Month: March 2025

Week 12 – Lake Titicaca

Day 68 Sunday 23rd March 2025 Oruro to Patacamaya

To try and feed me, Bingo cooked in the hotel room last night, all the normal ingredients, pasta, onions, garlic, sweet corn, tomatoes plus 6 eggs, hopefully that should do the trick, with two massive helping, I was definitely not hungry after that lot.

Still very cautious of the altitude, just not rushing about, taking it as easy as we can, having a room on the 4th floor with no lift did not help though.

Breakfast in the room, cornflake / frosty things with yogurt, then get all the bags and water bottles down four flights of stairs, had to make two trip each, that was me done for the day already.

On the road around 6:15, first down an un-made road for about 1/2 mile, then onto the highway heading for Patacamaya, aroud 78 miles, with a few towns and villages on route, nowhere booked to stay, but a few hostels in the town so we should be fine. Took us a while to get out of Oruro, then on to clear roads, with a very wide hard shoulder. Just taking it easy getting in the early miles before the traffic builds up, we are on a relatively new road, that bypasses, most of the villages, so took a break on the side of the road, eating as much chocolate as I could. Once again no serious climbing today, just undulating road on a plateau around 13,000 ft.

Lovely road surface and very little traffic meant we made good progress in the cool morning, still the occasional truck belting out the obnoxious fumes, but nowhere near as bad as yesterday. Had a nice little break in a little town Konani, sat outside a little cafe and had two mugs of coffee and an apple, watching the world go by, strange little place, with traditionally clad women carry all sorts of stuff around, massive bales tied onto their backs, and we think we have it hard. Then a truck of llamas turned up, all sitting elegantly in the back of the truck, looked a sight, but they were probably on their last journey.

With just over 30 miles to go, back on the bikes, with a view to stopping again for a drink and chocolate in a place called Lahuachaca, went to a little shop, lovely lady served us, then came out for a little chat as we had a soft drink and chocolate rice crispy things I bought, not the best but wanted some energy.

Final part of the ride, had a gentle 5 mile incline, nothing serious, just made you work a bit, when we got over the submit you could see the snow capped mountains, possibly Huayna Potosi “Thunderous Youth” in Aymara, over to the left of us, looked massive!

Gentle little descent into Patacamaya, managed to get some digs for the night, in a little truck stop place, guy also kept the restaurant open so we could have a meal, top man. Strange meal, Potato, boiled egg (in shell), mozzarella cheese and seaweed stuff, it was ok to be honest, then up to to the sparse room, but least we will be warm.

Only got about 65 miles to La Paz tomorrow, then a few days rest, as we wait for Rylan (my son) to join us for a few weeks, Ryaln is going to ride with us from La Paz to Lima, via Lake Titicaca and Cusco.

Day 68 – 78 miules in 5 hrs 54 mins

Day 69 Monday 24th March 2025 Patacamaya to La Paz

Woke up to a bitterly cold morning, breakfast in the sparse room, both of us looking forward to staying in a nice apartment in La Paz, breakfast cold porridge and frozen chocolate. Inching to get out the door and get riding, but had to wait 15 min for the light to get better.

Same again today stay on route 1 all the way to La Paz, though expecting it to get very busy as we enter the city.
Both of us all layered up, even the little stream adjacent to the road was frozen. Had to keep the legs moving to stay warm, not a bad thing, also takes your mind off the miles. Once again a nice view of the snow capped mountains as we hurtled towards La Paz, think the only thing that was making us go faster was the thought of having a lovely hot shower and shave.

Stopped in a tiny village, not much was open but Bingo managed to get a soft drink for us, then a guy came over to open up his store, gave us a Grape fruit each and then wanted to give us a 2 litre bottle of Orange, thanked him for the Grape fruits, but said we could not carry the soft drink.

Carried on, then hit the outskirts of La Paz, to be perfectly honest it was disgusting plastic litter just dumped by the side of the road, wild dogs roaming around, occasionally giving chase and barking like mad, very scary. We stopped and brought some bread and cheese, sat on an old railway sleeper just looking at the about of rubbish around, something really needs to be done about it.

Then the nightmare began, the run in to La Paz, possible the most scared I have ever been on a bike, traffic coming from every direction, beeping their horns, cutting in from either side, belching out exhaust fumes, it was frightening. Went through the open air market area, it was chaos, venders running into the road trying to sell their wares, with the traffic crawling past then, I just followed Bingo, think I had my eyes closed most of the time, going up in between the traffic, to add to this it then started to rain, not much, least it suppressed the dust. Just as we turned off the main highway to head in to down town La Paz, the hail stones started, mate the size of marbles bouncing of you, they hurt me, Bingo just shrugged typical. We then took refuge outside a builder merchant office, as they had a canopy, the lovely girl in the office, let us come in and shelter, both of us dripping wet.

The hail stones stopped, rain carried on, just went for it the last 4 miles, all down hill great, except of the traffic and how steep the down hill was, road was tarmacked once I think many moons ago, pot holes all over the place, made the roads in Kent look superb. With the water cascading down the road, it felt more like surfing than riding, we where like two drown rats, when we arrived at the apartments, managed to get booked with the help of the caretaker, think he looked a bit shocked when we rolled the dirty bikes in.

Was so good to get out of the wet cycling gear and get into the power shower luxury. The afternoon spent sporting out all the kit, hanging the tents, sleeping bags out and doing a big laundry, nice to have a proper washing machine, the kit really needs its.

Relaxing evening, just walked up the manic street and went into the first noodle place we could find, big fill up of food few beers and bed, plenty of time to explore the city.

Day 69 – 60 miles ai 6 hrs 23 mins

Days 70-72 Tuesday 25th until Thursday 27th March 2025 La Paz

Reflections after 4000 plus miles

Like most decisions of great consequence, our plan was settled in a pub, pint in one hand, after a Sunday morning ride, you up for this South America malarky, both said a firm yes, why I will never know. This was early 2024,no need to fret ages of time, Bingo was tasked with sorting out visa and vaccination requirements, I was tasked with sorting out some sort of route. First decision do we start in Texas and finish in Ushuaia or visa-versa, me always after the big fanfare said finish in Texas, have all the family come out, so that’s how that was decided nothing scientific or looking at prevailing winds or other riders routes etc. Good news on the visa front only need the ESTA to enter the USA, no other visa required, vaccinations; Rabies, Yellow fever, Hepatitis A & B, Typhoid, we got all these done at a local vaccination clinic. Indicative route all sorted, flights booked. Just need to determine if we will do this for a charity and if so which on, this was easily resolved, older brother, Steven (the editor who sorts out this jumble of words), stepped in with the authority of an elder brother, yes you are and it’s going to be Slide Away, well that that sorted.

The Tour did not get off to the best start, but we can leave that behind, when the bikes finally arrived, both Bingo and I had gone feral in Ushuaia. We finally left Ushuaia on the 15th January, seven days later than planned, but hey ho time is only an abstract principle and we don’t plan!

Little bit of reflection on the first 4000 plus miles or a third of the epic journey, after crossing around 9 International borders and a similar number of cranky immigration officials, we are into the 6th country, there have been more border crossing because we keep going in and out of Argentina because of our love of the country or more importantly its easier to get an ice cream there.

Argentina:

Is, vast, impressive, bold and memorable, in terms of land mass 8th biggest in the world and 2nd only to Brazil in South America.

Loved the country and the people, massive divide between the different regions, the affluent and the ethnic minorities. Struggled with obtaining cash in certain areas, but that was probably down to us not doing enough research, as the currency is very volatile Most towns have a street named General Belgrano and a placard claiming the Malvenos as Argentinian, never once felt threated though, but maybe they should move on.

Chile:

Only spent 5 days in Chile, the terrain was Patagonian, possible even harsher, than the Argentinian side, especially going through the San Sebastian border area. The hospitality we received from the Chilean people was brilliant, though they did seem a lot more reserved than the Argentinians. Pity we only spent a short time in Chile, but we wanted to visit other countries on the Atlantic side of South America, before crossing over to the Pacific coast.

Uruguay:

From the moment we crossed over the border near Fray Bentos in to Uruguay, the atmosphere changed the Uruguayans are so laid back, you can tell they take great pride in their country. As they are sandwiched in between the two biggest countries in South America, make a point of saying we do it right, from what we seen they certainly do.

A very clean tidy country, with people who will go the extra mile for you, thoroughly enjoyed our little jaunt through Uruguay.

Brazil:

Came into Brazil through the border towns of Rivera (Uruguay) and Santana do Livramento (Brazil), like most border town it can give you the wrong impression of the country. The further north we went in the state of Rio Grande do Sul, the more we understood the Brazilian culture influenced by the immigration of German settlers, very few tourist come through this area, making communication quiet difficult. The first thing we both noticed, was how easy it was to get food, every village had a buffet style restaurant, both loved them. Though the people where very surprised to see a couple of old blokes on bikes, they certainly gave us all the help we needed.

As we headed north to the Iguazu Falls (Iguaçu in Portuguese), we certainly settled into the Brazilian laid back culture, currency, food and hostels were very easy to obtain with minimal fuss, though we only cycled through the three most southern states of Brazil, a very nice experience with a wonderful blend of culture. Iguazu Falls amazing so glad we spent a couple of days in Foz do Iguaçu right on the Argentinian, Brazil and Paraguay border, visiting the falls.

Paraguay:

Very different from its neighbour Brazil, with its street vendors, all along the road selling everything, it’s obvious that a lot of the Paraguayans live below the poverty line, but they strive to be happy and content with what they have, willing to share what they have with complete strangers. It was also evident that multi-national agricultural companies have moved in turning a lot of the land over to soya bean plantations, not sure that the profits from this actually reach the people who need it the most.

Bolivia:

Will always be remembered as the country where we started the serious climbing, the street vendors very similar to Paraguay with one striking difference, the women selling their wares festooned in bowler hats and traditional pollera skirts of vibrant colours. Very strange to see them clad in their traditional dress, then chatting on a mobile phone, bit bizarre, to say the least. we found it difficult to eat enough, all the way through to La Paz, the portions are very small and very little variety in their diet, notwithstanding that very, very polite and gracious people most of the time.

Obviously La Paz was different, especially in the tourist areas, food was plentiful, however the locals did not have time for the hordes of tourists, they seemed to just want to get on with their lives, don’t blame them to be honest.

Day 73 Friday 28th March 2025 El Camino de la Muerte or ‘The Death Road’

And now there are three Bingo, Gringo & Ringo

Well what do you do in La Paz on a rest day, when Ringo should be acclimatizing to the altitude, sod the rest day let’s ride the El Camino de la Muerte or ‘The Death Road’, Bingo and I had all ready sorted the ride, picking us up outside the apartment at 07:00, Ringo has to get used to the early starts. Another thing he needs to get used to is Bingo porridge, I seen the way he looked at it this morning and it was a posh one with yoghurt.

The deal was they pick us up, sort some bikes, helmets and stuff out, drive us to the top of the mountain, then the three of us and a guide (Huelo) ride down, 1st section is tarmac (10 miles, 2nd section rough ripo (28 miles), good that there was only the three of us in the group. The mountain was at 15,500 ft (4680m), with a cracking view over the surrounding mountains. The guide warned us of the freezing temperatures, however the sun was shinning, still cold but not freezing, with a little ride around the car park to get used to the brakes off we set, following the guide at a steady pace, fairly easy what could go wrong. Nice easy first 10 miles, stopped for a few pictures of the rugged mountainous vista, Huelo, said this would change dramatically, as we enter the second stage and the Bolivian Amazon, the contrast between the two areas was remarkable.

As we turned off the new road onto the old road ” El Camino de la Muerte or ‘The Death Road’” This was the only road up and to 2018, now its mainly used by motorbikes, cycles and the odd 4*4 vehicles, plus the traffic that supplies the gold mines. Weirdly its the only road in Bolivia where you drive on the left, signs everywhere warning drive on the left, this was a throw back to when buses and trucks used the road, the vehicles coming up had the safe side against the cliff! Huelo: gave us a little pep talk, just be careful, take extra precaution when next to the sheer drop, he will ride behind then draw level with us go in front take pictures, videos etc.

