Week 23 – Panama and Costa Rica

Day 145 Sunday 8th June 2025 Coloncito to Aguadulce

Nice to have an authentic Panamanian meal at last, must admit more by luck than judgment, guy in the hostel, just pointed over the road to a shopping mall thing, luckily passed a little road side shack, never served beer but next door did, lovely couple sorted a vegetarian meal for me and whatever was on the grill for Bingo. Nice basic food, just what we wanted, rice, beans, and a fresh salad, washed down with a couple of cold ones from next door top – dinner.

Away before 6 this morning, getting light slightly earlier now, as we head north on Highway 1 and stay on it all day, even I can’t get lost today, really nice in the early morning, not much traffic and a little bit cooler, still a sultry 32 degrees C, so not cool by any means. just keeping the pace steady, no climbing today but a bit up and down nothing serious just a bit difficult to get into the groove, maybe a few songs might help, who knows what will happen, not me for sure. Good news is that my knee, from the self inflicted injury is feeling a bit better, no pain killers, just grin and bear it, the pain is there for a reason to warn you, so they say or you can do what I do and ignore it, no impact so its got to be doing it good, thats my prognosis, from Dr House. Well thats the first song of the day sorted Dr Feelgood aptly named, “Milk and Alcohol” not sure where that come from throw back to my two eldest brothers banging out albums all the time, but good tune nerveless, though I cant recall any of the lyrics except for “They got me on milk and alcohol” that will be in my head all day now, but helps me get through the day, as dodge in and out of the potholes in the road, not a great road, with a bit of a hardshoulder sometimes, then it disappears just as I loose concentration, which is quite often.

I call the first stop after about 20 miles, for some reason seem to be very thirsty this morning, sit on the step outside a supermarket with a soft drink and a Snickers bar, you can tell I went in the shop, them shelfs before the check out are designed for people like me! we need the energy boost and its to early for beer. Little break then off again pace picking up as the condition of the road improves, Bingo eyes peeled for any type of bird or animal, just as he says not much going on this morning, I say look out on the little rivers we regularly cross, this is crocodile country! Then have a little giggle to myself, we met an American couple on a boat in the Galapagos islands, first thing the girl said to Sandra was are they twins? No Bingo said, trying to prove he was 3 yrs younger, then the girl said are you Australian as you both look like “Crocodile Dundee” Bingo was distraught I just laughed and had a vegemite sandwich thats a lyric in a song by Men at Work “Down Under”:

Buying bread from a man in Brussels
He was six-foot-four and full of muscle
I said, “Do you speak-a my language?”
He just smiled and gave me a Vegemite sandwich
And he said
“I come from a land down under
Where beer does flow and men chunder
Can’t you hear, can’t you hear the thunder?
You better run, you better take cover

Like I said I have the attention span of a chocolate teapot, but made me have a little giggle to myself, little things please little minds, back on the bird animal spotting game now after that little interlude, next bridge we cross over Bingo spots a magnificent Kingfisher, lovely sight, I was pleased as I actually seen it, usually he spots them then takes me an age to see it. Then the next bridge he only spots an otter, moving toward the river brilliant I actually see that to, usually my glasses are all smudged can hardly see out of them. On we press eagled eyed for more wildlife , nothing spectacular as the pace increases, usually to do with a beer on the horizon, always puts an extra couple of mph on, also helped with a flat roads and good surface we are flying, pull over with less than 10 mile to go, once again that only means one thing, food is second on the agenda, lots of calories in beer so it is a good energy source. We pull off on the side of the road in a little bar / cafe “Vía Panamericana, Río Grande” nothing grand about it really, except for the beer fridge and the air conditioning felt lovely and cool in there. few bits pf light refreshment and a bit of food, then on the trail again for the last 10 miles.

Mate it felt hot we we came back out, but feels good knowing you only have a little bit to ride, soon back on the pace and smash the last bit, into the surprisingly large town Aguadulce, find the hostel, it does look a bit like them love hotels, but it is in the town so should be fine, hopefully. All booked in and it wasn’t a love hotel so we can relax a bit, next thing you know we have rigged up a washing line, all our clothes had a good wash, so had to stay in the room for a while as we had nothing to wear, had a few bevvies waiting for the clothes to dry in the 40 degree heat, did not take long.

For a big town Aguadulce was very quieton a Sunday night, not many of the restaurants open, ended up walking miles, well about a mile, nice place food was pretty good but the service was really poor, then the long walk back to the love hotel, mate it was only just before nine, I was asleep as I cleaned my teeth, slept like a log, next thing I know its morning ready for another adventure.

Day 146 Monday 9th June 2025 Aguadulce to Silimin

After last nights epic walk, legs a feeling a bit stiff this morning, only joking, up with the larks ready to rock and roll, though I did put a bit of extra chocolate in my breakfast this morning, Bingo declined it so rather than wasting it I ate the whole bar, it would only melt anyway. Just as I was putting my shoes on a massive cockroach poked his head up from inside my shoe, fair play to him / her, not sure how you tell the sex of one them little beasties, who would want to, but if whatever sex they are can sleep in my cycling shoes, they can surely survive a nuclear war!

Out of the love hotel just before 6, it looks like it has been raining and the sky is pretty daunting, storm brewing, says the weatherman. We can worry about that later, just get these old legs rolling, heading towards San Bartolo, another one of Cathals relatives, only one hostel and no reviews, so neither of us are very hopeful, let’s see what happens.

Soon get into the swing of it, well we should been doing it for long enough, easing up through the gears in the fresh early morning, still 28 degrees but feels fresher because of the rain, eating up the miles, just like another start of the working week, in the ever extended holiday we are both enjoying. Just keep the pace steady very little climbing just a few little bumps in the road. Both of us have the nagging thought that we will struggle to find a place to stay this evening, may have to camp, which brings all the thoughts of creepy crawlies, snakes etc, that will be fun, both agree to think about that later, if we have too, you just waste energy thinking about stuff that you may not have to deal with, another one of my unquantified words of wisdom.

