This years ride is to Corfu in Greece via a ferry link from Bari in Italy.

Greece 2023 Day 1 Prologue

Wednesday June 28th, Aylesham to St. Omer

The Plan

This year the aim is to do a cycle camping tour to Greece. Or rather all the way to Bari in Italy where a ferry will be taken to the island of Corfu for a rendezvous with partners (or not!).

Well here we go again. Another restless nights sleep. I still get nervous and excited before we leave. Like Bingo says “if your not apprehensive about the ride, it’s not worth doing”.

Met Bingo at his, just a nod of the head and we are off, through the lanes to Dover to meet Dave, the first objective is achieved as we rode straight passed the Two Sawyers and The Bell without stopping. We met Dave outside the White Horse but as it was closed we went over the road for a quick beer before boarding the ferry.

We met some fellow bike tourers boarding the ferry: two young lads from Bristol on the way to Istanbul – fair play – one of them on a lovely Thorn tourer. Then another couple from the Netherlands who had just finished a tour of theSouth of England, on their back to
Amsterdam.

We managed to book a little hotel in St Omer on the ferry, and then had a great 30 odd mile ride to St Omer, following canal tracks and byways. A really enjoyable ride.

Found the little quaint Hotel, with a nice owner, had a quick shower and out for a nice beer and food. Good first day with 50 miles under our belts. Nothing can go wrong.

Greece 2023 Day 2 Stage 1

Thursday June 29th, St. Omer to Mons

This is the morning half of Day01 – they continued to Mons after this

The man did a brilliant job with the breakfast spread just what we needed.

On the road at 7:30 heading towards Greece and a few beer stops in between.

Lovely cycle paths and roads, made great progress, had a cake stop after a few hours, nice chat with a French / US professor, actually spent a bit of time in Canterbury – nice guy. Then pushed on to Tournai for a liquid lunch.

Nice lunch fully hydrated, then onto the canal tow path to Mons, into Belguim hey ho, we are flying, smashed the last 30 odd miles all fueled by beer!

Mons was a bit of a weird town, found a bar that was a relief, then a takeaway pizza, Bingo went big 15inch massive for all of us I followed up with over ordering the beers, then to cap it all Dave ordered.

The rain, chucked it down while we had are picnic and put the tents up Charming but hey ho we’re tough, mad lads.

No one finished the pizza or beers for that matter, but we slept well.

Good day in the saddle and great company

Greece 2023 Day 3 Stage 2

Friday June 30th, Mons to Ciney

First night wild camping next to Canal, about 6 miles outside Mons.

Typically not rained all day then starts just as we are putting up the tents and trying to eat the biggest pizza in living memory.

Not a great nights sleep, but had the benefit of an early start, on the road at 6 30. Riding the tow paths, great early miles, with interesting features massive double boat lift at Strépy-Thieu then onto Le St Martin for breakfast from the local boulanger bakery. Then on through the industrial towns still hugging the canal banks past the dark satanic steel Mills and processing plants.

Had great lunch stop in a bar in ? will get the place later, owner was superb, and gave us an extra beer said it was from the guy inside who spent a bit of time in Newcastle, turns out he played for NUFC for 5 years, Phillipe Albert, very good player (and Belgium International) and a nice guy to boot.

Finally manage to leave the bar, then came off the canal, few a little climbs up an old railway cycle track stayed on that for a good 25 miles. Started to climb a bit more now, up to Ciney, had a nice evening meal then cracked on for a few extra miles, then going set the tents up for a another wild camping night.

Greece 2023 Day 4 Stage 3

Saturday July 1st, Ciney to Bastogne

Well nothing of importance happened today, 3 days early, but so what.

It just rained all day, really difficult day with 8000 feet of climbing.

Packed up the soaking tents and stuff an set off – not a smile to be seen, just grimacing and trying to work out why we are doing this – because we love it.

Stopped in very little village, near Rochfort wanted a breakfast but they only sold cheese, they felt sorry for us so ended up with ice cream and coffee, while the rain kept coming down & down. Up we went again through the vicious Ardenne hills no wonder the Belgiums are so tough – fair play to them tough lads.

