Week 16 – To Ecuador

Day 96 Sunday 20th April 2025 Pacasmayo to Chiclayo

Celebrated with a Pizza last night, not my favorite meal, but a good fill, if not a bit salty, woke up in the night with a raging thirst, blame it on the garlic bread and pizza, nothing to do with the gallon of ale I drunk.

Easter Sunday no easter egg but a bit of chocolate in the porridge curtesy of the so generous quartermaster, set up up for one of our so called easy days, sure only 65ish miles, but heading for a big town so traffic will may be a bit of concern, but I have had a bit of chocolate so who cares. Well one bloke did, the guy who job it was to open the gates in the morning, reckoned we owned him for a round of beers, I paid the bill last night, but hey how gave him 10 do dahs and he was happy, hope he gets his kids an Easter egg.

On the road just before 6, lovely time in the morning just us and the workers and who works Easter Sunday, quite few by the look of it, they can’t all be vicars! Just going to let the day happen ride and ride few songs, may even sing an easter song if I can remember on, without calling my Mum, got it! “There is a green hill far away beyond the city wall” Mum that education was not wasted, not sure of the rest of it but sure I and make some lyrics up. That will get the first 40 odd miles done, then just got to think about having a beer and it’s all done, how easy is that simple.

It was that simple just pedal away racking my little brain for the words to come out in the correct order, not unusual for me to get all the right words, but not in the right order, bit like when I had piano lessons, could play all the notes but not in the right order (Les Dawson quote [actually Morecambe & Wise: Ed]), something with him being crucified and died to save us all, good lad! That’s enough of that now Dale, I can hear my Mum saying, get on with the cycling rhetoric.

Well after all that we only have 20 miles to go through the City of Chiclayo, pretty big place so I have to concentrate now, no time for all this singing stuff, just grip your handle bars and ride, hopefully I have not blasphemed to much and the drivers will be kind to me. Its always a bit hair raising as we go through the city centre, me just following Bingo, smiling pleasantly at all the drivers (I think not, if looks could kill they probably will (another good song for a different ride Peter Gabriel), as I pedal on, one taxi brushes the side of my pannier, I wish him a happy Easter in a Saxon dialect, think he understood. So glad when we got to the pre-booked hostel, looking forward to a swim in the roof top pool, shame it was only the size of a paddling pool, but least we can relax and the shower in the room, the shower was great, so be thankful for small mercies.

Just a little walk over the road to a restaurant for lunch, not the best but least it was food, will save up and go out tonight for a proper meal tonight hopefully.

Day 97 Monday 21st April 2025 Chiclayo to Olmos

Really nice meal in a posh restaurant last night, felt we needed spoiling, bit of a steak place, so the guy was a bit confused, but managed to get a lovely salad, with all the trimmings and a big bowl of chips, in my element, Bingo had some meat thing not sure but he enjoyed it, I was concentrating on getting my salad, happy days. Enjoyed the walk home through the back streets of Chiclayo, stopped to get some yogurt and chocolate cake for pudding, lovely.

Nice little 64 miles tomorrow, breaking of the Pam Am highway and heading inland to the Ecuadorian border should cross in to Ecuador on Thursday all being well, today we are heading for a small town Olmos, few hotels / hostels so we should be ok for digs, worry about that later, got to get there first.

Navigated out of Chiclayo, relatively easily, cause we booked the the digs on the right side of town, getting good at this now! The road is single carriageway with a decent hard shoulder so not to bad, just get a bit leary when you go through the small villages, as the road just disappears on to the ripo for a short while, most of the traffic is fine, just the taxis and put- puts that are weaving in and out all the time and just stop right in front of you! Just give them a smiley face and carry on.

The scenery is getting a lot greener now, even rained a little, nothing serious just a few drops, but a lot more humid now, can even hear the birds in the hedgerows, makes a very pleasant change after all the corporate agricultural land we have been through, sure they insecticide everything as do not see any birds, wildlife or even insects as you cycle through mile afte mile of cultivated fields all heavily fenced off, with big warning signs, very peculiar, but certainly not good. So good to have the insects buzzing about us again, hopefully be back on the wildlife spotting again.

Doing well today, just turning over the pedals, part of a rest day, taking in the sights, little ice cream and soft drink stop just outside Illimo, both feel good, sun is breaking through and getting very hot, put on the sun screen and sunglasses, then end up with sun screen in my eye, all good just wash it out with half of my water, it was fine, just me being a drama queen again. with less than 20 miles to go, who needs water!

Last 8 mile just a little climb, only about a mile, but pretty steep, feels good going up these now, at low altitude, really easy, but we both know we will be hitting the mountains again pretty soon bring them on.

Just breezed into Olmos, little race with a young lad, was not going to let him win, had the country to think off, gave him a high five for his efforts though,. Soon at the dig, was in the fridge before we booked a room, bit cheeky , but was very thirsty, all sorted including the tab behind the bar.

Nice relaxing afternoon, little swim in the pool and half a pizza in the bar over the road, with a few cold ones, what a holiday.

Day 98 Tuesday 22nd April 2025 Olmos to Chulucanas

Courtney’s Birthday Many happy returns for the day, hope you had a great time in Ibiza

Nice meal last night, best part was the chocolate cake I threw into the shopping basket on the walk home, mixed it with vanilla yogurt and maple syrup what a combination it was delicious .

Still had enough yogurt for breakfast and loads of maple sauce my new favourite, hopefully will give me all the energy, as we left Olmos, through the airy, dark streets, just as the sun was rising. Soon out on the open road, feels very pleasant with a totally green background, very nice.

Heading for a little town Chulucanas, though a natural dry forest, sounds great, after the miles and miles of sand dunes, we have recently had. The scenery is incredible such a change, with little local farms, having their livestock on the road verges, very little traffic, a plethora of domesticated animals just wandering around the road side, lovely to see, the pigs, cows, donkeys, horses, goats, turkeys, chickens etc, if I have missed any sorry i was singing “Old Mac Donald had a farm” as we twisted through the green expanse. Even the dogs tried to behave, well most of them, still got a few who wanted to take a bit of succulent calf, they are a nuisance to say the least.

Really pleasant day riding, could hear the birds in the tree tops chirping away, few large lizards scampering over the road, most of them seemed to make it, the odd squashed one now and again, always easy to spot as the vultures do not miss a free meal, a they circle over us.

Just one little climb to today, had a little bit of a sting in its tail as it twisted up, nothing serious just a bit steep in places, truck had broken down right on a switch back, made it a bit leary for a while, made me think of the killers song “I predict a riot” always good for a rendition when the going get tough, sure thats another song, Kid Creole or something like that, on a roll now, soon had the little hill done with me murdering some classic songs.

Stopped for a soft drink, no coffee or ice cream, just a little pleasant shack, but thankful for it, as we now have 30 odd miles through the forest, with no towns or villages, we think! I always believe in the little oasis around the corner.

Met an extraordinary couple and their dog cycling up towards us, from Colombia, just north of Bogata – Diana and Didier and Thor the dog, [this link is the Insta account: Ed] the dog was shading under a blanket most of the time, love their bike set up, home made panniers, really nice flag on the back, just lovely eccentric couple, full of happiness. Had a lovely chat few photographs and exchanged social media contacts, straight away we they followed us and us them, loved it brilliant.

Just the rolling countryside without the little oasis, hey ho maybe next time, always looking at the positives, as we take in the glorious scenery, really smashing the ride today, just one little break, the legs are spinning, lungs full of the wonderfully clean air, what more could you ask for, well a little bar in the middle of nowhere would be nice, you never know!

Low and behold, we come around a corner, little hamlet La Vega-Agachadito, what do they say

Ye have heard that it hath been said, Thou shalt love thy neighbour, and hate thine enemy.

But I say unto you, Love your enemies, bless them that curse you, do good to them that hate you, and pray for them which despitefully use you, and persecute you;

That ye may be the children of your Father which is in heaven: for he maketh his sun to rise on the evil and on the good, and sendeth rain on the just and on the unjust.

For if ye love them which love you, what reward have ye? do not even the publicans the same?

And if ye salute your brethren only, what do ye more than others? do not even the publicans so?

Be ye therefore perfect, even as your Father which is in heaven is perfect.

