Saturday July 15th, Bisceglie to Bari

Well that was a night to forget!

Shame as we had a nice spacious apartment just off the bustling quay side.

While all three of us spent the entire night in and out of the rest room facilities.

Good job we had planned this tour so well, leaving a little 26 mile jaunt today. Even that scared us as we hesitantly left the apartment, heading to the port city of Bari, then on to Corfu.

Just steady away as we made our way to the Port, not much was said, just concentrating on keeping all the bodily functions intact. Sorry for the detail but it was difficult.

We had only drunk water this morning from a bottle I had, lesson to self, do not be so blasé about the local water.

Stopped in a little coffee shop, all good news all three of us managed to have a cappuccino and hold it down, thanks for small mercies.

Stopped again for an ice-cream now, not sure if it was a good idea, but it was so hot and we had checked the rest rooms out.

Only had a short hop to the ferry terminal, actually booked and settled for the air conditioned lounge, shame we could not enjoy the marina restaurants, but we are experienced in resting after another great tour.

Thanks to Bingo and Dave, great company as always, terrific riding and brilliant navigation skills: we didn’t get lost once.

A few uncorroborated statistics

Distance in Miles	Number of Days	Average per Day
1440.1	18	80

Rider	Event
Dale	Puncture
Bingo	Gravel track did not remove cleats quickly enough
Dave	Gravel track did not remove cleats quickly enough
Dave	Hit a bush on a cycle track
Dave	Snapped a chain

Rider	Bike	Brakes	Wheels
Bingo	Cannondale Tourer	disc	700mm
Dave	Surly Long Haul Trucker	disc	26in
Dale	Surly Long Haul Trucker	caliper	26in

Friday July 14th, San Severo to Bisceglie

We got are release papers early, with a crossiant, cold water and capacinnos all good and on the road to Bari. Plenty of time so just taking our time, on the deserted old highway, flat as a pan and straight as an arrow:  what have the Romans ever done for us.

First 35 mile done in a flash, stopped in a little coffee shop in Trinitopoli for a coffee and soft drinks. Then push on a bit further at a steady pace, nice to just take it easy for a change, less than 50 mile to Bari, what could possibly go wrong!

Another impromptu stop in the centre of Apilia, lovely spot on the green,  sure they got the bill wrong,  13 euros ! for 4 beers each, but paid up and moved on.

Only a couple of miles for a proper lunch stop.

Met a lovely couple of fellow travellers, they had just finished doing athe Camio de Santiago pilgrimage walk,  truly amazing sisters with great stories to tell, pretty humbling, will make a lasting impression on me.  Total respect girls and thanks for helping with the translation stuff and making the lunch stop so good, will definitely have a look at your book. [Ed: this was Nicole Bukaty and her sister. Nicole is currently writing the Vía de la Plata and Camino Sanabrés guidebook for Cicerone.]

faccia buon viaggio

D, K and D

Well told you nothing can go wrong,  as we ambled into the small fishing port Biscengile, got the bikes sorted.

Then big Dave came down with a stomach upset, straight away he said food poisoning, he stayed in the apartment with plenty ofbottled water, Bingo and went down to the harbour, for a very small meal, all three of us are shattered. I followed Dave and was violently sick, then Bingo threw up as well, truly horrible experience.

We think it may be some dodgy water we had, as none of us ate the same.

Luckily we only had 26 miles on the flat to finish tomorrow, not sure we can make it though.

Thursday July 13th, Casalbordino to San Severo

Not the best breakfast In the world , but here we go full steam ahead  (FSH)  into the inferno, temperatures expected to reach 38 degrees today, was getting hot as we set off. To be honest it felt like I have never riden my trusty old surly, before, like riding through treacle  but was thankful that we all felt the same way after the first coffee,  the text predicted came out “coffin ” think that might  have been more appropriate.

But with a bit of extra sugar in the body the puppies got rolling, as the temperature increased, no hills just constant exposure to the sunshine,  something we was looking for last week, love it!

Though we needed to keep our water topped up, stopped at any convenient place, and getting a cheeky ice cream was how we carried on, just a bit of endurance training, it was difficult grinding out the miles  but super athletes always have a goal, mine was an ice cold beer ASAP. Just keep the pedals rolling.

Stopped for lunch in the deserted village Lesinna , managed to find a bar open, that served food happy days, the young lad behind the bar spoke excellent English, was planning to have a trip to Leicester later in the year, also had aspirations to become a F1 driver, currently was racing karts. Excellent food as well, dished up with local beer

As it was so hot, decided to cut the day a bit short, Bingo booked up a place to stay about 15 miles away, just off the route, so here we go again, fueled with pasta and local beer, perfect.

Cycling through the little lanes past vast quarries, extracting Apricenca stones.

Finally arrived at the digs, we were the only residents /patients, lovely rambling mansion place, excellent hospitality, especially as Bingo got the generator fired up, they were so pleased! (an Agritourismo!)

Nice local authentic meal, no menu just as it comes, another good stop.

Wednesday July 12th, Civitanova Marche to Casalbordino

Left the great apartment just after 7, breakfast was last nights pasta in a doggy bag for me and porridge for Bingo and Dave, with sachet coffee, as none of us could work the coffee machine (needed Kristian best coffee maker in the family and  the best cyclist, one day he will join us on our mad capers).

So here we go heading south, with the intention of riding as far  and fast as possible, nothing can go wrong just riding to the sun, pulling in the big miles and getting a few miles before it gets even hotter, we all prefer the heat rather than the cold,  so just take in the ever changing scenery and ride, ride ride!

