is a reversal of my entry to the park. Left turn and I’m off down the Fort Valley road scenic route. Passing Red mountain on my right as we trundle through Coconino National Forest.

Take a break at 45 miles, nice little picnic on the edge of the forest. Spotted a Greater roadrunner as I relaxed. (Geococcyx californianus)

Rolling hills are getting a little tougher now, head wind is trying me. Just push on!. After 15m things change around. Long downhills and the wind on my back (sometimes). Not long before I’ve entered Flagstaff, altitude 6906, Founded 1882. That’s what it says on the sign.

Lovely steam engine as we reach the centre. Turn right and head out of town, I know there’s a whole street of motels along this way. Just as I’m about to leave town I decide on the Western hills. Nothing smart, ground floor and clean. Plenty good enough for me.

PB154021 — A 2-6-6-2 Baldwin Mallet Locomotive(1929) at Arizona Historical Society’s Pioneer Museum, Flagstaff

USA Day 11 Saturday November 16th

20191116_ridewithgpsmap — Route USA Day 11 – November 16th

Fly-through Map of USA Day 11.

Breakfast on the bed this morning; muesli and yogurt and some fruit. On the road as early as possible today. 95 miles and I’d like to video call Dale later.

Head out at 7 with my damp gloves on. Due to health reasons I had to wash them last night!

I’m straight out onto Highway 180, Route 66, Purple Heart trail; it’s all the same road. Nice and flat and with a wide hard shoulder. In fact it’s slightly downhill and no wind. Excellent; I’m flying and after calling in for water my average speed is in the low 20s.

It’s prairie to both right and left with the odd large rock outcrop. It’s proper Indian country especially when combined with the town names “Two Arrows” and “Two Guns”.

Navajo Nation is to the north and Fort Apache Reservation to the south.

After three hours I pull over for a hot drink; it’s still very cold and the sun hasn’t broken through yet.

I give Linney a call to catch up with what’s happening at home and to say I hoped to call later whilst he’s at Dale’s birthday party.

Only 30 miles to go. Long flat straight roads and I’m booked in to another motel within 2 hours. I’ve averaged 18 miles an hour today. Happy.

I give Dale and the lads a call at the Ratling club, but it’s all very chaotic and on a poor line.

Hope you had a great night Dale and not to much to drink. [Lovely night. Lot’s of People. Many thanks to all those who made the effort: Ed]

Overland To India

See how Ben and Jess are getting on as they take a more southern route across Asia to India. You can catch up with them here. An excerpt is below.

They have now flown to India. It appears that whilst they are in India they will travel separately. Jess is in Goa and Ben is in Pondicherry (I think).

20191117_JessBen

Welcome Home

whatsapp-image-2019-11-06-at-16.47.162.jpg — Keith, Dale and Linford at the Rugby World Cup Final

Welcome Home

Let’s welcome home Dale and Linford who have arrived back in the UK this week. Keith, on the other hand, has nipped over to the USA to continue cycling. More on that later.

Thanks

It’s Graham’s Birthday [5th November] today so had a little moment thinking about him: he would have been 64!

20191105_StevenGrahamBikes — Graham & Steven: in proper cycling togs!

Well it’s the final day, Linney and Camilla flew home today (have a safe journey guys) and Keith flew on to LA to start the next leg of his holiday (have a great time mate, hope the weather’s good for you and you are able to get out of the urban sprawl).

Well that leaves me in Osaka for one last day and the logistical nightmare of getting my bike and bags up to the airport; not the easiest of things to do. Keith made two journeys and stored his bike up at the airport a day early and Linney moved hotels to be closer to the airport and he and Camilla struggled with their bikes and bags on the train. I have opted to have the bike couriered up to the airport and then go on the train with my bags. This also involves sleeping at the airport; if I can camp in the desert I can definitely sleep in an airport, “nothing can go wrong”

To everyone who has supported our charities it has been a very humbling experience receiving all your positive comments and donations to our named charities, Alzheimer’s Society, the Fight for Sight charity and for the Slide Away charity. We have raised over £7.5K and really appreciate all the donations; an amazing achievement.

The only other thing to do is say my thanks to all that have supported our little jaunt, I apologise for not being able to name every one; the list would go on forever, however a few do need a special THANKS:

Billy Plews & Tina Plews East Kent Foods

For their continued sponsorship, they have supported every tour we have done, Cheers, (Though Bill was a bit concerned before we left, “you don’t need food and water all the way to Japan do you Housey”! was his first comment

Roy Berkhauer From R B Air Conditioning Services

Once again cheers mate supported every tour with a massive donation for the kits.

James Ritson McGinley Support Services

A big thanks to Jimmy and his team from the village.

Dave Austen

Cant say enough about your support mate, truly missed you on this year’s tour, I know you will be ready for next year, watch this space! A legend in China we met your agent, stall full of goodies.

Carl Moses & Cathal Bartolo

Cheers guys for starting the tour with us, made the first 1000 miles a doddle, pleasure riding with both of you.

Roger Hadfield

Driving to Poland and back, with a load of mad cyclists, who needed waiting on hand and foot, one of the only blokes I Know who can shut Carl up, for that reason you are welcome to drive us all over the place.

Rylan House

For making a great effort in joining us for the last 1000 miles (930), Cheers “Young Un” a very special experience cycling with your “Old Man” and that guy you sold your bike to in China is so pleased with it.