I felt good this morning, must have been the whole bar of chocolate i ate with my breakfast, so Bingo calls the first stop, just outside Santiago, little cafe, have a coffee and a soft drink, as we look up to the sky it’s getting darker and darker, only one thing for it, lets try and get to the finish before the storm rolls in. That would be good if we knew where we would finish, but gives us the push to carry on, once we are through Santiago, the places to stop get few and far between, so we load up with water and on we go.

The road is far less busier as we hit the countryside, signs on the side of the road to be aware of the anteaters and monkeys, we even pass a special crossing for monkeys, like a high net across the road, brilliant idea, but unfortunately we did not spot anything. We stop again in a strange village hamlet Bisvalles , just a few buildings on the side of the road with a little shop, check the maps for what they are, allegedly the hostel is about eight miles away, nothing can go wrong. When we soon hit the infamous San Bartolo, Bingo pulled off and said I think it’s down here a little unmade road, me thinking, sometimes I do, not riding down that for no reason, so go into the little shop and ask. I show the address to the very pleasant girl, she throws her arms up in the air in a dramatic fashion, then goes out of the shop, to talk to some people outside, comes back with a sad face, sorry it shut down about 3 years ago! going to have a stern word with Cathal, putting his name to a place that closed 3 years ago, not good enough young man.

So what do we do, as in all crisis have a beer and discuss your options, so we sit on the steps of the shop, like some kind of reprebands, having a beer, as the storm closes in, well don’t fancy camping in this as the rain bounces off the road, few other places along the road, but nothing certain, best have another beer and discuss it more was my input, as the rain belted down. So we both sat on the step, bit like the naughty step when we was younger, been there a few times, watching the rain bouncing off the tarmac, Bingo nonchalantly says I would rather cycle another 40 mile that camp in this, I must say I agreed with him, so finish the beers and get going, with the rain, not letting up.

Off we go again into the wilderness for a while, just have to get on with it, but already got my song, one of my all times favorites, no its not “I only want to be with you” by the Bay City Rollers (Plewsy), it has to be “Riders on the Storm” The Doors, with the unmistakeable vocals by Jim Morrison:

Riders on the storm
Riders on the storm
Into this house, we’re born
Into this world, we’re thrown
Like a dog without a bone
An actor out on loan
Riders on the storm
There’s a killer on the road
His brain is squirmin’ like a toad
Take a long holiday
Let your children play
If you give this man a ride
Sweet family will die
Killer on the road, yeah

Giving this the full works, as we battle through the storm, just pushing the miles now, hard strong and fast, both on a mission, me like Mr Magoo can’t see a lot, but thankfully the road is pretty clear, just keep pedalling, only 40 miles we will soon have this knocked off. I came over the top of a little incline said to Bingo, think it is easing off, he wasn’t there, so pulled over to wait, sent him a pin drop on the wrong, Whatapp thing, then another one on the correct one, little puncture so was soon back with me. Pushed on really fast, the pace not relenting, but thankfully the rain did a bit, not many villages, just a road through the jungle in seemed, signs warning of the monkeys again, would be cool to see them, but guess they are not too fussed about the rain like us.

Came to a little town / village, we did not go in to it Tole, stopped at a shop, got some soft drinks and loads of chocolate, sat on the steps, checked the maps, Bingo managed to book an homestay place about 20 miles away, result, fuelled up with snickers and soft drink, lets rock. Few songs in my head, but concentrating on riding fast, so I give up on multi-tasking and just ride, baby ride, another Doors track, keep my mind on the road and pedal. We did the last 20 mile in 1.25 hours, full steam ahead, as we rolled up to the homestay place. Both shattered after an epic 110 mile ride, through some of the worst storms I have ever ridden through. Andy the host was soon there to welcome us in, his wife was in Panama City dealing with some corporate stuff, gorgeous, with stunning views, but so tired just needed to eat. Andy pointed us in the right direction to the closest restaurant, about 1/2 mile away, just as we left he mentioned the cabs will stop and give you a lift for a $1, mate I am in, only gone a few yards sitting in a shared taxi, luxury.

Only just got in the taxi and we was back out again, only people in the restaurant, the lady looked after us so good, managed to order a veggie meal as sorts, Bingo had the full works, really good service and very helpful sweet lady, as we paid the bill and took another 6 beers back to the homestay. Got another taxi back though, these legs aren’t made for walking, sure that another song Frank Sinatra daughter Nancy.

Did not need rocking to sleep tonight, a few night caps then out like a ligh

Day 147 Tuesday 10th June 2025 Silimin to David

Woke up to a beautiful vista over the stunning countryside from the Homestay, Andy the host said breakfast was from 07:00 in the morning, but good lad, when he seen that we was up, he just said come down when you are ready, mate I was born ready. Tea or coffee not been asked that for a while, went for the tea, very refreshing but not Yorkshire tea, scrambled egg on toast lovely, then bananas in maple syrup, good breakfast and wise decision to have a bit of a lie in today, after yesterdays epic 110 miles! Only planning on doing around 50 today, to a place just outside David.

On the road just after 07:30, with a belly full of food, good stuff, little ride on to the main road then head north as usual to David, then just beyond, Bingo has booked a hostel, so good we will not have any fancy ideas about just carrying on. With a full belly and legs that feel so good, we was in full flow again this morning shirts flapping in the draft, blond hair (grey) blowing in the wind, and the answer my friend is blowing in the wind:

How many roads must a man walk down
Before you call him a man?
How many seas must a white dove sail
Before she sleeps in the sand?
Yes, and how many times must the cannonballs fly
Before they’re forever banned?
The answer, my friend, is blowin’ in the wind
The answer is blowin’ in the wind

Not sure where that came, sure I was going to start with the Oasis classic, “whats the story morning glory”, as Bingo was spurting off I need a little time to wake up baby! that will have to wait now, as my juke box of a brain filters out all these songs, as I settle for the classic Bob Dylan number, funny how you remember an old junior school teacher singing that song and playing her guitar, sure it was Mrs Dean, fair play to her I soon caught Bingo up, with my now curly grey hair flapping in the wind, giggling as I did.