Few last pictures and we are off, down the ripo track, really difficult to see how this was a road, barely any passing places and when you do see them there is an incredible shear drop, pretty scary. You can feel the humid hot air rise from the valley, where the jungle taken over the whole mountain side, interwoven with the mountain as its one growing organism. Waterfalls cascade down from the jungle above impossible not to get a cold refreshing shower, unless you are prepared to go right on the slimy edge, not for me preferred the shower. Every now and again you will see a small memorial cross on the side of the road in memory of a poor lost soul, who had gone too close the edge, the jungle hides the rusted carcasses of hundreds of toppled trucks and cars, you can just make out a few, that have not bounced all the way down the canyon, eerily morbid.

Huelo sped past us a few times to capture the ride down on video and as we navigated through a recent landslide, thick mud splatting all over the place, all of us loving the freewheel as gravity is doing all the effort, very welcomely so, as the long vertical drop that flanks the track seem to get worse! As we were speeding down the track, for some reason I had got in front, not intended I can assure you, a little cabin came into view, at first I though they where saddles hung up outside, infact they were safety harnesses for a “Zip Wire”, we all stopped outside, Bingo straight in the shack ready to ask if it was open, but the girl had a pet rabbit on the counter so that took his attention, photograph for Charlee of course. Huelo explained the process 80 BOL (roughly £8), you go on the wire about a mile, then they give you a lift back here, immediately we all said lets do it. Guy put the harness on us all, Gringo & Ringo opted for superman posture Bingo went for the conventional posture so he could video it. What great fun and an added bonus we all loved it.

As we reach the lower section we all relax a little let the wheels spin faster and faster the temperature rises, clouds evaporate, multi-coloured butterflies dance and flutter around, birds of prey fly high above us, fetching purple flowers on the side of the track and plantations growing illicit drugs on the hillside (just my imagination I have no idea what they are growing) cloud my peripheral vision.

We are soon soon coasting through a village towards a little bar and the end of an incredible ride, couple of beers then they drive us of to another hotel for lunch and a swim.

Very long day but loved every minute of it, 12 hours all told from the time they picked us up till when they dropped us off. Will write a great review for them “Evolution Adventure Travel”

Day 74 Saturday 29th March 2025 La Paz to San Pedro de Tiquina

After a tough long day yesterday, we were uo at 6, need to pack the bags, breakfast and clean the apartment a little as we had both bikes in the shower, as well as a load of bike maintenance in the front room, all looked spic and span my the time we had given it a once over. Taxi picking us up at 8, just taking us out of the city centre.

All sorted in plenty of time, got the bikes and bags out on to the manic main street, strangely named 16th July, no idea why! Loaded the bikes on top of the taxi even the taxi driver took a picture of it, maybe for insurance reasons, who knows all the gear in the boot. Off we go through the congested streets of downtown La Paz, been a strange stay, but like the quirky aspect of the City and the people very nice, especially the Air BB owner and all the guys from “Evolution Adventure Travel”

Taxi dropped us off at the beginning of Route 2, on the way to Lake Titicaca and the little town of Tiquina, what we did not know was, we still had another 15 miles of urban sprawl before we got out into the countryside, a lot of stop start horn blowing some times think their horns are connected to the brake pedal. it was a pleasure to get out of the city, nice road now eating up the miles, as Lake Titicaca came into view.

Ringo chose the meal stop, row of tents by a football pitch, not much on the menu just trout from the lake and a few vegetables, managed to get some rice, pasta and potatoes, not the best but needed some food, ate that and back on the bikes. Heading for a little ferry across the narrowest bit of the lake, steep descent into the quaint village Tiquina, straight onto the barge, guided by the captain, across the wonky planks, within 5 mins we were motoring across the lake, took about 15min, then off the other side upto the Hotel that young Ringo had booked.

Hotel was like an old manor house backing on to the lake, very quirky and we were the only guest, Andre the host made us very welcome, asked us what we would like to eat, thing got a bit lost in translation as Bingo had the trout, Ringo and I had omelet with nice potatoes and salad.

Another long day in saddle, so an early night for all.

Week 11 Into Bolivia

A reminder of our Charity – Slide Away

“Slide Away’s vision is for every child in Kent to have access to bereavement support which acknowledges their grief and experience of loss following the death of a relative or friend. Slide Away offers support to children and young people in Kent who have been bereaved of a family member or friend and those who have a parent or sibling with a life limiting illness”

Slide Away
The Slide Away Bears enjoying the altitude

Here’s how you can donate to our charity Slide Away. The simplest way is to go to our Just Giving page.

And we have the QR code as well …

Once again a big thank you to everyone that has contributed.

Day 61 Sunday 16th March 2025 La Marmora to Tarija

Got sorted into the home stay place finally was a bit strange bit like it was their parents place and they had died ! Not nice but better than sleeping in a field. Nice cold shower to boot, just what we needed.

The bar was a bit manic in the afternoon, but quietened down later, we was the only ones in there, good spread of food and a few beers brilliant.

Bingo had prepared the gourmet breakfast, with the yoghurt we finally was able to be purchase yesterday, from the translator lady. Tried to stealthily leave the home stay just after 6 in the morning, as we said all the goodbyes last night, unfortunately they still had Bingo’s passport so we had to, wait a bit, after he had finally managed to retrieve his passport, we then had a few pics like you do.

Massive day of climbing ahead heading towards Tarija, quite a big city, actually booked a place to stay, getting a bit to organised, don’t worry it will not last! Big climb straight away just taking it easy, nothing rushed, still in the tree line in the morning, eerily pretty as we wander up the mountains. Little waterfalls cascading down, lovely, only trouble was we was trying to pump these bikes up stupidly steep gradients. Every now and again you get a little respite only to think all the time we are going down, we will have to go back up. Nice Stopping every once in a while, usually overlooking a river or a nice view, wave to the drivers they give us a friendly toot, luckily the road is very quiet and the drivers surprisingly courteous. The dogs are worse, barking and chasing you up the road, it’s difficult trying to go a bit faster up a mountain, Bingo shouts at them “get out of it” scares be it’s that loud, one even took a bite out of his back pannier, will need mend it tonight.

Stopped for a cold drink and a packet of biscuits each, need to fuel the engines, in a dusty little town Padacya, very helpful. Then just rode and climbed all day long, few little stops one particular nice place overlooking a gorge, think it was around La Ventrolla ( once again my every diligent ed will sort that) I am laying in tent writing this, with no beer I might add) Anyway back to the saga.

Tarija is that big kept seeing signs saying only 10k to go, not according to the Garmins more like 10 miles, it’s pretty off putting at the end of a very tough day .

Finally made it to the luxurious Hotel Cava 95, lovely hot powerful shower done all the washing few beers bight to eat and bed, even more climbing tomorrow, but that’s another day, like to see James Bond cycle up here, on that note good night.

Day 61 – 60 miles in 6 hrs 13 mins

Day 62 Monday 17th March 2025 Tarija to near San Lorencito

Decided to have the hotel breakfast in the morning and do a bit of bike maintenance, so a delayed start. We both knew that another difficult day in the saddle, with the added bonus of high altitude, we need to be weary of that.

Left the very hospitable staff with wave and the obligatory selfie. Just before we left got the great news that Baden Powell had received his “Giro Por Las Americas 2025” shirt, not only a Snowdown Colliery Welfare Rugby Club “Ultra” he is a Bingo & Gringo “Ultra” respect mate you totally deserve it.

So off we go bit later than normal, navigating the dusty busy streets of Tarija, once again climbing bit difficult through the roundabouts and traffic lights, but out soon of the city sprawl. Out of the tree line now so struggling to give the scenery the poetic description that I so eloquently describe yesterday, once again self praise is no praise at all. But least is gave me something to ponder as we slowly climbed and climbed. Kept thinking this is ridiculous when I get older going to get a motorbike, that’s how my super hero Ernesto Che Guevara did it on an old Triumph, in the 1930s [Eight films have been made about the life of Che Guevara: here is a list. Dale is probably referring to The Motorcycle Diaries (2004): Ed]

Breaks are becoming more and more frequent as we break through the 7500 feet or 2000m of altitude, not much in the way of respite or shops for that matter, as we literally plod up the mountains. Eventually came to some sort of checkpoint , basically all the soldiers did was move a cone every time a vehicle came up to, placed it exactly back in the same place, the girls selling flat bread relocated the same manoeuvre just like a tango dance. We watched this for ages one because it was funny, but more importantly needed the rest. On we go with this massive climb just up and up, but guess what in my struggles to put one foot over the pedals, just started singing up in the atmosphere up where the air is clear (except when the lorries pump out their obxious fumes) let’s go fly a kite, some song that just popped in my little brain, well it helped a little, every bit helps.

We stopped ove looking the incredible road we had just rode, then low and behold my phone rang, would you believe it, you can’t get a signal in Canterbury, up here, in the most remote part of the Bolivian Andes had a chat to the family as clear as day, lovely then a superb Condor gently swooped above our heads, then just as quick glided off, probably the smell we was giving off, but a great sight.

Feeling good after the family chat spurred be on for a little while, eventually made it to the top of the main climb of the day, with no-where to stay, we glided down to a small plateau, came across a little village brought some tomatoes, onions, garlic to spice up the pasta dish Bingo was plannings, me I was after some beer, after circling the village to no avail, looks like its a dry night then, probably for the best as we had reached an altitude of 11000 feet (3500m) so we need to be careful.

Two very tired cyclist pulled off the road and found a flat piece of ground to put up the tents, just after half 5 in the afternoon, it gets dark around 7, time to set up camp, Bingo to do his cooking stuff, fair play I did help prepare the vegetables, then eat the lovely pasta dish and bed, as it was getting pretty chilly.

Another tough day.

Day 62 – 33 miles in 5 hrs 38 mins

Day 63 Tuesday 18th March 2025 near San Lorencito to Carmago

Both had a reasonable nights sleep, in the tents, not surprising really as we where both really tired, however sometimes the altitude can upset your sleep, as we are now over 11,000 ft (3500m), you can definitely feel the lack of oxygen, when you are putting the work in. It was also very chilly, coldest we had witnessed for a while, it rained last night not hard but, the tents were very damp.

Bingo sorted out the breakfast, cold porridge and chocolate, packed all the tents and stuff up, not good putting damp tents away, but did not have time to let them air out. Hit the road just before 7, with three layers on and gloves, with a morning of climbing then a few descents, heading for a little town El Puente around 20 odd miles away, find a cafe, have a coffee and plan the next part of the day, well lets see how that worked.

The layers started to come off as the sun started to rise, climbing was not so vicious as yesterday, but still tough, just grinding through them. Then started a fairly long descent into the little town El Puente, stopped in dusty little cafe, no coffee so just a soft drink and a chocolate bar, studied the maps and decided to head for the town Camargo about 45 miles away, maybe a tough ask, but plenty of places to stay.

Headed up the valley, looking out at the ragged landscape, rolling hills most of the way, with the odd really steep bit, that makes you work, just gently moving on no rush, trying to conserve what little energy we have (not a lot at the moment), we need to eat, but not much on this road, so just munched on so dry biscuits, until we came to a little village, still no cafe, so had a soft drink and chocolate in a bus shelter, checked the maps, just over 20 miles to go, tough going. Legs feel like jelly now, trying to get them going as we move on looking for anything remotely like they will serve food, with around 5 miles to go a little shack on the side of the road, had a chalkboard outside, lets try this. Happy days managed to get a plate of pasta and cheese, Bingo had the same with the meat sauce, made us feel so much better, celebrated with a cold beer, as we only had 5ish miles to go.

Gentle rolled the bikes into Camargo, found a quaint little hostel with grape vines in the courtyard and a very welcoming host, I asked for a beer, while Bingo was sorting the bikes out, next thing I know he is leading me down all these little streets to a shop, think it was his brothers, anyway got the beers, when we got back Bingo said where have you been, just smiled and gave him a beer. Did all the washing and hung the tents up to dry, away from the guys precious courtyard

Even more trouble with my bike, need a little bit of work down on the front derailleur, the nice host showed us where the bike shop was only 5 min walk, took my poorly bike down to the shop, he took the bike said come back tomorrow, we was expecting that as it was nearly 6 in the evening.