Matthew 5:43 King James Bible [I changed the quote to the King James version – the usual version when we were growing up. “Love your neighbour, love your enemy” is pretty clear. “The sun will rise and the the rain will fall on everyone no matter what”, and “if you love those who love you a pub will always be around the corner”: Ed] I don’t understand most of it, will ask my Mum later, but there is a bar, so all good. Bingo got excited that a flock of Egrets (Garceta) landed in three trees (try saying that after a few beers) over the road, lovely site, though to be honest I was more interested in getting the liquid refreshments sorted.

Nice lunch with a few cold beers chucked in, Bingo did check the map, only 12 miles to go, so obviously I said let have another one then, never like leaving on even numbers, another one of my cycling rules (they do change, sometimes never like leaving on odd numbers but just how i feel on the day), the lads have finally got used to my weird and wonderful ways.

Well the 12 miles flew by, mainly because it was fueled by “Cristal” little local beer” that good we was merrily literally cycling along and missed the massive sign Hotel Boutique little 360 we soon had it all booked up, before you knew it we was in the roof top pool, doing the lengths and enjoying the day.

Good days riding, lovely road and brilliant views.

Day 99 Wednesday 23rd April 2025 Chulucanas to Sullana

St Georges Day, not that they celebrate that here in Peru, maybe Paddington bear does, but not met him yet and it’s our last full day in Peru!

Went for an Amazonia meal experience last night, actually all ok, lovely girl spent the time with us to explain all the dishes, quite difficult with the vegetarian option, but fair play to her we got it sorted and it was very nice. Bit disappointed with the cake situation though, supermarket had none, well that’s not good.

Still hitting the road early, with the nice early morning cool breeze, smash some miles out while I am still asleep, that’s the game plan, by the time I wake up half the rides gone, especially this morning on a 50 odd mile sprint to Sullana, about 25 miles from the Ecuadorian border.

Easy riding, through the green pastures, though it is getting a bit dryer in places now, quite exciting as we had to ford a couple of rivers in the morning, only about a foot deep, still good fun, cools the feet down that’s for sure. Then we came across a bridge that had been demolished by the flood last year, luckily they had mad a little bypass up and over the river, all good fun on the ripo road though a foot of water, made it without falling off, so quite pleased with my little self. Little flash back to a ride, not too long ago, with the effervescent Jonny Stevens, I can’t pedal through that as Bingo and I sailed through it majestically, we never ever let him forget it!, so glad he has recovered from his little mishap on the bike, happy riding in the summer Jonny, see you for a ride later. Though the bikes do need a decent clean, can feel the dirt and sand grinding, not good, will clean then a bit this afternoon.

Just taking in the sights, birds singing in the hedgerows, the odd massive lizard ventures out to say hello, then scuttles away, back to its little bolt hole, wandering what two idiots from Sunshine Corner are doing out these parts, well that’s what I am imagining. Stopped for a soft drink and a coffee in a little place Las Monicas, they had only just opened, but very willing to serve us, nice little stop, as we are in no rush today.

We amble through the miles with not a care in the world, up and down the rolling hills, few lemon orchards (or are they groves who knows), then grape vines, what a cycle route, lovely little restaurants dotted about the vines, enticing the tourist in, obviously far too expenses for us, so we tumble through, heading for the dusty delights of Sullana, it never disappoints as you enter the town, first the bit of rubbish, then the sandy side stream, where the taxis and the 3 wheeler put-puts set down, that’s chaos, then it settles down for a while, before the big rush to the town centre, all scary, but just pedal now, horns beeping keeping your line, with a little bit of Anglo Saxon terminology escaping my lips, when they get a bit close, but manage to escape through, with the tiniest of gaps.

Feels good when you see a place to stay, let’s try that, all in so easy, bikes out in the courtyard, hose pipe all ready, we just go for something to eat first, hoping the staff will clean the bikes, that’s what used to happen in days gone by, whatever happened to valet parking, probably have to pay the extra pound, that isn’t going to happen.

Nice afternoon cleaning the bikes (Bingo) me saying I am writing blog, but to be honest getting hammered by the pool, trying to scrouge some words from my lucid brain, with wild and wonderful thoughts falling through the empty space, sure I can get a song out of that!

Ended up with the Smiths, the miserable git, but good wordsmith (no pun intended), this Charming man, Punctured bicycle on a hillside desolate, then just cherry picking the lyrics ‘that someone so handsome should care’ just makes me smile, sums me up, the desolate guy on a mountain side wow he is so handsome in my dreams. but makes me get those extra miles in.

Good night think I need to eat.

Day 100 Thursday 24th April 2025 Sullana to Zapotillo (Ecuador)

We ate in the hotel, last night, not the best of meals, chips and salad for me, not what a finely tuned athlete needs, so went over to the shop and got a big bit of cake and a tube of pringles, lot better.

Had the rest of the cake with my breakfast, once again my eyes are bigger than my belly, least it wasn’t wasted, all packed up and riding at 6 in the morning, for the last jaunt in Peru, crossing the border into Ecuador, at the 40 odd mile mark, another border crossing.

Another nice early morning ride through the banana plantations and rice paddy field, very green, with loads of irrigation canals feeding the fields, guys on their little motorbikes whizzing past us with great big machete’s going to the banana plantations we hope, not just riding around with big knifes!

Then just like that the scenery changed again, now gone back to scrub land, bit like being on Dartmoor as we roll along the ups and downs, very little traffic on the road, makes us wonder if there is a border crossing, tried to do a bit of research last night, to be honest nothing came up, could be fun, but keep pedalling. Stopped for a coffee and soft drink at a busy little cafe in Lancones, full of workers having a bit of breakfast, before their hard days toil, got a few strange looks and smiles, them thinking we have a harder day in front of us.

Left the cafe with smiles and waves as we headed north, terrain got a little bit tougher, but nothing serious, just ups and downs, then through some interesting fords, traversing through the streams and rivers, made it quite exciting, good job we are in the dry season, think the road would be unpassable in the rainy season, whenever that is, maybe we should have researched that, but not that good on planning! The streams got bigger and wider for a while, just made it more fun, shame Bingo cleaned the bikes yesterday, they need doing again now.

Finally came into the little border village El Alamor on the Peru side and Lalamor on the Ecuador side, stopped for a soft drink, then I had a beer, it was nearly 11:00 and thought we maybe at the border sometime, so best to keep hydrated, nice little chat with some locals, not really sure what they said, just lots of smiles and arms gesticulating all over the place, seemed like they was having a good time. Then made our way to the Peruvian border crossing, all done in a matter of minutes, great thats half of it done, then over the bridge to their Ecuadorian counterparts, not so quick on this side, but still all done in half an hour, nice work. Now just a gentle ride into the border town of Zapotillo, about 14 miles away, easy ride, got sorted in a little hostel, very easily, now just need some currency, they use the USA dollar, so no big deal, as we have some, but managed to change the Peruvian SOLS over to dollars, happy days, nice little lunch, then sort out how we are going to get to Quito, from here, loads of time though.

Day 101 Friday 25th April 2025 Zapotillo to Puyango

Getting into the refried beans and rice now, it’s really quite nice, might make it my favourite, little cafe we were in did not serve beer, little chat, all sorted, me up the road for a six pack. Bingo getting sick of eating all my meat bits, that doesn’t sound to good, meant the chicken stuff they keep putting on my plate.

On the walk home went past a glorious bakery, had to go in for pudding, so much to choose from so decided to have two each, one for pudding then the other for breakfast, that didn’t work just ate them both, few creepy crawly things in the room, would be devastated if they ate them. Dead right looked like Bingo slept in a nest of cockroaches last night, he woke up with a massive one scuttling around him, not great.

Breakfast and out as quickly as possible, only 40 odd miles planned for today, mainly up hill, well 40 of them are , then 2 downhill , we will see. Just get the bike rolling, lovely countryside, green hills, probably mountains, with lots sugar plantations as we glide up the mountainside, keeping a look out for all the wildlife, getting a lot more abundant now, makes it all good fun, especially when you start climbing. We soon hit the climbs, all good at a low altitude so bring them on, nothing really steep, just go on an on, bit of cloud cover, so not to hot, just spinning the legs. Looking around massive spider just ambling across the road, have to take a picture, looks like a Huntsman spider from Australia, its a long way from home if it is! pretty cool though, said my farewells and we both went on are way, with a nod of the head.

Same all morning looking at the lovely green landscape, though the road is now littered with landslide debris, think we would have struggled to get through a couple of weeks ago, must have been over 20 landslides, where they have just cleared half the road, pretty leary if they happen when you are cycling through.