Keith & Linford House

A pleasure and a privilege to cycle with you two guys, can’t wait for the next “Holiday”

Steven House

For editing the website and blog, making sense of my cobbled together words and putting some sort of structure to the thing. Cheers Steve we’ll have a little beer when I get home.

Sandra House

Last but not least a massive Thank You to the fairest rose of all, thanks for letting me go on this mad caper, can’t wait to see you again in early November and getting a job again.

Charity Update

Many many thanks to all those that have donated.

All the Details of the Calais to Shanghai Ride

Map of first 9 weeks.

Map of last 7 weeks in China and 3 weeks in Japan.

Full spreadsheet of everyday’s ride.

All the Details of the Japan rides

Spreadsheet of Japan Days details

Keith in the USA

Keith has flown to Los Angeles in the USA and is planning to ride across the continent. The first stage is a ride to Austin, Texas to visit his sister Debbie.

Planned route from LA to Austin via the Grand Canyon.

This weeks ride in the USA.

This week: 225 miles, 9535 ft climbing and 17:43 hours riding

USA Day 1 Wednesday November 6th – LA Loop

20191106_ridewithgpsmap — USA Day 1 – November 6th

Fly-through Map of USA Day 1.

It’s my first day riding in the USA. I spent yesterday evening putting the bike back together, adjusting bits and pieces, and re-packing my panniers.

I have a relaxed start as I’m nervous about riding in the US. Not sure why, maybe the drivers are poor and the roads I’m likely to ride on not so good. Also I read up on highway codes in the US and every state is different. Not helpful at all.

I get out on the road around 10:00 and my plan is to head for Santa Monica and Muscle Beach. It should be pretty simple, just follow the 3rd Avenue West. The roads are not great and there are numerous stop signs and traffic lights. I’m doing my best to be patient with them but I have an urge to jump them when all is clear!

An hour later I’m on the beach. I’ve not enjoyed my journey here but things will get better. The cycle path along the coast is very good. Not too many skaters or dog walkers. It’s overcast today so that may be the reason there are not so many on Muscle Beach and the volleyball courts. I’m enjoying the ride now, relaxing and taking in the scenery. I see seals off Manhattan Beach, the sun shinning and it’s a quiet path down as far as Torrance Beach. I cut inland at this point, 40 miles into my ride. That was all I set out to do.

The roads are busy now and full of trucks busy coming and going from the port.

Long Beach is my destination but I’m not liking the traffic it’s far too heavy. So I start heading back to downtown LA. It’s not long before the traffic improves and I’m cruising the downtown streets.

I locate a local bike shop and purchase an inner-tube, the guy has no WD40 or grease. But he tells me where to purchase the WD and gives me a knob of grease in tin foil. Nice man. I pop into the local supermarket to pick up tomorrow’s lunch and get the WD40. The place is full of Mexicans; I should have done Spanish at school!

Then it’s back to the digs where I have a bite to eat then sort the pedals out on the bike. I dis-assemble the cranks then clean, grease and re-assemble. Didn’t take long, all seems fine now.

I have dinner at Gut’s; burger, salad and chips, and then back to the Holiday Lodge motel; not the classiest of joints!

USA Day 2 Thursday November 7th

20191107_ridewithgpsmap — USA Day 2 – November 7th

Fly-through Map of USA Day 2.

I’m all ready to depart at 7:00, packed and ready to roll.

Getting out of LA turned into a battle for the first couple of hours. It was all steep climbs and stop signs. I’m feeling tired from the start and the short sharp inclines aren’t helping.

I stop for lunch at a primary school sports field. It’s a wonderful expanse of baseball and football fields. All in pristine condition. Not surprising given the area they’re in. All the timeI’m under the watchful eye of the local Police. I pass Harvard University [this University is in Massachusetts! so not sure what this is: Ed] shortly after and on to the Electric Pacific bike trail.

It’s a lovely 10 mile stretch of new tarmac and I pass only three other people. I spot a cycle store (Don’s Cycles) so pop in and buy some grease for my bottom brackets. Don follows me out the store and spots my bike. We then have 20 minutes of me telling him where I’ve been and him advising me of where I should go. Lovely bloke, very helpful.

Once I clear LA the Lytle canyon is my next challenge. It’s 14 miles of twisted climbing to end my day. Not what I wanted as I’ve been feeling tired all day.

It takes me 90 minutes to cover the ground after fueling up at a coffee shop.

The Best Western hotel is a bit dated!

USA Day 3 Friday November 8th

Fly-through Map of USA Day 3.

I had a great breakfast this morning with make your own waffles included. The weather’s good again as I continue the climb out of the canyon. Train whistles echo up the valley as they also weave their way up. they are pulling hundreds of containers with their eight locomotives.

I drop down gradually and follow the “Old Woman Creek Road” along undulating highway with poor hard shoulders. Luckily the road’s not too busy. I’m making good time this morning and by midday I’ve got over 50 miles in the bag. I pull in to a large pile of boulders to seek some shade for lunch. It’s 30º now. It’s a ham and cheese roll, banana and apple and I’m refuelled.

