Week 07 To Brazil

Day 33 Sunday 16th February 2025 Cerro de la Glorieta to Tacuarembó

Was quiet expecting our urban cowboy friend to turn up with the eggs sunny side up for breakfast, think that was just in my dreams, but good for small mercies it was dry when we woke up, Bingo fired up the stove, quick cup of coffee, strike the tents and vaminos. It actually looked a nice morning, but a stern warning from “John Fish” aka Bingo warned of an up coming storm.

Off we go in the still wind, hint of sunlight ahead what could go wrong, just a few crackles of lighting, nothing to be worried about. Within two miles we had stopped and put the rain jackets on, good job we are early birds, as we could have been packing the tent up in the rain.

Nice little route today, bit of climbing and some wonderful views over the changing scenery, gone have the false eucalyptuses plantations, now its just wild country with beef cattle grazing, open roads little traffic, just as we like it, except for the torrential rain.

Stayed like it all day, just ploughed through it, once we thought we had a little oasis, sign post for a scenic walk with a cafe, not open, so settled for a bus shelter and a packet of biscuits. can’t stop to long as even though its not cold, you do feel it when you are wet through.

Nice descent into Tacuarembó, if we could see where we was going, once again the drivers have been superb, probably thinking what on earth our they doing out in this storm, it certainly crossed my mind. Nice little cycle path as we entered the town, first hotel we seen, “that’s my favorite hotel” all sorted in no time, though I did feel a bit sorry for them, as two soaking wet guys just turned up, not bothered about their room just wanted a beer! well we had been dry for a whole day!

Day 34 Monday 17th February 2025 Tacuarembó to Rivera/Santana do Livramento

Monday 17th February 2025

Well its Monday again, makes me chuckle as Mary always takes the micky of how I say Monday, cheek if you ask me she is from Dingle, can hardly understand a word the lovely girl says, its usually just dance or sing anyway, have a lovely time on your break Lyle & Mary, see you soon.

Bit of a double bonus today cold porridge and chocolate in the room, then came out ready to ride with another breakfast spread, never going to kick a gift horse in the mouth, had another sitting, once again lovely hospitality, the lovely ladies could not do enough for us finely tuned athletes. Actually a nice place, don’t think we spent enough time yesterday, looking around, probably beer related!

Well today is the last day in Uruguay, what a great place, lovely people, nice drivers, very little litter on the roads, made a good impression on both of us, fair play to the second smallest country in South America, I like small things for some reason, nothing to do with being a tadge on the small side myself, just an observation.

Best get on with this cycling thing, off to the Rivera today, not the Cornish, Italian or French (rule of thumb UK first, then whoever, French last) just one of the things I travel with. Still not getting onto this cycling malarky.
Just a 70 odd mile ride to the border city, think the immigration place is next to the local “Burger King”, we certainly will not be going there I hope. Nice little ride out the wonderful place Tacuarembó with its wide tree planted avenues, cycle freeways a pleasure to ride in, reminiscent of riding in Belgium, Netherlands or Germany, still no mention of France!

I great ride today, lovely countryside, abet put off by the pockets of eucalyptuses plantations, suppose everyone needs to make a living, rolling hills that break up the ride, I find it so much better, than just the straight flat roads, with John Fish aka Bingo saying there is no rain today we can all relax. Going at a good pace, steady away, another thing about those eucalyptuses plantations, there is very little wildlife around them, Bingo had to put up with squashed frogs and armadillos all day. Investigation required by my ever diligent editor, sure there is a connection, also if you find any spelling or incorrect grammar, its down to the said editor, this is just a beer infused story.

On we went, riding to the Rivera, what could be better, few miles from the town, we stopped come up with a little plan, stop for something to eat, the Uruguayan side of the border, as we had a bit of cash to spend, before we went over the border. There is no border as such, we just cycled through then ended up on the Brazilian side of the city, bit of confusion, lets go up here, like the steepest hill we could find, both clambered up it with people clapping out of their windows as we wobbled up the hill. Still not a clue where we was, this is fun, I know how to sort this out, stop in a bakery, with a supermarket next door, have a beer, check the maps! Not good we have to go back the way we came, really that hill again, afraid so,

Just a bit of light refreshment of we go to find the immigration place, as we need have a stamp saying we have entered Brazil, all good missed the hill and went into the plaza next to Mc things, stamps all done in a matter of minutes, guy asked what car I had, just pointed to my dear Surly (sorry Sandra), he just laughed.

Believe it or not we had a meal next door in the shopping thing, next door to all them fast food places, managed to find a little side pasta place, all good with the food then and beer!

Just a little 2 mile ride to a place Bingo had booked, not up the hill, while I was busy chatting to all the locals, selfies and pics of the bikes all a bit of fun.

One last thing great really enjoyed Uruguay, lovely people a credit to the nation.

Day 35 Tuesday 18th February 2025 Santana do Livramento to Rosário do Sul

Dinner in a down town fast food restaurant last night, not what we was looking for, we was heading for some gastro pub, long since gone or never existed, meal all sorted so no worries. Border towns always a bit strange so let it pass as we walk back to the hotel, get some more chocolate, water and some cheese bake things, I was still hungry, need to keep up my calories.

In bed just after 9 as its a school day tomorrow, no rest for the wicked, up early fresh as a daisy, sort the bags out find the bikes, they are locked up over the road in a garage, the night duty porter just looks at us in amazement as we load the bikes up get some more water and just pedal off into the morning mist, see the look in his face, why!

Not a bad day scheduled little 65 mile ride to Rosário do Sul, all being well should be a walk in the park, what could go wrong! Obviously nothing nice steady day with no dramas. Wildlife front coming on nicely, with Bingo getting excited about the “Lesser yellow headed vultures, circling above us, think they may have thought I was an easy kill, stronger than that, soon shown them who was boss, think they maybe tracking us now, waiting for us to set up camp. Bingo then spots a massive bird of prey, sitting on the fence post on the other side of the road, pretty impressive just watching the world go by, he thinks its a Savanna Hawk? Got to mention the snails, the French would have a Sunday dinner with them, the size of Bingos fist (thats big). Another road kill the Bingo is trying to claim is the Brazilian Porcupine, been dead a while I thought, but as usual he is all over it.

30 miles in stop at another petrol station for a coffee and cold drink, not quite warm enough for an ice cream, but its definitely getting there, once again attract a bit of attention with some of the others patrons, had the obligatory selfies and got them to join the Instagram site, left them very happy.

Just rolling hills, very pleasant with a very big hard should, just loving it, sun coming out, this is what its all about, just happened to pass this truckers cafe, lets give it a try, brilliant place and a lovely meal. Self service just pay by the weight of your plate, Bingos was about 4 kg, mine come in slightly less at just under 3.5Kg the young girl at the counter just smiled, we ate the lot great meal, best I have had so far.

Just a little 20 mile roll into Rosário do Sul, found the digs easily, guy at the front reception was not the most welcoming, maybe something to do with us smelling like a dead Brazilian Porcupine, eventually managed to sort the room out. But he would not sell us a beer, does not open till 5 he said! Not on this shift, we needed supplies so we walked into town got the supplies, mainly beer I might add, then had a pleasant afternoon by the pool, living the high life once again. Our favourite recaptioned guy was then as nice as pie, came out with a few towels and even smiled, must of got out the wrong side of bed this morning.

All good though the restaurant is open at 5:30 result, got to eat.

Ringed kingfisher

Day 36 Wednesday 19th February 2025 Rosário do Sul to Santa Maria

Another 50 lengths in the pool last night, this is turning into a triathlon, Rylan be aware we may join you in Barcelona in September, two fit ageing athletes, be good to see you in La Paz mate.

The grumpy old porter was not on shift this morning, his twin was, we could not crack a smile out of him (Elvis Costello song) as we loaded up the bikes, miserable old git, probably just jealous of us two old gits, but not miserable yet!

As we set off, the road was not brilliant, but with my ever cheerful self thinking it will get better, afraid to say it got worse, turned into the miserable old git for a while, as we fought the traffic and the atrocious road conditions, early morning Tourettes Syndrome coming on, feel so sorry for the people who suffer from this respect with a capital R.

To put it plainly it was tough going all day working our little legs in and out of the dusty pot holes, nearly said blue bells then, would have made it nice. Just working the miles out, stopped for an apple, bit of chocolate and warm water, nice little picnic looking over a pond with an egret prancing about (thats what they do when your tired) and the cows wallowing in the pond, as we enjoyed our apple.

Two minutes later first puncture for me, not really surprising with the terrain we have been going, quick little change and we our off again. Good thing we turn right, so we miss most of the traffic, bad thing the road surface does not improve, hey ho just pedal stop moaning. Least we can spend a bit of time on the road now, just be a bit weary the good truck drivers give yo a little beep warning they are coming up to you, the ones with a personality disorder, or a view to kill (James Bond Film) just thunder pass you, scaring the living daylights (on a roll now) out of you. We passed a little fruit selling place both needed a cold drink, bit of a problem, another school boy error no Brazilian real currency, done a deal with Euros, he will be so pleases 20 Euros for two drinks, so what he was a nice man.