Little bite to eat the, then bed, plan some more routes in the morning before we pick my bike up again.

Day 63 – 70 miles in 6 hrs 8 mins

Day 64 Wednesday 19th March 2025 Carmago to Potosi

Not a great nights sleep last night, sure if was just not eating enough yesterday or getting used to the altitude. Probably a mixture of both, we really need to ensure we eat during the day, as we both find it difficult to eat enough at night, considering concentrating on eating rather than drinking until we get used to being up this high.

Had breakfast at the digs nothing special, but nice coffee with flat bread and jam, that when we made the decision to have half a day off, waiting for my front derailer to be replaced. Spent the morning relaxing as best as we could, well it is a holiday as Sandra often reminds me. The very nice host was really helpful, suggesting places to stay on route etc, came in and told us that unfortunately the bike would not be ready until 15:30. He knew we wanted to move on as we was meeting my son Rylan in La Paz, half an later he came back I can get you a lift to the next town for 150 BOL (about £15 with all the bikes so we took him up on the very kind offer.

Had another logistical nightmare getting all the bags and Bingos bike to the bike shop, but managed it. I looked like a local as I lugged 4 bags down the winding lanes, Bingo soon caught me up pushing his bike with my valuable and tool bag hanging of his handle bars, honest that was the easy bit.

Loaded my bike up and headed to the taxi place, well what Pedro the host did not mention was we were sharing the lift with 3 other people! The roof rack all ready had a load of gear on it, but no worries, tied the 2 bikes on the top, lashed them down, then just about fitted all the luggage in as well as a suitcase case from another passenger. It was a tight squeeze in a little 6 seater Toyota, that had seen better days, but we are off, with one of the other passengers handing out fresh peaches which are very much in season here, very nice and juicy.

We made it to the Town Potosí, the silver mining capital of Boliva, just before 8 in the evening, unloaded the bikes in a chaotic street, trying to keep a tab on all the bags, no issues, just think it was us being a bit cynical, bikes all loaded up, said thanks to the other passengers and driver, all so helpful.

Lights on lets make our way up the cobbled streets to the hotel, only about 3/4 mile away, that was more luck than judgement, but you need a bit of luck sometimes. Found the hotel, all booked in with ease, straight to the restaurant to order some food, told you I was concentrating on the food now! then a beer. Had the best meal we have had on tour so far, really enjoyed it, Asparagus and Mushroom soup, followed by Pasta and Omelet, Bingo had roughly the same with loads of meat, both loved it.

Now time for bed.

Day 64 – 115 miles by van

Day 65 Thursday 20th March 2025 Potosi to near Lenas

One the posher digs last night, so made use of the facilities, had breakfast at a reasonable time around 7 then hit the road.

Another massive climbing day, we reckon we will do well to get 50 miles under our belt. First we had to get out of Potosi , not too difficult as we had booked the Swanky hotel on the right side of town, soon on highway 1, with a double day planned 120 miles to the next town Challapata, with very little in between, another night camping right up in the mountains going to a cold dry night hopefully with respect to both the beer intake and the weather.

First few miles just steady climbing nothing serious, but still going up all the time, stopped for fresh water filled the bottles up and strapped another 4 litres to the bikes, we also have water purification kit with us, should we need it.

Both of us looking out for mining activities going on, it’s in the blood, few old settling ponds nothing more, all activity must be on the dark side of the moon, sorry mountains. Really hope we are on the sunny side as we twist an turn upwards.

Not much in the way of food / drinks stops today, just one in a pleasant little village Torata D, sat on bench in a very pretty little square, interacting with the locals, amazed that we had got there, never mind the climb in front of us

Thankfully not much traffic just the odd van and diesel belching trucks, they are vile, black smoke pumping out, it’s hard enough getting enough oxygen in without all that, no idea what they mix with the fuel, it smells disgusting as well.

The amount of plastic rubbish up here is disturbing, seems that there is no infrastructure to dispose of it properly, bit like the rest of the world really. Education should be mandatory for all the big conglomerates Coco Cola etc. Thats me on my soap box (recyclable I might add). Also got me a bit further up the mountain.

Not much on the animal or bird front maybe it is all the pollution, some little marmot things, definitely smaller than their Argentine cousins though [probably Mara or Cavy: Ed].

Just kept getting tougher and the weather closing in the higher we went. You could hear thunder all around us, first a few drops of rain then a full blown hailstorm, mate they hurt as they bounced of your head, we took a bit of refuge (not litter) under a cliff edge put some more cloths on then continued. Luckily the storm soon passed on, made us think we do not want to be putting the tents up in a storm.

Had an apple on the side of the road, while we checked the maps, reckon we have 4 miles to the summit, both agreed we had that in us, so off we went. Then surprisingly both owned up when we reached it and said we was done then, maybe it’s a macho thing!

We found a ring of dry stone walls about 50 yards from the road, ideal hopefully keep the wind off us a little. Was only 4:30 in the afternoon but so tired. Put the tents up and both got sorted, Bingo cooking me preparing the vegetables, and just chucking them in the mix, spoiling Bingo’s gastro delight, but tired and hungry and it looked like it was going to rain again. Had two sittings of lovely food, then to bed just after 6.

Finally done 48 miles and finished on an altitude of 14,000ft (4250m), another really difficult day.

Day 65 – 42 miles in 6 hrs 20 mins

Day 66 Friday 21st March 2025 near Lenas to Challapata

Man it was so cold last night, went to bed with thermal long pants, thermal sweatshirt, thermal socks and a bloody hat, just did not get warm all night long, Bingo was the same, frost on the bikes in the morning. But a clear sky, made for some stunning views over the Bolivian Andes, Bingo had his Bunsen burner fired up firstly for coffee, then for porridge, did not fancy cold porridge this morning, I still had all the thermal gear on! We had two visitors this morning, firstly a tiny little mouse crept through the drystone wall to give his regards, then secondly just as we finished breakfast the local Shepheard (Christino) came over to speak, obviously a lot lost in translation, but he seemed very pleasant, so had a few pics then said goodbyes and took all our rubbish with us.

As we started off, it was still only 4 degrees, really cold, I had 5 layers on trying to warm up, another solid morning of climbing to do then hopefully a long decent into Challapata, with a planned stop at a place called Cruce Culta, all being well.

Little bit of downhill, mate that was cold, but preferred it to the climbing, 1st climb of the day, not too bad, but this altitude does take it out of you, when we got to the both stripped off a few layers, I still kept my leggings on, but took off the bandana, that was a mistake. Felt the cold fresh air on my forehead, which is big now, because of my receding hairline, it was like I had brain freeze, same as when you eat ice cream to fast, so soon put that back on. As one of the symptoms of altitude sickness is headaches, did not want to confuse myself, which is easily done, we have both suffered a few dizzy spells so need to be on the lookout for any indications and do not do the macho thing and hide it.

Very lumpy morning, but with the sun breaking through made it seem a lot better, even after a cold nights sleep, just resting whenever we need to, get your breathing steady, as we made steady progress towards Cruce Culta. Starting to see lots of domesticated lamas now on the mountain sides, with traditional clad women shepherding them, well trying to, they seem worse than sheep.

Finally made it Cruce Culta, had a packet of biscuits each and a drink, no need for fridges up here, not much else going on in the dusty village, now it’s full steam ahead to Challapata, nothing booked up, but we think we will be there around 3, so plenty of time to sort some digs out, famous last words. According to the Garmin, we had one more climb todo ,then a 30 mile steady descent, still keeping at just above 13,000ft (4000m).

For once the garmin was correct, to be personally honest they are very accurate, you just have to know how to use them, most of the problems I have is “operator error”. Not a lot to see just a winding road cut through a valley with the steep Andes on both sides, following a river, which later on was dammed to form Represa Tacagua (Tacagua Reservoir), just outside Challapata.

Went straight into the centre of town, same as normal people and cars all over the place, managed to find a hostel pretty easily, nice feeling getting booked in shower and freshen up, makes you feel brand new again.

Need to rest, find a supermarket to replenish our supplies and eat and eat.

Day 66 – 81 miles in 7 hrs 20 mins

Day 67 Saturday 22nd March 2025 Challapata to Oruro

Still really hungry, had some porridge in the morning with loads of honey, but really need to sort out my eating, last night I was dreaming of eating anything, so made a decision going to eat meat if I have too, I just need the energy. Said to Bingo this morning, I will eat anything now, just chop it up in small bits I need to eat, can’t carry on like this, hopefully it will get better as we travel further up, just love a bit of lettuce now.

Left the hostel in the still of the morning, just as it was getting light, me already dreaming of eating anything, long straight road today, heading for the city of Oruro, even that sounds like a chocolate biscuit, shows how my mind is going, next I will be looking at the road kill feast.

Off we head, just rolling along, pan flat today which is a bonus, just eating up the miles, no towns on route as such just a few small villages, which will not have anything to support two super athletes burning up the tarmac (more of that later), me scrounging around the side walk, looking for anything to eat, I am serious, think I may need a food parcel sent out. Bingo has all the chocolate stashed away, me dreaming how can I get into that, plan A get in front then say I need a break, all sorted least I got a bit of food, also had an apple, gracious for small mercies.

Carried on going up through the valley with salt plains either side of us, still thinking of food, not keen on salted fish, tried that on the last big tour, best thing you can do with salted perch is play table tennis with it, even Bingo could not eat it in Uzbekistan! Least that took my mind off the hunger games, just a play on words.

On we pedalled, no wildlife as such even on the salted plains, stopped on the side of the road, had some rations from Bingo on the chocolate front, I thought I had pulled a wizard out of the hat packet of Bolivian crisps, just like the old days with a packet in them, not salt some sort of vinegar, not nice and took all the moisture out of your mouth, so feed the animals, with the crisps things and kept the plastic wrappers, as good travellers do.

Making good speed, traffic not so bad, you get the odd one, who comes a little bit close, but overall pretty good, the worst are the dogs, they scare the hell out of me, my little legs pumping like a good one as they chase and bark after you, Bingo had another one take a bite out of his pannier today, sorry he just has not got the turn of speed I have when you are in danger, think I am knackered get a Steven King lookalike dog Cujo running after you, I am off, like a bat out of hell, enough of the film / song references, get on with the saga.

Sat on the bridge just by a lovely village named Poopo, salty marshy river with a guy fishing for table tennis bats or salty perch, had the rest of the biscuits, then Bingo comes up with a lovely stat, less than 20 to go, what he forgot to mention was the lack of road surface, so the last 20 miles was 18 0n the “Ripo” unmade road.

It was fun bumping around all the traffic trying to keep a line, while the trucks belched out their obnoxious fumes as we headed into the city of Oruro, dust and grime everywhere, the plan was to stop a few miles just before the digs, but it was that manic, just pedal on, finally got to the junction, Bingo shouting at me it on the right, just managed to take the turning, then hit a more traffic, just went up the middle of both lanes, till we hit the dirt road to the hostel. Relax booked in with a rather miserable receptionist, can’t put your bike there, I paid the bill, then put the bikes there! with a smile, she soon came around.

Good day on the bikes, also plenty of chatter about family coming to visit us, meet Rylan in a few day in La Paz, the plans afoot to meet Charlie and Lyle later in Ecuador.

So good night, Bingo cooking a six egger feast tonight in the hotel what can go wrong!

Day 67 – 75 miles in 6 hrs 45 mins

Week 10 Heading West

Day 54 Sunday March 9th 2025 Formosa to Palo Santo

Nice early start, both itching to get back on the bikes, not from the bed bugs I might add! Even had a kettle in the room so had the luxury of coffee with the porridge and bananas, got the bike down the stairs from the 1st floor, then loaded them up with all the bags. Getting very fit but skinny now, can’t lift my bike when its fully loaded, still pretty dark, but was so excited to be back on the road off we went, navigating through the back streets of Formosa, with a cunning plan, either stay at a place called Pirané after 60 odd miles or crack on another 20 odd miles to Palo Santo, depending on how we felt.