Soon done half of the ride, with ease, but good to have a little rest stopped in a little cafe in Hato Corrales, for a coffee and soft drink, well two soft drinks as she did not have any coffee, very strange in this part of the world. Soon on are way again taking it steady but still hitting a good pace, both lean fit athletes now. Did not stop until we reached David, then straight through to the hostel, be good to finish early catch up with friends and family and enjoy the downtime.

All booked in to the hostel few local guys, staying, well one is from Lincoln, been living out here for 10 or so years, bit strange but aren’t we all, the other guy is a traveller from Israel, thought Bingo was Daniel Craig so he is a friend for life now, he is well happy.

Another rain storm this afternoon pretty normal, quite refreshing, looking forward to some food when the rain stops, always hungry.

Day 148 Wednesday 11th June 2025 David to Río Claro

The rain just did not stop yesterday afternoon, so ended up getting a taxi to the local Chinese restaurant, always know you are going to get a big fill there, though I did not know it did not serve beers, absolute disaster, how I got through the meal, I don’t know. Walked back to the digs, via a little shop to get breakfast stuff for the morning, Bingo says you want a beer, bit late for that now I need to sleep, the life of an endurance athlete, in my mind already decided I will make up for it tomorrow.

So out of bed fresh as a daisy, all ready to rock, bit of cereal, banana and yogurt, we are off, the host an ex-USA army guy is sleeping on the sofa, just by the exit, jumps up like he is being attacked, thankfully my placid English tones calm him down, scared the life out of me though. He opens up the gates, then inspects us like a Sergeant Major before he lets us pass, with a hi five.

On the road before quarter to six, heading to the border, then beyond if we have time, you never know with border crossings, always have to be on my best behaviour, quite difficult to sustain it though so hope its not to long.

Lovely ride through the tree lined road, as we head towards the border, not sure what to expect, as they are always manic, people, trucks, cars all over the place, we just have to relax and let the day flow. We stop about five miles from the border for a soft drink, flex the muscles, get are wits about us, then go for it, as expected it chaos on the Panama side, no idea where to go, ask a guy, then he becomes the guide! Fair play he guides us to the Panama exit place, all through there processing a few minutes. Sure enough my guide is still waiting for us, ask him where the Costa Rica immigration place is 24Km down the road he points, with his hand out, I give him a few coins, glad to get the weight out of my pocket, he clears off with a smile. 24Km can’t be as we both look and wondered where we go from here, (song lyric) Bingo frantically looking at his map, I spot a welcome to Costa Rica sign, in English indicating the immigration centre is 4Km down the road, quietly apologies to the guy, maybe I misunderstood him again!. Off we go down the road in “No mans land, full of restaurants and house’s, soon got to the brand new facilities, think they are going to open this border up for tourist in the not to distant future. Massive place, had to have a Malaria test, before passport control, take all are baggage and have it scanned, then produce our yellow fever certification, very intensive border control.

Finally in Costa Rica, another country another day, the plan was to ride to the next town Neily and see how we feel, got there pretty quickly, then realised that the clocks had gone back another hour, bit strange did not expect that. Nevertheless we found a bar and made camp to discuss our options, coffee? and a beer I said, its later than you think! so few beers then decide to push onto the next town Río Claro, about 12 miles away and a few hostels. Pleasant ride up to Rio Claro, and book in a hostel right on the main road, perfect. Few little things to sort out, mainly more routes and a possible stay in some friends of Steven, who own a hotel not far from here, he took them on a canoeing tour years ago. I emailed them last night, awaiting a reply.

Unfortunately Andreas & Connie – Steven’s friends [Connie and Andy came on a canoeing trip to the Dordogne, France in 2018 with Keith and Linford as my river guides: Ed] are currently touring in Italy, they have offered us a complementary stay at their place though: The Orosi Lodge.

Starting our paddle on the Vezere at Montignac.

[Here are some photos from back in 2018 when we canoed the Vezere and Dordogne rivers in the south of France with Andy & Connie. More photos here. A big thank you to them both for offering Bingo & Gringo some lodgings in Costa Rica: Pura Vida!: Ed]

We are going to check all the routes, before we commit to the stay, but it does sound very nice. Watch this space, maybe another holiday coming on, who knows.

Spent the afternoon, doing the normal chores, then eating as if it has gone out of fashion, before we both look at the maps and decide where do we go from here, sure thats a song: Haircut 100 Love Plus One, bit of an abstract thought, but thats me all over.

Day 149 Thursday 12th June 2025 Río Claro to Uvita

Sorted out the next few days riding, unfortunately the guys who we were going to stay with in Costa Rica, are currently travelling in Italy, like minded souls, they did offer us a complimentary stay at their lodge, it is a bit out of our way so we declined offer , obviously thanked them for their very kind offer though.

Another pizza last night, still not my favorite, but needs must as we sat in are little room munching it, I nearly finished mine, left a few crusts, as I am getting fed up with my curly hair (if you don’t eat your crusts you will never get curly hair), another tale from ours and millions of other families where did all these saying come from! Something for me to ponder on the ride.

We are now on California time, according to my lovely sister Deborah, always checking up on her two very young siblings, 7 hours behind the UK, so we have the cracking idea of getting up earlier to beat the morning rush hour, more correctly ride before the sun gets up, if it carries on like this, we will be getting up before we go to bed! Pinched that from an old Monty Python sketch.

We are out on the road at 5:30 and rocking, it’s that early I still have porridge dripping down my shirt, always nice to have an extra snack, got a banana in my back shirt pocket and a packet of mini snickers in my front bag, been there a couple of day so do need eating. Heading north again, towards Ojochal on the pacific coast, loads of places to stay so not unduly worried, just pedal and keep pedalling. Still on highway 2 (Pacific Highway) pretty busy at this ridiculous time in the morning, most of the drivers are really good, just the odd one that brings the swearing out, but mainly calm. We stop for a coffee at Osain just after 8 in the morning, when normal people are just getting up, only us and a couple of early morning workers in the cafe, good chat with the owner, nice stop.