Then here we go again another puncture, they tend to come like that usually a bit of tyre wire working its way through the tyre, changed again on off we go into the mid day sun, where only Mad dogs and Bingo & Gringo go, or English men go.

Did a really good two hour stint, pushing hard and fast as these little legs could go, went past a few stores, Bingo just saying they will not take cards, I was gagging for a beer, but no such luck, when he is on a mission he’s on one, I just tagged on.

As we hit the outskirts of Santa Maria, we was flowing past all theses bars and cafes, had a little chat, we are not booked in need to get to the hotel, then we can have a beer OK with a grisly face.

On we go for what seemed like eternity, finally arrived at the Motel! not what we was expecting, if I was a detective I would say a Brothel, so with a little bit of a discussion we spot anther Motel over the road, guess what another brothel, but worse we book a room, not sure what they was expecting, but Bingo and I face as we walked into the mirror clad room was a picture. Me straight to fridge two ice cold beers, result, f*** this lets get out of here, easier said than done. The not so lovely lady tried to charge us for the 15 mins we was in the room, bit of discussion, soon resolved with a sad face from me and a stern word from Bingo, luckily I put the empties back in the fridge, good old Aylesham lad.

So back on the bike let find another place, all sorted in the right area of town, book in quite easily, few beers to settle the nerves, then sort out getting some Brazilian Real and eating

Another 3 mile walk, so it is a triathlon, all sorted with the money stuff, can relax now with a lovely meal.

Day 37 Thursday 20th February 2025 Santa Maria to Júlio De Castilhos

Actually Santa Maria is quite a nice city, if you stay in the right part, lesson learnt don’t always go for the cheapest hotel, they may be not what they seem!

After a lovely meal and few beers, helped to relax and take in the ambiance of this quaint city of Germanic descent, obviously why the beer was good. That good we decided to cut short tomorrows ride and just do a little 40 mile ride to ease these tired bodies, it was nothing to do with too many beers, honestly.

Living the life of luxury, no porridge in the morning had breakfast in the hotel, nice start to the day, just a 40 mile ride into the little town of Júlio de Castilhos. Just needed to navigate out of the City and on to the infamous route 158, all good Bingo guided us expertly through the busy streets, me just following did not have a clue were I was, finally on the dreaded 158. With a 6 mile climb, first climb we had had for a while, so made a pleasant change, just get in the correct gear and pedal, what could be easier. Still a dodgy road though, with trucks edging past you only going a few mph faster that we are, most of them were pretty good to be honest, as always a few bad apples. The climb definitely got the lungs cleared as we edged our way up the tree lined climb, was nice as it was mostly in the shade. First 15 or so miles was all climbing, then hit a plateau, stopped in the shade, got a big bottle of soft drink and an Ice-cream and had 15 minutes in the shade.

Pushed on the road actually got better, with a nice hard shoulder to ride on, in no time at all we was on the outskirts of the small town, had another buffet lunch, with lots of pasta, nice meal, washed down with a cold one, well it was just passed midday and only had a few miles to go, nice stop.

Rolled onto the digs, right on the side of the road, both a bit weary now, but it was a proper hotel, all sorted in no time at all, time to do all the washing and hang the tents out to air them off. We did look like a couple of gypsies, but have to keep your gear good.

Day 38 Friday 21st February 2025 Júlio De Castilhos to Panambi

It’s another sad day in the village, respect for Trisha Dennis family, condolences from Bingo and Gringo, thinking about your family all the very best Ray, Greg and of course Paula, Perry and all your extended family.

Pretty dark when we set of on the highway to heaven (no pun intended) and it certainly was not a highway made by the Romans, them Spanish conquistadors should have concentrated on building roads rather then stealing all the gold, just a thought they may have been Portuguese, but still the same thought.

Very bumpy ride today making transitions from the horrible road surface to the ripo on the side, waiting for the big blast of the horn, from the truckers warning you to get of the road, pretty leary sometimes, but the roads in East Kent aren’t that great so who are we to moan.

Thankfully most of the heavy good traffic turned off to head elsewhere, after 30 or so miles, so we was just left with the bumpy road and very little hard shoulder. The animal count has been static for a while now, just fields upon fields of soya beans, no sign of many farm buildings just massive silos every 10 or so miles

Stopped in the petrol station for the customary medley of ice cream, soft drink and coffee, the fuel of athletes, just after we left the petrol station , bingo had a flat, quick change and we are off again. Thankfully the road surface improved slightly, unfortunately out luck seems to have gone pear shape today, as I suffered a mechanical going up a slight hill, my freewheel just stopped working, Bingo was up ahead so was unaware of the problem, panniers off. rear wheel off, had a little play, then it all started working again, not a good sign usually, but least I got going again, soon caught bingo up who was patiently waiting for me, explained the problem, sure enough it happened three times in the final 30 odd miles.

Just on the outskirts of Panambi it happened again, two Brazilian guys cam over to help, then another cyclist turned up, all helping out, the cyclist said there was one cycle shop in Town, gave us the address, the two guys put my bike in their pick-up truck and drove me to the cycle shop. Bingo road to the digs, booked in, then cycled down to the cycle shop, even the cyclist road back to the shop, sadly the proprietor of the shop could not repair the wheel! Had a good chat with the cyclist, he said his friend runs a cycle shop in the next town, he will be able to fix it he said.

So that the plan, get a lift to the next town tomorrow and try and get the wheel fixed hopefully, so back to the hotel and see if we can sort out a lift to the next Town.

Went down into the small town found “House Bar” had to go in and have a beer and some food, not the best of days, but that’s how it goes sometimes, always the optimist it will be better tomorrow.

Sorted out a lift to Frederico Westphalen in the morning, picking us up at 8:30, things can only get better.

Day 39 Saturday 22nd February 2025 Panambi to Frederico Westphalen

For want of a better word, by my bikes knackered, arranged a lift in a pick up truck to take us to the next Town Frederico Westphalen, allegedly they have quite a few bike shops and one that has been recommend by the road cyclist who helped us yesterday Jalizan Almeida, so off we went, bit apprehensive but we have to try all avenues.

When we got out of the pick-up the bloke and his family who run Mundodabikefw, were waiting or us, the road cyclist had called him, brilliant top people. What a service, the guy (trying to get his name, we both forgot it!) kept his shop open for us and rebuilt my back wheel, then believe or not would not take any money for the repair, just wanted to have loads of pictures taken, one top guy.

So a day off today, watched both rugby games so that was good, England so lucky to come away with anything, I thought they played so negative, but a wins a win.

Sorted out the next few rides, up to Iguazu Falls, about 5 days riding all being well.

It does make you feel so humble, when people show you so much kindest , some great people in this little old world.

Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture
(Cathartes burrovianus)

Week 06 Heading to Uruguay

Day 26 Sunday 9th February Lincoln to Chacabuco

We ate in the hotel last night, nothing fancy, it was just convenient, been a hectic few days.

We was that early this morning we woke the night porter up as creeped down stairs trying to be quiet, but banging the bags and stuff against everything, sometimes I think it better, not to try and be quiet. Good thing we woke the guy up as he filled the water bottles up with nice fresh cold water.

Off we start on route 188 for the first 40 odd miles, then onto route 7 at Junin, may have a slight problem on the route 7 as it maybe a toll road, hey ho we will soon find out.

Bit of a cloudy day as the sun started to break through you could see storm clouds brewing and fork lighting crashing down, quite lairy was we cycled towards the storm. We soon put an end to the storm, as we stopped and put the light water proof jackets on and cover the front valuable bag with a water proof covering, always seems to work as the storm petered out, just left loads of standing water on the road. Once again the wind is a big factor, head on, nothing we can do about, just carry on riding, only a relatively short ride today 72 miles with a few places to stop along the way, so should not be an issue.

Had the first stop just as we joined route 7 at Junin, all seemed ok on the toll road, big hard shoulder to ride on and could not see any tolls at all.

Pretty steady ride today, not breaking any records just keep the bike ticking over, with 30ish miles to go and two possible places to stop, all looking good, had another break caught up with the rugby game, them moved on to the second stop. Not sure how we do it, but the place looked like it had not been used for a few years, peered through the window, few dusty fridges and a counter, then a little sign that read “tocar el timbre para el asistente” ring the bell for attendant, rang the bell, then out of nowhere appeared Handicaps missus with a fag hangout of her mouth, we managed to get a cold drink from her, but could not understand a thing she said bless her, she never stopped talking, as we only had about 10 miles to go, I gingerly asked if she had a beer, low and behold up popped a couple of cold dusty cans and another blast of words, I think she was saying if the Police come we did not sell you the beer, but not sure, all in all a good fun stop.

Just a short hop to Chacabuco, Bingo had booked an AirBB (Sandra thinks we are living the posh life, says someone who complains when we ride to Deal!), just on the outskirts of town you could smell the BBQ’s on the side of the road, Bingo called the stop, rightly so had lunch, great chat with a couple of locals and a bonus for the Editor a freight train [General Motors EMD G22WC locomotive made between ’72-’90: Ed] crossing the busy road into Town, Bingo took the photos, allegedly 65 carriages long, so no animal spotting today train spotting, forgot to get it’s number though [9477: Ed].