About an hour later I pull into a layby to check out hotels. As I come to a halt a couple in a mobile home ask, ‘Tea, coffee or water?’. Turns out they were from Gouda (Netherlands) and are very nice and very chatty. They;ve been in the US visiting friends and touring for 6 weeks. After two bottles of water and a cup of tea we said our farewells.

I’m still not feeling great and my legs are aching on any sort of climb. Perhaps the two weeks off the bike hasn’t helped! No worries, I still did 85 miles today on some difficult terrain. Better tomorrow 🙂

BNSF Freight Train coming up the Cajon Pass, California, USA

USA Day 4 Saturday November 9th

[Keith camped this night with no wi-fi – so this day will be included in next weeks post: Ed]

Overland To India

See how Ben and Jess are getting on as they take a more southern route across Asia to India. You can catch up with them here. An excerpt is below.

They have now flown to India. It appears that whilst they are in India they will travel separately. I think they both flew to Delhi over the Himalayas, but Jess is now in Chennai! Where Ben is I don’t know!

20191109_JessBen

Japan World Cup Rugby Final

Mt Fuji - clear at last — Mt Fuji – clear at last

Note

Keith and Linford don’t ride this week but rather travelled around with Charlee and Camilla. Some photos are posted below.

Meanwhile Dale continues to ride around Honshu Island as he returns to Osaka.

Charity Update

Many thanks to those that have donated.

Map and bike and bear — Map and bike and Slide Away bear

Week 20 Summary: Dale’s Tour

Dale has been looping around Honshu Island and this week returns to Osaka from Yokohama via Mt Fuji. He then takes a train to Yokohama to rendezvous with everyone else for the Rugby World Cup Final: England vs South Africa.

This map shows this weeks ride.

This week: 334 miles, 19655 ft climbing and 30:06 hours riding

This map shows Dale’s Japan Tour.

Japan totals: 792 miles, 48019 ft climbing and 68:07 hours riding

Dale Day 8: Sunday October 27th:

Dale didn’t ride today but stayed in Yokohama to watch the Rugby World Cup semi-final between Wales and South Africa: the Boks won 19-16.

Yesterday Dale watched England vs New Zealand in the other semi-final. England stuffed the All Blacks 19-7.

WhatsApp Image 2019-10-26 at 16.33.26(1) — At the Rugby World Cup semi-final: England 19 New Zealand 7

WhatsApp Image 2019-10-26 at 16.33.26 — Dale and friends at the Rugby World Cup semi-final: England 19 New Zealand 7

Dale also saw the Wales vs South Africa semi-final, but its wasn’t such a great game.

At the Rugby World Cup semifinal: Wales vs South Africa

Dale Day 9: Monday October 28th:

20191028_ridewithgpsmap_Dale — Route Japan Day 9 (Dale) – October 28th

I’m back on the road again after two days watching the Rugby semi-finals. I went to both games: Saturday’s was excellent, a great game from an England perspective but unfortunately the Sunday game was a bit of a damp squid and never really got going with South Africa running out the eventual winners,

I met the guys running Ron Rutland’s press releases (him and a guy called James cycled from Wales to Japan, they have loads of sponsors and even brought the whistle out for the first game) one of their main sponsors is DHL, so it looks like we will be able to get DHL to ship our bikes back for us. I’m awaiting confirmation but he seemed very positive.

My plan is to now cycle back to Osaka taking the eastern route this time. Starting with todays ride with a potential view of Mount Fuji if the weather is favourable. In the morning we had clear blue skies so it’s looking good, though it can change in the mountains very quickly.

I was climbing all morning up to around 2000m on really good roads with very little traffic. It was quite pleasant with nice views of Lake Yamanakao, the Doshi river and the mountains Yakiyama Omuro, Komotsurushi and Mikuni. It was a stunning section of road across the top of the mountains athough the cloud came down on the western side making it impossible to see Mt Fuji; fate and all that but still a really nice ride with a lovely descent before the final climb of the day.

A good day in the saddle and I needed it after two heavy days watching the rugby!

Dale - hoping for a free pint or two — Dale – hoping for a free pint or two

Dale Day 10: Tuesday October 29th:

20191029_ridewithgpsmap_Dale — Route Japan Day 10 (Dale) – October 29th

Here we go again woke up to the sound of rain pelting against the windows; happy days! At least it is not cold and I only planned to do 70 odd miles. Still it’s really not nice going out in the pouring rain. It’s a bit different when you get caught up in the rain as you have very little choice but to carry on. However I have to move on to get back to Oaska and sort out getting my bike home [Steve’s frame though: Ed], then build myself up for the final; surely nothing can go wrong.

So I hit the road with a steady downpour. I just keep smiling as it’ll all be worth it when England bring home the Webb Ellis trophy (so I kept saying to myself).

All I can say is the rain never stopped all day, in fact it got worse, so I did not stop for lunch and just powered through. I arrived at the hotel around 13:30 but the girl on the front desk said my room would not be ready until 15:00 but I soon sorted that out and gave her my best sad face whilst dripping water all over the place. I think they were well please when they got me a room straight away.

No pictures today as everything was to wet and you could not see anything anyway. The good news is that it is meant to be a little brighter tomorrow. I hope so.

Dale Day 11: Wednesday October 30th:

20191030_ridewithgpsmap_Dale — Route Japan Day 11 (Dale) – October 30th

I woke to a lovely sunny morning so different from yesterday. Once I got out the road my Garmin started to play up. I think it was operator error last night when I downloaded the ma. It was sending me all over the place for the first 10 or so miles as think I had set it on Mountain bike trails by mistake.