Push on keeping the pace on and looking out for any animals or bird life, this first section is through Palm oil plantations, so not much wildlife, just the odd guy walking along the road with a machete, they all always have a smile and wave, so nothing to worry about, just plantation workers, not from a Steven King novel.

We came to the junction at Palmar Norte, Bingo smiled and said take the left fork, it could all go pear shaped from here, most of the traffic stays on the Pan Am highway 2, we take the coast road, hey ho lets see how it goes. For a start the roads are good and a little bit of a hard shoulder so good choice so far, nothing can go wrong. Also out of the plantation area, now in the natural jungle, weird noises coming from the side of the road, very difficult to see, but you can hear the Macaws screeching all the time, Bingo so wants a picture, very difficult to capture though, not capture but get on a picture! had a beer or two so can’t think of the correct word. This road is so much better, really difficult to look where you are going, as you want to look in the jungle, then there was a big commotion in the trees a tribe of monkeys playing about, brilliant family of Central American squirrel monkey (Saimiri oerstedii), playing in the trees, how cool is that. Think we may have some pictures, but they were darting about all over the place, really good though. We are on high alert now for all animals, how we kept a straight line I do not know, every sound what was that, did you see that, loved the riding it was so good, riding through the Punta Mala Arriba national park, which went on for miles to the East of us, just as we was getting to the first town, Bingo spotted a The white-nosed coati (Nasua narica), I did get a glimpse of it before it sped back into the jungle.

Just as we entered Chacara, we pulled up for a little stop, check the maps and see what we can do, first things first have a beer, then look at the menu, I have decided we are eating here, Greek salad and Mozzarella and jam starter I am in, best meal for ages. Lovely meal, I don’t think the young waitress knew what had hit her, me eating all their vegetarian options before noon, washed down with a couple of beers. Decided to push on another 12 miles or so to the next little town, we booked it before we left Tochan hostel.

Nice little ride through the green jungle on one side and the occasional glimpse of the pacific ocean on the other, a guy on a little motor bike stopped, I just waved and gave him a thumbs up! no he is back with an ice cold orange drink and a banana , top guy. Soon we entered the little village and found the hostel on the north side, a good choice. All booked into a little hippy style place, nice and clean, the guy behind the bar was a little moody, can’t do this can’t do that, we will see about that I thought. Just had a beer, relaxed a bit, then lounged about the bamboo decks drinking beer from the supermarket! Jacques the owner came over for a chat, nice guy from Paris, then lived in Quebec, came over here 5 years ago, really interested in the ride, and arranged for the staff to leave us a breakfast out at 5:30 tomorrow morning , really nice guy.

Washing all done, relax before we eat again.

Day 150 Friday 13th June 2025 Uvita to Jaco

Never one to be superstitious, was born in 13 Woodland Ave, 13 always been good to me.

Meal in the little takeaway place just outside the hostel, not great but did not want to walk far and had a nice meal at lunch time so all good. Breakfast in the room again, just after 5 in the morning, then sort the bikes out and off, looking around for the breakfast that Jacques the owner said he would leave out, typically French bloke, bet he thought we were leaving at 6 in the evening, once a Frenchman always a Frenchman tired!

Left in the pouring rain, still very warm, but stretching the imagination to call it sexy rain at 5:30 in the morning, cunning plan this morning ditch the glasses and use my contact lenses cause its raining, all good for the first couple of hours, easing in to the ride, heading north up the coast to Parrita and maybe a bit further, who knows, we certainly don’t. Just ride and see where we end up, that’s what we normally do, if you have a plan it will only fail, if you don’t have a plan you can’t fail simple as that. Good old Spike.

First part of the ride is still in the national park Parque Nacional Chirripó, Established in 1975, this massive national park features trails, mountains and rainforests with a plethora of fauna and flora, hoping to see some wonderful animals again this morning, not to be disappointed Bingo spots a lovely couple of Toucans (Yellow-throated Toucan (Ramphastos ambiguus)) in a lone tree, perfect spot, it was that good it could have been a Guinness advert, that would have been great an ice cold Guinness, always something to dream about. On we go eyes peeled, spending more looking in the hedgerows and forest than watching the road, all good though just a few little lizards and some weird coloured toads, bright purple, then we come to the end of the national park, few little villages, stop for a coffee and soft drink in Savegre de Aguirre, little check on the maps all good, decide to have another coffee it’s that good, just watching the world go by, the two bikes in the foreground so we know we have to get back on them soon, no worries got all day, week, month whatever.

Finally get going again, it’s never a chore, just love it, we think we have another 20 odd miles to the end of the course, mainly through palm oil plantations now, not great, but least it keeps the locals employed, love the signs on the road “Beware of cyclist carrying long sheaths and machetes” these are the lads who cut down the palm nuts for processing, we see loads of them cycling to the different plantations, always give us a wave and a smile, good lads. Coming to the end of this route we have on the Garmin, so pull over just outside Parrita, only just past 11:00, so forgo the beer and have a soft drink and coffee, not a great place getting pestered with flies which is nothing unusual, seemed to like us as we smell like a rotting toad!
Bingo does the right thing, I think checking hostels further down the road, while I give my darling wife a call, allegedly she is in the Anchor having a beer with my brother Steve, lovely call catch up with both of them so good to have a nice chat, while Bingo swats the flis! Right I finished with the lovey stuff, Bingo has sorted some digs 25 miles away, mate he is having a laugh, knew I should have concentrated on the ride, but the deed has been done.