One of the locals came over after I have spoken to him at the bar, he is coming over to the UK in April for a professional boxing bout in Cambridge 70 Kilo weight I believe Nico Falabbla, he has started to follow us on Instagram, so watch out for him. The another guy came over heard us speaking English, him and his wife were from Pennsylvania, moved down to Chacabuco about four years ago, seemed a nice guy, wished us luck on our travels. Finally off to the AirBB,, funnily enough we nearly got caught behind the freight train as the thing was going slower than us, barrier came down, but plenty of time so us and a few cars went around them.

All good on the digs guy was waiting for us as we came down the street, all booked in no dramas, but failed on the shopping front, most shops closed, so nearly got lost, did not pin drop my starting point, school boy error, Bingo got it all sorted easily, think I was a bit tired.

Day 27 Monday 10th February 2025 Chacabuco to San Andres de Giles

Quite night in last night, Bingo did both jobs last night shopping and cooking, as I failed miserably to find any shops open, but all good in the end, got some food a few beers, lovely meal as well.

Did spend my time wisely, wrote the blog, then sorted out a route up to La Paz via Iguazú Falls (spelt Iguaçú in Portuguese Brazil), so all being well Rylan will join us for a little ride from La Paz to Lima, in late March.

Todays ride pretty short 65 miles, with a head wind forecast all day, same old routine, but natural yogurt infused alpen this morning, I did wonder why we did not have the grapes, that was on the table, Bingo just smiled and said try one, they were plastic!

I love Mondays when your not working, though every day is a working day for us, but in a nice way, it’s what we want to do. Nice little ride out of Chacabuco, just us and the working lads on the road, gentle wave, to the pick-ups as they go past full of the workers ready for another weeks work. Once we get out on the open road, we realise how strong the wind is, but its easy when you think them lads are just going to work, I am going on an adventure, anything could happen. That kept me going for the first couple of hours slogging it in to the wind, but the road was good with a big hard shoulder to ride on, with a few rumble strips to keep you occupied, to be honest I think I hit more than I missed, keeps me alert (what is a lert) an old joke from back in the day, (“Be Alert Britain needs lerts”).

Just as we were coming up to a little village Tres Sargentos, I said there maybe a petrol station on the right, sure enough there used to be one, but it definitely closed a while back, short little discussion, decided to go into the village see if we could get a cold drink and ice-cream. Just as we were on the little road into the village I spotted a snake on the side of the road, Bingo full on it down on the floor videoing as it raised its little head to defend its space, then as fast as lighting sped off, (Patagonian Green Racer (Philodryas patagoniensis)) slightly venomous. We ended on the village green under the shade of a willow tree, enjoying the ambiance of this tranquil village, with a cold drink and ice-cream very poetic and nice stop to boot. That soon stopped as Bingo stood up and said lets go or vamos in the correct parlance. Off we went with a bit of curiosity as further down the street was an old sign for the railway station long since gone, another bit of research for our long suffering editor. [I’m guessing this was Carmen de Areco: the railway closed in 1998: Ed]

Quite nice having a few miles off the national route 7 as we navigated a way to join it further down the road, one rule, never go backwards in rugby or cycling! eventually we joined back up with it and carried on our merry way.

Only 32 miles to go, just kept up a steady pace, with the wind ever present, quite good we could ride two abreast on the hard should, provided you kept a look out for the rumble strips. We knew we had another petrol station around 16 miles, from the last stop, I was away with the fairies as Bingo sped up, you not stopping then? bit oblivious to the massive signs, yer sure I shouted as he pulled off, managed to just about join him, just giggled and said I was in a zone mate, not sure which one though.

Not sure what happened in the petrol station only had a cold drink (not beer) and a coffee, but when we came back out, the wind had changed, was right behind us now, here we go superstars lets rock, smashed the last 20 miles in just over an hour, with ease. Not so good for the hotel booking as we got here a tadge too early, bit of fluffing around, spot of lunch then all sorted. Guy in the hostel bit of a character think we may attract them some how, will stay in my head most of what he said, not even political correct for me, that does say something.

Nice relaxing afternoon and a night off for Bingo cooking wise, only a few more days left in Argentina, will be singing either one of these, as we go over the “Río de la Plata” River Plate, “the silver river”. [the river Plate is in fact the estuary between the Paraná and the Uruguay rivers – they’ll cross the Paraná river now, probably twice as it’s a delta here, and the Uruguay river later: Ed]

Buenos días Argentina
What a lovely sight you are
Can’t help wavin’ my sombrero
For the joy that’s in my heart

Or …

Don’t cry for me, Argentina
The truth is, I never left you
All through my wild days, my mad existence
I kept my promise
Don’t keep your distance

Not sure yet, think I prefer the 1st one maybe I should have a poll?

Patagonian Green Racer (Philodryas patagoniensis)

Day 28 Tuesday 11th February 2025 San Andres de Giles to Ciebas

Not one of the best meals last night in down town San Andres de Giles, ended up in the same fast food restaurant we had lunch in, once again we are the only patrons, but we got good service and I managed to get a veggie burger after a little bit of charm, it always works. Then back to the digs, for an early night again, we have no trouble sleeping like a log every night, few power cuts last night, the generator kicked in which was right outside the room, still no trouble sleeping, woke up in the morning Bingo said did you hear the storm, no mate heard the gennie start then straight back to sleep. Bingo’s list of jobs is getting longer, official weatherman now, as he predicts storms all day.

No chocolate in the porridge this morning, Bingo too busy checking the weather apps, but all ready to go just after 6, bit of a kerfuffle getting out of town and finding the route up to Sollis, only a small road, both of us not sure if it would be tarmacked, but it was only 12 miles, so should not be a problem, all good it was tarmacked and quiet, and no sign of the storms, Bingo could be the next “John Fish”, great riding then noticed little brown furry animals on the side of the road, thought they was rats at first, but even I could see they had no tails, turns out to be Cavia aperea (Argentinian Guinea Pig), good spot.

Soon passed the little town of Sollis, then join on to a bigger road route 193, still not too busy, just enjoying the ride, then think to myself, it should be getting a bit warmer now, the dark clouds are amassing, only one thing to do start singing “Riders on the Storm” that will get us through it, next thing we know pulled over rain jackets on and proper riding in a bloody storm now. Bingo just smiled and said I told you, as the rain was pelting down. Next up is a far bigger City Zarate, great big roundabouts and intersections all over the place, could not see a thing, but had a bright yellow jacket on, so just hoped all the drivers could see me, as we navigated around the periphery of the city, pretty hair raising to say the least, but the drivers all seemed very courteous giving us plenty of space, just as we left the city or so we thought stopped for a coffee to sort out the nerves.

Got going again not nice when its still pouring down with rain but hey ho John (B**) Fish reckons it will stop at 2, great news. Then we have a massive bridge to cross over the Paraná River [this is the Zárate–Brazo Largo Bridge, in fact two bridges over the Parana de las Palmas and Parana Guazú rivers – it’s also a railway bridge: Ed], no hard shoulder and the armco barrier looks like its been hit a few times, just pedal and get on with it, though it was pretty leary, well frightening. Eventually get over the bridge and on to the hard shoulder, least we can relax then and enjoy the ride, just after the bridge we stop at a road side shack for a drink and a bit of respite from the rain. Huddled under a awning watching the world go by, I notice this animal skipping across the unmade road, turn to Bingo, whats that, mate faster than the snake yesterday he is onto it following its every foot steps, notice a few other people taking photographs, then the owner comes out of the shack and casually picks it up, it was a semi tame Nutria / Coypu, quite cool though.

Checked the time still only 12, so had another two hours of rain, of we went, good thing the storm was blowing us forward now, so we go onwards and upwards, not sure how long I can keep the riders on the storm thing going but giving it a good go. The scenery has changed now, very green with lots of small rivers and lakes around, all rather pleasant, as the speed through the countryside, quite a lot of road side shacks selling food, stop for lunch, Bingo spots a guy cooking home made sausages and chops on a BBQ, nice lunch stop he has the BBQ, I have salad and chips, all good. Fueled with a beer or two and the rain stopping we soon done the remaining 14 or so miles, all in all not to bad a day in the saddle, considering the weather, pulled up outside the Hotel Ceibas, the lovely host was there to meet and greet us, spoke impeccable English and a fridge full of cold beer, what could possible go wrong, sorted out the room and an evening meal, as Bingo has a few weather reports to produce.

Then sort out a few days riding into Uruguay.

**Nutria** or **Coypu** (**Myocastor coypus**)

Brazilian guinea pig (Cavia aperea)

Day 29 Wednesday 12th February 2025 Ciebas to Fray Bentos, Uruguay

Plenty of wild life around the digs last night, loads of them Argentinian Guinea Pigs and some cool birds (get the name). On the downside also loads of mosquitoes, first time we have noticed them. Had a meal in the complex, unfortunately we have make do with small portions sometimes, we was both starving, I not think people realise how many calories we actually consume and the beer doesn’t replenish all the energy.