So I kept the Garmin running but reverted to MapsMe. This does eat up the battery on my phone but I had a couple of battery packs with me so it should be OK.

This route took me along the shores of Lake Hamana, a very tourist place with hotels doted along the shore and all sorts of trails to follow. I was glad I was not following my Garmin now as I would have been in forest for sure. I had a lovely 20 or so miles along the lake, quite flat and really sunny.

Then it was a nice steady climb up into the forest where I stopped for a little bite to eat at the top of third climb where I prepared some stuff for a radio interview later in the evening.

Dale Day 12: Thursday October 31st:

20191031_ridewithgpsmap_Dale — Route Japan Day 12 (Dale) – October 31st

It’s my penultimate riding day in Japan and another sunny day. I hope it’s the same for Keith & Linford who are visiting Mt Fuji today.

I knew my ride today was going to be through busy towns and cities so I had a few different plans for the day just to see how it plans out. The first part of the ride along national road 23 was not too bad but it ran adjacent to E1A which was really busy and anyway cyclists are not allowed on them. I stayed on the 23 for around 35 miles on pretty good cycle paths across loads of bridges and heavy engineering works.

I’d had enough of stopping and starting now so plan B came into operation. So just after the city of Yokkaichi I turned off onto the minor roads using downloaded google map. It was so much better getting away from all the traffic and before I knew it I was out in the countryside where I belong past forest campsites and warning notices about the monkeys which I didn’t this time.

I then took a single line paved track up to the top which was really good riding. I only met one other car coming down and he looked like a forestry guy. I had a bite to eat at the top and a drink in a picnic site. Then it was back on the bike for the down-hill ride into Otacho. Well as in the UK it’s never all downhill in Japan with their rolling roads, but nevertheless it was a really nice ride today the first part in typical Japanese cities and town and the second part in their fabulous unspoiled country-side. Quite a contrast between the two.

Dale Day 13: Friday November 1st: Last Day on the Road

20191101_ridewithgpsmap_Dale — Route Japan Day 13 (Dale) – November 1st

It’s my last days cycling in Japan; it has been a wonderful experience they are really nice people and their manners are amazing. The food’s not really to my taste but vegetable ramin is pretty good, when it’s available,

I woke up to a really foggy morning but the girl on reception assured me it would all clear shortly so sat and had an extra coffee and cake with her and sure enough the fog cleared. Just as I was about to leave Keith contacted me about ticket prices for the final. I said do it mate from our joint account so I left with a spring in my pedals thinking, “we have only gone and done it! cycled here and get to watch the final, nothing can go wrong”.

But my navigation was wayward for bit as at 2 miles I got a bit confused but managed to get back on track in the end,. Then it all went a bit pear shaped at 15 miles in; there was a massive mudslide so I could not pass the road but the guy sent me down this little track. Mate is was rough, good old planning, bhut even that was un-passable at the end so I backed up and went on the road. It was really nice scenery and the guys working on the mudslide offered to give me a lift, I just smiled and told them I had World Cup final tickets so no problem. I’m not sure they understood a word.

After that it was a surprisingly pleasant ride into the outskirts of Osaka and then I hit highway number 1, which you are not allowed to cycle on, but as I stopped and tried to look intelligent looking at electronic maps, a really nice guy said there is a cycle path adjacent to the highway, he drove his car up to show me, nice guy, so a relatively easy ride into the city.

I booked into the hotel had a quick shower then went out to sort the bike packaging. Then I had tickets to Yokohama for tomorrow to sort out.

It was a great tour of Honshu Island, with really pleasant people and all a credit to the nation.

Cannondale T700, 9000 miles all done and getting ready to be shipped home

Keith & Charlee

These two did some travelling around. Sadly the hike up Mt Fuji was called off – bad visibility. But they did have a great days rafting on the Yoshino river.

Whitewater rafting on the Yoshino River in Kochi Prefecture, Japan with Happy Raft!

Charlee with Fireweed or Burning Bush (Kochia scoparia) a pink grass

Dale Day 14: Saturday November 2nd: World Cup Final

[Dale, Keith, Linford, Charlee and Camilla are all going to the Rugby World Cup final: England vs South Africa. Hopefully we’ll get some photos: Ed]

All the Details of the Japan rides

Spreadsheet of Japan Days details

Overland To India

See how Ben and Jess are getting on as they take a more southern route across Asia to India. You can catch up with them here. An excerpt is below.

After riding 6000 miles they are now in Almaty, Kazakhstan and will have a two week break here before flying to India.

20191101_JessBen

Japan Double Tour

Note

Things get a bit tricky this week as Keith & Linford are doing a ride south of Osaka whilst Dale is riding alone heading north out of Osaka. Both itineraries are given below.

Things have got out of wack because Dale has been visited by Sandra and Rylan these past 10 days whilst Charlie and Camilla arrive to rendezvous with Keith and Linford this w/e!

Charity Update

Many thanks to those that have donated.

Week 19 Summary: Keith & Linford’s Tour

These two have looped out of Osaka. Going south to the city of Oita for the Rugby World Cup 1/4 final between England and Australia before a rendezvous back in Osaka with Charlie and Camilla.