Off we go, me muttering in my head i was thinking 10 maybe 15 at most, but hey ho dig deep and pedal in the midday heat, it’s not bad at all, very hot but steady riding, pulling in the miles with ease, before we know it done over 16 miles, have a little chat a decide to find a decent place to eat. Which is not too difficult in Costa Rica loving the food, sure enough we found a roadside restaurante Nuestro Pueblo, first thing 2 beers as normal, then 2 more while she gets the menu, only egg cup size beers! Once again a great menu for me, I am being spoiled, sure Sandra has sent a message over to feed me! Vegetable pasta and Mozzarella cheese salad perfect, Bingo has a chicken pasta dish, lovely meal, with lots of liquid refreshment sorted. Back on the trusty steeds for the last 8ish miles, one little stop to have a last picture of the pacific ocean, farewell my babe loved the Pacific coast, tomorrow we head inland, next time we see the sea it will be the Caribbean, how good is that [Probably be the Gulf of Mexico – and remember to keep calling it that when in Texas!: Ed]. Just amble into Jaco, find the digs all booked in a great afternoon resting, going through the animal collection, doing the laundry, enjoying the holiday, good day 77 miles with some great sights.

Just get sorted outside a few beers in the communal fridge, they will not be there that long so no need to worry about other travelers having them, they would be welcome anyway! then the heavens opened again only a shower I said, yep it was but it did come down hard so moved under cover, so I could concentrate on the matter in hand, writing this prolific account of our travels and tribulations, that’s not a reference to a song, well it may be, just need to change a few words, watch this space!

Ready to eat again.

Bare-throated Tiger-Heron
Tigrisoma mexicanum

Day 151 Saturday 14th June 2025 Jaco to Judas

We did not venture too far last night, just down the road in another hotel restaurant, bit posher than out hostel, nice Italian meal loads of pasta and garlic bread, great stuff, then back to hostel, well got back there and forgot to get the breakfast stuff for the morning, so Bingo went back out at the unearthly time of 8:30 in the evening.

All sorted for the morning now, good lad, once again breakfast at 5:00, ready for an early shift on the bikes. roll out the hostel around 5:30, much to the surprise of the blury eyed night porter, said good byes and we are off.

Heading North east a to El Roble, then have a thought see if we carry on or book a a place there, early doors yet, just pedal and see what happens, first part a little bit lumpy, nothing serious just a couple of climbs only a couple of miles long, so we take them in are stride. keeping up a good pace, I called the first stop at Restaurante Nidia, just at the top of a 2 mile climb, nice coffee and soft drink, still early, but the road is getting a bit busier, not much of a hard shoulder to ride on, so we have to concentrate. Off we go again, it is difficult to do any animal spotting as the road is tight and busy, basically just hanging in there.

We soon turn off the highway 34 onto highway 27, be careful what you wish for, looks like this is a full blown motorway, with a sign saying no cyclists, just ride, if we are not allowed on here they will soon get us off, lot better though big hard shoulder and no issues. Staying on here for a good 10 miles or so, felt very safe, but not sure what will happen when we go through the next tolls, so we decided to come off at just before Caldera, look at the maps seems pretty straight forward, famous last words. Follow the little road, then it starts getting really steep, sure this is not the way, check the maps again, looks like we need to turn right, by some old railway tracks. Yep we follow them through thick and thin, massive puddled, big holes in the unmade road and worst of all stodgy sand stuff that just stops the bike dead, just kept ploughing through it, could have done with a tractor, I know Steven the editor will ask what was the gauge? [Railways in Costa Rica were built to 3’6″ gauge. The Caribbean to Pacific railway became operational in 1910. Other lines were built by United Fruit to transport bananas. An earthquake destroyed much of the network in 1991 and services were suspended. Plans are in hand to restore some lines: Ed] No way was we measuring, from my point of view it was two puddles and a bit, thats an old track term when you can’t be bothered to measure it correctly. Also thought I would have Ralf Palmer (Aylesham station guy when we were younger) chasing me as I only had an under fourteen ticket! Those were the days my friend, when i used to travel to Chatham dockyard on a child’s ticket, mate showing my age with Mary Hopkins and Chatham Dockyard in the same sentence how good is that. Back to the riding only a couple of miles long, that was enough, soon got the bikes and us, covered in muddy sand back on to the road, sod the tolls, it’s easier.

First cafe we spotted we turn in covered in mud, what a sight, now we are filthy dirty and smelling, not the greatest combination when you are asking for a coffee and soft drink, as Bingo settled down I went next door to the tyre fitting place, soon had a hose rigged up and washing the bikes and myself, Bingo did the same when I came back all good, coffee and a soft drink and check the maps again, no more off road! Loads of MTB lads and lasses then came in with immaculate looking bikes, you would have thought they had come from Big Dave’s mantle piece, he knows!

Off we go again in search of more adventures, how can we handle all these escapades, easy just have a beer, see why we tried to get off this road, its very leary, tight and busy, but fair play the drivers are giving us as much room as possible, that not a lot mind you. We pass loads of bars and restaurants, but both keep going, not going to have a few beers then ride this road, so push it on hard and fast, its only 20 miles soon be done.

Sure enough we climbed the last little incline, little restaurant and petrol station on the top, both pulled over as we knew we had hit the junction, felt so good, pulled over to the restaurant, by the time Bingo had arrived I had downed mine and his beers, he was sorting out some WD40 in the garage next door, so quickly ordered some more. Nice meal noodles and vegetables with chicken for Bingo, great stuff.

The next issue try and find the farmhouse we have booked into, nearly went passed it, turned back here we go, one great ranch straight out of the Dallas catalogue, big automatic gates, kindly opened by the caretaker, lovely old guy about my age, took us in with open arms, showed the vast farm, including swimming pool, outside BBQ great set up, we just smiled and said a swim and a beer mate thats all we need.

Stunning setting, watched the rugby with a few beers, typical Saturday then, even cooked in the communal kitchen a nice pasta dish, so nice to have a relaxing evening, good day all around, even with the trainspotting.

Good night.

Week 22 – To the Caribbean

Day 138 Sunday 1st June 2025 Peurto Tejada to Andalucia

Well we are in June and still riding, the way it’s going we could still be going next June, provided my darling wife Sandra agrees, already been reprimanded for using the wrong card, sorry I provisionally apologies, so looking forward to seeing you in Texas, in around nine weeks time. That’s enough of the lovey dovey stuff, let’s get on to the riding and animal spotting.