Great early morning ride, with an overcast day forecast, possible raining later on according to the Bingo our expert meteorologist / ornithologist. Smashed the first 4 hours of riding, keeping up a good speed, with the traffic nearly non-existent and a flat road made for good progress. Bingo also had a productive day with his ornithology charts two new spots this morning, White Monjito (Xolmis irupero) and Jabiru (Jabiru mycteria) he was well pleased.

Stopped after 4 hours riding, in a tiny village with a little shop open luckily, though they did not understand my Spanish, sure they speak a local dialect in some of the remote areas possibly Andean Spanish, whatever it is they dont understand my near perfect Andalucian Spanish (it’s very poor). Managed to get a large bottle of a soft drink and water, but struggled with asking for the cups, so we went without.

I knew Big Dave and my brother Steven were out on their bikes, so took a long shot and whatsapp called them, sure enough they were in the pub “Two Sawyers” (would not happen on my watch) had a great little chat with them both and the added bonus of Ray the original weatherman Skelton, being there, great stuff.

Cracked on, within no time we needed to make a decision, easy really still only early crack on and head to Palo Santo, no sooner had we gone past the junction, the heavens opened so what we are enjoying it, feels quite nice and keeps you cool. Just kept going until we reach the Palo Santon, pull into the service station and have nice cup of coffee and a horrible sandwich, check out the first place to stay, no room at the inn, not looking good, as the rain is coming down harder now. Don’t fancy camping in the rain, but we may have to, the next place has no telephone number, but only 3 minutes away, so ride up to the place, all sorted in no time at all, booked in and in the shower, before the guy changes his mind as we are dripping water all over the floor. He just smiles, said pay me later, we will this time.

Day 54 – 87 miles in 6 hrs 15 mins

Day 55 Monday March 10th 2025 Palo Santo to Las Lomitas

Booked into the digs soaking wet, the proprietor great guy said I would come and pay him, after we had cleaned up a bit, typical Argentinian guy flip flops and Messi shirt, very accommodating, went back to see him, said we would rather pay by bank transfer if possible. What a palaver, even he got the hump with it in the end, then just popped in the next room and got a card reader, room all sorted only cost £10, then asked us if we wanted to have cash back, top guy, got another 40 thousand out (£40). He said the restaurant down the road opens at 5? if not he will order a take away for us.

Off we go down the road fully laden up with Argentinian peso bring on the food, to no avail; typical Sunday evening in North West Argentina, none of the restaurants open, well there was only three to be honest, went back to the digs and got the very nice guy to order us a take away, Pizza and chips, but wont be here till 8pm as normal. Ended up watching the rugby on catch up, with a few beers, so not so bad after all, but was very hungry.

Breakfast as with no yoghurt or chocolate, rainy Sunday yesterday no provisions, left the digs just after 6, but need to wait 20 mins in a mosquito infested bus shelter for the light to improve, message to self need to delay the start till 06:30 now! As soon as we got going, the things don’t bother us, they probably think, not going near them blighters, smell worse than a dead rat!

Same again today, push on, have a target destination Las Lomitas circa 97 miles away, big ask but these puppies are up to the task we think, also in mind is getting some more Peso, so on the look out for any ATM or Banks, chance would be a fine thing but you never know. With the light getting better, and still a little overcast with a few spots of rain, made the riding conditions perfect, made excellent progress again in the morning, honest the porridge is not infused with any other substances, just pure grit and determination. We hit the first little crossroads down to a little town Bartolomé de las Casas with an ATM, down a ripo road and only 07:30 in the morning, both agreed to press on. Flying now my new group set working like a dream, the little electric motor humming away with not a care in the world only joking like I said earlier all done on the Atlee Avenue Puppies.

Just as we was purring along Bingo spots a Mob of Rheas playfully trotting along the undergrowth, first time we have seen them in a long while, but very nice, love the way they just nonchalantly wander around the pastures, just like Bingo and Gringo really. Pushed onto the next possible ATM (this is very important) Comandante Fontana, this time we went for it done the dusty ripo roads, people looking what they doing here, you could hear them say, getting some dam money i was saying!, finally got to the bank, it was open and got money as simple as, whats the problem, I don.t really know, but it is chaotic to say the least.

Back to the road, and ride, ride, ride little country song by Lynn Anderson, getting set up for Texas here we come, not quite just me getting carried away with myself. Just a ride to Las Lomitas now concentrate on the now Dale, as my Mum always said to me.

So that’s what we did, good solid ride today, not much after the Rheas, just one to add to the collection and low and behold the bird of the day on Bingos app Black Vulture (Coragyps atratus) and some great interactions with a few groups of Gaucho’s not sure who is surprised the most when we meet them, couple crazy guys on bikes and some cool dudes on horses with a pack of very well trained dogs, great to see.

As we tranquilly rode into Las Lomitas, like two modern day Gaucho’s, riding the town like we owned it, well it was Sista time everyone was in bed! had a beer in a little corner shop to get our bearings, then headed to the digs, all sorted but nothing open till they all wake up again.

Great ride just over 100 miles, good going with these beasts, plenty of life left in these old puppies yet, just need a little Sista myself, aint going to happen.

To much work to do getting the routes sorted and having some refreshments.

Day 55 – 101 miles in 7 hrs 8 mins
Jabiru
(Jabiru mycteria)

Day 56 Tuesday March 11th 2025 Las Lomitas to Ingeniero Guillermo Nicasio Juárez

Think the most difficult part of this tour is getting enough to eat and making sure we have enough cash to pay for it, the cycling is the easy bit!

Same again last night, tried to eat in the bar, nothing for me on the menu so went for the normal chips and eggs, Bingo had a big Milanao thing with salad and chips, his came out fine, mine was just the eggs, something lost in translation again. Bingo offered to go halves on his chips and salad, (he so looks after his older brother) but we had just done 100 miles on a bike we need to eat, so I finished my eggs ,then went next door and had egg and chips. Bingo is going to need to get his bunsen burner out again, I need some pasta.

Have breakfast in the room, nice mix of banana, yogurt and porridge, then try and pay for last night meal in the morning, never a good thing try and pay as we go all a bit of a mix up, but eventually sorted it after we got the manager up! They tried to get us to pay for the room, that we had paid online.

Then got going, only for me to suffer a puncture in the first half a mile, you can imagine the language (sorry Mum) and there was no sheep to blame! (reference 1st tour Durness to Dover 2012) Young Cathal Bartolo was distraught, but he is a good young lad from solid stock, thanks for the donation young-un, could do with your wheel mate. side tracked a bit there, best get on with the saga.

My the time we eventually got going it was coming up for midday, only joking 7 in the morning, with another epic ride planned today, we’d best get a move on. The plan if we have one is to pedal, how far is anyone’s guess, couple of options in mind ride to Chiriguanos, get a bit to eat, then push on another 30 miles to Ingeniero Juárez, few places to stay there.

Just one of those days where you just knuckle down and ride, constantly looking out for any new birds or animals, the road is very good with light traffic, makes for good ridings, just not a lot happening on the road, pushing the miles out, trying to eke out any stops we can, first one after 35ish miles a little Indigenous village Pozo del Mortero, quite sweet place, got some strange looks as we had an ice lolly and soft drink outside the one and only shop, everyone was very pleasant and nice, just a little smile and a wave, nice.

Off we go again, just riding hard and strong, both feeling good and fit bring it on, as I was day-dreaming down the road, spend most of my time singing / daydreaming about all sorts of crazy stuff, Bingo shouts whats that down the road a couple of Black Vultures gorging on a road kill, well he has to investigate, blimey its a snake about 8ft long, think it could have eaten me, if it was alive, makes me think great got to do some camping in the next few days, that will be fun.

Kept going loving the mixture of wild horses, few donkeys, sheep, goats and very strangely pigs just meandering down the side of the road all looked pretty relaxed and contented, one pig made a little go at trying to cross the road in front of Bingo, that made me chuckle good match that not sure what the outcome would be, but would be fun watching it, kept me going for a good few miles.

Soon called for another stop we need some food, pretty much how we are all the time really, come to Chiriguanos, we was thinking of stopping here, but not a lot going on, eventually found a little shop, so sat outside it with a soft drink, bag of crisps and a packet of biscuits, yes the high life again, the lady in the shop tried to sell Bingo a massive sausage, thats not a euphemism he settled for a bag of crisps, wisely in my opinion. As we sat outside the little shop a few of the locals came and had a little chat, which was fun and nice, time to get going.

Last 25 miles no stops just full steam ahead, just got going I was head down riding Bingo spots a massive lizard (2 foot long) obviously I did not see it, too busy blurting out Oasis numbers, so decide to concentrate now, really not one of my best traits, usually have the attention span of a chocolate tea pot according to my late Father, always a good judge of character. But there you go I did, finally spotted something before Bingo, though I said it was a rabbit with skinny legs, he did spot both of them I only seen the one, then sternly corrected me, it was an Agouti (Dasyprocta), bit like my Dad, would have done all those years ago, wonder where he gets that from.

Finally entered Ingeniero Juárez, settled for the second hotel we saw, first one was a bit out of Town, all sorted very quickly, lets get a shower, few beers and eat, need some food glorious food, not chips and egg!

Day 56 – 100 miles in 7 hrs 42 mins

Day 57 Wednesday March 12th 2025 Ingeniero Guillermo Nicasio Juárez to Coronel Juan Solá

After a 100 mile bike ride yesterday, we decided to gun the bikes up again, without all the paniers just lights, as the restaurants are a couple of miles away if they are open. After a lovely shower and a few beers to relax, we set off for the restaurant, still light at 7pm, but gets dark really quickly, the first place we come to was open so thats the place, obviously my favorite. Nice food as well, pleasant change even had pasta! Really nice meal, still think they were a bit shocked on how much we ordered, but left nothing! Then cycled back to the digs in the dark, we had lights, that’s better than all the little motorbikes they just go where they please. Back at the digs just before nine great, need to rest these weary puppies, get them ready for another day.

Same old thing in the morning, breakfast then the nice chap offers us some water, saves a ride to the petrol station in town, off we set, then another puncture after two minutes. All sorted and dug the wire out of the tyre, hopefully that should sort it. Then just ride baby ride, on to Coronel Juan Solá, another one horse town, or should I say pig now as there seems to be a lot of feral pigs around for some reason, not sure why.

Still on the route 81, nice road with very little traffic, but pretty boring as we turn over the miles, not even a petrol station or shop for 50 odd miles, so stacked up with water on we trundle. Just a working day on the bike, looking out for any animals, birds snakes anything, nice little urban fox, just nonchalantly looking at us, trying to make out, what we were doing, looked in good shape though, plenty of chickens so not short of food, he is better of than me. Had a little break sat on the stools, by the side of the road, eating an apple and watching the world go by, very slowly

We actually cross the border from Formosa province into Salta province, nothing changes, but we get a nice fresh bottle of water from the border patrol, not sure what they are patrolling, but they are very diligent and pleasant, could have been waitresses the way they served us the fresh water, good on them.

Another little village in 18 or so miles so will try and get something to eat there, nothing can go wrong, just pedalling away at our hearts content, now there are loads of little lizards darting around the road, tails curled up, first I thought they were Scorpions, but lizards they are, I have been assured.

We arrive at Los Blancos, not much of a place but decide to delve into the delights of this wonderful village, rode down the dusty street, looking for anything that resembles a shop, nothing doing, until we spot a little veranda down the sidewalk. We hit lucky again, Gonzalez as in speedy, which he was not, but his hospitality was brilliant. Set up a little picnic table in his shop, for us to have a sift drink and cheese and tomato baguette, spot on, all his other customers just looked, I could hear him say Chicos en bicicleta desde Ushuaia a EE. UU., desde Inglaterra, Londres “Guys cycling from Ushaiua to USA, from England, London” they just looked a bit bewildered! Said our goodbyes to Gonzalez few pics and got him on the Instagram page, then off we go.

Just a little jaunt to Coronel Juan Solá, nice and easy pace after the big lunch, we are not used to that, but very welcome it was, another little dusty town in North West Argentina, with one potential place to stay, all sorted straight away, nice little set up with a communal kitchen, that dinner sorted then.