We stopped at a little junction for a bit of lunch and had to make a decision, stay on the route or head north, with not much on it for quite a while (40 odd miles), with no beer in the decision making it was a no brainer, just carry on what can go wrong! Filled up with egg and chips for me and chicken soup for Bingo of we go, all good bit of a mistake went past a little shop should have got some more chocolate, but hey ho, hopefully will be another shop soon, no such luck on that front. Though the landslides are getting more frequent, not much traffic which is good, as we slip and slide across them, few times we had to wait and let the opposing traffic come through. Right in the middle of nowhere we come across a Motel sign, have a quick look inside, not one of the places we want to stay in, will leave it at that, ladies of the night etc. So we carry on, great ride, looking out for places to camp or stay, eyes peeled, me thinking I will get another oasis, you could not write it, as we swept past a bend, could hear music coming from below on the river side, both pulled over, lets try it. Big steep decline, so I walked down, met the guy at the restaurant asked him if he did rooms, he said he has one if we want it, sure did, within 10 minutes was sitting at a table with a beer and a little room all sorted, at a big riverside restaurant with swimming pools and play areas, only us and another large family there.

Had a lovely meal at the restaurant just as a tropical storm started, rain coming down like stair rods, then a power cut, so we retired to our little room, least we are dry, good job we are not camping. Very early night now.

Day 102 Saturday 26th April 2025 Puyango to El Guabo

Mate that was an early night, just as we started dinner some rice thing with bits of fish and shells in it, it was really nice, lots of rice, not to keen on the shells, seem a bit crunchy, but a really big, just what we needed. A tropical storm blew across, all good just that the rain was joined together for a few hours, blew the electrics, Bingo the ace electrician, springs into action and gets two more beers, before the fridge get warm, priorities need to be adhered to.

Morning campers, just a steady downpour now, easing off, we both say, as we munch the cold porridge and nuts, pacing our little janitors room, like caged lions ready to devour a gladiator or tackle a little 9 mile climb straight away, we lasted 5 mins, sod this sitting around let do it, put on the soaking wet kit and packed the bikes up, left only about 06:30, we could only manage 30 mins looking at each other, what we going to do now then, ride.

Waved good bye to the janitor, not sure where he slept last night, but seemed pretty cheerful, so well done to him for giving up his quarters for the needy, as he opened the gates up to the roads, not sure how it will be, loads of debris as we start off, go past a little police check as we start the climb, they say ‘Estar cansado de los deslizamientos de tierra’ be weary of the land slides, with a smile. Fair play there was not much traffic on the road and they all went very steady, mudslides, tree falls all over the place, all we got was a thumbs up and a well done wave, drivers were so considerate, well they did not know what was around the next sweepback. Early morning birds lively, have a few to note, from the early session, namely the following, Bingo ever intrepid on the bird watch, me just trying to stay upright. So for starters today, we had Peruvian Pygmy-Owl, one of Bingo’s finds, I looked but just seen a tree! Blue-gray Tanager (Thraupis episcopus) I did see loads of these sweet little thing sitting on the wires mainly, then a Barred Hawk (Morphnarchus princeps), seen this one above us, could have been any thing really with my eyes, but seemed like it was a gracious glider.

Still climbing this little hill, but so nice, no litter, signs everywhere saying to not contaminate the countryside fair play to the Ecuadorians, makes such a pleasant change, nice to have pleasant thoughts as we amble up this quite nice hill or mountain, just taking our time in the right gear, all good. We stop just before the top, only because a busy coffee shop is there and they wave us in, most of the drivers had passed up coming up, what a welcome, nice cup of coffee and a soft drink, little chat with all the drivers, one guy had a RAF sweatshirt on, not sure he knew though, tried to explain, but lost in the wild world of words. Finish the last bit of the climb with ease, then just through the lovely forest, for the next section. We stopped on a bridge overlooking a river with two massive lizards, strolling around without a care in the world, must have been 4 feet long, lovely sight.

Beautiful ride through the forest then into the banana plantations, seems like everyone is wearing yellow wellies and have a massive knife, they must be free issue from DOLE Bananas , big multinational company, that runs most of the plantations, not my thing really, but they do seem to look after the local environment, will need to look into it a bit more, but still lots of wildlife around, so that good.

Still looking around for more animals, seen a squirrel scurrying around the hedges, Bingo reckons it was a Guayaquil squirrel (Sciurus stramineus), I just seen it move, Bingo got a good sighting, but nice seeing all the wildlife again.

Last little stretch for today, on a slightly busier road, nice hard shoulder and drivers very courteous, not in a hurry as we rolled into the surprising busy town El Guabo, nothing booked but had a place in mind, duly turned up there only to be told they are fully booked, we had just checked on booking.com they said they had rooms and a booking ref, still no joy, with the miserably girl at the reception, hey ho we found another place around the corner so all good, the guy could not have been more helpful, Bingo even gave him a beer, so all’s well that ends well.

Nice shower and relax for the afternoon.

Week 15 – Northern Peru

Day 88 Saturday 12th April 2025 Lima

Nice a couple of days of rest, bit of tourist stuff, but most importantly relax, arrived in Lima Friday afternoon, just spent the fest of the afternoon relaxing, doing all the washing, basically doing nothing, great stuff.

Saturday morning up with a spring in our step, first thing get Ringo a carboard bike box, so he can pack his bike up, ready to fly home on Monday. Searched the local area bike shop about 2 miles away, no problem will walk down there, see what they have got, off we set marching as if on a mission, unfortunately they only had a small box, so no good, plan B, look for the next shop, about 6 miles away in the other direction! Tried to get a little rickshaw, not sure it would have made it, even if he was willing to let three toned athletes get into his dusty cart, ended up getting an Uber. Got through the bustling markets and back roads, soon sorted out the box and signed another cyclist up for following us, after a photoshoot in his shop, cheeky git still charged us 10 Sol for the box, fair play its about 70p.

Back to the digs, help Ringo get his box sorted for the flight, did not help much, just lingered around and causally dropped stuff into his box, was quite confident I will not need the cold weather gear now, hopefully not as it going home. Still pretty tired so ate out locally then an early night.

Day 89 Sunday 13th April 2025 Lima

Sunday morning, decided to take a wander down to the quay side, all nice, lovely sunny day and a classic pasta lunch, curtesy of Big Dave Austen & Michelle Griffin, thank you so much, it means a lot to us. Also gave us the inspiration to see what else we could do in Lima, go seal watching, out for a boat ride around an inhabited island? or go to a top of the table football game Club Universitario de Deportes v FBC Melgar, Universitario are a Lima based club who the Liga 1 last year, Melgar are club from the city of Arequipa, currently top of the league. No brainer the football it is then sorted the tickets out, then found out the ground was at least an hours taxi ride away, oh well already spent £15 on the tickets so have to go. Massive new stadium, pretty hectic getting there and getting in but all ok, great atmosphere, stadium only bout 3/4 full but full of noise, especially when the home side had an emphatic win 4-1, after going a goal behind good evening.

Day 90 Monday 14th April 2025 Lima

Spent the Monday morning packing up, then lunch at the quayside, before we said good bye to Rylan (Ringo), been great having him share the adventure with us, will certainly miss his dry sense of humor and his navigational skills, viaje Seguro young man, have a great break in Ibiza when you get home, then all being well see you in Texas. Cheers Mate

Day 91 Tuesday 15th April 2025 Lima to Huacho

Back to the pair of us now, will miss Rylan’s navigational skills and his ability to always find a nice place to eat, well mostly. Left the apartment just before 6, the lovely girl who worked the reception desk made us some snap, as we missed breakfast, lovely touch, we are being so well looked after.

Great to be back on the road again after a little sabbatical wandering around the streets of Lima, mainly just kicking tin cans itching to get back on the bikes again. Even though it was a very misty morning, through the already busy Lima commuter traffic, it took us just over to 2 hours to clear the urban mess, thats a bit like Eton Mess, but not so posh or tasty, just tastes of smog!

Still very misty as we tackle the Pam Am Highway (Norte), rolling hills, bit of climbing but nothing serious, was nice to stretch the leg and get the clean if not sandy air in our lungs, heading for the beach town of Huacho, not that we will get much time at the beach, all thats finished now Ringo’s gone home, we were only spoiling him, least we should get some good food.