No regrets from last night, just a few beers in a local bar and a little snack, as the locals enjoyed their Saturday night, good luck to them, once upon a time I would have joined them, then smashed the ride the next day, bit older and wiser, (that’s debatable) just older I think.

Still up at the crack of dawn ready to rock and roll, we leave before 6, much to the disappointment of the girl at the desk, she looked like she had been at the Salsa club all night, bless her, I feel great. Still heading North to a town Tulua, we will just ride see what happens, great riding eating up the miles in the early morning, through the avenue of majestic oak trees, sure they are oak, but will check with my ever reliable editor (Steven House) doing a fabulous job of putting my jumble of words into some sort of readable narrative, well I done the research: “Quercus humboldtii, commonly known as the Andean oak, Colombian oak or roble, is a species of oak found only in Colombia and Panama. It is named from Alexander von Humboldt.”

So impressed with myself, I was sure it was oak. It was beautiful just like riding through the New Forest, Colombia also has the green and pleasant land.

All the Colombian local lads are getting ready to ride, it’s brilliant, loads of them waiting at the junctions, all giving us a big thumbs up, as we put on the pace, sure enough the lads pass us with a pat on the back and a massive smile, makes you feel good, Bingo and I got into a steady group and just enjoyed the help. One lad in particular Diego, was so keen to know what we were up to, brilliant lad, teaching me Spanish as we are rocking at 17mph, laughing and joking, turns out he is an electrician at a sugar refinery, actually we pass one of the refineries that he works at. Proper good lad, asks if we would like a coffee, sure we are going to a cafe, we end up having a coffee at his mates house. With the BBQ on full tilt, we have a coffee, Bingo has a big chorizo with a cheese fritter, I just have the cheese fritter, really nice great stop and lovely friends, loads of pictures and shaking of the hands, wonderful.

Managed to pull our self away from the party, it was only 09:00, said our farewells to Diego top guy and off we go again, still pushing the pace enjoying the ride, loads of other cyclists pushing us on, still very early in the morning so good to have all the other cyclists encouraging us, being from solid Aylesham stock keeping up with the peleton with consummate ease, chatting in broken Spanish and wallowing in the knowledge that Simon Yates had just won the Giro, all good fun.

The big peleton turned off with a massive wave and ‘viajes seguro’s ringing out from the crowd, made us feel so good, still only early and we have nearly finished the ride, easily sorted, let’s go a bit further, both feeling strong. Pull over for a coffee just as we should have turned off for Tulua, decide to push on a little further to a little town Andalucía, just 10 miles up the road, so no distance, stops us having to many beers, I dont think so, I pull over just before we enter the little town, Bingo says you all right, thirsty was my one word reply! few light refreshments before we head to the little hostel, all booked in ready to relax, cracking days riding.

Added a few more birds to our list to day: Roadside Hawk (Rupornis magnirostri), Southern House Wren (Troglodytes musculus), Glossy Ibis (Plegadis falcinellus), Carib Grackle (Quiscalus lugubris) and Yellow-headed Caracara (Daptrius chimachima).

Showered, washed the kit, then sat on the balcony and enjoyed the Colombian lazy Sunday afternoon. Good day, every day is a good day!

Day 139 Monday 2nd June 2025 Andalucia to La Virginia

We enjoyed the delights of the little Town Andalucia last night, had a pizza and chips in one of the only places open, very nice and great attentive service, did not serve beer, but let me go to the shop next door and get a few, cant have a pizza without beer, another rule I have just made up. Then back to the Hostel for another early night, got to get the sleep to keep these perfect bodies in shape and keep the miles rolling.

Another tiny room so had my breakfast on the veranda very posh, well it was not that posh but a nice view of the distant mountains, with low hanging clouds mystically hanging over them, eerily pretty.

On the road and off we go, got a lot to do after yesterdays epic ride, not even out of the little Town and have to take a minute to look at a rusty old Morris Oxford, looks a bit like a bigger Morris Minor, my Dad would have been pleased we stooped and took a picture. Off we go again, just taking it easy for the first couple of miles, let the old joints ease themselves in, same glorious green countryside, Bingo on high alert for any animals, the birds, are constantly singing in the hedgerows and nearby trees, but pretty difficult to spot them. Though Bingo does point out a red squirrel scurrying around the bottom of the trees, lovely sight.

The pace steadily increases as we steam along the quite road, little bit more up and done that yesterday still good though, not sure about the weather, very sultry who knows could rain or come out sunny we will see. Quite a lot of cyclist out again, then realise it is a Bank Holiday, they all give us a little wave as they go past, few take a moment to ask where we are from. Heading towards La Viginia or further see how we feel.

Making good progress pull in for a coffee and soft drink in a cafe just outside Obando, think the place must be good because loads of cyclist have stopped there, coffee was that good we had two cups, just taking in the ambiance and chatting with all the cyclists, was a bit busy so waited till they had all left before we settled the bill. Just as we got going Bingo had a puncture in his rear wheel, quickly changed the inner tube, but could not find anything in the tyre causing the puncture, always a bit of a concern, as they usually puncture again. Sure enough 15 mins down the road another puncture, this time we really examine the tyre, found the culprit and bit of tyre wire debris dug right into the tyre, pulled it out and put another inner tube, hopefully that has sorted it.

Making really good progress again, but know we have a little climb around 55 miles in, so decide to ride that its only about 4 miles long and a steady incline, then see how we feel. Pulled into the first cafe / restaurant over the top of the climb. had a coffee and a soft drink, but no WIFI, think it is the area we are in, so carry on, making the decision to not stop at La Viginia push on a little bit further, with only google maps to go on, not the best or accurate maps, but hey ho we are travellers what can go wrong. We stopped about 6 miles North of La Viginia for some lunch, Bingo has some soup, I have rice, beans and eggs, washed down with a couple of cold ones, but still no WIFI, we think we have a couple of hostels / hotels up this road or we can turn right and head into the wilderness and hope we can find a place there.

