Family Holiday in the Galapagos Islands with Charlie & Max, (Bingo’s daughter and partner), Lyle & Sandra (Gringo’s son and wife).
Lovely break in the sun drenched islands. Maybe a tadge commercialised in both Santa Cruz; Puerto Ayora and San Cristóbal; Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, having said that, outside these small cities the islands are pure and untouched, 95% of the land is National Parks and the only way you can visit these is via a tour guide.
The Galápagos are a “one-of-a-kind”, place unlike any other on earth. It is one of the most protected places in existence, and you will see things here that you cannot see anywhere else in the world, as a family of wildlife enthusiasts we were in our element.
Absolutely wonderful holiday, too many highlights to list them all, but from my perspective the Island of Isabela, holds a special place, the relaxed ambience of the island is incredible, up there with all the places I have ever visited, the tours of the volcano and the sea tunnels formed by the larva will stay with me for life, as will swimming with the black finned sharks – took my breath away – not good when you are snorkeling, but brilliant.
[Other videos were made but for some reason those in the vertical format don’t display properly! Ed]
Day 130 Saturday 24th May 2025 Quito to Otavalo
Well that the holiday over, back to work mode now, said are farewells to the family yesterday afternoon, with the promise of another holiday for them in Austin, Texas. They have a gruelling 18 hour flight to tackle, we just have to pedal another 5000 or so miles. Spent the afternoon getting the bikes ready for an early start in the morning, full of nervous energy, just like starting all over again, after a 15 day break.
Back to the yogurt and porridge this morning with the added bonus of a big mug of coffee, as we loaded the bikes up outside the apartment and we are off, just after 6 in the morning. Taking it easy through the early morning traffic, quite an easy route out of the sprawling city, just stay on the main road North and head for the mountains. Well they were a shock to the system our bodies have been used to the comforts for to long, legs feel like jelly, as we go up the first slight incline, sure my legs thought we where all finished, had to give them a stiff word to get pumping, breathing all over the place, what’s going wrong? Struggling to find any sort of rhythm, bike wobbling around like I have never ridden one before, look at Bingo, he is going through the same problems. Finally found a gear I could ride in some fashion and basically ground out the morning ride, thinking we have only got to do 55ish miles to Otavalo, a small city on the edge of Largo San Pablo, surely I can manage that, then my brain says don’t call me Shirley! I don’t think I have enough energy to start playing these games, not even singing hard enough to breath let alone sing.
We were both so relieved to come across a small cafe / stall selling cold drinks at La Playa de Pisque, definitely was not a beach, more like a look-out point over the mountain vista, first soft drink I have had for a fortnight maybe thats why my body is not working, as I slumped in a roadside chair, nervously looked at the garmin, something I never do when feeling good, bit of good news really nearly halfway done, my glass is always half full, another reason why I am struggling today”!
While I was wallowing in self pity, another touring cyclist turned up; John Wright from Peterborough, great chat with him, he is on a World Tour, been on the road for two years, currently heading down towards Ushuaia, going a slightly different route that we took, but brilliant talking to him as we exchanged pertinent points on our travels, John got a yacht over the Darien Gap, gave us some contacts and advice and when to book it. Said the good-byes, accompanied with the selfies and the travellers saying ” viajes seguros ” then it was off again, not sure my legs agreed with it but they are mine and they coming along, whether they like it or not.
Just ride the pain out, get my head sorted and pedal, have a mental note to ride to the top of the next climb then stop for a bite to eat, around 18 miles of hard up hill work. I just blanked everything out and pedaled, pretty tough but very much doable, still no songs though, had to concentrate far to much for that malarkey just to keep the bike going, it seemed to me every time I stopped concentrating my legs stopped, bit strange. But making steady progress, not going to win any race but least the bike is moving in the right direction, counting every mile, but can see the end of the climb on my Garmin, sent a positive message to the engine room (my legs) nearly there, they will get used to this again, well I hope so, finally managed to crawl into a cafe in a small village Tabacundo, just on the crest of the climb, exhausted. In fact too tired to eat, so just had a soft drink and a sugar coffee, need all the energy I can muster, the good news is we have finished the climbing for the day, nice descent into the city Otavalo, about 12 miles away.
Felt so good steaming down the decent, even if it did start raining, nothing serious but put on a light weight jacket, need to get this body fit again, not going to catch a cold! Soon enter the busy City and find the hostel with ease, all booked in, then straight over the road for some lunch.
Tough return to the saddle, but things can only get better (must be feeling good now, sure that’s a song) Early night though, been burning the candle at most ends, so my dear Mum would say.