Stopped for a lovely lunch at a little village Garita Doña María, Both had a Tortilla, really nice and filling, got to get used to eating regular another good thing Ringo brought to the party, with 35 ish miles to go, just roll it in.

Not much really to say, other than decent road, nice wide hard shoulder and the sun did come up out later, which was nice, just eased our way through the 85 or so miles with consummate ease, as if we have been doing this for ages, might even make a career out of it you never know.

Nowhere booked but knew their was loads of places so headed for the one on the main road, with a restaurant, bar and swimming pool (all closed), but made us do the last 5 miles pretty quick, I must admit that I had a face like a pickled onion when she said the bar was closed, but hey ho we can get around it, little shop around the corner soon sorted, good day back on the bike. Lovely shower wash the kit and eat, what more do you want.

Day 92 Wednesday 16th April 2025 Huacho to Huarmey

Getting used to this Peruvian coast cuisine now, straight in with the noodle’s and vegetables, Bingo has the the same with chicken, massive plate of food turns up, just what we wanted, no beer in the outside eatery, guy just points next door, go and get them, which I duly did. Nice big meal few beers, felt brand new again, little walk back to cell block H and we are home. Nice rooms in the digs but the security is a bit off putting, razor wire on the walls, big portcullis to get in the place and loads of security, seemed a bit over the top for two lean tour cyclists and few other workers, but at least we slept well knowing they were looking after us.

Same remit as yesterday up early quick breakfast then hit the road at the first crack of dawn, sure that’s a song, but too busy thinking what nonsense, my brain will come up in today’s episode. Big ride today unplanned but in our head (Pretty big space between us) 90 odd miles to Huarmey, few hotels so should be ok, nothing serious in the climb department, just a bit of sea breeze and mist, lets rock, get this show on the rode as we wobble out of Huacho, just as the sun is rising.

Hit the road hard, strong and fast this morning, fueled with porridge, noodles and a few boiled eggs, the feast of athletes, do a 4 hour stint straight off eating up the miles, through the sand dunes, no animals or birds, except a few turkey vultures pecking on the remains of some unfortunate animal or maybe cyclist who knows, as we burnt the road up, through the sandy road. Stopped for a soft drink for 10 mins then hit the road again on a mission today, trying to get as many miles in before the sun burns through the mist.

Kept pushing forward till a little village of Gramadal, right on the coast, Bingo warned only fish in here mate!, I was a bit more confident read the sign tortilla verduras, happy days as we enjoy a soft drink and omelete by the seaside, lovely holiday as the sun starts to burn through.

Put on the sun lotion, sunglasses as we tackle the last 30 odd miles, as we had already booked the digs, all good, just one little climb then down hill all the way, heard that before, as we climbed the one hill easy, then around the corner another climb, as my great friend Stubbsy “said who put that on here my Garmin said we are done with climbs this is not a climb my arse!” fair play mate have a beer when we get home. It just went on and on through the sand dunes, didn’t know they could get so steep.

Last gentle ride in to Huarmey, after a little false flat, a weird feeling looks like you are going down hill, but are actually climbing, plays havoc with my little brain, (I have a big head, but not much inside it). Then roll into Huarmey, book into the digs and have a well earned beer, that’s what its all about.

Shower wash the kit, write a little bit of stuff then relax, before we eat, all good.

Day 93 Thursday 17th April 2025 Huarmey to Nuevo Chimbote

Sampled the culinary delights of Huarmey last night, sorry if any restaurant missed us, as we did not walk far, these legs are cycling legs not humping around every nook and cranny, my take on it, is the first place that serves food and beer is my favorite always been my motto, so once again we followed that. Good couple of beers and a nice belly full of food good times, living the dream.

Working day starts at 6, need to be ready with all your kit on, to rock and roll, young Carl Moses, the yard stick warrior from the sister Bowls Club, would love that, he struggles for an 08:00 start on tour, but congratulations and celebrations for you and Cleggy Plews, two great statemen from sunshine corner who just won the yardstick competition at the Bowls Club, not sure what that entails but two fine gentlemen won it fair play.

Hit the road dead on time, as we did noy have to wait for Moey!, gliding through the streets just us and the three wheeler taxis fight for the right of way, let Bingo go in front, he scares the living daylights out of the drivers, dogs and anyone else in the vicinity, soon hit the Pan Am highway to heaven, lets ride.

We both get into the rhythm, eating up the early morning miles, sun starting to break through, making a pleasant, morning, still a lack of animals and birds to report on, not much lives the wild, wild Pacific coast of Peru, it is a bit barren, the good thing not many wild dogs chasing us now, even too barren for them! Not many climbs today, just a 5 mile steady away little jump, we get to the top, have a look around sand dunes and sand dunes, so carry on with a little bit of info that a possible cafe about 4 miles away, lets see about that!

Well Oasis to exist not the band, they are busy writing stuff for their new tour! a little place “La Balsa” what a place, made us feel so welcome as soon as we arrived, guy was out inspecting the bikes, his lovely lady was asking if we wanted a coffee, never been to a place like it, we sat down with a soft drink and a coffee and relaxed after a nice mornings ride. Clementine (not the orange) the owner came over with all his scrap books, all the travellers had written lovely messages and safe travels for all travellers, some famous names had passed through Mark Beaumont, holds the record for cycling round the world, Stephen Fabes Doctor who cycled the world and wrote a great book and loads of other inspirational travellers respect to each and every one of them, makes us feel so good to put Aylesham Sunshine Corner on the map!, duly signed the visitors book. Mate what a good stop, Clementine would not even let us pay the bill, he was adamant just enjoy ride he said with a wave and a few pics, so glad we stopped there, memories forever, there are so many good people around.

As we left the “La Balsa” it will always be a memory for us both great times, I just had to rack my brains for the old Johnny Cash song:

She knew that Cody was the man she wanted
but she had waited nearly all her lif
Just one more trip to town to tell the boys goodbye
Then he’d be back to take her for his wife
(don’t you worry) Clementine

Love it, honest made the miles slip away sing all the old Johnny Cash songs, really don’t know where my mind goes some times , but it does help you spin the miles out.

My voices was cracking with singing out loud with the sand blasting us, from the right direction just pushing us forward, Bingo shouted do you want anything to eat, I just replied:

I fell into a burning ring of fire
I went down, down, down
And the flames went higher
And it burns, burns, burns
The ring of fire
The ring of fire

Giggling to myself sure mate just got finish this song, he just looks at me with disbelief, not for the first time I might add.

We stop in a little cafe, have a tortilla and vegetables, good news Bingo says, only 10 miles to go, its only just after 12, so like true athletes we say maybe we can go further, every mile helps, I just say fine in a world of my own at the moment.

Good day on the bike, just carried on riding, went further than we thought we would, I blame Johnny Cash for that, so good to be able to daydream and cycle at the same time, multi-tasking at its finest, as we glided into Nuevo Chimbote, good day today stopped in a little bar, so helpful had a beer or two, then they directed us to a little hotel, all booked in easily.

Great days riding, shower then eat.

Day 94 Friday 18th April 2025 Nuevo Chimbote to Trujillo

We were heading to the same bar that gave us directions last night but got sidetracked by the noodles. In the end, we had to stop for a large plate of noodles and vegetables, or chicken in Bingo’s case. If they have it, we eat it! A few beers made it even better. On the way back to our place, we did a bit of shopping, sneaking in some chocolate while the quartermaster wasn’t looking.

The same morning routine: porridge before leaving, and I let Bingo have some chocolate, which made him happy. We hit the road just before 6, first finding an ATM, then getting onto the open road. It was a bit tricky this morning, but we navigated through the busy towns before and after Chimbote, managing to avoid the chaotic taxi and put-put drivers. I was relieved to finally be on the open road charging down the pacific highway, just as we like it, heading towards nowhere important just north, have few places in mind just see how the day rocks. First little break just as the sun is breaking through ” Restaurante Las Rocas” just after the Santa River, nice coffee and soft drink, set us up for the day.

On we go without a care in the world, living the ultimate dream, though I am sure we are being followed! not by a security car as was in China, this time it’s a sugar cane truck, been seeing the same truck for the last two days, you cant miss it, as it looks like a birds nest travelling along the road, dropping bits of sugar cane all over the place. it always stops just as we are having a break, then sneakily gets going again as we leave, playing mind games with us, tried to look in the cab, but it’s that high I cant see in to it, good fun though as we always overtake it going down hill, then he pulls up along side of us when we start climbing, staring at us through dark sun glasses, like some Eastern European spy years ago, just my mind playing games with me, but it’s always there!