Decide to take the sensible option and stay on the road, first three places where a no go, first was a private club, second was a truck repair yard now and the third was a place of ill repute, not going to stay there, thats how good google maps are. We carry on, come to a ramshackled place on the road, nice lady says no room, but you may get a place up the road, hopefully. On we go less than a mile we come to a sign “Restaurante y Echohotel” Bingo speaks to the guy on the corner, he just points up this track, you know what they say about faint hearts and pigs well leave it as that as my Mum reads this! so off we went up the track, met the wonderful lady who is the manager, start my well rehearsed patter in Spanish she relies very casually do you speak English, with a wry smile sure, she speaks better English than me, soon got everything in order, room and a bar tab how good is that, like we said the sun always shines on the righteous, though no WIFI, which is not a bad thing now and again, though we could do with some more routes, sure we can blag it tomorrow.

Really nice afternoon relaxing, while Bingo fixed his two inner tubes, then repairing the lights in the cabin, then playing the guessing games on which route we will take tomorrow, will worry about that in the morning.

Day 140 Tuesday 3rd June 2025 La Virginia to La Pintada

Nice little meal in the wonderful eco restaurant cum hotel last night, sure we was the last one standing, which is a great feat for us, fair play it was only 19:30. Everyone had gone on their merry way, really cool place to stay, looks like they do a lot of school kids activities looking after the environment and encouraging wildlife conservation very impressive will certainly give them a five star review, top guys. Palo Verde Restaurant Eco Hotel.

Even the gate man was super friendly in the morning as he waved us goodbye with a slight shake of the head, thinking what an earth are these old guys upto, just smiled at him as we left. No maps for me today, as we had no WIFI , just do what I normally do pedal and turn when I am told to! Sometimes I am obedient, not very often though. Few little climbs, would tell you where we are going but have not got a scobby do, somewhere in the general direction of Medellín, I hope.

Knew we had a tunnel that might be a little bit leery, if they let us through, just keep pedaling nothing can go wrong, up we go with a massive sign warning of a tunnel “Tunel Arturo Gomez Jaramillo” not sure who he is, maybe the guy who let all the Hippos out in Colombia who knows, sure my editor will correct me in his usually diligent manner. [He was the head of the National Federation of Coffee Growers of Colombia in the 1930s: Ed] We still keep climbing through a bit of road works the guys waving us through, we both feel great we will get through the tunnel. We get to the entrance, have a bit of a chat with the workmen, sort out the headtorch and rear lights, then say “Vamos” lets go, oh no Mr security pops up, rambles on for about 5 mins, the gist of it is we can’t cycle have to get a lift, the workmen give us a wry smile. Of we go down the road with our tails between our legs and start thumbing, me always trying for an extra inch, go back to the workmen and ask them if they can take us through, for some dollars, sure one guy wanted to, but his miserable boss put a stop to it.

No worries the sun always shines on the good, forgot the biblical term righteous I think, so what we waited and thumbed a lift. Sure as eggs are eggs after about 40 minutes two vans stopped plastered with logos “Ushuaia to Alaska”, they had no room in the vans, but such good people came up with a plan! tie the bikes on the back of one van, put all the bags in the front van, with the two big dogs, then Bingo in one van and me in the other, as we slowly went through the tunnel, so good and wonderful people. We all got out the other side hug, handshakes and smiles all around, loads of pictures and exchanging social media stuff and stickers: “CALIMBA BUCEANDO POR AMERICA” and AL EXITO SIN ESCALA” CALIMBA DIVING THROUGH AMERICA and TO SUCCESS WITHOUT A SCALE respectably, really great character that will stay with me forever, great people respect and one more thing “We are not Hippies we are Happies”
Once again so humble to meet such wonderful people, thats what this game is all about viajes seguros to all and sundry keep the red flag flying and travel.

With all our good-byes and safe travel off we went on are separate ways with the same common goal travel and help people what a great philosophy, really gives you a boost when you meet like minded people who are willing to go the extra mile to help another traveller, actually met them again as we went through the peaje, they had to queue up we just skip around the right hand lane, nice little wave and toot of the horn. Lovely bit of downhill now, with a few little spikes, nothing serious, originally heading for a little town La Felisa, but think that may change and put on a few extra miles, first on the agenda is to get down to the Cauca river then hug the fast flowing river, the road was glorious, reminiscent of the Wye valley down to Chepstow, just that the river was flowing a lot faster and the valley a bit steeper and higher, lovely riding. Stopped for a bite to eat and a celebratory beer in a riverside restaurant, very nice setting food was the standard rice, beans and eggs, my staple diet. Also make the decision to push onto the town La Pintada, another two hours riding, the scenery is that good let’s do it. No hostel booked, but plenty available in the town, famous last words, but sure we will find a place. Nice easy pace following the river, think the river is flowing down hill, so the road must go down! They never do, as we start climbing up the valley, through the lovely green forest danger signs beware of the Anteaters and Armadillo, though we did not see any live ones, plenty of squashed Armadillos though. The road just went up into the forest making for a lovely view of the valley below, but hard work getting up there in the midday sun, like all good climbs, my favourite ones that is, there was a bar / restaurant at the top, just what I needed a cool beer, well plural beers. Just sitting on the table waxing lyrical about the days ride, cold beers marvellous, I just moved my sunglasses, then got stung by a little wasp thing, mate sometimes these make me go into an anaphylaxis, had a night in hospital last summer due to the blighters. The thing is the sting does not hurt, but getting good at understanding what goes on so with my EpiPen at the ready, just relaxed, with a minute I get a itchy feeling all over my body, then start to swell, waited for this to happen, brilliant nothing, Bingo asks how I am, said feeling confident that all is good, as he takes a drink out of beer then spits a wasp out, sod the even / odd numbers we are out of here, carefully checked my beer then obviously finished it before we left.