Spent the rest of the afternoon planning our escape into Boliva, but sometimes be carful what you wish for, least the roads are pretty good here, you never know.

Day 57 – 77 miles in 6 hrs 14 mins

Day 58 Thursday March 13th 2025 Coronel Juan Solá to Embarcación

Bingo did his cooking thing last night, he is a good un, needs to keep abreast of the perishables, we cant have the vegetables going off, while he was busy cooking, I did the most important task, went down the village to get some light refreshments in, me always doing the essential tasks. Once again a lovely feast, needed two sittings, mainly because the bowls are not big enough, lovely washed down with a few wet ones, let you know that was my contribution.

Day break is definitely getting later, we are gunning for the off, but need to wait till 06:30 at least now, as we set off through the pot holes and sand, only for the first 1/2 mile, still made have a few choice words, could not see a thing, not sure if i was hitting pot holes or dead dogs or any animal for that matter, was glad to get back on the highway.

Another day riding better than working that’s what I say, when we get the puppies all oiled up its all systems go, takes us two old diesel engines a bit to warm up these days.

Off we go on the same route 81, bit of a strange route today, head North West until we hit the intersection with Route 34, then go South West ? just for 20 odd miles, all to do with a border crossing in a few days time. Ride and Ride, next to no traffic which is good, but not a lot going on, including the animal bird watch, so we just stooped through the first 35 miles with ease, then headed to the little village of Dragones, what can we find here, not much, but a happy guy selling stuff from his house, made us so welcome, came out with the Argentinian version of Bing, (Soft drink from yesteryear) that’s appropriate, great guy got all his mates involved selfies all around.

Infused with what ever was in the drink, frozen “Mate” I think, but it got us going, pushing the legs to the limit, what with yesterdays Gonzalez offering us Coca leaves, they do reckon they help with altitude sickness, think I need them for my attitude, then this stuff, going to stay with the beer, least I understand that I think.

We are flying now, all systems go, coming to the next village, had to swerve around the a flock of Goats as we entered the small village of Hickman, sounds English, but certainly did not look like it. Not sure how we found the little shop but we did, managed to get a normal soft drink and some cheese rolls, that the guy kindly made up for us, we look around, too many stray dogs so opted to ride on and eat the rolls later, said our thanks to the nice guy, and off we went, sat on the stools on the side of the road and had a little picnic, such a good life.

Another 25 miles to the junction so full steam ahead with a cheese roll and some weird stuff pumping around my veins let’s rock, the songs were come fast now, as we headed for the junction of route 81 to route 34, that’s the highlight of our day.

As we approached the junction crossing a disused railway line, still with the rails of some sort, noticed a little kiosk, so had a little break, not long mind you, a poor little injured dog came up to us, obviously be run over poor thing, on its last legs and smelt worse than Bingo, not good, but made us move on.

Last 24 miles into Embarcacion, bit of a bumpy road to start with, but then got better, with a little bit more traffic, than we have had for the last few days, but nothing we can’t handle. The view to the left was of the Andes mountains, here we go again from tomorrow, bit of climbing, bring it on.

Found a nice hotel, just inside the Town, all good, lovely shower wash the kit and eat, eat eat, with a few beers.

Day 58 – 94 miles in 7 hrs 18 mins

Day 59 Friday March 14th 2025 Embarcación to Bermejo, Bolivia

Lovely meal last night in the place next to the hotel, I checked it out earlier to get some more refreshments, the girls behind the bar, said they loved English men, we will soon see about that, but I did promise them a tango later. Sorry to say that did not materialise, nothing to do with too much Imperial beer, more like my puppies just could not handle it.

Breakfast at the hotel in the morning, giving Bingo a day off serving me, more accurately it was larruping it down, so decided to enjoy the comforts of a Hotel breakfast, not much to right home about but nice coffee and orange juice.

Hit the road just after 07:15, still a bit dark and raining but off we go, heading to Boliva, sixth country, not hitting the border till about 50 miles in, not sure how the crossing will go, so the plan is get to the border, then see what happens.

Not many animals about, with the rain battering us, basically holding on for dear life some times, with the traffic getting too close for comfort some times. Luckily we turned off heading due North on route 50 all the way to the border, first 30 mile were great dual carriageway lots of room, so all good, stopped at a so called petrol station, yes they sold petrol, but nothing else, so went over the road, to a little kiosk, got a couple of soft drinks and kept out of the rain.

Got back onto the route 50, single carriageway so not so good, but rideable just keep going, rains not easing up but once you get going, its fine, just edging our way to the border, through some weird and wonderful places, possibly over egging the wonderful sometimes but hey ho. Did cross some nice bridges over the rivers Rio Blancho and Rio Bermejo at least twice, maybe three times.

Just get to the little village before the border crossing, stop have a little drink and a packet of biscuits, building up the Dutch courage to cross the border, you never know what’s in store. We had nothing to worry about, not that we worry, just difficult to judge how long it will take, this one Argentina to Bolivia all of ten minutes and most of that was explaining what we are up, all good stuff, we had both the Argentinian and Bolivian officals in stitches, think they may have been taking the mickey out of my “cockney Spanish” but who cares we are into the sixth country.

Had a chat on the junction, decided to call it a day and head for the Town Bermejo and find some digs, well that was exciting, first skipped passed a mile long queue for a petrol station, don’t think they was getting ice creams, then straight through the market, it was chaos, people and stalls all over the place, but very lively. With Bingo’s guidance we managed to get through to the posh part of town, found a hotel, that probably looked great in 1930’s, it’s got character, all booked in for the night less than £15, did look like an old prison somewhat, but good enough for us and it certainty will not stop us moving on tomorrow.

All booked, went to get some Bolivian boliviano currency, had a bite to eat ,then relaxed in cell block H for the afternoon, sorting out the next few days climbing and riding.

Day 59 – 58 miles in 4 hrs 36 mins
Rio Bermejo

Day 60 Saturday March 15th 2025 Bermejo to La Mamora

Sorted some Bolivian boliviano currency out, also managed to change over both the Argentinian and Chilean peso, so rolling in the dosh now, went down town Bermejo, tried the fresh fruit district, got some apples and bananas, then moved onto the supermarket district, not much of a supermarket just loads of stalls selling all sorts managed to get some cereal could of brought a sack of it and some yogurts. Walked past the same place we ate at this afternoon, good service so went in again, they was so pleased to see us made us very welcome. lovely people made me up a sin carne vegetable mixture with lots of spices, really nice, Bingo had the proper version with all the meat, lovely meal, great people what could be better.

Breakfast in Slade prison this morning, the place just looks like it was once a prison, Mr MacKay would not let us out till 06:30, not the normal prison grub ( not that I have ever tasted it!) we had yogurt, banana and some biscuits that i found in my bag, been there a while, but tasted great.

Off we went with a big days climbing ahead, Boliva is one hour ahead of Argentina, so it was pretty light at 6:15, Barraclough let us out for good behavior, another first for me. Not sure where we are heading just North, looks like a camping night, unless I can work the magic. Never mind that we have to get out of Town first, they are all setting up there stalls again, must be Market day everyday, very hectic as usual just followed Bingo in and out the stalls and all the people setting them up crazy, but quite good to see.

Finally got out of the market area, then its in the petrol station queue, same as yesterday at least a mile long! and it was not even open, on we went going back on yesterdays ride, something we try not to do, but needs must.

Then just 60 miles of up hill some parts stepper than others but 90% going up, get in the right gear and ride, the road was great and the traffic very light, so what more can you ask for.

Scenery has all gone forest now, looks natural and very green lovely change, mist hanging low over the Andes, as we start the climbs, feels good working the legs and getting through the miles, my brain had a bit of a hissy fit, as the time kept changing on the Garmin, between Argentinian and Bolivian as we hugged the border, just turned it off, on the same road all day so what.

Bingo now looking for some Mountain birds / animals not much spotted except for a superb Crested Oropendola (Psarocolius decumanus), these all go down in his little notebook you know. As an afterthought he then mentioned, as we was on the 38th switchback and I could hardly talk that he thought the Parakeets are different, spent a while in the trees then came back triumphantly yep they are need to check them out but definitely darker green, turns out it was a Scaly-headed Parrot (Pionus maximiliani) well done.

Had a few stops, watching the river, then on a bridge as the confluence (Lipeo River joined the Bermejo River), nice stop in the mountains, then carried on riding. Not a care in the world, expect where are we going to sleep tonight, worry about that later, just pedal and pedal. Stopped at a little shop, think we was the first customers this year, but managed to get a soft drink, Bingo did check the sell by date just for a laugh, not sure why as we had already drunk it. With 15 miles to go at 10% climbing stopped again lovely lady served us I though I had ordered a Chicken sandwich and an egg sandwich, we got two egg sandwiches not a bad result, but we could not finish the soft drink, gave her a tip and the big bottle of pop, she was well happy.

One big effort then we are done for the day, about 5 miles out we go through a little village El Pinal, looks like they have a place to stay, we stop go to the busiest place Residencial y Restaurante Doña, I think they have a room for us but not sure, all got a bit lost in translation, all sorted chatted to the lady in the kiosk next door, she came down and did the translation from the local dialect to Spanish, all booked in and paid, though it took an age. Ended up with a suite of rooms over the restaurant for £15 bargain.

Good days riding tough and hard but thats how we like it, even got some WIFI in the end, fair play to the mighty SCWRFC, just got beat in their semi-final, well played lads credit to the village.

Good night.

Day 60 – 61 miles in 6 hrs 28 mins

Week 09 In Paraguay

Day 47 Sunday March 2nd 2025 Juan Emilio O’Leary to Coronel Oviedo

Bit of a mismatch with the meals last night, very strange transit town, had a beer with plastic glasses where the locals hang out, met a few lively characters as normal, strange how we always meet up.

Then struggled for a decent bite to eat, Bingo had a burger, i had a big bag of crisps, that’s what athletes eat. made up for it the morning with the rocket fueled porridge, chocolate and honey, ready for a serious days riding in Paraguay. We really did not know what to expect, but so far the roads have been excellent, the people nice and friendly always asking where we are from, its changed to London now as they seemed to know that better, always the cheeky cockney, from Attlee Avenue.

Left the dimly lit hotel / boarding place just as the sun was rising, lovely smell on the side walk, some sort of flowers or herds reminiscent of the wild strawberries down pond lane, just outside Aylesham for the non-locals, but really nice, kept my sprints up for a while, they are always up, except when I am thirsty or hungry.

Just kept riding on the great roads, stopping every now and again, for a fruit lolly and soft drink,. we have now got into the fruit ice sticks lovely and you can dip then in your soft drink, makes play time so much better.

Just eating up the miles, the scenery is not much and the wild life is virtually non-existent, they have probably eaten everything around, not good, but you can see that it’s not so affluent as the other countries, but they make up for it in so many other ways.

About 6 miles from our designated finish , Bingo got the first puncture of the day, man it was hot, as we sorted it out in no time at all, had a look at the Garmin temp was 47 degrees Centigrade, that was in direct sunlight, that’s what we have been riding in, 5 litres of water drunk!

Ambled into the town came to the first petrol station, trying to get some food, nothing really on offer, so did my best Spanish, low and behold she understood me, down the road 1.5 k then on the right, if that’s what I thought she said, man dead right. it was like we arrived at the Anchor in Wingham, live music on, cold beer on tap and a table full of food, sun always shines on the righteous, the sun has been shining today.

Few beers, trying to eat as much as we can, but always find it difficult at first, the beers help though, check the maps, hotel just over the road.

Ride over there lovely girl on reception understands my Spanish again, get the room sorted and a lazy beer, nothing can go wrong. All sorted good ride in very, very hot conditions.

Day 47 – 72 miles in 6 hrs and 02 mins

Day 48 Monday March 3rd 2025 Coronel Oviedo to Ypacaraí

Another day another hotel, both woke up this morning, thinking where did we leave the bikes, just a little panic thing, it’s an older generation condition, just took me a while to get my orientation, down the metal staircase by the pool.