Enough of the espionage / spy stuff get on with the riding, pushed on to San José, had a little lunch stop, both feeling good, so lets keep riding, only had about 14 mile to go, but we can always change that, which we did, do not want to make this all to easy, so had a beer, looked at the maps and decided to head towards Trujillo about 25 miles away, we will soon sort that out, just after we got going noticed the birds nest truck pulled over, when we went past it started going again, all very strange, but quite funny.

Just pushed on through the last 25 miles, bit of rolling hills, and the Pacific Ocean in the foreground, through a slight sea mist, one last little climb then a descent into the outskirts of Trujillo, Bingo has whatsapped a hotel, all good as we descend, overtaking the dammed sugar cane truck again, pull into the disco hotel, music blaring pool ready, its holiday time again, after nearly 90 miles we both need it.

They made us feel so welcomes, even going out to the local shop to get us some yogurt for the morning, nice relaxing evening, swim, few beers then eat! not checked where the birds nest truck is yet, leave that till the morning will add a bit of excitement.

Day 95 Saturday 19th April 2025 Trujillo to Pacasmayo

All good on the food front last night, we ate in the hotel love nest, just chips and egg for me, my staple diet in Peru, when the going get tough, does me, washed down with a few cold ones always good.

Left the love hotel in the still hours of the morning, with a belly full of porridge ready to attack the day, with the usual swagger, managed to get out of the town fairly easy. Then hit the biggest rubbish dump in living memory, must have been 30 miles long, with the road going straight through the middle, not nice. Possibly the worst stretch of road we have had this tour, it so hard to put it words how bad the smell was, even for a master narrator like myself (once again self praise is no praise at all), will just leave it at that, sad for Peru, but it was disgusting.

Was so pleased to get out of that section, then all of a sudden the landscape changes for a while, back in to the sugar cane section, we did have a few bird nest trucks pass us, but sure they weren’t the same one, probably got lost in the rubbish dump. Nice to roll along with the scent of the sugar cane harvest, looks good, with load of people in the fields, akin to the old day in in East Kent, when half the village was out picking the harvest, or scrumping it.

Stopped to clear the airways and have a nice cup of coffee at a little place La Pascona, away from the rubbish dumps now we hope, gentle cruise down to the sea side at Pacasmayo, allegedly Peru’s answer to surfers paradise, we will be the judge of that. Nice little ride, down to the coast again, wind turned against us slightly for the last couple of miles, but no big deal, as we arrived on the outskirts of Pacasmayo, I booked a quirky little hostel, so all good for the digs.

Well the place was quirky to say the least, the mad lady who runs the place, was madder than me, she was all over us, like a women possessed, scared the living daylights out of the both of us, all hippy things hanging around and surf boards all around us, very much surfers paradise. Relaxed a bit with a beer and a joss stick, just to get into the ambiance, then hit the surfers beach. Not so many rollers as last time, but the beach was packed with the all the Easter holiday brigade out in force, tried to walk along the pier, with it old railway tracks still on show, (shows how old I am now, more interested in the old railway line than the beach) shame the pier has fallen into disrepair, we were only allowed on the first part. So the beach it was, felt good frolicking in the waves, resting the weary cycling legs.

Good day, nice meal away from the beach, then the usual supermarket trek, making sure we have enough for breakfast and snacks through the day, very essential, then an early night, I can wear the jeans but cant stay up late any more!

A reminder of our Charity – Slide Away

“Slide Away’s vision is for every child in Kent to have access to bereavement support which acknowledges their grief and experience of loss following the death of a relative or friend. Slide Away offers support to children and young people in Kent who have been bereaved of a family member or friend and those who have a parent or sibling with a life limiting illness”

Here’s how you can donate to our charity Slide Away. The simplest way is to go to our Just Giving page.

And we have the QR code as well …

Once again a big thank you to everyone that has contributed.

Week 14 – To the Pacific

Day 82 Sunday 6th April 2025 Puquío to Lucanas

We did not get into the hotel till 3am, this morning, so had a bit of a lay in, no breakfast in the hotel, so had the normal fare yoghurt and porridge, was quite nice taking out time this morning, not rushing around trying to get out of the door as quick as possible.

Just a gentle ride today from Puquío to Lucanas, only 18 miles, but there is a method to the madness, then we can get to Nasca tomorrow, then start to the final descent into Lima, well that the plan, all we have to do it.

First part relatively easy ride to Lucanas, little 7 mile climb, with a very forgiving incline, then a big descent i to the little town, past a working silver mine, thought Bingo was going to go in to the drifts, we did speak with one of the miners, difficult to communicate, least we found out it was silver they were mining, no such luck with entering it though, maybe he thought we would pocket the silver!

Entered the village, found a place to eat, Bingo & Ringo ordered the meal, I walked down the road to hostel, got a phone number for it, after a confusing phone call managed to arrange to meet him at the place, all sorted, but not sure how many people are staying there though. Finished the fine lunch, never had so big portions, maybe things are looking up on the food front hope so.

Got into the digs, then the owner came in, followed by the cleaner lady and her son, was a bit like piccadilly circus at one stage, though we had taken over the kitchen table, laid all the food out and sorting the ride in to Lima out.

Bingo cooked a big Pasta dish, with all the trimming after Ringo and I went to the local shop, to get the fresh produce, garlic, chilli peppers, normal peppers, onions couple of beers, and some yoghurt for the morning, all very organised, early night now, resting these weary bodies.

Day 83 Monday 7th April 2025 Lucanas to Nazca

We gathered our selves together after a wonderful stay, think we took over the kitchen, if not the hostel for the night we was here, people coming out of all the noocks and crannies, all seemed nice they went down to the cafe below, while we ate the delights of porridge and yogurt in the digs, all good.

We are off just a little 5 mile ride down hill, then a 15 mile climb, and whey ho 50 mile descent into Nazca, just as it said on the tin, we rode up a steady climb till 4160m (1370o feet), then one of the best descents ever, down to the ever welcoming town of Nazca,

Well what a ride think we deserved it overtaking the labouring trucks, with a wave and a thumbs up as we came thundering down to around 500m (1600ft), altitude, condors rising majestically on the thermal currents, sure one had is eye on me, as I cornered the switch backs not quite so elegantly, basically wobbling down the mountains, trying to get the wonderful view into perspective. Walking on the Moon, was the song I was singing, never been to the moon, but you never know might me the next tour! I haven’t finished this one yet!

We met a touring cyclist from Dusseldorf (Germany) Toby, sturggling up the mountain about 20 miles from Nazca, he had a long way to go uphill, but didnt look too bothered about it!

Great ride lovely to be in the warm again, as we cruise into Nasca, booked into the digs which Ringo had found, he is a good lad, looking after his dad and uncle, with impeccable manners, all part of the upbringing.

Bingo shoots off to get some money from the bank, then pin drops a location for food, lovely little Bamboo bar showing pictures of the Nazca lines (lines drawn in geometric patterns and distinct animal shapes across the Peruvian desert) We will be riding through the district tomorrow, all being well. Nice meal and a few beers reminiscing on the day ride especially the descent through the moon like scenery.

Day 84 Tuesday 8th April 2025 Nazca to Ica

Lovely relaxing meal, in this tourist town, one of the major touring destinations on the Inca trail, nice to get some nice food and mingle with the tourists all good fun and good to relax a little, this body need it.

Missed the breakfast in digs, 07:00 too late for these athletes, so porridge and yoghurt in the room, then on the road around 06;30, heading for the majestically named city of Ica. Through the Nazca lines—subject of mystery for over 80 years, there are over 800 straight lines, 300 geometric figures and 70 animal and plant designs, also called biomorphs. Some of the straight lines run up to 30 miles, while the biomorphs range from 50 to 1200 feet in length, all very weird and interesting as we rode through the barren desert, my mind going in overdrive as I try to fathom the mystery out, then realise that there are a lot clever people out there than me, let them sort it out, I will carry on singing and pedalling, that’s what I am good at. probably not the singing, though I did have a classical background in St Peter’s church choir, picked mainly on my choir boy looks (self praise is no praise at all) not my voice Mr Fishwick told my Mum, sit him at the front and tell him to mime!