Just kept heading south  in and out of the touristy areas, spreading the world how good bike touring is, with our tanned sweaty athletic bodies not making any impression with the sun tanned Adriatic locals.

Stopped in a few places for beers and refreshments, but in all honesty we are all pretty knackered,  so will leave it upto the editor to correct the exact location’s. [Casalbordino!]

Finally rolled into the hotel around 19:30.

Completely shattered, over 100 miles on these babies, bonkers to any sane man.

Tuesday July 11th, Rimini to Civitanova Marche

Another day and another ride, just what we are made for, feel like we could ride forever.

Here we are in the cosmopolitan tourist mecca of Rimini, three extremely good looking lads (self praise  is no praise at all) in bed by 10 and up a 6, good strong athletes.

On the road through the deserted streets just us and the refuse collectors  both doing a fine job. We made surprisingly good progress, alternatively between the boardwalk/ promenade in my parlance  mainly on Dave or Bingo preferences as I have not got a clue just keep pedaling. We stopped for a little snack @ Sottomore, little beach bar, filled up with coffee, pastries etc, then pushed on.

We made surprisingly good progress in and out of the touristy bits, the sandy beaches and trendy bars.

Had a bit of lunch at a Marina bar, with some much needed liquid refreshments.

Then got onto the SS16 road not too busy,  two guys looked even older than me gave us there wheel as pushed on to Civitanova Marche, we had booked an apartment,  the incredible welcoming host was there to meet us, right on time, she had even put a couple of beers in the fridge.

Excellent place with a restaurant just down the road, another good day on the road.

Monday July 10th, Ochiobello to Rimini

Nice breakfast at the Unaway Hotel in Ochiobello, then on to the Adriatic coast and the Rimmi riviera.

Bit difficult getting out of town, then had another big town almost straight away Ferrara, not sure if that’s where the chocolate comes from, but definitely seen a sign for Garibaldi so we are in biscuit / chocolate heaven.

Finally got on to the little lanes and cycle tracks, mainly on an old railway line, Bingo seen the biggest snake in living memory, made a big girly scream, I was right behind him, but did not see a thing again!

Stopped in Argenta for a coffee and cake, a nice little  air conditioned coffee shop, us old lads spoiling ourselves, but need to get out of the sun when we can. Then sped on full steam ahead to the seaside.

Carried on alternating between the SS16 road and the cycle tracks, making steady progress, but needing plenty of refreshments,  struggling to find a place open we just kept the legs rolling,  turned in a really nice rural restaurant, unfortunately not open, but they did give us directions to another place, which we eventually found, after the customary road closure sign, just moved the fencing cycled through, just a big hole in the road nothing us big guns can’t get over.

Few light refreshments then the last stint into Rimini, alway going to be busy, but just get into the holiday mood, stopped gorgeous a beer to sort out the directions to the hotel and rode there with comsumate ease, well nearly but found the small pension eventually.

Sunday July 9th, Malcesine (Lake Garda), Italy to Ochiobello, Italy

Seemed like we was up before we went to bed, all camping gear stowed away and on the road around 5:40, very early start.

Cycling quite nice riding on the twisty turning roads around Lake Garda. Stopped for breakfast just after 8ish, 25 early miles in used their facilities all felt brand new after a couple of capacinnos and chocolate crossiants.

Off we set off again, heading for the end of the lake then the Adriatic coast, very impressed with the cycle tracks leading us away from the lakes. Soon got into the swing and all three working together, had an Italian join in with us, then took the lead on his electric MTB, kept us going for a good 25 miles, not cheating just getting pulled along.

Very hot today, 38 degrees, but not complaining, just need more refreshments, though it’s difficult to eat, quite happy with the liquid refreshments though. Stopped in bar Ventilation in Mantua.

Then carried heading to the digs for the night, roughly about 30 miles away, few light refreshments, getting the young puppies going, big Daves music, we are rocking, aka @ Lloyd Partners spin classes,  here we go my bike is like a lovely Watt bike, just as heavy but when the music is playing it rolls like a dream let it roll baby, all I can remember now is a bit of my super hero songs Billy Bragg”New England ” kept us going all the way to Occhiobello and a great hotel, nice meal and a big big pudding,  all told 110 miles  on the tourers, good stuff.

Saturday July 8th, Vilpiano to Malcesine (Lake Garda), Italy

Wake up to a glorious. morning,  hotel was great and arranged an early breakfast for us, do with coffee and apricot pastry things we hit the road,  feeling good back on the road heading for Lake Garda.

Soon on the cycle path and almost  immediately picked up a local cycle group who welcomed us onto their tail, hey ho here we go, 30 great miles with them, good lads.

Both doing a bit of a climb on the Mote Bonedone, part of the Giro 2023 16th stage, I can honestly say one tough tough climb. Loads of road bikes giving us moral support as we very slowly did the the switchbacks, finally getting to the top with much relief. As always a bit of light refreshments at the top, before we started the magical  descent to Lake  Garda, nothing will stop the train now!

A good descent stopped around 8 miles from the lake, this descending is very thirst quenching as we enjoyed a couple of beers beside the river.

All fueled up we completed the last  few miles of the descent and hit the tourist town of Malcesine.

Had a lovely meal with some  nice company, very interested in what us mad lads are doing, made us feel a little bit better, as we discussed our sleeping arrangements, basically sleeping rough on the banks of the lake, which we duly did in the part we could find.

Putting up the tents up secretly was fun.