Still raining stopped in a weird shop sold everything except food, even managed a small can of beer there sat outside – still raining, decided we need a plan, ok my department ride to Bastogne find a bar and revaluate today. Found a place got in just before the heavens opened again.

Decent plan booked a glamping site on the outskirts of Bastogne, good choice the place did look like a gypsy camp with all the tents and sleeping bags hanging out.

Lovely place though, nice night out and a great shower, and we washed all the kit as well.

Greece 2023 Day 5 Stage 4

Sunday July 2nd, Bastogne to Mettlach

Woke up at the crack of dawn, packed up all the camping gear, cup of coffee and bowl of porridge, then off before 7, heading for Luxembourg and beyond.

First 20 odd miles on an old railway line excellent riding, on on to a few vicious steep climbs and into Luxembourg, with its immaculate roads and byways, everything all prim and proper. No way you was going to get a beer here on Sunday, no worries crossed into Germany and stopped for an early lunch in Echternach nice pasta dishes all around and a few beers.

Pushed on hugging the Sûre river bank, on the border between Luxembourg and Germany, getting a good few miles in making up for yesterday, Bingo at the front speeding past all the bars and restaurants along the riverside, saying “we need to make up some time” Dave and I hanging on to his wheel. Finally persuaded him to stop in the little town of Konz.

Couple of beers, then booked a pension in the Town of Mettlach around 30 miles of steady riding away, all along the river.

All good got to the hotel, however no-one around, Dave managed to give the owner a call, he said he was at least an hour an half away so cancelled the booking. Managed to find a restaurant with a few rooms so booked there instead, good choice, nice meal and a good room.

Greece 2023 Day 6 Stage 5

Monday July 3rd, Mettlach to Bernolsheim, France

Hearty breakfast for the condemned, also raided the boiled eggs from the hotel, no boiled egg police onside (reference to China Linney nearly got 20 years hard labour when he got caught pinching eggs in China)

Think that might have been easier than the 1st 5miles of today’s ride straight up the logging trails tough riding, Bingo went off piste, Dave and I just about kept on track, me riding like Mr Magoo, could not see a thing, Dave did a fantastic job leading me through the Black Forest Gateaux. Radio silence was broken and Bingo emerged from the gateaux all in one piece, all three back in the game.

Nice steady riding now, for the next 40ish mile, stopped in the German border town Wallendors, last German beer for a night,

Also massive lunch went early on the Greek salad!

As we headed back into France hugging a canal tow path eating up the miles all riding good and strong.

Then we hit the logging trails up in forest Dave in his element then we can’t believe once again we get lost, at least this time we are all together, here we go again down the wonderful trails how I stayed on the bike no one knows, but got out alive and fit, still did not have a Scooby-doo where we were though. Managed to find a bar in a very small village, always seems to help with the planning, few beers room sorted about 12 miles away nothing can go wrong ! Well going 4 miles in the wrong direction was not a good start, but hey ho all pulled together rerouted and Big Dave led us to the digs. Well nearly Mr Magoo took over for the last 2 miles leading the train home as a true captain.

Massive 108 miles on the touring machine, great effort, things can only get better.

Greece 2023 Day 7 Stage 6

Tuesday July 4th, Bernolsheim, France to Rottweil, Germany

Something of importance did happen today. Mum and Dad’s 70th Wedding Anniversary: respect, that’s why we do what we do, THANKS. You made us what we are.Dale & Keith

Enough of the sentimental stuff, pretty uneventful hotel, but served a failry good breakfast, saved the boiled eggs again and set off heading to Strasbourg and beyond, back into the Fatherland. Danke schönn and all that German stuff.

We are riding so good at the moment – early days but good riding.

Bingo got us through the busy city of Strasbourg with relative ease, then on to the gravel roads for a fair few miles, just enjoying the riding and mashing up the miles, easy riding, there will be a sting in the tail. Stopped at a little coffee shop, before we set off again, still keeping a good pace as we started to climb knowing we had a fairly tough climb ahead. Bingo kept pushing through the small villages as we made are way up the climb, Dave finally called a lunch stop in the pretty town Schramberg, then promptly carried on without stopping not sure what went on their but we just carried on till the next village and stopped for lunch. Nice place overlooking the river, as always too much beer, especially as we still had the steepest part of the climb to do. We certainly do it the hard way, but soon burnt the beer off as we climbed and climbed but reached the summit, this is only the start!