Well back to the riding, just grinding out the miles through the desert, not a lot to see, just loads of sand and sand, interspersed with piles of litter, not nice to see, one of my overriding memories so far is how much littler, there is, we really need to educate and force the major companies to act on this, they are quite willing to sell the plastic bottles, let make them recycled them!!! Sorry for the rant but it really disgusting, something need to be done, very quickly. Not much riding in that little rant, mainly because we made the school boy error of missing a few food stops, just so we could complete the last climb of the day and to be honest it was only a mole hill.

So done that then guess what we are all hungry, with only one bottle of water each, to get to the next town, in 30+ degrees, think we would get used to this, but sometimes pride takes over. Finally stumble into a little town, and have a nice meal and a few soft drinks, makes the world of difference, then canter into Ica, the last 20 miles with ease.

Ringo getting good at booking the digs now, goes upmarket and books a place with a swimming pool, spending his birthday money, good lad, relaxing afternoon by the pool few beers, rest and checking the menu out for tonight’s meal.

Day 85 Wednesday 9th April 2025 Ica to Nuevo Canete

Well hear we go, the second time of writing this, with the confusion and excitement of actually finding a place to stay, I seemed to forget to save the draft version, no worries it will be better second time around, I very much doubt it.

Left the little dark room in Ica after the normal breakfast fare, all pumped up to take Ringo to the seaside, bit like the old Margate trips of old, when Aylesham was vacated for the day during the pit holidays, happy days, off we go in search of sea, sand and sun, what could possibly go wrong.

All three of us stamping on the pedals, must be thought of an extra ice cream or so, within the first three hours we had done nearly 50 miles, good going on these beasts, stopped a lovely little truck stop, with a swimming pool, thats more like it, nice bit of lunch, Ringo does his mandatory triathlon practice with 50 lengths in pool, Bingo and I look on with an ice cream. Soon back on the road with the same determination as before, even more so, as we hatch a plan on the road ( never like plans they always go wrong!), rather than stop in the original place in Chincha Alta, we will press on and go to stay right on the beach, Ringo has two places in mind.

Well that was the start of our downfall like Spike Milligan once poignantly wrote ” “We haven’t got a plan so nothing can go wrong!” well we had a plan for once and it did!

First we need to get of the highway, and get on the road below, well road more like a sand track, so three miles down this track we come to a gate house, guy not the most helpful says closed, or something like that, points down the track says there is another place down there, Ringo say yes another 2 miles, off we go in search of the seaside, plenty of sand no sea!! We come to another barrier, this guy is extremely unhelpful just says closed with the authority Sergeant Major, no means no!!!

So we have a choice go back the way we come (Not a chance) or cycle up the massive sand dune, that sounds fun, mate that was difficult, just got back onto the Pan-Am highway after an hour hilarious fun. Reconvened in a truck stop, they treated us so good, least we had a meal and a few beers, to wash away the sand.

Ringo then said there is a hostel about a mile away, lets try it, finally a bit of luck, the guys lets us in, not the best place, buts its clean and the guy shows us where to get some beers and water so all good in the end, even the owner supplements our beer stocks, when he seen we were getting a bit short.

Day 86 Thursday 10th April 2025 Nuevo Canete to San Bartolo

Lovely hospitality from the host last night sharing a beer with us, as wax lyrical about the days ride, weird place but nice people, as we watch the sun go gown on the dusty sand dunes, with their dogs licking their lips at our succulent calves

No yogurt, so just water with the porridge in the morning, trying to wean Ringo off the staple diet, before he goes home. Pushed the bikes over the sand dunes and back on the Pam-Am Highway, all set for Ringos penultimate days riding with us, afraid its not the most exciting ride, from the dusty village San Vicente de Cañete, to the oh so elegantly named Playa San Bartolo (nice village name and all the best to young Cathal and his lovely family), that’s enough of the soft stuff.

On the tourist trail again now waving to all the motor cyclists, tourist as they give us gentle beep, keeps us going, as we churn out the miles, not going at any great speed, just constant. Hugging the coast, enjoying the cool sea breeze, every now and again we get a glimpse of the Pacific ocean, waves crashing in, looking forward to having a swim later.

Other than the thought of diving into the ocean, not much to see, just lots of beach, sand dunes, takes us a while to find a place to eat along the road, definately the off season, finally find a place that is open in Asia little town not the continent! but only a set menu, little discussion we soon have it all sorted, rice and salad, thats what fuels Ringo, Gringo, Bingo has the whole set menu, nice guy serves us ,wanting to practise his English, gave him a good lesson with a tinge of the Aylesham accent.

Only 25mile to go, Bingo has booked a beach front apartment, hopefully for the right day, last time we let him lose on the booking department he booked a lovely hotel, just the wrong day! but thats another story.

Head in to the afor mentioned Playa San Bartolo, ride up and down the seafront promenade, must be down the near vertical cliff, manage to get the bikes down a set of stone / sand carved steps, onto the lower terrace row, Bingo and Ringo go in search of the apartment, I am left in charge of the bikes, thats my forte, soon have a nice cold beer in my hand, as I diligently look after the bikes, they come back and order me to get another three beers, as they manouvre the bikes back up a steep set of steps to the apartment , message to self get better at reading the information on the places to stay, makes life so much easier. But all well that ends well, soon in the digs, very nice ones, then straight into the Pacific Ocean, felt so good, frolicking in the surf, watching the big boys ride the waves, as we paddled about.

Just enough time to watch the sun set over the ocean, then out for a bit of food, still in bed by nine though.

Day 87 Friday 11th April 2025 San Bartolo to Lima

Nice meal last night, once again let the young gun sort the restaurant out, he never lets us down, worth the wait, which was not wasted, with liquid refreshments.

Ringo’s last day riding with us, we will miss him, nothing phases him, just casually gets on with the riding, possibly the exact opposite of his father, who is a bit of a drama queen I must say, but hey ho we are all different, be a strange old world if we wasn’t.

Of we go all a bit nervous as we know the road into Lima will be very busy, if not unbearable, as we get back on to the Pan Am Highway, we was not wrong, only 50 miles or so to do, but it was horrible, right from the start, traffic joining the highway from all angles, me just gripping my handle bars so tight made my arms ache. Making headway into the massive metropolises of Lima, with over 10 million inhabitants, a daunting prospect.

First we are heading for the district of San Borja, to visit the statue of Wingham’s, other famous son, William Miller (2 December 1795 Wingham Kent – 31 October 1861), better known as Guillermo Miller, was an English-born army officer and diplomat who served in the Peninsular War and the Spanish American wars of independence. There is a street in Wingham, England named after him and plaque, presented by the Peruvian government in 2006, is inside St. Mary’s Church.

The Statue is in a very nice area of the City, flanked by immaculate gardens and a vibrant university culture, after the photos and a nice chat to a Pervian gentleman who was well clued up on William Millers antics, he even went to visit some of his past haunts, we retired to a coffee shop, still had the heart of the City to go through, so a beer was out of the question, even for me.

All I can say about the next chapter through the bustling market streets of Lima, is I am glad it is over, how Ringo guided us the through the streets I will never know, going up one way streets the wrong way, just waving at the drivers with a cheery smile, scooting past the market stalls, selling everything and anything, it was nerve racking for an old git like me, that’s for sure. Was so pleased when we finally made it to the apartment, just relax.

Settle in the place, as we have a few days here and relax relax relax!!

THis is the equivalent plaque in Wingham Church

[the Saturday, Sunday and Monday were spent hanging around Lima as this was Ringo’s final w/e with a flight home on the Monday. Details in next weeks blog: Ed]

Week 13 – Into Peru

Day 75 Sunday 30th March 2025 San Pedro de Tiquina to Juli, Peru

Andre the host opened up the hotel especially for us, he got the bus down from La Paz, excellent host could not do enough for us.

Breakfast in the hotel in the morning pretty good but Bingo and I are struggling to eat, one of the symptoms of altitude sickness we will need to be aware of. Great pictures as we are leaving, with a llama, wish it was a donkey I would have ridden it up the first climb .

Straight out of the hotel into a 5 mile climb, the first bit was difficult after that it was just steady away, I am definitely feeling the lack of oxygen struggling to get my breath when the climbing gets tough, luckily I have my lad now who can look after his old man, he’s a good lad.