Not a great start to the morning, after breakfast started to load the bikes up, Bingo had a flat back tyre, no big deal sorted that out and on our way just after 6 , in damp drizzly weather.
Heading for Gualeguaychu around 40 miles away, need to get Bingo a new tyre there then decide if we are going to head over the border to Fray Bentos, yes the corned beef place.

Made it to Gualeeguaychu , just before 10, pretty busy town, roads not great and chucking it down with rain! We had a few bikes shops tagged on google maps, finally found one with a half decent tyre, good job as Bingo had another flat. Changed the tyre just outside the bike shop. Then asked the guy if we could cycle over the Bridge to Fray Bentos, with the help of his partner via FaceTime, she said no bikes allowed, but you will be able to get a lift with your bikes, loads of people do it.

So we decided to do the extra 30 miles to Fray Bentos, plan to get out of town, bite to eat then pedal to the bridge / border. Stop in a petrol station for a bite to eat, as the rain keeps pouring down, both think we are putting off the inevitable, as we nurse a cup of coffee and cheese toasty, talking to a couple of interesting drivers, one guy from San Paulo said he would contact us via instagram re places to stay in Brazil happy days.

Off we set again, still raining and the road rutted with pot holes and loads of surface water, arduous conditions. Bingo got another flat not great on a new tyre , but it goes like that sometimes. Fixed the puncture. Just a few miles to the freight clearance yard for goods heading to Uruguay, it was chaos not even organised chaos, went to the control, directed us to an office over the road. They just said no bikes, but we could get a lift?

Easier said than done, with two massive touring bikes and all the bags . Thought we had a pick up truck stop for us, rushed over, but he was just dropping off some stuff.

Then a HGV driver offered us a lift, if we could get the bikes and stuff on the back of his truck, done that in no time at all . We just have to wait for his clearance paperwork, he said 20 minutes! Well that’s Uruguay time, fair play to the guy he was trying to get his clearance papers ( just like the old freight clearance stuff in Dover years ago and probably coming back)
About 2 1/2 hours later the driver came bouncing back, raminos , raminos, let’s get going . On our way but thanks to the driver true legend. Sped over the bridge can see why they don’t let cyclists it’s really narrow single lane and bumpy , but all good we got through with a bit of grit and determination.

Now it’s the customs, always bits of paper and stamps, this time a little smile and wave with viajes seguros – (safe travels) and on your way.

Little skip into Fray Bentos the corn beef capital of the world back in the day and on pre-booked digs, two very wet cyclist, nice shower and wash the gear again, then off for our first taste of Uruguarian food, just the same but very nice.

Day 30 Thursday 13th February 2025 Fray Bentos, Uruguay

Two very tired wet lads arrived at Fray Bentos hotel last night, the lovely girl at the reception just looked at us, what are you doing, sorted the room out out and got the normal few beers in. Both of us “Hank Marvin” we need to eat, ast if the hotel restaurant was open ” lo siento mi amigo” sorry my friend no!

We soon found the nearest one, bless the really nice receptionist she wanted us to go down my the river side (we did that the next day very nice), we went to the first place that was open food, glorious food we needed it.

All fed and watered it was back to bed, with a little bit of a plan, sort the bikes out in the morning, they need a bit of love and attention. Then ride in the afternoon.

Lovely lie in in the morning, still knocking on the door for the breakfast bar to open at 7, nice to have a massive breakfast and take your time, just what we needed. I had sorted out a garden hose to wash the bikes down, Bingo was fixing all his inner tube, walked the bikes around to the room, luckily ground floor room so nice for the neighbours to watch a couple of skilled bike mechanics, thoughtfully overhauling their trusted steeds.

Bingo’s bike seemed fine with all the inner tubes repaired and tested all good, mine was not so good, rear wheel bearing grinding sounded horrible, we tried to undo the bearing nuts with the limited tools we had, no joy. The I noticed my bottom bracket was loose, not good!

Bit of a change of plan, search for bike shops, found a few in town, getting used to this now, none of them will open till 10, so no need to rush it was still only early. Off we go in search of the afore mentioned bike shops, my bike sounding like it going to give up the ghost at any moment.

We finally found the bike shop we had on goggle maps, but directly opposite there was another shop that looked like they could fix anything, I wheeled my poorly steed over to a delightful fellow, showed him the problem, he just smiled and said ” Nosotros podemos arreglar eso” we can fix that, when today in broken Spanish, “seguro que vuelves a las 7 pm” sure come back at 7!

Bit relieved to say the least but still apprehensive, Bingo still on his bike so he rides back to the digs, I walk back, being ever diligent not to go into the numerous bars cafes, made it back safely and sober, how good is that.

Have to stay an extra night now, sorted that out, then straight down to the world heritage site “Fray Bentos” pie factory, bit like a cross between Culrose Meat factory and Barfrestone Pie Factory, sorry for the non-Aylesham guys reading this bit of local gods country information, not really relevant.

Had a great afternoon around the impressive site, and met some wonderful people, one young German girl, was so keen on our travels, gleaning us for loads of information, as her and her boyfriend are planning on traveling across the USA, in the summer, happy to give her all the advice we could.

Well it came to the time to walk up to the bike shop, was so pleased as I walked into the shop, massive smile, made me feel so much better. Met the young guy who sorted out the bike all hand shakes and smiles, few selfies, then asked how much “Cuata” 300 peso, about £5, gave him a tip to make it up to £6, he was well pleased. Not so happy with the football score as all of them was watching Uruguay v Paraguay, they were losing 0-1. wished them luck with the game and they wished us viajes seguros.

Great felt so much better, nice meal then bed, back on the bikes tomorrow, mañana

Day 31 Friday 14th February 2025 Fray Bentos to Paysandú

My apologies I got the date wrong for Charlie Broadhurst’s funeral – it’s today. Condolences to all of Charlie’s family, great Aylesham sportsman, he will be missed at the Home of SCWRFC Spinney Lane Stadium.

We left the ex-capital of corn beef and Fray Bentos pies, following the river up to a place called Paysandú.

Bit convoluted getting out of the city, but finally on the open roads with the warm sun breaking through, heading towards Neuvo Berlin, we did not go into the small town. Pushed on through -not too many cars, but loads of trucks heading towards Fray Bentos carrying eucalyptus logs, apparently a massive pulp mill there

Not sure what was on this road in the way of food stops, plus there seemed to be a 10 mile section of no tarmac according to Ride with GPS and Google maps. Just kept going, just after 10 said to Bingo going to need a stop soon, he reckons there is a junction about 2 miles up the road, may have petrol station / shop who knows, but worth the wait. Came up to the junction as normal a police cabin, they always give us a false sense, think you can get an ice cream, coffee no chance, but sure enough over the road a petrol station. coffees and ice creams all around, though I needed the assistance on the coffee machine far to complicated for a weary cyclist.

Two other guys came in, got chatting to them, one was an American the other a Brazilian selling industrial chiller units, we didn’t buy any. By all accounts both keen cyclists Greg the American done a bit down Ushuaia many moons ago. Both following us on Instagram now, good stuff .

Nice break good chat sets up for the next section fueled by ice cream, what could be better. Just took our time as it was getting very hot and clammy. Couple miles out another petrol station little stop, mainly to sort some digs out for the night, first try no luck they would only let us book the place for 2 nights. Next on Bingo gets a hotel, good stuff do a little jiggle on the maps and off we go into Paysandú, take the dodgy back way into, no issues as we rumble up to the hotel, book in and more importantly get a few beers. Then out shopping for tomorrows camping experience and a bite to eat, once again nothing opens till 8, just as us two old guys are ready for bed.

The nest of an Ovenbird, Rufous Hornero (*Furnarius rufus*), the national bird of Argentina

Day 32 Saturday 15th February 2025 Paysandú to Cerro de la Glorieta

Just as we got back to the digs last night, it started to rain, no worries surely it can’t rain all night. Sure enough it did, thunder and lightning wind howling not a good omen for the morning.

Woke up at the crack of dawn, trying to be positive looks like it’s died down a bit, Bingo just gave me a stern look.

Even the girls on the reception desk, looked at us in horror as we loaded up the bikes. Nice touch on the front desk big bowl of sweets, wasn’t so big by the time we left.

Fair play it was only spitting with rain as we left, we may be lucky, within ten minutes that changed, full blown storm now, nice show of fork lightening across the darkened sky. Would have been great if we wasn’t riding in it.

Nothing we could do just keep peddling and hope it blows over. Well to be truthfully honest it was wet and miserable, just thinking about camping gave me goose pimples. Had our first stop on the side of the road even a packet of biscuits could not cheer us up.

It’s better just riding, at least you do not get cold then, so on we went, tearing up the miles. Thankfully the thunderstorm passed over us, but the rain did not ease up.

Spotted a little shop on the side of the road “Rosie’s “ little oasis, celebrated with another packet of biscuits and a soft drink sitting out on the veranda.

Got going again after catching up with the Rugby result, good lads SCWRFC won a tight top of the table clash with Edenbridge, great stuff.

Pushed on again in light drizzle, Bingo spots a hairy spider on the road, next thing there’s a few of them, off he goes into David Attenborough mode laying on the floor hand next to the spider “you need to get a perspective in the picture “ not for me.