This map shows this weeks ride.

This week: 305.3 miles, 8213 ft climbing and 21:40 hours riding

This map shows Keith and Linford’s Japan ride.

Total in Japan: 661.1 miles, 22423ft climbing and 51:51 hours riding

Day 9: Sunday October 20th:

20191020_ridewithgpsmap — Route Japan Day 9 (Keith and Linford) – October 20th

Fly-through Map of Japan Day 9.

We'd seen this vehicle before - but no-one around to say hello to now. — We’d seen this vehicle before – but no-one around to say hello to now.

We were up early for breakfast and then had short ride of 14 miles to Beppu ferry terminal. Three hour crossing to Yawatahama went pretty slowly. Feeling rough from yesterday 👍

We came straight off the boat and pushed on to Ozu which was only 20 miles away and mainly through built up areas.

We arrive at our hotel in enough time to set up laptop/tv and settled down to watch the second set of 1/4 final games. Both good games👍, but both results not what I wanted ☹️. [Wales beat France and South Africa beat Japan: Ed]

Day 10: Monday October 21st:

20191021_ridewithgpsmap — Route Japan Day 10 (Keith and Linford) – October 21st

Fly-through Map of Japan Day 10.

We have 75 miles planned for today but the weather outlook is not looking very good. We were out sorting the bikes at 7:30; bit of oil here and there, air in the tyres and adjusting a front wheel bearing. Ready to roll.

It was a steady climb for the first fifteen miles and slightly chilly and damp. Unfortunately as we climb up the valley the views are ruined by low cloud and mist. It does’nt change all day. After a hour or so we pull over into a Co-op looking for fruit. Seems Seven-Eleven and the other convenience stores don’t sell fruit. Pick up a couple of apples and a bag of tangerines.

The day just gets duller and duller as we follow the course of the river. Traffic’s busy and the roads are not great. Lunch is a microwave meal in a “Family Mart” with coffee and chocolate eclairs to finish.

The final climb of the day and Linney’s on a mission. Not sure if he’s upset because I ate most of the eclairs or he wants to finish before it rains. No worries we’re soon making enquiries for a room in another dodgy hotel.

We leave that behind and find the delightful “Love max Hotel”. It’s not lovely at all.

Day 11: Tuesday October 22nd:

20191022_ridewithgpsmap — Route Japan Day 11 (Keith and Linford) – October 22nd

Fly-through Map of Japan Day 11.

It was Coronation Day yesterday. A holiday we knew nothing about until the parades started in the evening. There were plenty of drums and the same float as the autumn festival.

We were up and ready to go at 7:45; pumped up Linney’s tyre, oil my chain and off we go. A lap of the car-park to discover I sheared a bolt on my rear pannier yesterday. 5 minutes and rolling. Amazing things Ty-wraps.

Lunch stop at the Ikeda Dam and Yoshino river

The first 10 miles is up hill this morning, then all down hill pretty much. It was a steady climb in the muggy atmostphere. Sun was threatning to break out as we passed some lovely small holdings along the river. Not long before we reach the top, marked by a small tunnel. We descended following the Yoshino river which is pretty sizeable given it was close to its source. We stop for photos on the IKEDA dam.

We picked up some bits for our picnic at the “Lawsons Store”. and pulled over at a mini golf course on the side of the river to enjoy our lunch. Followed by fresh strawberries and banana chips.

The rest of the day was very enjoyable, downhill, along the tow path ( a cycle route).

We arrived out our shabby hotel at 15:00.

Later we went out for dinner at “Buddy Buddy” – the craft ale sign outside was the decider. The chef guy was lovely and chatty; Linney had the set Oyster dinner and I stuck to the chicken. The craft ale was on tap and we tried a few; all very good but the pale ale was exceptional. Pity we won’t be back.

Day 12: Wednesday October 23rd: OUR LAST DAY OF CYCLING

20191023_ridewithgpsmap — Route Japan Day 12 (Keith and Linford) – October 23rd

Fly-through Map of Japan Day 12.

We were up and out at 07:00.

The ferry leaves at 8. We were relieved to find our bikes haven’t been touched as we’d left them in the hotel open carpark. It was a warm bright morning as we pull into 7/11 to buy breakfast.

On arrival at the ferry terminal we purchased tickets and joined the queue to board. It was still only 07:25 but no boat was in sight.

Three lorries, six cars, three motorbikes and our two bikes to load. Doesn’t take five minutes. We go on board looking for a quiet corner were we can have our breakfast and a snooze. No worries, there are only a handful of passengers. You do well to meet people as you walk around the decks. Smooth sunny crossing, but nothing to look at.

We disembark dead on time after a 2 hour crossing. 50 miles today give or take. The first twelve are uphill out of the port then a couple of miles of flat countryside and then 35 miles of urbanisation. We take a break straight away. Linney wants to change his shorts. I take a look at my bike rear deraileur playing up. Shit iv’e broken the gear cable. What to do?

1, Change cable. (probably an hour, bar tape removed, gears may not be perfect)
2, Shorten chain (single speed)
3, Adjust deraileur to run on a higher gear (Use front deraileur, 3 gears)

I adjust deraileur in a couple of minutes and off we go. Linney leading (as always ) up the hill. I think he’s forgotten I don’t have all my gears. It’s only an hour, so press on up. Just happens to be a bright sunshiny day. Over the top then a nice descent into the town (past a petrochemical works).