Sure enough they were all safe and sound, obviously we take great care of the bikes, but staying in so many different places, its difficult to remember sometimes, well for me it is. While I was being busy fussing about the bikes, Bingo was doing the proper work, making the chocolate, yogurt infused porridge, with the added bonus of a banana, top man.

Left just as the sun was rising, with the lovely herbal smell in the air, (will get my efficient editor to try and find out what is, smells like something we have in the garden of England [Any chance of a photograph? : Ed]). Anyway it makes for a nice feel for the days riding, heading towards Ypacaraí, just on the outskirts of the capital Asunción, not sure how busy the road will be, but if yesterday is anything to go by it should be fine, nice road with a big clear hard shoulder to ride.

Once again not much on the animal, bird spotting front, just loads of termite mounds on the side of the road, the vegetation is getting a bit sparse again and it will be like this for a while now, but enjoy the good roads while we can. Made really good progress through the early morning, putting in the miles on the open road with very little traffic, what a pleasure. We both knew that the ride would get a bit tougher later on but enjoy the good times while you can, just a few gentle climbs at the end of the day, nothing to write home about.

Little descent into Ypacaraí, I get stuck behind a truck with no brakes heading towards the escape lane (big sandpit) his hazard and horn blowing like mad warning the traffic he has no brakes! Managed to squeeze past the truck, with the help of some considerate drivers, gave them a little thumbs up, they responded with a casdade of horn blowing brilliant, finally met up with Bingo, his words where the f*** did you go, I just smiled and said on an adventure.

The adventure was not finished, so us intrepid travellers get it wrong again, both cruising into the town, turn right here, yep I say, as we head down the sandy road (not a song), the sand just got deeper and deeper, cant be that bad its only for 1/2 mile, hardest of the day.

Finally found the hotel, with a lovely drive straight of the main road, good bit of map tracking by me, I will take full responsibility of my total incompetence, but it was fun looking at the locals as we struggled down the track.

Always a bit of fun, lovely digs, little pool and a truck cafe adjacent brilliant, we cant get everything right.

Day 48 – 59 miles in 5 hrs 20 mins

Day 49 Tuesday March 4th 2025 Ypacaraí to Clorinda

Not a great meal last night, thought the buffet would be open, so strolled up there at 7, only to find it closed . Hey ho just have to make do with a cheese and crisp sandwich, bingo had the famous pit pasties .

Bit of a change of plan, always going to be like that, decided to go back into Argentina then enter Bolivia from there. According to our calculations it saves a couple of hundred million miles (Police song) and a bit of climbing, we will see.

So the first part of the plan was a bit of a disaster, whose idea was it to ride through the capital city Aunchion in rush hour, well that would be me then. Very learly to say the least, been through some dodgy cities, this is up there with the best. Just gripping my handlebars as tight as possible, trying to hear Bingos instructions, with a loud chorus of motorbike and car horns playing their melody. Right in the middle of this we suffered the first of many punctures. Maybe I should read a few more blogs to see how the professionals do it, or do what us Sunshine Corner lads do and just blag it.

Finally recognised a district, as we were playing the traffic now, just get your space and let the wait, sign said 10Ks to the bridge, honestly my little mind went 6 minutes miles I can do that I think.

Sure that when we went over the route yesterday, bit of a crap road, then a nice bike lane to join the bridge. My head spinning with trying to remember when the turning was, about 2 miles I thought just keep singing and riding, great when it happens you under egg the distance we are on the road to” the Héroes del Chaco Bridge” not sure who they are, but they made a wonderful cycling lane over the Paraguay River, it connects the City’s of Asuncion and Nuevo Asuncion. Nice to see they have thought about two mad blokes from Aylesham needing to cross this busy river.

Still Paraguay at the moment have about 6 miles to go to the border, going to be manic, but the traffic will be slow so just ride on.

Sure enough it’s crazy from about 3 miles from the border, Bingo at the bridge just ride against the traffic like the motorbikes do, eye eye captain just followed him, we sweep past miles of cars and trucks.

Wheeled our bikes to the first kiosk passport all sorted, went to the Argentina side, all done in a minute, that’s a result.

Rode into the border town of Clorinda
same as most border towns, so stopped for an ice cream, cold drink and coffee all very civilised. So this is where all plans go out the window. Place seems full of lovely hotels, not really what we are looking for, it’s only just after 12:30 let’s ride to the next town, bearing in mind we have not had a beer yet, sure let’s go.

Another great plan, what could go wrong, about forty degrees dead flat road we will do the extra 24 miles in no time, well we did it in a time, but that’s only an abstract thought according to “Red Dwarf “ funny how I like the Dwarf stories, probably something to do with a beer in the Anchor after playing Thanet, that hurts dwarf throwing not the Rugby.

Back onto to the cycling or lack of it after five punctured, bingo has booked the starlight rooms in Laguna Naineck

Not something we normally do, but time was pressing on, so after a little chat, I rode on to the digs, while Bingo repaired his many tubes. Bingo soon got some help from a group of Argentina farmers took him up to their barn and had the inner tubes sorted in no time .

What could go wrong with me just pedal and pedal in the soaring temperature, my mind go mad thinking I reckon I will be there in an hour and quarter, cyclists know don’t look until then, result had a quick peek at the Garmin less than a mile to go.

That’s good now I need to find the place, no problem stop in the first bar and ask, mate I was there straight away, got some cold provisions and pin dropped Bingo , he was half an hour away.

When he stopped in the petrol station they told him I was at the hotel, very hard humble again, lovely people and wonderful hospitality again, so many nice people in this little world of ours .

What a day, that’s why we do not plan to much.

Day 49 – 52 miles in 6 hrs approximately

Day 50 Wednesday March 5th 2025 Clorinda to Villa General Manuel Belgrano

Up early in the morning, scratching around the rooms, we had a suite of rooms. Before you think here we go again will describe the suite, with four rooms, but only one door, three widows without any glass, two musty beds with an on suite if you can call it that. But it was a place to sleep and free (or so we thought) more about that later. As we slipped out of the digs, the main inhabitants still noisily scraping around, not sure what they were small mice I think.

Leaving the dusty streets of Laguna Naick Neck, onto highway 86 headed towards General Manuel Belgrano, not sure if he is the same guy, but every Argentina town has a Belgrano street.

Not feeling great myself, just a dodgy stomach nothing a few litres of water won’t cure I hope. Very quiet road, with nothing but scrub land and what looks like palm oil plantations, not great but it’s the huge corporations that make the money out of it, certainly not the locals. Always good to have a rant, makes you feel better, but did not cure my stomach upset unfortunately.

Did not even stop for lunch, I was on hunger strike now, just loads of water, have to keep hydrated, so they say, replenishing the water bottles at every opportunity, with 20 miles to go, we pulled over to a hardware store cum Arkwright place, bits and pieces everywhere, including a fridge. Just sat on two chairs by the fan drinking as much as I can. Was feeling a bit better so it must be working, Bingo gives the order to get going, with a cheasey smile, another stop in ten miles then roll it in.

The 10 mile stop never materialised or we missed it, think I was just peddling, but the rest of my body was asleep. In one of the rare moments I actually said anything today, we must be coming up to the stop soon, Bingo laughed said it was miles back, but did not see anything, less than two miles to go.

Then it happened front crank just spinning on the bottom bracket shaft, tried to pack it out but looks serious. Had chat, best Bingo pedal off, sort the digs out, I will push my bike the last mile or so.

Met Bingo on the corner, well he spotted me looking at my phone for inspiration no directions or both, as we both walked to the digs, for me it felt like walking the”Green Mile” as in the film Tom Hanks film.

Well the prognosis was not good, the splines on the aluminium chain ring had rounded off.

What we going to now then! Have a shower, rest up and look at the options.
To be continued tomorrow, very tired need to come up with a plan.

Oh nearly forgot, well the free digs where not free last night, Bingo got a not to pleasant text message saying we had done a runner. Well the charming lady I spoke with last night, was not the owner, we should have paid up at the petrol station, no wonder she did not want paying.

Least of the problems at the moment, just looking for solutions.

Day 50 – 63 miles in 6 Hrs – missing the first bit from Clorinda – Garmins off?

Day 51 Thursday March 6th 2025 Villa General Manuel Belgrano

Did not sleep great, but that’s not surprising, with all the things running around my head, well what’s the plan ! Good question spotted a hand written sign just up the road saying “reparación de bicicletas” not sure about it but we walked the bike there, guy had a look at it just shoock his head and said no parts . Pretty much what we expected but worth a try.

So the plan was to get Charlee (Bingo’s daughters ) to send the part out to us and as a back-up Kristian (Nephew) back in the day a world class cyclist to boot, to source a part and send it down from Austin Texas. According to DHL / FedEx websites they could get it here within 48hours.

If only it was that simple, it certainly wasn’t, Charlie tried but they couldn’t guarantee delivery until middle of March, so knocked that idea on the head, but both of us know how hard Charlee tried and really thankful for her sterling work. The same can be said for Kristian sourced the part, but same difficulties getting in sent down to us. Thanks for your efforts Kristian.

So plan xxxx go to the coach kiosk and see if we can get a bus to a bigger town, with all the bikes and baggage. Bit of luck, little slither really, we can get a bus tomorrow at 10 am to Formosa, big town with around 10 bike shops, the bad thing it’s 150 miles in the wrong direction!

Spent the afternoon kicking stones around this one horse town and doing some research on the bike shops, even sent them some messages. Bingo tried to cheer me up a bit, got his bunsen burner stove out and created a culinary masterpiece outside the frontdoor of the digs. It was massive had to have two sittings, devoured the lot, much to the dismay of all the local dogs who had been sniffing around.

Honestly I ate so much could not have a beer, stunned silence.

Day 52 Friday March 7th 2025 Villa General Manuel Belgrano to Formosa

Next morning push the bikes to the bus kiosk, was an hour early but wanted to get the tickets sorted etc all done then had a coffee in the petrol station over the road, been here that long we are locals now on first name terms. So we got on the bus gus, 4 hour bus w* again but so be it, needs must.

Very difficult with your head going backwards but thats what us adventurers have to do, I really wanted to get this quote in somewhere so here we go “many will call be an adventurer and that I am… only one of a different sort: who risks his skin to prove his truths” Ernesto (Che) Guevara. One of my all time super hero’s dont worry I have a few more up my sleeve. Forgot where I was now as I more into superhero mode.

Yes we finally arrived in Formosa, unloaded all the gear, then headed for the first hotel, by our standards it was bleak and that is saying something, my sister Deborah even asked if we had bed bug spray! We are both that quick the blighters can’t catch us I hope. Dropped the bags off in the infested place (it probably was) and headed to the afor mentioned bike shops. Little bit of a trek to say the least, but us intrepid travellers ploughed on, first one closed, few bad words by me sorry Mum, 2nd one closed but least with an opening time on the door, an hours wait. We’ll have a beer and wait, which we duly did, me a bit edgy said come lets go with 10 mins to wait, sure enough the guy was there opening up, great. Not so great when he just looked shock his head and said not here mate “aquí no amigo” think I might have said bollocks then! But held my composure and asked him anywhere that would be able to do it, nice as pie he said yes guy around the corner about 400m away “Un chico a la vuelta de la esquina, a unos 400 metros de distancia” off we trudged. Sure enough the guy was there, had a shop full of old bike parts, looked at my poorly bike and my sad face, he had to fix it. Within ten minutes he had a new chainset and bottom bracket, laid out for us, top guy, I said go for it, bit of chatter then agreed to come back tomorrow at 10:00 to collect, for 60,000 peso, about £30.

Well I must say I did feel a bit better, but still apprehensive, least it was not a fix completely new parts, much more encouraging.

Took the long trek back to the flea infested hotel (thanks Deb keep thinking about that now), with a view to eating posh tonight. Lovely meal, though we did surprise them my turning up early and waiting like a scene in “Oliver” it was worth it though.

Decided to change digs (because of my ever loving sister), so in the morning we had a bit of a logistical challenge, but nothing we can’t handle.