Head on to a very small village El Eucaliptus, found a little shop, not like Arkrights though, next to nothing on the shelves, but nice family, had a chat via google translate on what on earth we was doing there, the guy even made us a couple of cheese rolls, not the best, but it’s the thought that counts. Said our goodbyes and cycled away.

Now in camping mode looking for places off the road , were we can’t be seen. An hour or 2 down the road, Bingo say what about over there, a cluster of abandoned farm buildings, lift the bikes over the locked gate and go around the back. Place had not been used for ages, seems like as good as place as any.

Within 15 minutes tents up dinner on the go, living the dream. Finished dinner just having a cup of coffee no beer tonight I am afraid.

Could hear a motorbike getting closer, sure enough, the cattle rancher turns up, massive smile, chatting away, seems he was as mad as us. Has no qualms about us staying here, offer him a cup of coffee politely says no, he’s going to have a beer later, lucky guy. Warns us there is a storm coming in later, another one, then leaves us to it. Bingo has increased his bird count as all sorts start to defend on abandoned buildings for the night.

Well earned early night, over 80 miles, in some atrocious weather.

Week 05 Into the Pampas

Day 19 Sunday 2nd February 2025 San Antonio Oeste to General Conesa

Bit of a bad night with the VPN and watching the rugby, worked fine on Friday, but today no go, I could watch a load of crap on live ITV, but it would not let me watch “catch up”, so had to settle for the write up, least said about the result the better. Think we need some young guns out here to sort out the IT issues.

Another 40 odd lengths in the family pool this time, set us up for a big evening meal, all changed and washed, I had a shave as it was a Saturday night, Bingo still going for the New Age traveller look (that’s a blast from the past) I was more looking for the disco dancing. Walked up to the restaurant, closed, bit of a theme going on here, a guy told us we could get a take away order from reception, we went over but did not know what we wanted, so decided to bike to the little place down the road, only a mile or so, past a pack of wild dogs, what could possible go wrong, nothing. Had a wonderful meal served by a little princess who spoilt us rotten, just think what would have happened if we had did have the young guns with us, would have been dancing all night.

Same old routine in the morning quartermaster Bingo serving up the porridge and chocolate and off pedalling just after 6, gorgeous sunrise breaking over the horizon as we said our goodbyes to the Atlantic Ocean, bit crazy to think but the next bit of sea we see will be the Pacific Ocean, that got me thinking with my little mind going over all the possible routes we can take, need to rein back a bit, take it easy. Rylan has given us a few option to ponder over, as he is planning on joining us somewhere for a 1000 mile ride, either in La Paz Boliva to Lima Peru: Lima Peru to Quito Ecuador or Quito Ecuador to Medellin Colombia, we will give it a week or so and sort out a time frame.

Bingo ever efficient on the animal trekking spotted a family of Patagonian Mara, trotting majestically across a dried out salt lake (not quite what John Cleese said in Fawlty Towers, but good enough for me), then a bit of a contentious issue, I am not sure he can claim an animal spot, when it was clearly dead, like the parrot in the afore mentioned John Cleese sketch, flat as a pancake. The discussion went on for about 10 miles, Bingo saying it was still warm so it does count, not having any of it, will send to the Ed for arbitration [It counts: Ed].

Good ride to day, but as we have crossed into a new state the road has slightly changed, still good, but has a rumble strip on the edge of the road now, least it keeps you awake, all in all the drivers have been very good to us, with very few issues so far.

As we rode into General Conesa we stopped for the customary cold drink and ice-cream, before we headed to a hotel that was on the road out of Town, bit of forward planning as we have a big ride in the morning.

Another theme we have is that every time we try and book a place its either a flat no, or more often than not it’s a big hug and welcome by crazy Argentina ladies, this one was the latter, mad as a March hare, or in these parts Mad as a Patagonian Mara, she showed me to the chalet, then could not get the door open, I had a go, got in first time, she them gave me the biggest cuddle in living memory, fair play she did not say anything about me smelling of fish, so the hygiene must be working now.

Nice restful afternoon planning the next couple of day.

**Patagonian Mara** (**Dolichotis patagonum**)

**Humboldt’s hog-nosed skunk** (**Conepatus humboldtii**)

Day 20 Monday 3rd February 2025 General Conesa to Rio Colorado

With a relatively easy day days cycling only 56 miles – walk in the park, all the digs sorted, had a bite to eat in the restaurant over the road recommended by the crazy Argentinian lady, but with a word of warning we have to eat at her place tonight, fair does we wonder off in search of food or in my case beer. Nice little place all authentic food, Bingo has steak and chips, I have the vegetarian equivalent egg and chips with a tomato salad, all good we need to eat.

Now the plan is to get some provisions for tomorrows ride, bit of a long one so may need to camp!, bearing in mind its a Sunday and this sleepy little town “General Conesa not showing any life, we walk into town. First thing we hear is a big band playing, straight away I say its a football game, any we trek down to the supermarket, but it was closed until 16:30, great, find a bar and wait, that’s my thoughts, Bingo had a different plan much to my dismay. Carry on down here we will find a shop open, we did find “Arkwrights” open all hours shop, not sure they knew what was going on but they seemed pleased with the custom.

Then the walk home obviously a different way, went passed the little football ground, Bingo knew I wanted to go in and have look, he just looked at me sternly, which means behave in the House parlance, I was so tired i actually behaved, just a little local game played on a dust bowl, to be perfectly honest the band was better than the game.

We set off in the morning both feeling a bit dubious if we could do the 90 odd miles to the next town, but with pure bravado we cracked on in the morning glow from the sun rising over our shoulders. Not a lot said just get on with the riding, which seemed pretty good as we eat up the miles in the cool morning, before the sun breaks through.

Going great guns nice temperature not too much of a wind and a nice road, just before the four hour mark we spot a building in the left, with a part of a sign, “shall we give it a go Bingo chirps up” sure, so we ride the “Ripo” to the entrance, obviously the door is locked but hey ho a dog is barking, charming old lady answers the door, honestly she invites us in, but I have not got a “Scooby Doo” what she is saying, its not Spanish as I know it said Spock, not sure where I am going here, but we managed to get a cold Pepsi, could have had a beer, but a tadge too early for us athletes, think this place “Black Catted the last place not been open since the Forties if I was a detective, nice little stop though, as we sped off.

Just eating up the miles, not much to see the odd flock of Parakeets and a few cows and horses mainly next to some homesteads miles away from any civilisation, making good time as we pressed ahead. Just as we turned to head for Río Colorado, we met another couple of cycle travellers heading towards us, stopped for the obligatory welcome and the broken Spanish of where are you going and where are you heading, nice little chat, they had a lot of tripods and telescopes on board, heading for the clear skies of Ushuaia, nice work. Said “bon Voyage” wrong language, but “Glen” you know who I mean he seems to get a way with it.

Rolled into the outskirts of Río Colorado, Bingo mentioned a stop at a YPS petrol station just before the town, I pointed to a place on the left, no Ice-Creams but had beer how good is that. Just a little mile into Town sorted the digs out, this time a bloke who just gave me a beer, think the jungle drums are rumbling, great day 90 odd miles, with a smile and a giggle.

Day 21 Tuesday 4th February 2025 from Rio Colorado to Perú, La Pampa, Argentina

Not so good on the food front yesterday, not a very big town Rio Colorodo, none of the restaurants opened till 8, so we decided just to grab some stuff from the local petrol station. After we had walked up and down the street a few times, also managed to get our water and stuff for tomorrow’s rides, once again it looks like it will be a long one.

Early night again need to rest these aching bodies, but up at the crack of dawn, all eager and ready, well maybe, as we silently eat our chocolate infusioned porridge, still trying to make it sound posh, really nice one today, banana and white chocolate peanuts, Bingo trying to lighten his load.

Off we go into the Pampas, still wind and the sun just breaking through, easy route today turn right after one mile, then turn left in 87 miles, nothing can go wrong, well almost missed the first turning, but all good in the end as we navigated onto National Route 54. The surface was a bit bumpy, for the first 20 odd miles, after that looked like it had been resurfaced recently so all good, very little traffic, drivers giving us plenty of room, very courteous.

Not al lot to report today, just a very hard slog through the slightly changing environment, but still very sparse, actually seen a few cows and horses in the Pampas, but few and far between. Bingo has taken up insect spotting now, after noticing loads of giant grasshopper things on the road, he actually stopped and filmed them mating, breaking my neck trying to think of a song only thing I could think of was “I dont like Spiders and Snakes, but that aint what it takes” or the Doors classic “Celebration of the Lizard” not really an insect but who cares, as I blasted out the songs.

Well that was it 95 miles done watched a few insects and ants and pedalled all day, last couple miles we stood on the junction, water bottles in hand, managed to get some fresh water, it tastes so much better than the hot water we carry. Then rode the last 8 or so miles, not sure if the Hotel would actually be there! Sure enough as we turned the corner I called out your name (another song) the hotel was there in all its splendid glory, sorted out the rooms and a late lunch what a result 95 tough tough miles.