Soon it’s time to eat again, “picnic” Linney says “there’s a park and lake ahead”. So we pull into Lawson’s Store for food. Out the store and into the park. Think reservoir with grass band around it. Not to worry it’s clean and quiet.

We spend the rest of the day riding through town but it’s not bad we keep rolling using both the roads and cycle-paths.

We book into our hotel at 15:00.

That’s our cycling over, I for one will miss it. Seems sad that we are done, but Charlee and Camilla arrive tomorrow. That’s exciting.

We have pizza for dinner as I fancied something more like home. Will be full on Japanese again tomorrow with the girls.

Day 13: Thursday October 24th:

[I’m guessing they hung out in Osaka all day and then went to the airport to pick up Charlee & Camilla: Ed]

Day 14: Friday October 25th:

It's not Egg and Chips is it? — It’s not Egg and Chips is it?

Day 15: Saturday October 26th:

[No news or photos from today. I expect they enjoyed the England vs NZ game though!: Ed]

Week 19 Summary: Dale’s Tour

After spending time with Sandra and Rylan travelling around Japan Dale is now cycling North on his own. [He’ll be looping back to Yokahama for the Rugby semi-final and final w/ends and will rendezvous with the others there: Ed]

This map shows this weeks ride.

This week: 458.2 miles, 27376 ft climbing and 38:01 hours riding

Dale Day 1: Sunday October 20th:

20191020_ridewithgpsmap_Dale — Route Japan Day 1 (Dale) – October 20th

It was a great result last night as England stuffed the Aussies [Rugby World Cup 1/4 final 40-16: Ed], Sandra & I watched it in an English bar in Oaska but Keith & Linney had tickets. Fair play we could have had tickets, but Sandra is flying home very early in the morning, so we could not take them up on the very generous offer of tickets; another bonus point for me, the doting husband that I am!

It was a very early start and we were up at 05:15 to walk Sandra to the station sort the tickets out and say our farewells agai. It’s only for 3 weeks this time as I have booked a flight home on the 6th November.

Then I went back to the hotel had breakfast and then get the bike ready. To be honest I was pretty nervous, not about riding on my own, but just getting out of Oaska, then riding through all the busy towns and cities. It’s really not my forte, especially without the expert map reading skills of Linney being there to guide me. Hence I had picked a relatively easy route out of Oaska; down to the river then follow the river to the outskirts of Otsu and then follow Lake Biwa around to Takashima; nothing could go wrong.

To be perfectly honest I was quite pleased with myself as it all went pretty smoothly to the river bank. Though the cycle track was very good with loads of road bikes on it every few miles they did put in some serious barriers to stop vehicles which were ok for road bikes but a pain with all the panniers on. I soon got the hang of it though. So enjoyed traffic free cycling for the first 25 miles and it was excellent following the river and watching all the sports going on; rugby, football, baseball, tennis, golf, with a bit of rowing and kayaking thrown in, all in all a good mornings ride.

Then I hit a busy road into Otsu had lunch on the very nice promenade of Lake Biwa, and then carried on a minor road hugging the lake. I knew the rugby was on at 16:15 so I really wanted to be done around 15:30. Just as I was coming up to that time I overtook a guy on a shopping bike with a massive backpack on and said the normal “hello” he replied the same with a massive Manc accent. We ended up watching the first game with him and his mate from Guernsey and they sorted a place for me to stay at a friends of theirs place about 8 miles down the road.

I sat watched the rugby with them but went careful on the beers and then moved onto the Japanese style lodge and natural hot spring (Onsen) they had arranged for me. Well the place was superb, but unfortunately no WIFI so I went to the local bar and caught the 2nd half of the game. The hot spring Onsen was really good; where were they when we needed them a couple of months ago? I felt brand new when I came out; a bit pink but nevertheless very relaxed.

Dale Day 2: Monday October 21st:

20191021_ridewithgpsmap_Dale — Route Japan Day 2 (Dale) – October 21st

My bed in the traditional Japanese Inn was surprising comfortable; just a thin mattress laid out on the wooden floor and a weird pillow. With no breakfast supplied I had a croissant, coffee and bananas bought from the local store the previous night. I said my thanks to the owners and made an early start.

My plan was to head to Fukui through a couple of ski resorts via the Port of Tsurga though nothing was booked; just pedal and see how it goes.

The road was not that busy thankfully as it was not that wide. The first part was just a bit bumpy before a steady climb past the ski slopes of Kunizaki snow park. Quite a nice climb just steady nothing too serious, though it did get the legs burning after a couple of weeks out of the saddle.

A view of the sea - Wakasa-wan (which I think is the name of the bay) — A view of the sea – Wakasa-wan (which I think is the name of the bay)

Before I knew it I was coming into the Port of Tsuga. It was nice to see the sea but I kept to the outskirts of the town rather than going through the middle. As the road got steeper I hit the first of a series of 7 tunnels all about 1000m long. They were very well lit but not much room and really noisy. I stopped for lunch at a shrine over-looking the bay, really nice spot and a nice bowl of noodle soup; the guy took the meat out of it for me!