Pretty nice decent and guess what I managed to find a hotel in a remote village called Rottweil (didn’t notice if the sign said ‘No Dogs!’), walked into the guys living-room, asked if he was open – he said in an hours time, then looked at my sad face and said he would open up, good lad. Bingo had booked an hotel about 12 miles away so happy days, ended gliding into the hotel chatting with the locals all night and last ones to leave the bar still in the cycling kit, going to be a tough morning tomorrow but let’s not worry about that yet, quick shower and bed.

Greece 2023 Day 8 Stage 7

Wednesday July 5th, Rottweil, Germany to Lustenau, Austria

All feeling a bit worse for wear this morning, no breakfast just straight out on the bikes at 7, even put a bit of sun tan lotion on the this morning – a tad optimistic.

As the sky clouded over, then started to rain, was a bit lumpy but nothing too serious. Started to rain harder and got quite cold, just have to pedal harder to keep warm. Had break in a little bakery shop sheltering from the rain, coffee with loads of sugar my new fitness regime and cold pizza, Bingo and Dave had a curried chicken thing, both said strange choice but filled a hole. All good and fed, feeling so mutch better and the rain eased up and finally stopped as we pushed on to Lake Constance.

We all knew the lake was getting closer, loads of tourists about and a few serious cycle travellers, gave them a wave and a cheerful smile, kindred sprints to all the mad tourers. We entered Switzerland as we can to the shores of the lake and continued along the flat cycle lanes hugging the shoreline, quite busy with tourists on all sorts of bikes, nice relaxing riding. Stopped for lunch in a trendy beach bar, good food, few ice cold beers, felt good.

Booked a small hotel in Austria roughly 25 miles away, steady riding as we pulled away from the lake, the impressive Alps in the distance. Big Dave leading in nice end to a day’s cycle, through the old border control and found the hotel easily in Lustenau.

Greece 2023 Day 9 Stage 8

Thursday July 6th, Lustenau to Landeck, Austria

Climbing fun day today nothing can go wrong!

The fortunate few sat down for breakfast examing the route, not much to say but get on with it, climbing all day, with a little descent after 80 miles if we get that far.

First 30 odd miles no issues just a gentle incline mostly off road on gravel tracks nothing we can’t handle, following a river that looks good for kayaking, the incline is steadily getting a bit steeper.

Then got really tough, just get in zone and pedal, all went a bit pear shaped as the major road shut, making all the traffic come on to the minor road we were on, making it horrible riding, we pulled into a village to re-assess the situation as it was

It was getting pretty lairy with with the lorries thundering past us, ended up re-routing via Lech another ski resort up the mountain in the wrong direction, as usual sat down in a bar where they all spoke Italian had a beer and discussed our options.

Ended up going for the descent on the horrible road, and booked a hotel in Landeck, once big Dave led on us on. Wicked decent all tucked together riding like the wind, Dave pulling us through, until el capatino took the lead one handed leading us into the hotel just before 8pm. What a day tough but great fun.

Greece 2023 Day 10 Stage 9

Friday July 7th, Landeck, Austria to Vilpiano, Italy

All up with a spark this morning Big Dave has his riding legs now so eager to go, first up and best dressed, let’s rock.

We left just after 7:30, with the wind on are tail, riding the little lanes, steadily climbing through the green pastures and forests goood start to the day. Then joined up with a main road, quite busy with road works that held us up for a good 45 min. Then the road got busy with all the held up traffic, pretty lairy riding, all tucked in and done the biggest climb of the day upto ski station had lunch there, with a crazy Italian waitress, good fun watching the skilled mountain bikers coming down the ski trails, good stuff.

Very tactical descent, with a few other cyclists, always makes for good fun, only one little incident I hit a sign post, no big deal.