**Southern Monarch** (**Danaus erippus**)

Unknown beetle

Day 22 Wednesday 5th February 2025 from Perú, La Pampa to Santa Rosa

Wednesday 5th February 2025

Was both pretty tired yesterday, we went to the restaurant early hoping they would be ok for a 7 O/Clock start, no we had to wait for the normal 8 O/Clock start, we crept in there about 15 mins to early but all was good. The waitress and the manager were so good fussing about us like we were some kind of superstars, even go their daughter to face time us so we got the order correct. To be perfectly honest we just wanted to eat then go straight to bed, which we nearly did, Bingo went back to the room, I paid the bill, signed the visitors book and only just got away with not having a “Tango” sure they were a bit disappointed, I can hardly lift my feet off the floor never mind dance the “Tango” so back to the room for an early night.

Up at the crack of dawn, still pitch black out side as we get the kit together and have a bite to eat, Bingo has now taken responsibility for weather updates, apparently we have a thunderstorm coming in at 07:00, best get going now then. As we creeped outside it was to dark to set off, so back in the room and have a nervous coffee, well half of one. Come on lets get going just as the light improved, we set off with an overcast sky and the hint of rain, that never really materialised at first. Same old routine get the early miles done whiles its cooler and less traffic on the room, we stopped early because there was a petrol station, the are few an far between, so made the most of the opportunity. Then carried on still the hint of rain but nothing coming down yet, then Bingo said big clouds building up behind us, then sure enough the heavens opened. It did come down, we pulled off the road and stood under some trees for 5 minutes, but started to get cold, so decided to make a dah to the next Town was only about 7 miles away. The storm was right behind us pushing us along, soon entered the little town Atavila Roca, both of us had got used to the rain now so sped through it full steam ahead. Eventually the rain stopped, which was a welcome as I had taken of my glasses, could not see a thing just the water coming down like stair rods, felt a bit better when normal vision was resumed. We just kept on going and going till Santa Rosa came into view, the plan was to stop for a bite to eat before finding the Hotel, that did not happen, just rolled into the hotel, looking like two sodden cats, all sorted in no time at all and lunch in the Hotel restaurant, before we showered and changed, as it closed at 2 O/ Clock.

All showered and ready to hit the town, well walk down and see if we can get some cash, as we spent most of it yesterday, as they did not take credit cards!

Day 23 Thursday 6th February 2025 Santa Rosa to General Pico

Still not getting used to this 8pm opening time for the restaurants, even later last night, not till 8:30, I nearly fell asleep in my pasta!, just managed to pay the bill and get up to bed and rest these little legs

Not everyones cup of tea, but it’s mine so a little respect for “The Munich Air disaster”, one great Team and always will be, just little dates that stick in my head.

Left room the after the delights of porridge and vanilla yogurt no chocolate, must have said something last night, think it was the thought of lugging the baggage down about 400 yards through a maze of corridors, thrown the quartermaster / chef off track. Just ready to ride off and the ever observant check in guy wanted a few details, I duly obliged with a made up passport number and address, he seemed happy so all good, I did not want to be rude, but all the gear was packed, so all’s well that ends well.

Off we go, into the silent, slightly, misty fresh morning, now I am getting into poems! something to think about, as we follow the road out of town. The mist get a bit heavier, with the sun not burning it down, makes for a quite leary first 20 odd miles, lucky the road was not that busy. But still glad to turn off, onto a quite flat road, not sure of the road number, but it’s tarmacked, and not foggy, so all good. We are on this most of the day, so just get into the rhythm and push along. The only poems I know are something about If (Kipling I believe) and a load of daffodils (Wordsworth), so spend my time pedalling thinking sure I can come up with some smart words to describe the scenery, as we ride through the countryside, with fields of sunflowers constantly next to long flat road, with patches of cattle grazing and looking at the brightly coloured cyclist riding through, thinking what are they doing.

Enough of the fancy words, put that in the same bracket as shopping not my forte, so we just ride the long straight road, singing a bit occasional chat about the wildlife, mainly birds as they flutter out of the hedgerows or swoop over us, Bingo always on the lookout for new finds.

Finely come to the junction with circa 20 ish to go, both need a rest, but weary of going too much off course, settled for the coach station in the little village of Metileo, they had ice creams and a cold drink, all good for the moment. Then went in with the toasty order, the lovely girl said afraid not, none left, so had a packet of crisps and a beer, now that is a song! ” Two packets of crisps and a pint of lager”

Made the last 20 miles a walk in the park, as we knew we had a place to stay, a little AirBB just outside of General Pico, we soon found the place, Bingo, sorted the digs , I was dispatched to get some provisions, beer, it’s what I am good at, duly done.

Day 24 Friday 7th February 2025 from General Pico to General Villegas

Condolences for all Charlie Broadhurst’s family, total respect for a true Aylesham sportsman, will be thinking of you today.

It’s a sad note to start off, but it has to be said. Living the good life now, Bingo cooked supper, while I got merrily away with the fairies, said I was writing the blog, but was just drinking and putting a few mumbled words together – nothing changes.

Great nights sleep, woke up all ready to rumble, porridge, banana and honey with a cup of coffee, living the life of “Riley”, hit the road at first light. On paper not a bad ride today, but like Brian Clough once said, “We had a great team on paper, unfortunately the game was played on grass”. With us, we did not take in the head wind, just need to put some work in.

Tough start just grinding out the miles before the sun blazes through, always a good time to spot the animals and creepy crawlies (they seemed to be getting bigger and more frequent), first spot a squashed armadillo, same discussion – he is not claiming it. Then he spots a live one trotting (not sure if that’s what they do more like lurching) jumps off his bike forward roll into camera mode, but sadly he missed the shot. Next up I point to a curly thing in the road, turns out to be a snake having a sunbathe in the early morning sun, Bingo is onto it like David Attenborough, nose to the ground, camera poised, me, I just cycle away, might end up in hospital with a poxy wasp sting, so not sure my epi-pen would be any good for a snake bite! Bingo catches up said it was definitely alive, I know I seen its head move, thats why I carried on. Then unbelievable Mr Magoo actually spots another armadillo lurching across the countryside, we both have a good look, quite like how quirky they are.

I finally work out why my Garmin (GPS thing) not working correctly, must have had one extra beer last night, as I have loaded the wrong map up, no worries Bingo says, just another 10 miles on this road, then turn left, even you should be able to do that. On we went just like climbing all day, but doable, stopped for a little break under some shade, had an apple each, half a chocolate wagon wheel, I am not allowed a full one as they make me hyper-active (thought I could do with it, but Bingo is very strict), few boiled sweets also rationed. Off we set again, within no time we reach the junction, on the other side of the road a guy is waving us at like mad, so we both go over, he has loads of cold water, ice and the biggest bunch of bananas you could imagine, turns out he passed us a few miles down the road, then sped off to get us some supplies top bloke, while we was there a lorry driver pulled over loved the bikes, showed us pictures of his bike, great stop. Once again humanity is still alive and kicking, there are so many nice people in this little world, makes it all worthwhile talking and engaging with great people.

Last 30 odd mile to be honest it was a hard slog, done it in three stages, resting and eating peanuts at every opportunity, temperature in the mid to upper 30C, think its Celuis * 1.8 + 32 for Fahrenheit, thats for my lovely sister, lot older than me so always works in Fahrenheit or the truth of the matter still a lot older than me, but lived in America for the last 40 or so years, looking forward to seeing you Deb, sometime in June/July.

Basically thats how I get through the tough times, either sing or try and work out some daft equations, finally could see the little town in the horizon, little discussion fancy a drink or straight to the AirBB, went straight to the digs, both a little tired to say the least. Bingo navigated straight to the place, called them up, they were there within 5 min. Once again lovely couple could not do enough for us, even took me shopping, not sure I like this responsibility, but did myself proud again only a bit of chocolate, loads of beer and some stuff to cook tonight, getting right into this now.

Bit of time to sort out the next few days riding.

Culebra de Peñarol (Erythrolamprus poecilogyrus)

Day 25 Saturday 8th February 2025 General Villegas to Lincoln

Another splendid meal prepared by Bingo last night, hard luck for him I am the shopping master now, so unless explicitly told its “sin carne” meat free, pretty good with the beer, chocolate, pastas, vegetables and sauces now, fair play I did look at the chorizo, sadly did not have a clue, if its not on the list I don’t get it.

Great place last night, very airy and cool both of us slept like superstars, up at the crack of dawn, breakfast made as I walk into the spacious kitchen, we are living the high life, cold porridge, banana, chocolate and sweet coffee.

Off we go to the magical city of Lincoln, already thinking of a nice beer in the “Dambuster Inn” not sure this Lincoln Provincia de Buenos Aires has a Dambusters Inn, but it will have a Pub, where we will toast the best landlord in living memory Steve Plews, thanks for your support mate we really appreciate it, pour me a Timothy Taylors Landlord please.

It really helps with my mind thinking, about a load of old codswallop, as we cycle through the Pampas, not much in the way of animals today, a muster of storks being elegant in a semi dried out salt lake, couple of live snakes swithering on the side of the road, bit of a debate on the size of the biggest one, four feet long, if that the case i am a 6 foot tall Greek god! Still a finely tuned athlete at 5`6 and a bit.