After lunch I stayed on the coast for a while and met a group of Chinese cyclists touring in Japan. We had a nice chat and exchanged our details hopefully they will get in touch again. Then I headed inland where it started to get very built up again through the city of Echizen and stayed like that all the way to Fukui.

I stopped at a 7-11 just before Fukui as they have a good WIFI and sorted out a hotel before I rolled into town, ready for another Onsen, then some food, before sorting out tomorrows ride.

Dale Day 3: Tuesday October 22nd:

20191022_ridewithgpsmap_Dale — Route Japan Day 3 (Dale) – October 22nd

I’m still getting used to this cycling alone thing. I enjoy the time on the road but it’s a bit weird at meal-times. Nevertheless I had a really good fill this morning; a cheese pasta dish. Strange for breakfast but very nice.

I had a pretty steady day planned for today up to Kanazawa but through the busy industrial area of Komatsu. All being well I should be able to keep to the outside of it.

With my plan in place I set off to get out of Fukui, all pretty straight forward,. Book a place near to your exit point; experience counts, all good. It was quite a pleasant morning sun breaking through the clouds with mist over the mountains I will be climbing tomorrow. I was feeling good so got a good pace on. Stopped for a drink at a little picnic spot and a nice lady gave me a free cup of coffee and a little cake; she used to live in Cambridge and was selling stuff for a local charity. She was very impressed with our charity thing too.

Then before I knew it I was in the outskirts of the industrial area; very stop and start for the last 20 miles just through industrial sprawl. It was a very easy day on the bike but it will all change tomorrow when I start to head for Yokohama across the mountain ranges. Looking forward to the adventure; nothing can go wrong.

[No photos from the 22nd: Ed]

Dale Day 4: Wednesday October 23rd:

20191023_ridewithgpsmap_Dale — Route Japan Day 4 (Dale) – October 23rd

I woke up to a lovely sunny morning which always makes you feel better. As does a massive breakfast. I knew I had a big day of climbing ahead of me. I set off early to get out of the city Kanazawa before the rush hour started in earnest. Actually it was not that bad as once again i had stayed on the right side (the exit side) of the city. I was soon out of the city and hitting a steady climb up to the mountains. It was nothing too serious with the climbing and the road was very quiet. This made for a lovely start to the morning, happy days.

I was just enjoying the clear roads and the lovely scenery as I meandered up the steady climb through the small villages and towns and had a bite to eat and a nice chat to a lady who ran a small shop in Inotan when she warned me that the road would get a bit steeper very soon.

Takahara river (or perhaps the Jinzu again)

She was correct but it was still ok as I followed the river (not sure of the name [Jinzu and then the Takahara: Ed]), past a series of dams and hydro-electric plants. I reached a peak just before the town of Hida and did my usual thing; stopped in a convenience store for a coffee and more importantly WIFI and booked a place to stay. It all seemed good.

So then set off again for the final 12 or so miles on nice traffic free roads. As I got closer to Takayama I had to make a little detour as no cyclists were allowed through the tunnel. It’s a bit weird as I had been through many tunnels earlier in the ride but it’s not a big deal; just a smaller road over the river.

I had made the same mistake as Keith and Linford with the hotel as it was an adults only one booked by the hour! Not for me! So I pressed on until I found another convenience store, re-jigged the booking and ended up with an Onsen again. I think I am getting used to the hot bath after a hard day in the saddle.

Later I had a lovely meal in the restaurant down the road; vegetable raman and rice, accompanied by a couple from Israel and another couple from Norwich, which capped off a fine day on the road.

Dale Day 5: Thursday October 24th:

20191024_ridewithgpsmap_Dale — Route Japan Day 5 (Dale) – October 24th

I had another good breakfast; left over spaghetti! It’s a massive treat so I had a few bowls as well as the cornflakes and fruit.

I left Takayama and headed straight for the mountains with a pretty steep climb to start off with. You could see the snow-capped mountains in the distance which always gives me a bit of a buzz. I carried on the small road 381 with very little traffic which was nice and signs saying watch out for the bears and monkeys.

It was the same as yesterday as I was climbing all you could see was hydro-plants and dams through pine forests; but it was really pleasant riding. I had to contend with the occasional tunnel but I’m getting used to them now. I keep my back light on and then just ride like Mr Magoo as I can’t see a thing!

I came out of one tunnel and saw a pack of monkeys sitting in the road; amazing! I tried to get my camera out but just took a picture of the trees! I could hear them all around me and I think they could smell the peanuts that keep me going all the time.

Then I went through the biggest tunnel yet about 3 miles long just as my Garmin gave up the ghost. It just froze so I resorted to my phone with a downloaded ridewithgps map; nothing could go wrong!

I’d had a few little mishaps early on but it seemed to be going good and I could even see the screen better. I also had a few battery back ups as well, so all was good.

I just kept riding through the amazing scenery with next to no-one on the road but I did meet a load of New Zealand guys out on the road with hired bikes and a guide. I met them just outside a tunnel. Their guide was a bit worried but I just said “follow me I can’t see a thing!” A few of them did but the rest held back.

WhatsApp Image 2019-10-25 at 11.55.53 — Steam Locomotive JNR No. C12-199. Is a type of 2-6-2T steam locomotive built by the Japanese Government Railways and the Japanese National Railways from 1932 to 1947. A total of 282 Class C12 locomotives were built, 4 are still operational.