Heading for a small border crossing just outside a small village Tito Yupanqui or something like that. When we arrived at the said place the border crossing was just a chain across the road, with people and dogs going across as they pleased. So we followed bit apprehensive, as we need an exit stamp from Bolivia and an entry stamp from Peru, I know the dogs and the locals don’t bother, it will cause us a lot of hassle later. As we went down the isolated street, a policeman appeared, spoke a bit of English, he said his friend would take us to the Peruvian border control. However he could not give us an entry stamp as we needed an exit stamp from Bolivia, all a bit of a mix up. Hey ho just a very short detour, nothing to worry about. Soon got it all sorted passports all sorted and changed some money over, all good in the end.

Well that little saga was over, stopped for lunch in a small hotel, managed to get some WIFI so bingo booked a place just outside Juli, small town on the banks of Lake Titacaca, sounds wonderful.

Off we go, just under 30 miles with a couple climbs, here we go, spinning the wheels, made really good headway Bingo and Ringo putting on the pace, me just content with keeping the wheels moving, not far behind but soon as I try to push it feel the lack of oxygen, so steady away for me. I nearly missed them in a little village sitting on stools outside a shop, Bingo shouted the whole the whole village turned around and I stopped thankfully. Little jaunt then we should be at the digs, in an hour or so, well so we thought.

Ringo waiting for me at a little junction, Bingo has gone down a ripo road to find the digs, ever thoughtful Ringo says do you want to wait here, no I will come down, wrong decision.

Got down there Bingo with a face like a pickled onion, a pleasant women was trying to sort the place out. But we had very little food and water with us, so made the decision to move on, we were not happy.

Just a little climb out the back on to the road, Ringo sorted another place out 2 miles away, off we went again.

Managed to find the place all booked in, just as we was sorting out the bikes, met an Argentina family touring on bikes first we have seen for ages, nice chat and a few pictures nice family.

All booked in then straight into town to get some more food, then bed.

Day 76 Monday 31st March 2025 Juli to Puno

Clocks have changed here, we are now 6 hrs in front of UK [they are 6 hrs BEHIND us here in the UK – midday in the UK is 6am in Peru: Ed], made it very light at 6 this morning, breakfast in the room normal fare, porridge, yoghurt and biscuits, very nice, on the road just before 7 heading for the Town Pumo, a resort town on the shore of Lake Titicaca.

Nice ride today pretty flat and only 50 odd miles, hugging the shoreline of the lake, 1st stop in a little village Llave, looked for a coffee, but no luck so settled for a soft drink each. Carried onto the next town Acora, got lucky and secured three cups of Nescafe accompanied with pastries, them with the rest of the biscuits Ringo got yesterday made for a nice stop.

Riding along the lake, you can see the remnants of the Inca dynasty series of stepped horizontal platforms on the steep slopes, these terraces served multiple functions, making it possible to cultivate crops at high altitudes and in challenging terrain. There was still huts / houses or cattle stores made out of adobe mud, some still with the thatched roof, others with a corrugated iron roof. We seen locals making rope along the banks of the lake, not sure if they were using the traditional Andean grass, called q’oya or a modern equivalent.

As we entered Puno I suddenly realised I could not see Bingo or Ringo in front, I had been just pedalling along singing minding my own business, stopped pin-dropped them suddenly I am 4 miles in front of them, they stopped for a drink on the side of the road, I passed merrily through, no worries, we were soon back together.

No hotel booked so stopped in a dingy cafe for a spot of lunch ,and booked some digs up by the plaza and cathedral, rode the short distance to the hotel, very nice to, all had a warm shower, washed the gear, then went out for some proper food, in a little bistro Ringo had found.

Day 77 Tuesday 1st April 2025 Puno to Pucara

Went to downtown Puno last night for a Pasta/Pizza meal, quite a nice little place full of travellers, even two touring bikes outside, but did not get to meet them unfortunately, had the meal few beers nice evening. Bingo decided he wanted to do a supermarket shop, was not happy with the stuff Ringo brought back, It was all biscuits and chocolate, tell who brought him up!

Ringo and I had one last beer in a bar, before retiring to the hotel, well it was 8pm, Bingo soon came back with a bag for life, filled up with pasta tomato sauces, onions, peppers etc, we will be camping in the next couple of days.

Breakfast in the Hotel at 6 in the morning, good spread, we all made good use of it, eating everything we could lay out hands on. Hit the road just before 7, with the daunting task of getting out Punto, a very pleasant Town or maybe City who knows. What we did know is that the only way out is up. Bingo is on it, down this street up this street, the up this street, mate you are having a laugh, typically Ringo powers up it like a demon, Bingo and Gringo wobbled up the 1st section, then say sod that, manged to get up there in the end. Good stuff we join the route then, just another 2 miles of climbing, could feel that breakfast rumbling in my belly, thankfully it stayed there just. We moreover I crawled up the hill, luckily a tourist bus pulled in front, then stopped on a corner to let the tourist take a picture of Puno, seemed a good idea for me to take a break and take a picture, why not. Finally met up with the other two, after loads of pictures and explaining what I was up to with all the tourists, was well happy gave me a lovely break.

That was the first and only climb of the day, just a gentle roll up a little gradient all day, nobody putting the power on just nice and easy, mixed in with a bit of bird watching, lovely Owl perched on a telegraph pole, Bingo and his apprentice Ringo all over it, shame we have no WIFI to correctly identify it, but rest assured it will be. We rode straight through the bustling town of Juliaca, riding adjacent to the railway line, that now only runs tourist trains occasionally, very busy town with traffic once again all over the place, the consistent thing is the horn blowing, we were all glad to get of the town.

Very boring flat road, nothing spectacular just a matter of grinding out the miles. We had a little plan to stop for lunch at a place called Calapla, just a little village, stopped in the only restaurant (stretching the terminology a little), we had the set course as there was no other choice, Soup, not sure what flavor but ok, Rice vegetables and Llama, obviously Bingo had three helping of the Llama as Gringo & Ringo concentrated on the rest of the stuff, then the best bit dessert a lovely banana, made the dinner in my opinion.

Least the road was getting better now, off the dusty plains in to the valley with steep mountains either side of us, a lot better, with just over 24 miles to go, young Rylan pulled us home to the charming hamlet of Pucara, and a delightful hostel, with no hot water, WIFI but least its a bed.

Bingo and I went in search of a beer, while Ringo had a cold shower and a shake dry, tough lad, he eventually found us cramped around a little table in a shop selling all sorts but mainly china clay models of Bulls, think this must be a bull fighting village. Went over the road and had exactly the same meal , without the Llama chicken this time and No Banana, once again Bingo had a feast on the chicken.

Retired for bed very early, Think Ringo is excited as it is his Birthday tomorrow!

Day 78 Wednesday 2nd April 2025 Pucara to Pisac

Rylan’s (Ringo) 3oth Birthday whey ho!

We set the alarm early last night, not only to give Ringo his birthday surprise, but to get an early start we hoped.

Not one of the best hostels we have stayed in smelt of urine all the time pretty bad, definitely in the top ten of worst places I have ever stayed, we tried to make the best of it, giving Ringo his yoghurt and porridge, with a superbly crafted Swiss roll, which I had carried for the last three days. Difficult to enjoy in what can only describe as a room with the ambiance of a public toilet!

Finally got ready to ride just after 6 in the morning, that how much we enjoyed the birthday setting, worst was to follow, it was chucking it down with rain and only just above freezing. Off we went three cheery faces heading into the cold and rain, thinking we have nowhere to stay tonight camping it is or is it. We were all freezing after only doing a couple of miles, team meeting basically sod this, lets go back and warm up, see if the rain stops. So off we go back to seek shelter, in the pretty dismal village of Pucara.

We ended up getting a taxi, with the bikes on the top to Písac, a great guy offered us the lift, he took his wife along with us for the drive , really charming couple, stopped at a few places so we could take a few pictures, made us very welcome. The rain only stopped when it turned to snow, it really was a bleak day, still raining when we entered the hippy town of Pisca. Which is a bit of a stepping off point for Cusco, then on to Machu Picchu, so right on the tourist trail, with its narrow cobblestone streets, full of market stalls selling everything llama orientated, with the extra hippy tack of fair trade, organic, crystal energy stuff at ridiculous prices. Fair play it is a pleasant town with a very nice atmosphere, enjoyed a lovely meal and a walk through the bustling hippy town.

Back to the hotel to sort the next few days riding out, with a view to getting to a lower altitude in the not to distance future.