Followed the trail all the way to Merano quite difficult to follow at points but managed it, including a little refreshment stop in Sportsbar Naturns, around 12 miles outside Merano, nice place. Bingo also sorted a place to stay, around another 12 miles the other side of Merano,

Great cycle paths even though the busy town, great end to the day and good riding .

Arrived at hotel to a near hero welcoming, great hospitality, nice chats with the local cyclists, they are all impressed, but fair play we was with their ride. Few beers and meal. 90 odd miles done.

Greece 2023 Day 11 Stage 10

Saturday July 8th, Vilpiano to Malcesine (Lake Garda), Italy

Wake up to a glorious. morning, hotel was great and arranged an early breakfast for us, do with coffee and apricot pastry things we hit the road, feeling good back on the road heading for Lake Garda.

Soon on the cycle path and almost immediately picked up a local cycle group who welcomed us onto their tail, hey ho here we go, 30 great miles with them, good lads.

Both doing a bit of a climb on the Mote Bonedone, part of the Giro 2023 16th stage, I can honestly say one tough tough climb. Loads of road bikes giving us moral support as we very slowly did the the switchbacks, finally getting to the top with much relief. As always a bit of light refreshments at the top, before we started the magical descent to Lake Garda, nothing will stop the train now!

A good descent stopped around 8 miles from the lake, this descending is very thirst quenching as we enjoyed a couple of beers beside the river.

All fueled up we completed the last few miles of the descent and hit the tourist town of Malcesine.

Had a lovely meal with some nice company, very interested in what us mad lads are doing, made us feel a little bit better, as we discussed our sleeping arrangements, basically sleeping rough on the banks of the lake, which we duly did in the part we could find.

Putting up the tents up secretly was fun.

Greece 2023 Day 12 Stage 11

Sunday July 9th, Malcesine (Lake Garda), Italy to Ochiobello, Italy

Seemed like we was up before we went to bed, all camping gear stowed away and on the road around 5:40, very early start.

Cycling quite nice riding on the twisty turning roads around Lake Garda. Stopped for breakfast just after 8ish, 25 early miles in used their facilities all felt brand new after a couple of capacinnos and chocolate crossiants.

Off we set off again, heading for the end of the lake then the Adriatic coast, very impressed with the cycle tracks leading us away from the lakes. Soon got into the swing and all three working together, had an Italian join in with us, then took the lead on his electric MTB, kept us going for a good 25 miles, not cheating just getting pulled along.

Very hot today, 38 degrees, but not complaining, just need more refreshments, though it’s difficult to eat, quite happy with the liquid refreshments though. Stopped in bar Ventilation in Mantua.

Then carried heading to the digs for the night, roughly about 30 miles away, few light refreshments, getting the young puppies going, big Daves music, we are rocking, aka @ Lloyd Partners spin classes, here we go my bike is like a lovely Watt bike, just as heavy but when the music is playing it rolls like a dream let it roll baby, all I can remember now is a bit of my super hero songs Billy Bragg”New England ” kept us going all the way to Occhiobello and a great hotel, nice meal and a big big pudding, all told 110 miles on the tourers, good stuff.

Greece 2023 Day 13 Stage 12

Monday July 10th, Ochiobello to Rimini

Nice breakfast at the Unaway Hotel in Ochiobello, then on to the Adriatic coast and the Rimmi riviera.

Bit difficult getting out of town, then had another big town almost straight away Ferrara, not sure if that’s where the chocolate comes from, but definitely seen a sign for Garibaldi so we are in biscuit / chocolate heaven.

Finally got on to the little lanes and cycle tracks, mainly on an old railway line, Bingo seen the biggest snake in living memory, made a big girly scream, I was right behind him, but did not see a thing again!

Stopped in Argenta for a coffee and cake, a nice little air conditioned coffee shop, us old lads spoiling ourselves, but need to get out of the sun when we can. Then sped on full steam ahead to the seaside.

Carried on alternating between the SS16 road and the cycle tracks, making steady progress, but needing plenty of refreshments, struggling to find a place open we just kept the legs rolling, turned in a really nice rural restaurant, unfortunately not open, but they did give us directions to another place, which we eventually found, after the customary road closure sign, just moved the fencing cycled through, just a big hole in the road nothing us big guns can’t get over.