Met the strangest guy on a bike, trailer and two dogs coming in the opposite direction, obviously we stopped, had a little chat in broken Spanish, from what I can make out he cycles this road quite often, up and down, really refreshing to meet people who are just as mad as us two. His dogs were amazing just waited patiently on the side of the road as we tried to have to have a conversation, wished each over a “viaje seguro hacia adelante” (safe onward journey)

Quite tough going in the morning session, even had a discussion about camping, just before Lincoln, mate my mind was racing then no pub what we going to do for hydration. What with a thunderstorm closing in and a few lucky petrol stations, not highlighted on the GPS, we seemed to get over the slight depression of not making it to the “Dambusters Inn”

On we went my mind only thinking of Steve Plews casually handing over a pint of “Landlords” famous ale, I may have to do with a cold “Brahma” instead. With the help of the chocolate infused stops and a quick call to Baden Powell (needed am update on the Snowdown CWRFC score) they thrashed Tonbridge in a top of the table clash, mate that made the last 20 miles zoom by.

Well we hit Lincoln, no sign of either the “Dambusters Inn, or the Lincoln green, but seemed a nice pleasant city, no idea why its called Lincoln though, will let my ever diligent editor sort that one out [the city was founded in 1865 and named after the recently assassinated President of the USA Abraham Lincoln: Ed]. Glided into the Hotel California, sorry its not called that its the Hotel Impala, but was singing the old classic as we navigated through the streets, least there was not the climb up to to the cathedral, as there is in the green and pleasant UK Lincoln.

Few cold “Brahma” sort out the next few days rides and try and make a rendezvous with Rylan, my son who is coming out to join us for a few weeks in late March, exciting times.

A reminder of our Charity – Slide Away

Many of you have asked how you can donate to our charity Slide Away. The simplest way is to go to our Just Giving page.

And we have the QR code as well …

Once again a big thank you to you all.

Week 04 More Patagonia

Part 01 – the first 10 days cycling – 680 miles in 65hrs riding

So far the boys are about halfway through cycling Patagonia. By the end of this week they should be seeing a change of scenery as they leave the Pampas behind.

Day 12 Sunday 26th January 2025 Tres Cerros to Fitz Roy

Double header again today, mainly because I was too puffed out to write anything yesterday, I could have blamed the IT connection but that was fine it was me who was not working.

So same old story up at 5ish porridge and any sweet stuff Bingo will let me have, he is the quartermaster, today he put the wafer bars in the porridge, fair play they are sweet, but like a bit of cucumber I am sure you use up more energy eating it that you gain, but have to be thankful for small mercies.

On the road just before 6, then pedalled and pedalled, then believe or not carried on pedalling, there was a lovely sunrise as we left the garage, it is quite nice in the early morning, very little traffic, there is not much any way, just takes a little time to get the blood pumping around your body and it is surprisingly cold. Though we both made a school boy error as we filled the water bottles up in the room, Bingo has the first swig, he tells me it tastes like it comes out of the pond down by Misery farm, so we empty the bottles and do the normal thing beg for water at the side of the road, Bingo gets the first offer by a HGV driver who only looks 14, who gives us about a litre, I stop another camper van managed to fill all my bottles up and get an added blue lucozane still water drink, result. Then Bingo hails down another car and we manage to replenish all the bottles, as an added bonus the couple in the car, are planning on travelling to the UK in March, with a visit to Canterbury planned, how cool is that, Sandra does not know yet but she may have a guest!

All I can say really it was really tough going struggling to get over 10 mph at any time, just grinding out the miles, with the never ending road straight ahead. We battled these condition all day, with the last ten miles absolutely horrendous, barely making 6 mph, got stopped by a few guys who belong to a local cycling club, had the normal selfies and chat and struggled on.

Bingo secured the lodging as soon as the little town of Fitz Roy appeared, without hesitation the lady offered us a cold cerveza (beer) ended up having more than the one, may have been another reason why the blog was a little late.

Luckily the restaurant was less than a minute away, Bingo had the set meal meat, Llama stew I think, I had the biggest Tortilla in living memory, that’s lunch sorted tomorrow, then bed, two very tired guys.

Also a shout out to Geraint in Austin, Texas who is 13 today. Happy Birthday mate! We’ll get there eventually!

Day 13 Monday 27th January 2025 Fitz Roy to Caleta Olivia

Bit of a lie in this morning, did not wake till 5:45, it was a tough day yesterday, so decided to go a bit steady today, only a 50 mile section. Quartermaster Bingo dishes up the porridge with proper chocolate and a nice sweet coffee, living the life of Riley now, we can hear the wind outside so both nervously get the bikes sorted and roll off knowing that we are going to stop at the garage at the end of the town to fill up the water bottles and replenish the dwindling chocolate supplies.

We both knew it would be tough going, so just stuck to the guns and rode through it, searching the countryside for different animals, we spotted a family of giant guinea pigs,(maybe a Patagonian Mara, a mix between a rabbit and deer), seemed happy meandering around the scrub.

As we got over the top a little climb, took a rest by the side of the road, we then see a hamster scuttling along in the scrub land, its like an episodes of the Goodies now, anything to get my mind of the wind, so cheer myself up for a few minutes chuckling about that mad show.

Final down hill ride into Caleta Olivia, passed the oil fields with the nodding donkeys pumping away, they do look quite therapeutic, with their slow methodical action, had the leftover Tortilla watching the mechanical beasts doing their work

Just on the outskirts of the town stopped in a petrol station to take stock, had a beer and decided on the digs for the night. Little 2 mile ride through the town, first part on a steep ripo surface, not good. Sorted the digs, with ease. Done loads of washing, it will not take long to dry, in this wind and we can’t go out till our only set of clothes is dry!

Finished for the day, pretty hard going.

Day 14 Tuesday 28th January 2025 Fitz Roy to Comodoro Rivadavia

Another very windy morning, we could hear the wind rattling the windows all night long, not the best preparation for a tough day ahead. Breakfast in the room cold porridge and chocolate, we are all ready to hit the road at 5:45 in the morning, some holiday this is . Off we set with the sun rising over the Atlantic Ocean on right shoulder, trying my hardest to be poetic, but to be truthfully honest it was bloody hard graft . Slowly edging towards Comodoro Rivadavia, a lovely sounding name, but once again I spent more time muttering to myself about the wind, I can assure you there is no candle in this wind, would not stay alight and as for whistling in the wind no chance. Swearing at it did not help either, so it was all down to riding an hour at a time, taking a rest then repeat again and again. In some places it was getting pretty dangerous, the traffic doing its best to give us plenty of clearance but the more tired we got, the harder it was to keep the bikes going in a straight line.

Finally rolled into Comodoro Rivadavia , just around 5:30 in the evening both a bit puffed out to say the least. When we booked into the digs, I said to the guy at the desk “El viento es muy fuerte” the wind is very strong, he just smiled and said in perfect English, you are in Patagonia what do you expect, think he had a fair point.

The good point about having long lunch breaks siestas, is the offices and shops stay open far later than we can. So after a big meal in a bar that had hosted many touring Rugby sides down the years and a frank chat about how we both felt. We did the walk of shame and headed to the local coach station to see if we could put the bikes on a bus!

Armed with my pigeon Spanish and of course goggle translator, off I went in search of salvation. First counter a firm ‘no’, second counter, possible ‘yes’ but need to return in the morning. As I was going back to Bingo who was waiting patiently (totally different characters) a guy stopped me and said try the counter at the far end. Duly turned around and made my way there, here we go again “¿Puedo poner dos bicicletas en el autobús a Trelew, por favor? “can I put two bikes on the bus to Trelew please “ she smiled and said manuan. ¿Puedo comprar los boletos ahora por favor? Can I buy the tickets now please, she just looked at me blankly. Then a charming girl asked if I needed any help, which I always do. She did the translation with consummate ease, before I knew I had brought 2 tickets for the bus that leaves at 7:45 tomorrow morning. I wished both of them Beuno Noche and thanked them so much for their help

Both feel a bit weird but I can assure you, this cycling touring malarkey is so much more than just cycling, it’s not all about riding, it about how you get over little disruptions on a daily basis. Well that my take on it.

Day 15 Wednesday 29th January 2025 Comodoro Rivadavia to Trelew

Both wake up to the gut-wrenching feeling we were getting on the bus today. Got our stuff together not too many words, then made our way down to collect the bikes stored in the basement. Packed them up and went for breakfast why not, but none of us could eat that much just a cup of coffee, cornflakes and toast.

Gingerly got on the bikes to ride the less than 1/2 mile to the coach station, with the wind blowing us all over the place, least that made me feel a it better. Got up to the coach station at least an hour and quarter too early, but needed to know the process, to be honest there was not much of a process. But one nice lady kept an eye out for us, after I asked her to inform us when the Trelew bus arrived. When it eventually arrived I was busy showing another touring cyclist how to get his ticket for the bus, he had just arrived on a bus from Comodoro Rivadavia and had been told he could not get a bus to Trelew, I took him to the desk where I purchased the tickets last night, after a bit of goggle translate we managed to get him a ticket on a later bus today. Fair play he had been on the road for 3 years! started off in Alaska down to Ushuaia now on his way back up the difficult side. I did get his name but instantly forgot it again, no worries its just an age thing, but remembered he was from Hawaii. [the guys name is Eddie :Ed].