As we came out there was a bit of a rest-area with an old steam engine. I took a few pics with them and exchanged details and then got on my way.

It nearly went pear-shaped just after that as I missed a little turn but I managed to go back and find it. Naturally it made me smile that I can still get off-road. It was just a really steep section on an unmade road but pretty good fun and then a really nice downhill to the hotel.

Dale Day 6: Friday October 25th:

20191025_ridewithgpsmap_Dale — Route Japan Day 6 (Dale) – October 25th

A big day is planned for today; will ride to Sagamihara a town just on the outskirts of Yokohamma and then get the train in tomorrow to watch the rugby.

I had an early breakfast and hit the road just after 7:00 in light drizzle hoping it would dry up later. After less than ½ an hour I had part of the answer as it started to rain pretty heavily. I pulled over and put on the full rain jacket, gloves and hat. It was not that cold but with the damp clothes it felt like it and it was coupled with a heavy mist in air. It was a shame as you could not see the stunning scenery, just a murky silent morning.

Thankfully not too much traffic on the roads for the first 20 odd miles but after that it got quite busy through a lot of small towns. Traffic lights at loads of junctions slowed my progress a little and I got some strange looks. “Why is that mad bloke out on his bike in this weather?”; the rain was coming down like stair-rods now.

I was that wet now it just was not worth stopping for anything to eat. I had nuts a bit of fruit, chocolate and plenty of drinks, so just I rode on through. It was good to get out of the built up area and I enjoyed the climbing rather than the descents, as I got a bit cold coming down.

It was a pity because if the weather was clear, I would have been able to see Mt Fuji, from around the town of Kofu to Otsuki. But nothing doing, I could only just see my front wheel. It was the same for Lake Sagami but my consolation is that after the rugby I will be coming back out this way. Hopefully the weather will be better.

I stopped just after Lake Sagami and adjusted both brakes as it was getting difficult to stop in the wet weather. I then did the final descent into Sagamihara. At about 8 miles out they had closed the road as there had been a landslide and then as I started the diversion I met a guy from Hastings on a touring bike, (Graham). He had been on the road for over a year and had cycled from the UK taking the southern route. I had a really nice chat with him. He was on his way to Tokyo and then flying back to Europe next week. We said our good-byes and wished each other luck. He was not into his rugby. Then we went our separate ways.

[Filthy weather meant no photos from today: Ed]

Dale Day 7: Saturday October 26th:

[Dale has tickets for the England vs New Zealand World Cup Rugby semi-final, but heard no word or received any photos! He’s probably in a ditch somewhere: Ed]

[Apparently not! these came in late so apologies to the email versions which missed these: Ed]

All the Details of the Japan rides

Spreadsheet of Japan Days details

Overland To India

See how Ben and Jess are getting on as they take a more southern route across Asia to India. You can catch up with them here. An excerpt is below.

After riding 6000 miles they are now in Almaty, Kazakhstan and will have a two week break here before flying to India.

20191024_JessBen

Into Japan

WhatsApp Image 2019-10-19 at 11.15.34 — Keith, Jonny Wilkinson and Linford at the Oita Stadium for the England Australia match. Rugby Word Cup 1/4 final

Proposed Loop from Osaka to Hiroshima and back

This map shows the proposed route.

Charity Update

Many thanks to those that have donated.

Week 18 Summary: Island Hopping

This map shows this weeks ride.

This week: 355.8 miles, 14210 ft climbing and 30:11 hours riding

Spreadsheet of Japan Days details

Day 1: Saturday October 12th:

20191012_ridewithgpsmap — Route Japan Day 1 – October 12th

Fly-through map of Japan Day 1.

We woke up this morning and it was teeming with rain so we decided to have breakfast and discuss our plan for the day.

Rylan delivered the tent pegs and poles just after 10am. So that meant we had everything we needed to ride; apart from the weather.

We left the hotel at eleven in pouring rain and high winds; it’s Typhoon Hagibis, as you’re probably all aware.

It felt diffent riding on the left hand side of the road and using the cycle paths you share with pedestrians. Off we went, Linney and I happily cycling along in the rain. It wasn’t cold, above 20° but after about an hour the wind seemed to be getting stronger.

We stop and start all the time,; the Japanese are very strict on waiting for the lights to change. Even on pedestrian crossings they were waiting in the pouring rain.

Debris from the trees, spilt bins and bikes fallen over seemed to be everywhere. Broken umbrellas and potted plants were strewn across the pavements. Linney hit a patch of steel and lost his front wheel. Luckily he managed to step of the bike and he stayed upright. Only his dignity was hurt as he picked up his bike. I was thinking “should we be doing this?”.

After a couple of hours and very little progress due to the stopping and starting we found a fast food joint to eat in. Teriyaki seafood for Linney and burger and 10 chips for me. 😦

We get back on the cycle-path and it’s turned colder, so we decide to ride on the road. Now we can ride faster and warm up. Linney spots a hotel after a while, “what about this place?” he says. “Fine by me” I say; It’s ¥3900 for three hours? Whats that all about?

I found out when we tried to book in. One old man (me) and a young boy (Linney). I think I went slightly red as it dawned on me what sort of establishment it was. We rode away fast!

We found a nice hotel a little later, but they only had smoking rooms. Ours smelt like a 70’s cinema.

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