Day 130 – 56 miles in 6hrs 18mins
[I’m guesssing they were too tired for photos: Ed]
No need for the bunsen burner last night, Bingo can keep it clean and sparkling, managed to get the host to fire up his range and dish out the delights of chips, rice and eggs, with Bingo having the grown up version of the eggs (chicken), nice grub few beers all relaxed, went back to the log cabin, covered ourselves in mosquito repellent, could hear the blighters buzzing around, like it was the battle of Britain, Bingo got his gatling gun electric thing out, bit like the advert years ago kill 99.9% of all known germs, just hope it don’t think I am a germ! Worse was to come, we just settled down in our fume ladened room, then next door turned up for a party. It is a bank holiday over here, mate they kept going all night, not one to miss a party, but just let them get on with it, hope the mosquitos move in around them.
Duly got our own back with the party gang last night, just woke up all the cockerels in the morning, feed them a bit of porridge under their shed, that’s enough, the owner who let us out of the farm, laughed when he seen me feeding them under their shed, just a shrug of the shoulders enjoy the morning.
Going to cross the equator this morning, though it was not marked on the little road we were riding on, I was going to dress up as Neptune (who is he) and make Bingo do all the stuff them Navy lads do, when they cross the equator, its only an abstract principle anyway, just like time and all that Physics stuff, but made my mind think about all those clever sods, who devised all these principles and theories, that kept me going for ages. Before we knew it we had crossed the equator, not checked which way the sink goes, but feels so mech better with my blood pumping the right way around, is that a thing in the Southern Hemisphere, could feel the difference straight away.
Soon on the outskirts of Pedermales, just skirting around it, then heading East to nowhere in particular, have a few places in mind, but nowhere to stay and more importantly nothing showing up on the maps, will just have to use my charm and see if we can get a place, other than that is sleeping with the spiders and snakes, another song in that. We stopped just after Pedermales for a nice coffee and soft drink, knew we had a fair bit of climbing to do, basically just got on and done it, very hot and sweaty but not to much of a problem as we weaved up the mountains again we love it. Well came to the end of the ride, little restaurant, had a bit to eat, even put on my sad face and asked if they had a room, ‘Hey you with the sad face come back to my place’ Live it up, from one of the old Crocodile Dundee films years ago, well she did not know the song or the dance and no rooms, bit of a long shot, but hey ho worth a try. Fair play she said its only an hour way, yes in a car I said oh yes maybe three hours then!, little chat then we are off, 3 hours, we will have it done in 2.
Good ride in the afternoon, both got stuck into it, knew what we had to do just pedal, then pedal harder, smashed it in just over 2 hours, with a tropical storm as well, same as ever, the most difficult part is when you hit the town, with the rain joined together, we looked like two drowned rats as we booked in the little hostel, me trying to get the sympathy, she just wanted the money, not a song this time, though I think it could be, just paid up, big ride today, need a beer.
Day 110 – 79 miles in 7 hrs 19 mins
Day 111 Monday 5th May 2025 El Carmen to El Paraiso
Another pizza last night, at this rate will be turning into an Italian, not so big, so felt better, still enough rooms for some snickers ice cream, in my day it would have been marathon ice cream, love my puddings.
Thankfully the storm had passed over from last night, torrential rain last night, started just as we arrived in El Carmen and did not let off until after we had eaten, great how life just goes on with water cascading down the roads like a full flowing river, all the street stalls carrying on selling, what ever they sell, if it happened in the UK, the place would come to a standstill.
Still really humid in the morning, looks pretty stormy, but you never know as we set off, just after 6 in the morning, slight adjustment needed on my brakes, realised that I could not stop very well yesterday, not good, but soon sorted, with a little bit of tweaking. Not far today, few things in mind, first thing is to get past the large City Santo Domingo, so that’s the plan get to outskirts of the city, have a coffee then decide what we are going to do, seems a bit to sensible for us though. Nice little coffee stop, just on the edge of Santo Domingo, even that sounds like a pizza name, old gentleman was interested in the bikes, he spoke that fast, i could not understand him, but he got the jist of what we was up to, big shake of the hands, as we left.
We decided to take the E25 ring road around the city, good call, still busy but following traffic, would have been a nightmare going through the centre, soon back on the other side of the city, now we need to decide how far we are going to go, bearing in mind we are only 70 odd miles from Quito now, meeting Charlie, Max & Lyle there on Saturday, then Sandra is joining us on Monday, before we all fly out to the Galápagos Islands, all very exciting, so Bingo and I, have no reason to rush, just take it all in. With that in mind, we stopped for another coffee in a small hotel along the side of the, bit posh for us, but thought we could stretch to a coffee.
There are a few places dotted about the place, further up the road, around the small village El Paraiso, headed for that, soon found a little place willing to take us in, nice and clean, with a bar and restaurant next door, happy days. All booked in, showered and washed the kit, what we going to do now then, have a beer and dinner sounds like a plan.
Lazy afternoon, bit of maintenance on the bikes and a well earned clean, ready for a couple of days of serious climbing again.