So bus w* we are today, but its not that easy trying to get these juggernauts of bikes onto a coach when the guy does not want to, with a little bit of persuasion, with cash they finally loaded then on, we are off.

Same old countryside just a blur through the window as we sped to Trelew, get off the bus with the same confusion not wanting us to touch our bags until they had checked the tags, finally got all the bags off, then the bikes, which were slightly difficult, I ended up in the boot, unhooking them and passing them to Bingo – all good.

Bingo had sorted the digs out on the bus, Touring Hotel, allegedly the place were Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid was filmed in 1969, so straight away I am Paul Newman, Bingo has to settle for Steve McQeen, Scottish lad in Wales? [It was Robert Redford not Steve McQueen: Ed] Fair play I dont think the place has changed much since 1969, but it is full of character and charm, well most of that is from me (self-praise is no praise at all) word of advice from my Mum.

Got our room all sorted, stored the bikes then got ready to investigate this little Welsh enclave in Argentina, just has we were about to leave our mate Eddie from Hawaii came through the door, he was so pleased to meet us and thanked us for our help, its all Karma, we arranged to meet him later.

So off we went to explore the Welsh history around this town, pretty interesting reading as we went through the museum of the early railway, most of the pioneers came from North Wales, the City is still twinned with Carmarthen. Very rarely do I pull the Welsh hereditary, but did just as Bingo was due to pay the entrance fee, I did, sorry it failed but did managed to say Diolch yn fawr (thank you) rather than Por favor. Then signed the visitors book “Land of My Father Bingo & Gringo” Sorry Auntie Doreen pinched your phase but only for artistic license.

Day 16 Thursday 30th January 2025 Trelew to Puerto Madryn

Had a little walk around the quaint city, pretty weird with all the streets having Welsh names, went into a little museum, that told the story of the first Welsh immigrants, mainly from North Wales, the city is actually twinned with Carmarthen. Even pulled the Welsh heritage thing out, when we had to pay to get into the Museum, said my Dad was Welsh so can we get in for free, sadly it did not work, signed the visitors book “Land of My Father, Bingo & Gringo”

We met our new friend Eddie for evening meal in the Touring Hotel, bar/restaurant, interesting guy if not a bit strange, he has been on the road for three years, down from Alaska to South America, some interesting stories, well for us strange touring guys it was, Sandra did not seem to impressed when I told her! All in all an enjoyable night, we bade our farewells as he is staying in Trelew for a couple of days.

Left Trelew just as the sun was breaking through, just in shirt selves, the temperature was 24 degrees Centigrade at 6ish in the morning, going to be a hot windy day by all accounts. Bingo navigated us out of the city with ease, then spent the 15 miles on a new section of road that had not been opened, had the road to ourselves luxury.

Made excellent progress in the early hours, but could feel the wind picking up and the temperature souring, had a little break on the side of the road, in the only shade we could find, as we were sitting down I said to Bingo, do I smell of fish? thats all I have been smelling since we joined this road, he laughed said it was the trucks passing us filled up with fish waste, well that was a relief. Checked the maps their seemed to be a petrol station around 12 miles away, lovely my head already dreaming of a “Magnum ice-cream” kept us both going, as the headwind was getting stronger and stronger.

Finally made it to the petrol station had a great hours break, ice-cream cold drinks and sweet coffee, living the dream, Bingo also had a cunning plan, (Baldrick still hasn’t joined us) that would knock of a few miles, in meant turning off the fish highway a bit early then heading inland on the “ripo” tracks, seemed like a good idea. Fair play it would have saved us a few miles if the AirBB place we thought we was going to stay at, was actually an AirBB place, turns out it wasn’t. Both of our faces dropped a bit as the place had a lovely swimming pool in the garden, though the lovely people staying there filled our water bottles up and gave us directions to a nearby glamping site, this could be fun. Push on a mile or so with Bingo shouting next right, no not this the next one or the next one, finally got there, field with a half built house, two steel containers and a log cabin, but more importantly no dogs it seemed. We went in Bingo went to the log cabin I went down to the half built house as I could see a guy down there, result he said we could stay in one of the containers, would get the lady to come out and meet us. Five minutes later this jolly rather large bouncy lady came running up to me, gave me a big cuddle and a kiss, I was petrified, but Bingo was having none of this he was straight in for his cuddle and a snog (Maybe a new partner on the horizon?). All sorted with the help of goggle translate, she even cooked us a little lunch, tortilla and a nice onion, sweet corn and eggplant vinegar thing, very nice. Said we could use the kids pool to cool down in if we wanted too, so after both had a soak in it, felt great to loosen off our weary legs. The wind is now around 50mph, hopefully it will die down tomorrow.

Early night tonight, got some cycling to do in the morning.

Day 17 Friday January 31st Puerto Madryn to Sierra Grande

Well it was a strange evening last night after doing 40 lengths in the paddling pool, washing the kit, etc personal hygiene is next to godliness so they say. I just think it’s better than smelling like a fish.

We asked the lady host if there are any restaurants open, she guided us downtown about 1 km.. So we walked, weird little village nothing is finished just loads of roaming dogs, pure Aylesham stock so OK with that, provided Bingo went first. Got to the so called restaurant, it didn’t look like a restaurant probably because it wasn’t, the lady was very nice but did not offer to cook our tea, so it was the walk back and cook in the trailer. Both a bit concerned that if we eat what we have will have no contingency plan if it all goes pear shaped tomorrow. I have another cunning plan ask the nice lady host if I can buy some eggs, onions and vegetables off her. She smiles I think she said yes, but what she actually said was I will take you to the shop. So I hop in her car and sped of down the ripo tracks, all the time I am thinking don’t just get beer and chocolate not really my forte shopping. There is no way you would know this place was a shop, just looked like another unfinished building with a barn. I managed to get some pasta, onions, garlic, sauces etc as well as a few beers and chocolate was quite pleased with my little self.

So we ate and drank like kings eventually in the “village of the dammed” . Once again wholly debited to our amazing host, the people we have met have been incredible, makes us feel pretty humble.

Suppose I should get onto the cycling bit, well lo and behold the wind has died down as we left our lovely host and the village of the dammed just after 6. It was an absolute pleasure to ride, skipping through the miles with not a care in the world, provided we get to Sierra Grande before the rugby starts. To be honest it was a no brainer as we hit the 60 mile mark just after 10 in the morning, stopped at a road side cafe, think we may have been their first customers since 1956, but got a nice cold lemon drink and a cafe con leche, the place sold everything from hunting knives to toothbrushes. Left then enjoyed the roll in to Sierra Grande, bit of a gentle climb before we entered the sleepy town, usual ice cream and cold drink then headed to one of the two hotels in town, first one not open till 3, so go to the other one, all good room and bikes sorted. Couple of hours to relax and sort out the rugby viewing.

Day 18 Saturday 1st February 2025 Sierra Grande to San Antonio Oeste

Finally got to watch the rugby last night, tried a few bars to no avail so set the laptop up with a VPN and watched it live in the hotel, not the best venue. Same could be said about the score. Then went out for a bite to eat, found a quirky restaurant with all sorts of memorabilia hanging on the walls, Bingo even found a miner head torch and rebreather he was well happy, ended up putting “two rings in 38’s main gate”, not sure if that makes sense but it’s all I can remember from the back room of the “Dog” back in the day.

Not sure what happened to this Sierra Grande last night but it seemed they had the biggest party ever going on all night, does not usually bother me that much, but kept we awake a bit last night, think I just wanted to join them partying oh to be young again. You could still see a few of them walking home as Bingo and I set off just before 6, could not put up with the noise any longer, so just as pedal.

It was actually quite cold this morning, with just a gentle breeze for now, Bingo had the smart idea of soaking his socks this morning to keep his feel cool, turned out they nearly froze! Just steady away trying to keep up a decent pace without going too hard, managed to keep going for nearly four hours before the first roadside stop, nothing on this road, until we get to San Antonio Oeste, so have an apple, chocolate wagon wheel thing and some peanuts, the food of athletes or just what we were carrying. We carried on, then got a bit excited as we could see a petrol station ahead, sure it was a petrol station but it did not sell ice-creams, an utter disgrace, still making good progress so it was not much of an issue. Bit of a slight change in the wildlife today, flock of parakeets (could have seen them in Margate – probably a Monk Parakeet) few big black eagles, awaiting the correct name and some pheasants with a nice doo-dar on top of their head.

The final 20 odd miles was a descent into the outskirts of San Antonio Oeste, which made for a nice finish for the day, rocked up to the first hotel, not good as the scary lady said it opens at 18:00, looked to me that it had not opened since the 18th Century, bit like one of the “Scooby Do hotels”! We decided to have a bit of lunch and see if we can get in the other hotel about 2 miles down the road. All fed and watered off we set to the next hotel, bit of a contrast here, nice chalet, swimming pool open air bar, what more can you ask for?

All we had do is relax!!! Then watch the rugby.