Few light refreshments then the last stint into Rimini, always going to be busy, but just get into the holiday mood, stopped gorgeous a beer to sort out the directions to the hotel and rode there with consummate ease, well nearly but found the small pension eventually.

Greece 2023 Day 14 Stage 13

Tuesday July 11th, Rimini to Civitanova Marche

Another day and another ride, just what we are made for, feel like we could ride forever.

Here we are in the cosmopolitan tourist mecca of Rimini, three extremely good looking lads (self praise is no praise at all) in bed by 10 and up a 6, good strong athletes.

On the road through the deserted streets just us and the refuse collectors both doing a fine job. We made surprisingly good progress, alternatively between the boardwalk/ promenade in my parlance mainly on Dave or Bingo preferences as I have not got a clue just keep pedaling. We stopped for a little snack @ Sottomore, little beach bar, filled up with coffee, pastries etc, then pushed on.

We made surprisingly good progress in and out of the touristy bits, the sandy beaches and trendy bars.

Had a bit of lunch at a Marina bar, with some much needed liquid refreshments.

Then got onto the SS16 road not too busy, two guys looked even older than me gave us there wheel as pushed on to Civitanova Marche, we had booked an apartment, the incredible welcoming host was there to meet us, right on time, she had even put a couple of beers in the fridge.

Excellent place with a restaurant just down the road, another good day on the road.

Greece 2023 Day 15 Stage 14

Wednesday July 12th, Civitanova Marche to Casalbordino

Left the great apartment just after 7, breakfast was last nights pasta in a doggy bag for me and porridge for Bingo and Dave, with sachet coffee, as none of us could work the coffee machine (needed Kristian best coffee maker in the family and the best cyclist, one day he will join us on our mad capers).

So here we go heading south, with the intention of riding as far and fast as possible, nothing can go wrong just riding to the sun, pulling in the big miles and getting a few miles before it gets even hotter, we all prefer the heat rather than the cold, so just take in the ever changing scenery and ride, ride ride!

Just kept heading south in and out of the touristy areas, spreading the world how good bike touring is, with our tanned sweaty athletic bodies not making any impression with the sun tanned Adriatic locals.

Stopped in a few places for beers and refreshments, but in all honesty we are all pretty knackered, so will leave it upto the editor to correct the exact location’s. [Casalbordino!]

Finally rolled into the hotel around 19:30.

Completely shattered, over 100 miles on these babies, bonkers to any sane man.

Greece 2023 Day 16 Stage 15

Thursday July 13th, Casalbordino to San Severo

Not the best breakfast In the world , but here we go full steam ahead (FSH) into the inferno, temperatures expected to reach 38 degrees today, was getting hot as we set off. To be honest it felt like I have never riden my trusty old surly, before, like riding through treacle but was thankful that we all felt the same way after the first coffee, the text predicted came out “coffin ” think that might have been more appropriate.

But with a bit of extra sugar in the body the puppies got rolling, as the temperature increased, no hills just constant exposure to the sunshine, something we was looking for last week, love it!

Though we needed to keep our water topped up, stopped at any convenient place, and getting a cheeky ice cream was how we carried on, just a bit of endurance training, it was difficult grinding out the miles but super athletes always have a goal, mine was an ice cold beer ASAP. Just keep the pedals rolling.

Stopped for lunch in the deserted village Lesinna , managed to find a bar open, that served food happy days, the young lad behind the bar spoke excellent English, was planning to have a trip to Leicester later in the year, also had aspirations to become a F1 driver, currently was racing karts. Excellent food as well, dished up with local beer

As it was so hot, decided to cut the day a bit short, Bingo booked up a place to stay about 15 miles away, just off the route, so here we go again, fueled with pasta and local beer, perfect.

Cycling through the little lanes past vast quarries, extracting Apricenca stones.

Finally arrived at the digs, we were the only residents /patients, lovely rambling mansion place, excellent hospitality, especially as Bingo got the generator fired up, they were so pleased! (an Agritourismo!)