Nice afternoon, cleaned the bikes, Bingo replaced a cable, restful day, lunch in the place next door, all good, very filling, so don’t think I will be having a lot to night, but you never know, got to keep fueled up, only a very small village, with a few cafes / restaurants mainly for the passing trade. We ventured out again just as it was getting dark, around 18:30, little walk around the village, that took less than 10 minutes, then find a place to eat, settled for the bus station cafe, always good food and clean. I settled for two toasted cheese sandwiches, really full up from lunch times, Bingo had a chicken and rice thing, all very nice and easy. Went over the road to sort breakfast out with the yogurt and chocolate and a few beers to help us relax and sleep well.
Up with the larks again, breakfast sorted, me itching to get going, I know its going to be a tough day, good news is that there is only one climb today, bad news is, it goes on for 48 miles, going to be a long slog, with a gentle 2 and 33 / 64th mile descent at the end, the fractions are a throw back to the first tour. I was dismayed that the young thunderbolt Cathal did not understand fractions, hence spent most of that tour giving him lessons, in fractions and imperial measurements, fair play he took it all on board like a diligent student he is, one day he will take over the mantle of running these mad tours!
So off we go, I ask which way, as it seemed far easy to go down hill, but not the right way, just get into the groove and pedal for 10 hours not much to ask these legs, shame I think we have a communication error, legs not getting the message, the road is horrible busy and tight and to top it off I had a passenger on my back a great big grasshopper thing. I was unaware of the monster crawling up my back, Bingo was chuckling and saying something, cause of the traffic and how tight it was I could not hear him, in the end he brushed it off nonchalantly, with the grace of Johnny Morris from Animal Magic (another lesson for Cathal, Linny and Rylan), I felt the weight off my back straight away, it must have weighed all of an ounce.
After the first five or so miles, the road did improve, made it a lot safer and more enjoyable, still quite busy but two lanes now, so the big trucks can see us and give us plenty of room, which they all do. Getting into the swing of the climb now, just taking it easy, turning the pedals, lovely green forest, with waterfalls cascading down the mountain side, as edged slowly but surely up and up.
We stop for a coffee and soft drink at a posh looking cafe next to a petrol station , little village, San Augusto, allegedly monkeys come down from the mountain side, quite often, well thats what I thought the girl in the coffee shop said, as I ordered the drinks, we did not see any, maybe, they seen us first, said not going to get any food of them. On we went, some lovely little restaurants and cafes dotted about, think nice, bit later will have a nice lunch I wish. On we went, thinking it looked just a gentle incline on the map this morning, little white lies of encouragement as the gradient gets a bit steeper, just grind it out as the mist descends from the mountain tops, making it a bit damp, wet and the temperature falling, the work we are putting in keeps us warm.
The nice restaurants seem to have disappeared just as we needed them, eventually found a little local place, nice coffee and soft drink, check the maps, nice little chat “The worst parts are behind us now. It’s all a bit easier from here.” As we sent off again, the horizon shrouded in mist, becomes a bit of mystery, even the road does, so what happened to the worst parts are behind us now! Another mystery.
We then met an eccentric guy from El Salvador, Aurelio, who’s been on the road a while, started in El Salvador on his way down to Ushuaia, not sure when he will get there though, here he is on Youtube. Nice guy very chatty, pics on the side of the busy road, then said the farewell with a strong handshake and the customary viaje Seguro “Safe Journey”
Tough day, the last bit in the mist and rain, made for difficult riding, but a lovely feeling when we finally came over the top, very chilly and misty still, pulled into a petrol station nice hot cup of coffee, to warm us up, then search for a place to stay, found a few places in the nearby town Alóag, rain coming down harder now so sheltered in the warm with a beer, lovely like being on holiday. Jackets on, then enjoy the final 2 and 33 / 64th mile descent, booked into the first hostel we seen, very cold and wet, nothing like a cold shower to warm you through.
Did not venture far, bowl of hot soup in the cafe next door then the supermarket, ended up making cheese slice, fruit bread and mustard sandwiches for supper, washed down with a nice beer, then bed, cream crackered.
Day 112- 47 miles in 7 hrs 47 mins
Day 113 Wednesday 7th May 2025 Alóag to Quito
After are little picnic in the room last and a little lie in, felt great brand new. none of us are ones to lie in bed, but managed to stay there till just after 6:30 in the morning. Relatively easy ride into Quito today less than 30 miles, but will be very busy so just going to mellow out and take it easy. Leisurely left the hostel and headed towards the big metropolis of Quito, we are a few days early, but both looking forward to a bit of rest and recuperation in the next couple of weeks, going to book a cheap hostel, for two nights, then move in to the plush AirBB when the family come out and have a proper holiday.