Day 53 Saturday March 8th 2025 Formosa

Morning Bingo said you want any breakfast, I said NO! lets get out of here, which he totally agreed on, except with the words how we going to get all this gear to the new place with one bike, easy, taxi-rank over the road, put bags in that and you ride to the place. Also a bit of another school boy error we book the new place 3 miles away from the bike shop!

So I got a taxi with all my bags, as Bingo cycled there, when we got to the new place went to pay the guy only had Paraguayan currency “Guarani” luckily he took that no problem, get did get a good rate mind you. All sorted in the new place, off we go to pick up the bike, just a little stroll through the urban streets of Formosa, into some nice bits, then some not so nice bits as we marched on.

I was a bit nervous as we entered the shop, the proprietor sitting on a stool trueing up a wheel, gave me a toothy smile, “Hola Gringo, ¿cómo estás? Ya tienes tu bicicleta lista” basically your bike done. Took it for a little spin all seemed good, Bingo brought some more puncture patches off them as well, left with a few pics and firm handshakes here we go again.

Back to the non-flea infested digs to have a pleasant afternoon watching the 6 nations and hearing how the mighty SCWRF got on, they beat Cranbrook away to leave them one win away from winning the league, fair play to the young lads respect.

Just one last thing before we re-start our crazy ride again tomorrow, still need to sort out a route, but it is just following the bus, but not in it!

Thank you so much everyone for the fabulous support, I know I have said it before but it is been inspirational, it has been greatly appreciated and a special mention for all those who have contributed to the beer / food kitty, you have been very kind, we are feeling your support all the time and it been so welcome thanks to the following for their generous support :-

Baden & Stevie Powell
Dave & Nade Austen
Dennis & Hayley Price
Billy & Tina Plews
Carl & Mandy Moses
Steve Plews (Dambuster Inn)
Ray & Debbie Skelton (True athlete)
Mick Howarth (Bull Fossils & School mate)
Tony Westcott (Chatham dockyard long long time ago)

Thanks from Bingo & Gringo

A special thank you to “Bicicleteria José Fernández”, Formosa, Argentina for fixing my Bike

Week 08 To the Falls

A reminder of our Charity – Slide Away

Here’s how you can donate to our charity Slide Away. The simplest way is to go to our Just Giving page.

And we have the QR code as well …

Once again a big thank you to you all.

Day 40 Sunday 23rd February 2025 Frederico Westphalen to Maravilha

Bit of a palaver last night, hotel did not have a restaurant, we had no Brazilian things or currency is a better word. So first we grab our bag for life (still looking after the environment during our travels). Set off for the ATM Banks and supermarkets Saturday night dancing, very frustrating all six banks had ATMs but none of them working, even the locals had a little moan & completely forgot about the supermarket!

We ate in a road-side restaurant, then quickly moved inside as a quick thunderstorm passed through, pretty normal now, sexy rain! Though the walk back was a bit difficult in the flip flops, only have cycling shoes or flip flops sliding down the bank all good fun, ended up doing the supermarket stuff in the petrol statiion right next to hotel, could have saved a 2 mile walk, but got to keep fit.

Another days cycling as we set of in the early morning mist, good Bingo sorted the digs adjacent to the road to love, or Iguaçu Falls they are all the same.  Steady away as we get used to the road and traffic, lots of climbing today, which is not a bad thing if your old jalopy is running fine ( cheers Doughter all going ok at the moment).

Very humid with a few splatters of rain and a gorgeous rainbow to the left, years ago would of pedalled off to get the pot of gold, wish I still had them legs, only got the smiley face left of those far flung days, but still have a little twinkle left. Best get onto the cycling bit, just went up hill all day really, but some lovely scenery, especially as we crossed the first the Rio de Varzea, stopped on the bridge and took a few pictures of the turtles basking in the morning sun, Bingo also claimed a sighting of a piranha fish – not sure about that.

Its a pleaure to ride in nice countryside, just riding away not giving a dam of where we are, big butterflies overtaking me going up the climbs, but all good, songs flowing legs turning what more do you want on a Sunday morning, possibly a game of football for the “Bull Fossils” that’s long gone, after a great game of rugby for the mighty Snowdown CWRFC the day before, thats when I was fit.

Just kept going then crossed the massive Uruguay River again , the bridge was a bit leary so did not stop to take any pictures, but enjoyed the flat over the 2 miles bridge. Stopped just after the bridge had the same rigmarole with the cards but got through in the end, just for an ice cream and soft drink, but the people are quite pleasant now, just do not know how to work the card machines.

Next little town Cunha Porã, they have a few banks lets see if we can get any cash out? So a nice little ride through the hilly Cunha Porã visited every bank no luck, so carried on with this merry ride. Bit of a new road systems going on, so the Garmin had a hissy fit, probably related to me so what, soon got on the right road, after we tried to help a stricken motorcyclist his chain had jumped off, we did not have a big enough spanner to undo the chain tension, but waved down a digger driver who had the right tools, so left them to it, always good Karma to help people.

Just rolled into Maravilha, nothing booked, but we knew there was a place on the main road, Bingo spotted it, just rolled in with a lovely gentleman waiting at the entrance, said they had rooms a plenty, so my first response was, lets have a beer, then sort the rooms out.

All done very easily, no restaurant, but we have a cunning plan (Baldrick still not here) Bingo going to cook in the room, while I toss it off by the swimming pool, sounds like a plan to me.

Great meal, we needed to eat the food we was carrying so all worked out well.

A massive thank you to Baden Powell and Brian Meakin, who so generously donated into our beer kitty the drinks was on you two today, thank you from Bingo and Gringo, cheers butts.

Day 40 – 55 miles in 5 hrs 33 mins

Day 41 Monday 24th February 2025 Maravilha to Salgado Filho

Changed the game plan today, after Bingo made the whole hotel smell of garlic, onion, pepper, pasta casserole thing, mind you it was lovely. He set his Bunsen burner cooking contraption up in the hotel room, sent me to the swimming pool (bar really to write this sort of stuff). While he did his galloping gourmet thing (another blast from the past). His excuse was we need to get rid of the perishables, as the restaurant was closed I was half expecting a queue outside the door, not sure which door as I could not remember the door number, just followed the lovey aroma.

So in the morning, decided to have breakfast at the hotel before we set of, Bingo had enough of pampering me. Nice spread, but not what you really want when you have 70 miles of climbing to do.

On we go, leave just before 7, heading for a small town Salgado Filho or something like that, early Monday morning traffic as we set off. Road ok but not much space luckily not an awful lot of traffic as we go on are merry way. Another error – did not download the map last night, probably something to do with busy writing the blog, I don’t think so had a bit to many sherbets more like it. Whatever I never know where I am so it normal, just pedal and we will be ok.

Quite hilly to start with, just grinding out the early morning miles, getting into the rhythm of the days riding, always in your head it’s up hill, so what my little legs say. I am cruising on to wherever, Bingo stopped to a picture of another bird, that some how missed me by (my all accounts it was a Variable Oriole (Icterus pyrrhopterus) even done the Latin word so intelligent, another gem from my lovely Mum self praise is no praise at all, so that put an end to that. Bingo had to pedal like mad, as he knew we had a right turn, luckily I had only just gone passed it! mate I would just be riding around in circles half the time, but with a little smile.

We turn right obviously up a big climb, just get in the right gear and pedal, thats the message I sent down to the engine room, my leg did respond after a slight delay, probably an IT error. Grinding up the little hill, then come to a road works sign, Bingo goes into Chinese mode (we just waved and carried on riding). The workers are brilliant just wave on through the 14% climb, it was great as they held all the traffic back as we did the difficult bit. Then we pulled in to let the traffic pass, they all gave us a big wave and a nice hoot, made us feel good. Got going again then Bingo said that’s the second hardest climb done for the day, me with no map just smiled, bit bravado bring it on. Yes, think I would get sensible in my old age (hope not) sure enough here we go again, my legs in overdrive as we attack the climb, well pedal up it as the sun warms us up, hey ho here we go, more power engine room, no response, ring the bell again more power, thats it, Ok no worries as we meander up and up, all in my head it will get steeper, just pedal, my mind thinking what are you doing you old fool, just be sitting on a deck chair watching the guys climb, no way just pedal, just pedal as we finally reach the submit. Have a little rest not good at the top best to keep going and show you are strong, not now have a rest.

Well thats the two biggest climbs done, now we just have the rolling hills, not so bad few little bumps but nothing serious, first truck stop we see, we are in there like a flash, got used to these now, both of us have the biggest plate of pasta in living memory, mine with a side salad, Bingos with a few chickens etc. All fueled up, only 30 miles to go, just steady away again looking for more birds and wild life, few interesting spots, not by me I might add, first one Red-winged Tinamou (Rhynchotus rufescens), getting tired now so let the ever faithful editor do the latin stuff [done: Ed], looked like a posh partridge to me. Then the very beautiful Guira Tanager (Hemithraupis guira), fluttering about, very nice.

We pulled into a hotel on the side of the road, both a bit weary, maybe another one of them strange places, but all good a guy served us with a cold drink, not an ice cream though, looked at the maps, only 12 miles to go, easy peasy, with the same rolling hills, then down hill for the last 5 miles.

All good we roll in to the pretty little town Salgado Filho, one little hotel, will give it a go, all in with no problem, supermarket over the road, we ride the luck, but you make your own luck.

Few beers having a chat about the ride, basically that was tough, more of that to come, Rylan has confirmed he is flying into La Paz on the 27th March, have a little chat about what he needs to bring, same old, just some legs mate and pedal, if you dont want to sleep with your Dad a tent and a few spare parts for us, great we have a month to sort all that out.

Got to get on with getting some food, glorious food, Bingo went to the supermarket to replenish his pasta making gear, also with some lovely help manged to locate a restaurant, so back in the room getting ready to hit the village, not the proper one I might add.

Well the directions did not go quite as to plan, young guy walking, ask him , yes there used to be a restaurant here but closed, follow me my friend runs a cafe up here. Next thing we know we are like the pied piper, have loads of young kids following us on bikes, its brilliant. They lead us to an open air cafe, everyone is so helpful, end up being centre stage again, it so nice that people can help you and more importantly want to know what you are doing. Even face-chatted the guy’s sister who is studying English at Sao Paulo, she was so envious Lucu was speaking with an English guy! What a lovely evening, as the kids made their way home, we was not far behind them.

Good tough day, but thats what we like, lovely people make it all worth while.

Day 41 – 69 miles in 6 hrs 47 mins
It looked like the photos above could be stitched into a panorama!

Day 42 Tuesday 25th February 2025 Salgado Filho to Capitão Leônidas Marques

Lovely evening last night, very friendly had all the kids following us around trying to practise their English, even had the Mum of “Luca” come over and wish us well, both of us minor celebrities, in this charming village, lovely place Salgado Filho.

Early morning, Alpen mush with chocolate biscuits, that will get us going, remember descending into this charming place yesterday, that only means one thing, got to climb out of it. What a climb straight out of the digs into a 14% 3 mile climb, then a false descent and another 3 mile 12% climb, great just what these rocking legs need.

It was tough so tough, did not think much of the charming village half way up the climbs, but just worked our way up them, slowly and surely, toughest climb we have had so far, they will get tougher, but we will get fitter. Always the positive, easy said when you have completed it, we was both done after the first 10 miles, sat and had a coffee and a cold drink, just looked at each other both thinking what have we done, its going to be long day.

It did get a bit easier, but the first climbs just ruined us, my legs felt like jelly, just dig in and pedal, not much said, just bathed in sweat, our bodies glinting in the morning sun and the aroma enough to kill a thousand flies, as we work the road as best we can.

Not many pictures today both too tired, (those dammed kids keeping me up all night) just concentrating on keeping the bike moving, it was difficult to go past any shop, petrol station, but needed to keep going. Got the halfway mark made us feel a bit better, ridiculous times but so what, cold drink ice cream and refilled the water bottles with fresh water, felt brand new, bring it on, well that lasted ten minutes.

Just kept tuning the pedals, putting the work in, every mile gets you closer, to be fair we was rolling now, so did feel a bit better, both of us thinking about a massive pasta dish at the next truckers stop, we have these places sussed now, find it quite difficult to eat, but it does you wonders afterwards, bit like a beer with less than 10 miles to go, but I never find that difficult. We stopped for lunch in the next truck stop around 20 miles form the finish, massive pasta and salad for me, Bingo has the same with a lot of meat.