Nice local authentic meal, no menu just as it comes, another good stop.

Greece 2023 Day 17 Stage 16

Friday July 14th, San Severo to Bisceglie

We got are release papers early, with a crossiant, cold water and capacinnos all good and on the road to Bari. Plenty of time so just taking our time, on the deserted old highway, flat as a pan and straight as an arrow: what have the Romans ever done for us.

First 35 mile done in a flash, stopped in a little coffee shop in Trinitopoli for a coffee and soft drinks. Then push on a bit further at a steady pace, nice to just take it easy for a change, less than 50 mile to Bari, what could possibly go wrong!

Another impromptu stop in the centre of Apilia, lovely spot on the green, sure they got the bill wrong, 13 euros ! for 4 beers each, but paid up and moved on.

Only a couple of miles for a proper lunch stop.

Met a lovely couple of fellow travellers, they had just finished doing athe Camio de Santiago pilgrimage walk, truly amazing sisters with great stories to tell, pretty humbling, will make a lasting impression on me. Total respect girls and thanks for helping with the translation stuff and making the lunch stop so good, will definitely have a look at your book. [Ed: this was Nicole Bukaty and her sister. Nicole is currently writing the Vía de la Plata and Camino Sanabrés guidebook for Cicerone.]

faccia buon viaggioD, K and D

Well told you nothing can go wrong, as we ambled into the small fishing port Biscengile, got the bikes sorted.

Then big Dave came down with a stomach upset, straight away he said food poisoning, he stayed in the apartment with plenty ofbottled water, Bingo and went down to the harbour, for a very small meal, all three of us are shattered. I followed Dave and was violently sick, then Bingo threw up as well, truly horrible experience.

We think it may be some dodgy water we had, as none of us ate the same.

Luckily we only had 26 miles on the flat to finish tomorrow, not sure we can make it though.

Greece 2023 Day 18 Stage 17

Saturday July 15th, Bisceglie to Bari

Well that was a night to forget!

Shame as we had a nice spacious apartment just off the bustling quay side.

While all three of us spent the entire night in and out of the rest room facilities.

Good job we had planned this tour so well, leaving a little 26 mile jaunt today. Even that scared us as we hesitantly left the apartment, heading to the port city of Bari, then on to Corfu.

Just steady away as we made our way to the Port, not much was said, just concentrating on keeping all the bodily functions intact. Sorry for the detail but it was difficult.

We had only drunk water this morning from a bottle I had, lesson to self, do not be so blasé about the local water.

Stopped in a little coffee shop, all good news all three of us managed to have a cappuccino and hold it down, thanks for small mercies.

Stopped again for an ice-cream now, not sure if it was a good idea, but it was so hot and we had checked the rest rooms out.

Only had a short hop to the ferry terminal, actually booked and settled for the air conditioned lounge, shame we could not enjoy the marina restaurants, but we are experienced in resting after another great tour.

Thanks to Bingo and Dave, great company as always, terrific riding and brilliant navigation skills: we didn’t get lost once.

A few uncorroborated statistics

Distance in Miles	Number of Days	Average per Day
1440.1	18	80

Rider	Event
Dale	Puncture
Bingo	Gravel track did not remove cleats quickly enough
Dave	Gravel track did not remove cleats quickly enough
Dave	Hit a bush on a cycle track
Dave	Snapped a chain

Rider	Bike	Brakes	Wheels
Bingo	Cannondale Tourer	disc	700mm
Dave	Surly Long Haul Trucker	disc	26in
Dale	Surly Long Haul Trucker	caliper	26in

Greece 2023 Island Life 1

Sunday July 16th, Corfu Town

The team arrive in Corfu off the ferry from Bari. A glorious morning and everyone is feeling a lot better than they did yesterday. It’s only a short ride through the streets of Corfu Town to the lodgings. But first the traditional line-up for the team photograph on completion of the tour. Very soon they check-in and unload the bags. Before long they’ve had a decent lunch and a few beers.

Then it’s a well earned siesta in the afternoon before a wander around the streets that evening.