Just an amble into an Quito, roads is busy right from the onset, as we knew it would be, no rush and no dramas, soon on the outskirts, then we have to tackle the buses and taxies they seem the worst, just stop and pull out when they feel like it, but getting used to it now, sometimes the buses do not even stop, just quickly pull over few people jump out, then they are off again, taking up our space.
Stopped for a coffee, probably not the best area, but they treated us nicely and a nice cup of coffee, nice people, then set off for the last 5 miles into the heavy traffic, multiple lanes and a few steep hills, we had booked a hostel just off the main park in the centre of the city, what could go wrong.
Nothing smashed it really, little mistake, thought we would be clever and ride in the bus lane, no one told us they were trolley buses and could not move to overtake us, luckily a local on a bike, said to me you need to get out of the bus lane as the bus was beeping at me, got up on the path, pretty smartish, all good fun.
Booked into the hostel, least they had hot water, luxury for us, nice shower, then a long lunch and watch the champions league semi final.
Day 113 – 25 miles in 2 hrs 52 mins
Day 114-118 Thursday 8th-12th May 2025 Quito
Some R&R in Quito before family arrive and we take a break on the Galapagos Islands.
Day 103 Sunday 27th April 2025 El Guabo to Puerto Inca
Nice little meal in a small restaurant, they did make a fuss of us, so you know me I milked it for a while, nice food and a few cold beers, the guy was from Colombia and very proud of it, loved his cycling, good night all around, though it did finish early, we do need our sleep! Stopped off on the way home for the normal chocolate cake binge, not much on offer so had to make to with some Jaffa cake things, very nice with a bit of peach yogurt.
Saved enough yogurt for breakfast can’t miss that, with a nut, raisin and maples syrup in the porridge enough to feed a thousand men or two weirdly, wonderful, eccentric cycling tourers, possible the latter, but it keeps us going.
Nice little steady eddy ride today, just easing our way down to the coast again, before we climb up to Quito, we are taking our time as we are meeting, loads of family there on the 11th May, Charlie, Max, Lyle and the sweetest rose of them all Sandra, they are all busy sorting out the itinerary with the help of Lenin, Patrick Plews son-in-law, who comes from Quito, he has been brilliant, all Bingo and I have to do is get there! Should not be that difficult.
Out of the surprisingly big town quite easy, but the road is not quite so good today, not much of a hard shoulder to ride on, traffic not to busy, but still means you need to concentrate a bit more, not one of my best trait’s I must admit, not sure what my best trait is to be perfectly honest, will get back to you on that one, from the top of my head, considerate and caring, I would like to think so, others may have a different opinion, but they are not in Ecuador, riding a bike.
Not much happening on the road, just keeping in the 18inch bit of road we have, the drivers are very considerate give us plenty of room when they can, still gripping the handle bars and very tense, start thinking of my yoga techniques to relax, love how my mind just bounces about, bit like the rugby balls I tried to catch all those year ago. Just concentrate on the cycling, as a bus comes thundering passed, little chat with Bingo, think we need to stop soon, my brain is on overload or more accurately I would love a coffee and ice cream, good thing about Ecuador seems to me lots of places to have a little drink. Sure enough we entered the little hamlet Barrio de Arriba, had a soft drink and coffee, little chat with the owners, very nice, gave us two chairs to sit on the veranda, well shelter outside the shop, their kids practiced their English with us, just a little bit better than mine, said are farewells and safe travels ‘viajes seguros’ and off went.
Riding with a smile and giggle, the way the kids engaged with us and their parents support lovely to see, all part of the tour spreading goodwill around this lovely world of ours, enjoy and embrace it, thats what I say as we turn the pedals and take in the culture, we are speeding ahead, then see a tandem heading towards us really going for it, full panniers and kit, but just a wave as they sped in the opposite direction, we both would have stopped for a chat, but looks like they was on an agenda, fair play. Hitting a good pace, but not really concerned about the pace, more about keeping a line and not getting too close to the traffic.
Closing in on Puerto Inca, not a very big place with only one hostel showing up on the maps, stop around 6 miles away in a service station with WIFI, no luck contacting the hostel, but have a little chat with the family back home and catch up on how the holiday planning is going, also check the fairest rose of all has actually cut the grass, Sandra assures me she has and only took her two hours, must have missed half of it.
Back riding thinking if there is no-where to stay here, its another 35 miles, so better get a move on, soon hit the little town, straight into what once was a rather grand hotel, now a relic of its former self, the guy just looked at me and said no hotel anymore, not good, but fair play he pointed over the road, their is a hostel there, sure enough there was and they had rooms, so all good. Not the happiest of souls but least we had a bed, and relatively clean, you could smell the detol / bleach, though I soon upset him even more, when I cleaned my bike, he came out with a face like a pickled onion, moaning about the water on his sandy patio, I just smiled as he tried to sweep all the water up. Bikes all cleaned so we are happy, bit of rest then taste the delights of Puerto Inca.