Feel great now push on for the last 20 miles, pretty leary as the road has got a lot busier, very little hard shoulder trucks roaring past us, not good, can’t relax at all, but eating up the miles as we dodge the trucks.

Last 10 miles, we know we have two climbs to go, but nothing serious, so stop for a bit of refreshment and a beer, we have deserved it, as we are sipping the beer you can see the first climb in the distance, just over the Iguazu River, makes me feel like having another beer, which we duly do.

Final bit today, get in the right gear and do the final two climbs of the day, no worries nothing like the early morning one, just a gentle teaser, or the beers fueled us them, probably the latter. No digs booked but have a few places in mind, rocked up at the first one all sorted. What a day, hard riding, but feel good now, little rest then out for the biggest meal in living memory.

We was not wrong with the meal, what a lovely lady, just plate after plate of food, bless her, as we tackled the mountain of food, she came up to us and said sorry we are closing in 10 minutes, no worries, Bingo goggled translation thank you so much for your hospitality, she was over the moon and deservedly so.

Back to the digs for an early night.

Day 42 – 65 miles in 6 hrs 48 mins

Day 43 Wednesday 26th February 2025 Capitão Leônidas Marques to Matelândia

Getting spoilt now little breakfast in the hotel, as the breakfast opens at 6, Bingo did not want to crack open another porridge packet, so it was cornflakes, yogurt, bananas great stuff no boiled eggs though, Linney would have been disappointed.

Here we go again, basically just like yesterday, climb a bit, then repeat & repeat, though the climbs were nowhere near as vicious as yesterday, just gentle 5% climbing, which is OK.

Not much going on with the wildlife I am sorry to say, few squashed snakes and other dead things, but nothing bouncing or prancing around, maybe because I can’t see out of my sweaty glasses, even my garmin gives up the ghost because I am dripping on it constantly. We are loving it has the 70 tonne trucks roll past us, blenching out diesel fumes, as we wobbled on hard shoulder, they still give us a friendly wave and a toot.

Same old today, getting close to the falls and the border with Paraguay, bit of research required tonight re-getting the best out of the falls district and passing into Paraguay.

So thats it folks just one of those days on the bike, rolling out the miles in the sun drenched Brazilian wildwest, what could be better.

Day 43 – 66 miles in 6 hrs 30 mins

Day 44 Thursday 27th February 2025 Matelândia to Foz do Iguaçu

Just a little 50 mile ride to The Iguazu Falls district today, planning on visiting the falls on Friday.

Breakfast in the hotel, already very hot and humid, as we leave the cobbled streets just out side the hotel, straight on to the main highway 277 to Foz do Iguaçu, pretty boring road, lot of traffic, but a good hard shoulder, most of the time.

Bingo’s bird spotting has taken a bit of a dive lately, but back into the swing of things today with three new sightings today, Bananaquit (Coereba flaveola), Yellow-winged Blackbird (Agelasticus thilius) and Yellow-chevroned Parakeet (Brotogeris chiriri), he was quite pleased with himself. Other than that few punctures on the road, all due to the debris on the side of the road, all sorted no dramas and loads of soft drinks and ice-cream, just to keep the morale up.

Stopped in a park, well bus stop, in the centre of Foz do Iguaçu, very close to the Argentine border, did not want to go back into Argentina if possible, as its quite a bit of hassle with the border crossing etc.

Bingo booked a hotel just down the road, on his phone, perfect as we will be staying here for two nights, going to be proper little tourist for the next couple of days. All booked, Bingo sorting out tomorrow’s visit to the falls me checking out the hotels facilities, spent the extra £ today, nice swimming pool with an outside bar, top notch.

So we have got a guy picking us up at 8 tomorrow morning, having boat ride right into the rapids and waterfalls, going to see both the Argentinian & Brazilian views, then a trip into the rainforest for the afternoon, should be good. We also tried to book a visit to Itaipu Dam and hydroelectric powerplant, but the visiting times did not allow us to do both.

Spent the afternoon by the pool and sorted out the first weeks riding into Paraguay, nice lazy day, resting these aching muscles.

Day 44 – 43 miles in 3 hrs 44 mins

Day 45 Friday 28th February 2025 Foz do Iguaçu

Day off the bike today, doing the touristy bit, visiting Iguazu Falls should be great day.

Breakfast was manic this morning, people all over the place, felt like being in Butlins or Benidorm, loads of tourists staying here, hoping there not all on our bus.

Thankfully not, just a small minibus for us, picked a few other people up from various hotels, then transferred to a bigger bus, all very well organised. Bit of a drive out to the National Park about 15 miles, you can see they are beefing up the tourist trade, building a massive road now.

We got a little jeep down to the river for the first bit, then walked the final 1/2 mile, all good in the forest, then had a little ride on a funicular railway down to the pontoon, bit like the ones at Folkestone, that they are currently overhauling.

We boarded the ribbed craft for a river cruise, more like powerboat racing two 250HP mercury outboards on the thing, it did go, took us to the base of the first set of falls, truly amazing, went under the falling water got soaked, but we knew we would. Good chance to wash the clothes as we both only have one set of “going out clothes” even had to wear our cycling shoes! then captain Pugwash gives us a feel for the beast on the way back twisting and turning all over the river, good fun.

Took no time at all to dry out, just had to be a bit careful with your phone, little ride on the funicular railway back up the cliffs, then a jeep ride through the forest, ready to start the next phase of the visit. A three mile walk through the forest with suspended viewing platforms overlooking the falls.

The stunning views, that just kept getting better and better, the pictures do not do it justice, you just can not capture it all, well I couldn’t – tried to do that panoramic view, but still not doing it justice. Few monkeys in the trees above us probably black howler (Alouatta caraya) and South American coati (Nasua nasua) frolicking in the grass and hedges, seems like they were used to all the tourists.

All in all a good day out, really pleased we did it.

Back on the bikes tomorrow, riding into Paraguay.

Day 46 March 1st 2025 Foz do Iguaçu to Juan Emilio O’Leary

[Juan Emiliano O’Leary Urdapilleta (Asunción June 12, 1879 – October 31, 1969) was a Paraguayan journalist, historian, politician, poet and essayist. He is considered one of the most important figures in the Colorado Party. Ed]

Early morning start as we wanted to be over the bridge of troubled waters, as early as possible, its actually called the “Friendship Bridge” what a lovely name. So back to the normal regime forgo breakfast and have porridge in the room with the added benefit of some milk taken from last nights meal, with chocolate and honey better than their chef could concoct.

All packed up and ready just before 6, if we was out in the countryside we would have just rode on, but its a massive three part city, so built up we decided to wait 15 mins for the light to get better. All the early morning risers in the hotel just looking at us in disbelief, they now realise why we only had one set of clothes!

Off we go into the bustlingly city streets, only early Saturday morning but still busy, just gently pedaling listening to the commands of Bingo, to dark for me to see anything. As we turn on to the road leading up to the so called “Friendship Bridge” it just gets manic, motorcycles all over the place, lorries beeping their horn, with Mr Magoo trying to navigate his way through this carnage. Always a bright spot on the horizon Bingo spots a group of cyclists going the same way as us, me I can only see in front of my wheel, but hey how follow them, bit like the Pink Panther film, “Follow that taxi” sums up this tour pretty good.

Good result though with Bingo bird spotting eyes he knew they were a local cycling touring company offering tours to Paraguay for a day trip, not sure that bit is true, but thats what they was doing, what a result they expertly guided us through the process, with a massive caution you will have to lug your bikes up three set of steps. Mate that was difficult, I even enlisted the help of a Brazilian border guard, I put on my sad face then anyone will help me! Then a one minute examination of our passports, all good, exit stamped go back the same way. I did look for my friendly border guy, he was probably having a lie down, don’t blame him. Then the Friendship bridge I guess they call it that as everybody is so close, very, very leary, just keeping a line and carrying on, it was terrifying to be brutally honest, but travellers we are, so kept going.

Crossed the bridge then met our every friendly cycling group again, “put your bikes here, queue and get your Paraguayan passport stamp, what a good guy, funny how good guys always meet up, “Karma” . We joined the massive queue thinking this could take a while, which it did, not as long as we originally thought. All done in just over an hour, regrettably we did not get the name of the guy leading the tour, or a picture as it was all in the restricted zone, what a great bloke. (note to self do bit of research when sober and get the tour companies name).[Might be this Bike Tour Experience 3 Countries in one Day: Ed]

So into Paraguay, the fifth country so far and the one we know the least about, always best to start with an open mind. Well it was bedlam for the first 5 miles, which is very normal through most borders. Vendors on the street selling anything you want, all we wanted to do, was get out of the chaos, but need some Paraguayan Guarani, so stopped at a street vendors stall and swapped over our Brazilian Real, allegedly that’s how to do it, all done good so off we go for the first day in Paradise sorry Paraguay.

We knew it was just urban sprawl for at least 30 miles, just ride the route as we always say, to be perfectly honest, the drivers showed us some respect, just looking at us in utter amazement i think. It was good to get out of the urban stuff, still not much countryside, but least it was open fields, with a surprisingly good hard shoulder to ride on. We the came up to a toll gate, read the signs with my ever improving Spanish, we need 2000 of their things to get through? about £5 I think, we queue up with all the motorcyclist no-one pays! just after there is a sign keep your ticket, what ticket and for how long?

Carried on riding in the midday sun, actually very pleasant, most drivers giving us plenty of room as do the mad motorcyclist weaving in and out of the traffic carrying all sorts of things, wheelbarrows, strimmers, four abreast it’s great.

Stopped in a hardware shop for no apparent reason other to get a soft drink and ice cream, fair play they had the soft drinks no ice creams, no worries sat on their bench and enjoyed the drink, not sure they enjoyed the publicity, but we was thirsty.

Just rolled it in to Juan Emilio O’Leary, sounds like an Irish place, sure enough the first sign we seen was O’Leary Bar, what a surprise. found our little hotel that we had not booked, but soon sorted that, not a proper O’Leary Bar as it was closed, will tell him tonight.

All sorted in the digs now to spend and enjoy the fabulous donations to our beer kitty by the lovely guys and wives (hope they know, I am sure the do, well now at least), it’s with great thanks and appreciation to both Dave Austen and Dennis Price, thanks guys your support means so much to us, we are both humbled and grateful for your donation to the beer kitty, as its looking it will last us a while, even with me in control of it.

It is a pleasure to be involved with these sort of guys, cheers from the humble Bingo@Gringo.

Thats it for tonight, good night.

Day 45: 54 miles in 4 hrs 52 mins

For those that live in Aylesham

As you may know plans are afoot to build 800 more houses between here and Snowdown.

800 houses means a population of up to 3,500 extra people in the village.

That means about a 1000 extra children.

That mean 250 nursery age children – the plans include no provision for more nursery places.

That means 250 infant school children – no plans for this either.

250 primary school children – no plans obviously – the local schools are already full to capacity.

250 secondary school children – clearly no provision is made for these – our secondary school was closed 30 years ago. We already have hundreds of children being bused to school every morning. Buses which are already overcrowded. This would mean 10 more buses, at least, required twice a day.

3,500 people means at least 1000 more cars on the roads of the village. They may widen Spinney Lane and decimate Spinney Woods to achieve this.

No provision is made for improving access at Aylesham/Snowdown Stations. No plans for fast trains to London or more frequent trains to London.

No provision for more bus services, which have already been reduced to once an hour to Canterbury and nothing to Dover or Sandwich.

You can object to this planning (25/00133) here. It’s very important that you do. You probably only have until March 10th to do so. Or use the QR code.

Dover District Council have revoked a Tree Protection Order that was placed on Spinney Woods in 1976. They claim this is to ‘help’ manage the woods ‘for all’. They must think we are stupid. The woods have been managed very well for 49 years with a TPO in place. Removing a TPO only means one thing … they want to fell trees without asking for planning permission.

I shall be starting a petition to reverse this TPO removal. More news soon.

Thank you [Ed].