Day 79 Thursday 3rd April 2025 Pisca to Cuzco

Went for a evening meal in the same place that we had lunch, nice place with an extended menu so did not need to eat the same stuff, though the dishes do come out a bit randomly, Bingo’s starter cam out after he had finished his main but hey ho.

Discussed what we are going to do tomorrow, ride the 20 odd miles to Cusco, mainly up hill, visit the animal sanctuary and three Inca sites, namely Tambomachay, Puka Pukara and Saqsaywaman (sounds more Geordie then Inca), seemed a reasonable plan, but I am still struggling with the altitude, so will see what occurs, nothing can go wrong.

All up with the larks, ready and waiting for the breakfast to open, Ringo goes down first, the place is like the ” Marie Celeste”, so we pack up and move out, bound to be a cafe open in the town. Nice found a little cafe that served coffee, very strong coffee I might add, with a bakery next door, Ringo into the bakery gets a croissant and chocolate pastries for each of us, good lad, he did not know they were threes days old! but we all ate them, got to fuel the legs and lungs.

Just before 8 we set off, like I said earlier, I was a bit nervous, done loads of climbing never bothered me before, just been struggling to get enough oxygen in my lungs. So off we go, just get your cadence and rhythm right and pedal, first little bend, two dogs yapping and barking, Ringo videoing them! then Bingo goes past one of then takes a likening to his calf, i can hear him shouting and cursing at the dammed thing, then my turn to go past, ended up with both dogs tugging on my socks, lucky for me the are baggy and elasticated, so they just chewed them! Bingo ended up with a nasty bite on his calf, blood streaming down his leg. Tough lad just kept turning the pedals and carried on in a nonchalant manner, me I was still screaming about my socks!

Was quite pleased as I was feeling the best I have felt since being at altitude, maybe I just needed a bit more time to adjust, felt good climbing again which is a relief.

We soon hit the animal sanctuary, Ringo was waiting for me, Bingo was already on the operating table, with a young Austrian vet administering the first aid, excellent treatment, Bingo ensured her he was fully inoculated against Rabies and Tetanus. What a lovely place to visit, great people who cared about the animals, with the aim to reintroduce as many animals back into the wild as possible. Spent a good couple of hours being shown around looking at the Condors, Spectacle Bears, Mountain Lion (Puma), loads of parrots and Geese, we all really enjoyed the sanctuary and the hospitably they afforded us, brilliant.

Left the sanctuary with a buzz in the pedals, just 8 miles of climbing left, on we go, all of us feeling good, even Bingo with his bandaged calf, tell he is not a Rugby Back, soon hit the top of the climb, had a bit of a rest, then a French couple arrived form the other direction on touring bikes, had a lovely chat with them, they have been travelling around South America for six months and due to fly home to Grenoble from Colombia in August, so we may see them again, the girls name is Charlotte, can’t remember the guys name, but a nice bloke.

Now it was a slight descent onto the Inca sites, all of them were amazing, in awe of the work that they put in, perfectly aligned stones, with no mortar just perfect joints, astonishing they achieved all this without a wheel, thoroughly enjoyed the three sites. Just as we finished the last site, possibly the best Saqsaywaman, the heavens opened, so ended up cycling down the big descent into Cusco with the rain hammering down, Ringo showed his class, came around a tight corner, spotted a bar with a happy hour, he was straight in there, good lad. Had a beer, with a lovely view over the ancient city, sorted out an hotel only a mile away, brilliant, nice result, rain had stopped so just a gentle roll into town and the Hotel Marqueses, in the quaint cobblestone area of the city.

Nice day all around, good being a Tourist for once.

Day 80 Friday 4th April 2025 Cuzco to Curahuasi

Ringo sorted out a lovely meal in an old Manor House, that’s has now been turned into a restaurant, great food and lovely staff made feel so welcome, well we are paying but still nice to see a smile.

We walked back through the cobbled streets of Cusco, thinking about a few lads from Aylesham and one from a way out place called Canterbury or as he likes to call it Blean, who has ever heard of that place, good luck to all the lads who are riding the Tour of Flanders, Steve Richards, Mark Tonks, Carl Whitehouse & the bloke from Blean, (Glen ride hard strong and fast!)

We started our own cobbled adventure, first down to the bank, then up through the twisty cobbled streets, very difficult start, Bingo go run off the road, ended up with a puncture going over a grilled cover over a drain. Traffic was horrendous, beeping cutting us up all the time, you just have to keep your line and pedal, easier said than done when you are going up a 12% climb, but we finally managed it, reconvened at the top, all shaken but not stirred, still in the outskirts of Cusco, through the market stalls and throngs of people, another 10 miles of this, then we are in the open countryside, brilliant.

Little ride up then a 30 mile descent, probably the clearest, traffic free descent I have ever done, incredible, swirling down the traffic free road at 35 MPH for an hour and half lovely, we all so enjoyed it, but all had a little inclination we will pay for this later, but enjoy it while you can.

Right at the bottom of the decent we stopped at a place Kunrnay I believe, not much to write home about the meal, Ringo got defeated by the boiled egg, (remember the struggle I had in the wind ) straight in there boiled egg king. Just a soup with chicken wings, Bingo ate all three, lucky him.

Just a 14 mile climb to do now, you always have to pay for them descents, first bit was pretty steep then just a steady climb, still difficult though just grinding out the steep miles, trying to look at the scenery to take your mind of the relentless strain on my poor little legs. Up and up we go again, there is next to no traffic, just us silly sods and a few farmers, looking at us in amazement. For once all three of us were quite close, really because you cant get much slower or you will slide down hill, thankfully as we came down the mountain the temperature rose, so the dogs just basking in the sun, not trying to eat us, thankfully.

Last 5 mile there was some steep sections, testing the tied bodies, finally made it to the outskirts of Curahuasi, Bingo was there first an secure three cans of beer from a Cafe come trye changing facility , nice cold beer and watch the guys work on the trucks, was so knackered I could have slept there, but Ringo pushed us on to the digs.

Good nights rest required and a Pizza meal and a few beers, in bed by 9, true athletes.

Day 81 Saturday 5th April 2025 Curahuasi to Abancay and then to Puquío

Had a pizza meal last night, Ringo’s choice, not bad neither, nice and big and not salty. Even got it to a film, while we was waiting, no idea what it was though.

Strange little place Curahuasi, though quite busy, had breakfast in the room, porridge and yogurt are staple diet.

With only 40 miles planned today, headings towards Abancay, would think it would be a walk in the park. Always little twist, straight out of the digs, into a 20 mile climb right back up to 15,000 feet (4000m), lovely. I must admit it was difficult getting going, with a cold morning mountain mist hanging over us, just need to get going, soon be warm, I hope.

It did take longer than expected, with heavy drizzle coming down, it was a relentless climb, hardly any respite, just counting down the near vertical miles. It did seem never ending, trying to enjoy the wonderful scenery, but a little difficult as we did not want to stop, don’t think I would have got going again, just gently bentley up this mountain, with less than 4 miles to, we pulled into a little shop / cafe, well earned soft drink and a bar of chocolate, just what we needed. Final push, with the knowledge that we was not going to stop at the top, as it was too cold.

Four miles of slog, until we eventually hit the summit, Bingo and Ringo further ahead, took the chance to put on an extra two layers and gloves, glad I did it was freezing descending, little bit easier than the climb though. The descent would have been absolutely stunning if you could see anything, lovely tree covered mountains, looked like “Gorillas from the mist” with the mountain mist swirling around, made the tight switch backs, with no barriers, fun. Bingo and Ringo had stopped in cafe / restaurant, just on the outskirts of Abancay, two hot cups of coffee, to warm the old bones up then the old favorite chips and egg, for Gringo and Ringo, chicken and broad beans for Bingo, not what he was expecting.

That where we hitched up another cunning plan, lets get Ringo to the sea side and warmer climates, so with this in mind, we rode the last mile or something into the centre of Abancay, found the bus terminal and booked us and the bikes onto the 18:00 hr departure from Abancay to Puquío, an 8 hour bus journey, but hopefully warmer. Always a work of art getting the all the gear onto the bus, this time was no exception, all loaded we are off, an horrendous journey up the winding mountain passes, horns blaring as normal, but did manage to get a bit of sleep. Arrived at Puquio around 2:30 in the morning, managed to get in the hotel just before 3, all knackered.

Lay in in the morning then sort out a few maps, to get Ringo up to Lima, in time for his flight home.