Day 103 – 58 milkes in 4 hrs 41 mins
Day 104 Monday 28th April 2025 Puerto Inca to Chongon
Not much going on in Puerto Inca on a Sunday night, had a meal in the bus station restaurant / cafe, quite busy as a bus had just arrived, got served ok, just had the refried beans and rice, Bingo had the same with chicken, nothing exciting, but least it filled us up, then got some pudding from a little shop, had to make do with a Kit Kat and Milky bar, quite nice in a bowl topped up with peach yogurt, living the dream again.
Rest of the yogurt with the porridge in the morning 5 star living, set off just after 6 in light rain, just as it was getting light, heading to the big city of Guayaquil, need to call in to a bike shop Bingo’s bottom bracket is not good & I may change my front drive over, see if the guy has time, Bingo has been in contact with a few shops and got a reply from one, so we will head there first. Also have a contact that our good friend Ray Skelton gave us, Neils, he works in Guayaquil exporting bananas to the UK, emailed him last night and got a reply, so will see how that goes.
Steady ride, all on a highway, sometimes a nice clear hard shoulder, sometimes not! First bit in open pastures, with rice fields and banana plantations, Bingo managed to spot three new bird species today, namely: Anhinga (Anhinga anhinga); Common Black Hawk (Buteogallus anthracinus) and Wattled Jacana (Jacana jacana), well pleased with his mornings work
The closer we got to Guayaquil the busier it got, which is understandable, as it is the largest city in Ecuador and also the nation’s economic capital and main port, the gateway to the surf beaches and the Galapagos Islands. So once again it was just hang on and pedal. To be fair the drivers in Ecuador are so much more patient, it was not to bad, just crossing lanes on a 6 lane road is leary, but we managed it.
Made excellent time got to the bike shop just after 11, aptly named HotBikes, the mechanic was outside fettering with a lovely old classic Rayleigh bike with a rod brakes and sprung saddle. Unfortunately he had no idea what Bingo was on about, re a new bottom bracket for his bikes, finally got him to understand when we went in the shop and the part was on the counter, he just got straight on with doing the repair, not to be outdone I showed him my front chain ring, he said no problem will look at that too. We went over the road for a coffee as he got to work, good lad he had Bingo’s completed by the time we got back and mine in bits. Ended up changing the whole crankset and bottom bracket on mine for the one Rylan brought out to us, far better quality. While the mechanic was busy working away, the shops owner came back with a few friends, they was all over us about the trip, very interested and very helpful. All done I took the bike around the block, seemed great, the whole lot cost us $30, including a tip for the mechanic, great service, lots of pictures and they started to follow us on social media. Great shop and lovely people credit to the biking fraternity.
So all the works done by 1 o’clock, little chat, both not city lovers, so decided to get out of the bright lights and head towards the beaches, more like our style surfer dudes, managed to navigate out of the city, then hit the road for another 10ish miles, to the small town of Chongon, got booked into a little pension place, all good. Contacted Rays mate, just said thanks for the offer to meet up, but pressed on to get out of the congested city. Need to sort out some more routes for the next couple of days, before we head back into the mountains and up to Quito to meet all the family that are coming over.
Time for a beer I think, hard work all this writing stuff.
Day 104 – 64 miles in 5 hrs 20 mins
Day 105 Tuesday 29th April 2025 Chongon to La Libertad
Worst meal we have had in a long time last night, think we waited till we was that hungary, then went to a restaurant that was not open again, then another one, ended up in a very hot, fast food place not good, but mainly our fault, crap meal get over it. So went to the little shop brought loads of chocolate and had a feast when we got back to the digs, with a bit left over for the morning.
Same again for breakfast as we unlocked the bikes from the garage compound, just getting light as we headed up to the highway, tracing the route from yesterday afternoon, not what we like to do, but needs must sometimes, thinking of the meal last night, would have rather carried on, but we did not know that, no planning.
Got on the highway, then just 70 odd miles to the seaside, think the first bit is a touch industrial, with a port, refinery and stuff, then the surfer beaches further up, bring them on. Not much happening on the road, spent the first 20 odd miles on a bike lane adjacent to the highway, then it started to get a bit bumpy with the tree roots and brushing past the hedgerows, all sorts (could do with a packet of Berty Bassett’s Liquorice Allsorts now) of creepy-crawlies lingering in the undergrowth, we soon got back onto the hard shoulder. Going back to the Berty Bassett’s Liquorice Allsorts, that was my thing back in day, when we played away, used to go through a packet of them easily, even got a young Steve Richards involved in them on his first team debut against Erith, he wanted wine gums, but being a responsible adult at the time, thought he was to young for them, still gave him a gallon of beer for the journey home, back in the day. I hear people say you should have a session in my shoes and pedal a few miles, the scary bit would be having a session in my head, that would scare you more, I haven’t a clue where all this stuff comes from.
Back to the riding, that’s the easy bit, eating up the miles on the smooth tarmac, little bit undulating but very fast, just keep the pedals turning and my mind focussed, that’s the difficult bit, heading for the seaside so all happy and excited, as we just carried on, just a little stop at a service station for a coffee and soft drink, nice little chat with a gentleman, who noticed the flags on the cycling shirts, gave him the little chat about the tour, then back on the pedals, hitting then hard as we raced to the seafront.
Soon hit the industrial part of La Libertad, skipped past the refinery, then into the Port area, got some digs relatively easy, only just after one in afternoon, so time to wash are filthy kit, nice shower and a leisurely lunch, ended up watching the 2nd half of the Arsenal v PSG champions league game, not a good result, for the Arsenal, but PSG played better, in my humble opinion.
Little walk around the town, then rest these weary legs, before we go shopping later, already got the Berty Bassett’s Liquorice Allsorts on the list, will be devastated if we cant find them, may have to get Sandra to bring a packet out for us!
Day 105 – 71 miles in 5 hrs 52 mins
Day 106 Wednesday 30th April 2025 La Libertad to Ayampe
Sandra’s birthday have a great day and see you soon.
Loads better meal last night, back to the Hong Kong special, a massive plate of noodles and vegetables, with Bingo’s a bit of meat, felt a bit better after eating a substantial meal, then straight around the supermarket for pudding, what a holiday as the boys are saying back home.
Little lie in this morning, slight misfunction on the Bingos phone, mate I got up 2 minutes after his alarm should have gone off, just how we are tuned in to the world clock, same again with a bit of chocolate in the porridge, basically cause I was up first got it out ready and waiting.
The on the seaside route today, up to see all the surfer dudes, with are bleached blonde hair and slim toned bodies going to hit the surf, well we have to cycle a bit first, that’s what I have in my little crazy mind, riding a 9 foot wave with my long hair flapping in the wind, we will see about that, but it kept me amused for a good few miles.
Little stop for a coffee in a small beach village Monteverdets, tempted to have a beer because its Sandra’s birthday, but resist the urge as its only just after 8 in the morning, do not want to get a reputation, nice little stop though, waves crashing into the beach, making me thing of riding the surf, I wish.
Off we go again hugging the coast, through the rolling hills, loving the smell of the sea breeze and the warm wind blowing in, countryside is still very green, mainly market garden stuff now, very nice. Just easing are way up the coast, me saving my energy for the on coming surfing, always going to be fun, all you have to is stand up, how hard is that, pretty hard I believe. Making the miles just slip away, came to another beach resort, Simón Bolívar, Bingo goes to the little beach bar, going to order a soft drink and ice cream, I have to intervene its Sandra’s birthday, we should have a beer, he did not take much persuading as we settled into the beach mode, obviously never finish on a odd number so had to have another one, with a few fantastic pictures of the beach, making the boys back home think that’s all we do, sit on a sun bed and drink beer, not far from the truth, in reality, just add a bit of riding that’s the holiday.
Managed to escape the beach front and back on the bikes, for the serious stuff, heading to the surfing enclave of Ayampe, last little bit up a 4 mile climb, good to get the legs spinning, all quite steady really nothing serious, then hit the downhill into the village, could see straight away, very arty, surfing place, think I will stick out like a sore thumb, but lets give the new look a go. First chance Bingo stops and the 1st bar, who trained him, I screech to a halt, much to the amusement of two guys in the bar, failed that audition, but they was only French so who cares. Bit of liquid refreshment then off to find some digs for the night, first place looked closed, banged on the door, surfer guy came out, you need to go down to the shop man! not sure about this now, as we carry on down. Then meet a girl coming up the road, you looking for a place to stay, yes we say, I have a little room just down here, lovely place, all booked in, she even got us a coconut drink, bloody horrible, but smiled and said thanks, really nice, digs though.
Freshen up wash the kit, then hit the surf man, well went swimming and spent loads of time watching the skilled surfers, they make it seem so easy, I just posed up and down the beach, will get my board out when the surf comes up, in my dreams, lovely afternoon and early evening though, think I may have missed my vocation, would have made a great surfer dude. My mind in overdrive thinking of all the surfer songs, I can sing tomorrow, Surfing USA, Beach Boys; Riptide, Vance someone, all a bit tired for me, settled for a skater song going to rip it up tomorrow:
He was a skater boy She said, “See you later, boy” He wasn’t good enough for her She had a pretty face But her head was up in space She needed to come back down to earth
Good night.
Day 106 – 55 miles in 4 hrs 46 mins
Day 107 Thursday 1st May 2025 Ayampe to San Lorenzo
May Day up the workers! including the retired ones of course.
Lovely little pad last night, thanks so much Janna, made us fee so welcome, in the hippy / surfer dude place, lovely afternoon on the beach watching the surfers, guy came along, wanted us to pay for the deck chair, your having a laugh ended up getting a beer off him, could have had a marijuana joint, not for me, imagine what crap I would come out with if I was old enough to have one of them. Fair play to the little squally wag he never came back with the change, so we did pay for the deck chairs, Bingo was all for carrying them away, they are ours now!
We even stayed out till it got dark, thats only around 18:30, when I used to go on them 18:30 holidays was just getting in then, how times have changed. Bingo was cooking he wanted to try out the new all the new gadgets in the wonderful place, I was in charged of getting the groceries and having as much beer as I wanted, good remit for me. Lovely pasta dish, washed down with copious amount of beer, lovely evening, let the hippies, surfer and skater boys/ girls do their thing going to bed.
Never heard a thing, Bingo said he could hear music most of the night, me I can sleep on a washing line, never heard a thing, woke up in the morning fresh as a daisy, bring it on, nice to have a cup of coffee with the porridge proper holiday, reference to the pesky kids, who refer this to a holiday, you have to love them. Quite an eventful first few miles, Bingo gets hit my a dear hummingbird [Amazilia Hummingbird (Amazilis amazilia)], I get overtaken by my pet spider a again, sure it is the same one, very fury and a big sack, got to be the same one, following me on social media as well very strange.
Nice wonderful road through the forest and coast roads, every now again we get a glimpse of the Pacific, then turn back into the wilderness, loads of butterflies, allegedly the collective noun is a kaleidoscope, very apt, as they had a multitude of colours and shapes, however I would still think it should be a flutter of butterflies, kept me busy for a while, then get thinking of the Sitcom ages ago Butterflies, where did that come from, but made me chuckle again, as I daydream thorough the morning. I wake up when Bingo shouts would you a like a coffee, sure first place we see, my normal response, as we head in to a little village Machalilla, soft drink and a coffee, nice stop then on the road again, through Puerto Cayo, lovely road, ocean on one side and the forest on the other. Looking out for the animals, nothing much alive, few remains of squashed snakes, some of them quite big, be good to see a few living, maybe later.
Lovely bit of road, hardly any traffic, just winding up and down the coast road, heading to a little village / town San Lorenzo, not many places to stay, so will have to try our luck as there has been very little on the road for the last 25 miles or so, stop at a little beach shack, ended up with a meal, so good on that point then did the last few miles into the village, pretty bleak to start with, certainly not the surfing place of yesterday, as we cycled around the unmade roads, found a place and they welcomed us in with open arms, not sure what they was saying mind you, but the lady had a smile on her face, always a good start, nice little rest, then see what the delights of this little village has to offer.
Well other than the people not a lot really, completly different from yesterday, just nice people, but nothing open, one of the girls walked us around to a resturant, but sadly that was closed, so ended buying a few things from the only shop and made a meal at the digs, least we got some food and a little walk around a village.
Day 107 – 58 miles in 5 hrs 21 mins
Frigate Birds
Amazilia Hummingbird (Amazilis amazilia)
Day 108 Friday 2nd May 2025 San Lorenzo to Bahía de Caráquez
Tried to find a restaurant, even with the help of one of the girls and her two dogs from the hostel, nothing open, ended up cooking in the room with what we could find in the little shop, it was actually ok pasta thing with a mustard twist, very up market, as we ate it out of our plastic bowls, drinking beer from the can, them pesky kids just do not know how to have a holiday.
All cleaned up in the morning, you would not know that Bingo had his bunson burner on full pelt last night, expect for the smoke burn on the wood chip wall paper, as Bingo prepared breakfast with the smallest pots of yogurt ever, they even had some cornflake things in, which reduced the yogurt even more, he was not happy.
As we left the lovely ladies offered us a coffee, who are we to say no, nice coffee in their little room, then another cyclist joined us, Jaun not sure of his second name, little photo of all three of us posing, typical cyclists, then we all set off to together, Jaun only joining us for the first mile, soon as we went up hill, he was off, don’t blame him. Little bit of drizzle and storm clouds in the air, best get going then and beat the rain, which we did eventually.
Only a little 4 mile climb as soon as we left the village, get the oil circulating around the body, just what you need, it was fine just a little incline for a few miles lovely climb, heading up into the forest, past a few little retreats and a monkey reserve, not seen any monkeys for a while, so will keep are eyes peeled. As we head further North towards Manta, then Bahía de Caráquez, on the bank of the river Chone, some 70 odd miles away, hey ho thats what we are here for let get on with it. Quite nice in the early morning, just wandering through the back lanes of Ecuador, watching out for all the wild creatures, nothing spectacular to note, just quite a few squashed snakes at the moment.
We try and bypass the big town of Manta, quite successfully I might add, getting used to these GPS garmins now, well had a bit of practice, then stop for a coffee break on the other side of the town. Just as we think we have the hang of theses GPS things, it sends us off the main road onto this big road with no markings or signs, off we go in to the wild , wild jungle it seems, just us and a few quarry trucks, nice road if not a bit bumpy, as we traverse the wilderness, for a while.
Just a bit of a slog today, as the sun got hotter and hotter, one of the reasons we set out so early is to try and get out of the sun, especially in the miday, but sometimes we just have to slog it out, today was one of the those days, only a few climbs but the last two right at the end, you certainly know the difference the later the day goes on, as Bingo and I meandered up the final 5 mile climb in 40 degree heat, just thinking of the ice cold beer awaiting us, not too bad a climb just really hot, me thinking of the great film ‘Ice Cold in Alice’ got me straight up the climb beating that African guy all day long. [it was ‘Ice Cold in Alex‘ Dale was thinking of: Alex being Alexandria in Egypt. The film was 1958 with John Mills and Anthony Quayle: Ed]
Mate we entered the town of Bahía de Caráquez, me dreaming of a beer, Bingo just goes straight for it, sees the tables outside, says I’m going in there, good lad, before I can get a valet to park my bike, he has four cans out of the fridge, lovely, with a bit of WIFI we duly check in to a hostel about 3 miles away, not sure if we are on even or odd numbers so both decided to count again and have 3 more beers, before we ride steady away to the digs.
All good after a tough day, they welcomed us with the usual impeccable hospitality, lovely people, room sorted and evening meal brilliant.
Day 108 – 72 miles in 6 hrs 41 mins
Day 109 Saturday 3rd May 2025 Bahía de Caráquez to Cabuyal
Ended up with a pizza last night of all places, Pizza hut, in a near by shopping mall, the lady from the digs, directed us there, as she did not do vegetarian food, still not my favorite food, but least it is filling, only got the medium size, we both ate most of it then saved the rest for pudding. Into the to supermarket next door for the yogurt, chocolate and a few extra beers, just in case, then back to the digs. Soon finished off the rest of the pizza and the remaining beers, before we retired to bed, while the party was in full swing next door, no worries about keeping us up, you have not done enough work if you cant sleep through a bit of noise.
Out a first light again, get the miles in before it gets very hot, it’s just hot at the moment, very clammy this morning, as we hit the road, still heading up the coast, to a small village on the beach Cabuyal, few little hostels around will just have to chance are luck again. It felt like riding through treacle this morning, not sure if it was the humid moist air or the road surface, but every pedal strook seemed difficult, I thought it was me at first, so decided not to say anything, hoping I would get over it, then Bingo mentioned it, was so pleased it was just not me, thought the pizza had taken all my energy away, we both decided it was the road and the humid air, as we battled though it like two demented travellers, head down pushing hard. We was both soaking wet with sweat and the humid moist air, even had to take my glasses off, now that is dangerous cant see much with them on, just about see Bingo’s wheel, thats good enough for me, stopped for a soft drink, in El Paraíso still to early for the coffee shops, sat on the steps watching the village come to life again, guy came past us as we was sitting on the steps, with bunches of crabs tied to his handlebars brilliant all still alive moving in unison with his pedal strokes, best handlebar decoration I have ever seen.
We moved on still chuckling about the crab man, that took our mind of the road or the road got better, because we were soon full steam ahead, pumping the legs, eating up the miles, met a big cycling group coming the other way, nice cheery wave as we thundered past, feeling good. As we traverse the forest road, so green massive trees to the left, then rice fields (Paddy fields), banana plantations or market garden fields on the right, very fertile land, with a few cattle and donkeys added to the mix, very pleasant. Stopped for a coffee as soon as the little shops opened, lovely service on the side of the road and nice coffee to boot, that was the catalyst we needed to make us go even faster, up the only serious climb of the day all done with no bother. Then just the winding, twisting road, with the beautiful countryside as we headed towards Cabuyal, no knowing what accommodation we may find, both a bit wary of camping after seeing so many dead snakes on the road, we will if we have to (hope not). Just outside Cabuyal decided to stop, have a beer and look at the options, checking the phone, not much of a signal, but seem to be a few places around hidden, always helps with a beer though, asked the guy in the shop, in my pigeon Spanish, result place over the road, he pointed, well I thought thats what he said. Sure enough we had a log cabin, in a little farm yard, will do us, very basic, perfect, even got the host to cook us rice and eggs for lunch, nice.
Good relaxing afternoon checking out the routes to Quito and basically resting these weary legs, little shop over the road so going to get the bunsen burner out again tonight and cook a feast, luckly they also had copious amounts of beer, funny how we always seem to pick a place like this, its not luck.
House Rides 