About 10 miles from La Pintada, all downhill, back to the riverside, then the warning signs appeared for Green Iguana (Iguana Iguana), sure enough there was loads of them laying in the sun, then scuttling off as we sped past. Soon came in to La Pintada, Bingo noticed a riverside hotel complex, with chalets nice gardens, lets go in, all booked in for the night, just have to wait for the room to be ready, sat outside with a cold beer, and watched the hummingbirds dart around the shrubs, really difficult to get a good picture, they move so fast, also The Red-bellied Macaws in the oak trees, really great seeing the wildlife., little swim in the pool as we waited for the room to be prepared, had a shower – and got a few looks last time we dived into the pool with the cycling kit still on!

Nice relaxing meal, in a stunning setting, sorted out a route for tomorrow and was able to download it onto the Garmins, so all set for a big push into Medellín, tomorrow.

Day 141 Wednesday 4th June 2025 La Pintada to Medellín

Breakfast in the chalet, bikes all packed and ready to go, just after 5:30, early start as we have a 25mile climb straight away, well that was what we thought, first obstacle we could not get of the complex, main gates locked. Bingo went back to find someone who could open them, I looked at the perimeter fence, see if we could get the bikes over it, Bingo could not find anyone, I noticed a gap in the fence so got the bikes through that, then we are off. So we thought, got a bit lost going through the town, ended up on a footbridge over the river, had to take all the bags off the bikes to get through the barriers, we will get going soon.

This time we are off, straight into the climb, both knew it would be about 5 hours climbing, so just get the legs going and pedal, I try not to think of the distance, just keep a steady pace going, in a gear that can handle the incline, easier said than done though, cant help seeing the KM signs as you go up, end up trying to look away when you see them coming, just a little game. Its going to be a tough morning, thats for sure, but still manage to get a few songs out in the early stages, while I am still feeling fresh, blast out a few Doors numbers for my great friend Billy Plews, used to be our go to LP all those years ago, well the Doors and Bay City Rollers, but we tend to keep the latter one to ourself for obvious reasons. First one has to be “Celebration of the Lizard”
The only bits I can remember off the top of my head:

“Let the carnival bells ring
Let the serpent sing
Let everything
We came down the rivers and highways
We came down from forests and falls
We came down from Carson and Springfield
We came down from Phoenix enthralled
And I can tell you the names of the Kingdom
I can tell you the things that you know
Listening for a fistful of silence
Climbing valleys into the shade
I am the Lizard King
Retire now to your tents and to your dreams
Tomorrow we enter the town of my birth
I want to be ready”

Blasting this out, in a bit of a RAP style, as we go up and up, makes the miles slip away, sure I am mixing up the lyrics but who cares, see Bingo in the distance, he has sped away, can’t put up with my singing, who can blame him, but feeling good and the legs working fine. Follow that up with some sort of version of “People are Strange”:

“When you’re strange
Faces come out of the rain
When you’re strange
No one remembers your name
When you’re strange
When you’re strange
When you’re strange
People are strange
When you’re a stranger
Faces look ugly
When you’re alone”

Before I know it we are over halfway, Bingo has the coffee and soft drink ready, as we look out on to the murky, sultry morning, both covered in sweat, but feels good to have got over the hallway mark, then with a hint of irony Bingo casually mentions that’s the easy part done then, not what you want to hear, but the truth needs to be said. Nice little break then off we go again. Yep he is right it does ramp up a bit more, that puts an end to my singing for a while, bit of peace and quite and concentrate on getting this baby over the mountain, probably the last big climb in Colombia. Bingo still ahead, never try and push a big climb, just get on your pace and stay with it

With about 5 miles to the end of the climb, a guy on a motor bike draws level with me, we are chatting, then out of the blue, he says you like a tow, me always up for a laugh goes ok why not (really not one of my best decisions), he ties this bit of rope to the front of my bike the other end to his motorbike, off he went bloody scary as the rope pulled me all over the place, me screaming like a baby stop, Stop, why can’t you remember the Spanish for stop when you are Sxxxxxxx your self!, then I fell off in the middle of the roads, jumped straight back up, really shaken up, got to the side of the road, he wanted to carry on, I basically told him to do one, untied the rope and let him go. Laid on the grass verge thinking to myself why did I do that, not sure, seemed like a bit of a laugh, I can assure you it wasn’t, guy came over the fence, not sure where from, but had a cold drink and obviously had seen it all, asked if I was all right, pride took over sure I am, but thanked him for the cold drink, then started again. My left knee was throbbing and hurt when I was off the saddle, so stayed in the saddle as much as I could, all the time thinking to myself what an idiot.

Seemed the longest 4 miles in living memory, but finally managed to come over the top, Bingo waiting in the bar, with a coffee and soft drink, had blood dripping from my elbow and knee, told him what happened he just replied bloody idiot, but the same driver asked him if he wanted a tow, he did the correct thing and said No, wish I was that sensible, message to self grow up!.

Least it was mainly down hill from here to Medellín, well I hope so, started the descent, knee still throbbing but least I can ride. Stopped for lunch at Caldas, busy little place, next to a bus terminal, only just got seated, when the heavens opened, massive storm blew in, only one thing to do have a spot of lunch, few beers to ease my sore knee and wait for the storm to blow over. Only took about half an hour then all clear again, little skip into the massive city of Medellin. We got split up in the traffic, Bingo managed to find the hotel straight away, I went to the pin drop he had sent before he went to the hotel so arrived about 45 mins later, but all good. Nice Hotel lovely hot shower and wash the kit, before we go out for something to eat.

Well we are crossing the Darien Gap tomorrow, admittedly not how we have liked to, would have loved to cross it on land, but sadly that is at least a 10 day trek, if you can get permission and some local guides. so sadly that is out of the question, next option is to sail around which takes approximately five days weather permitting, also have to organise the boat and arrange for the bikes to be taken with us, from the blogs not the most trustworthy people so have to have your wits about you, and do not hand over the money until you and the bikes are on the boat. So we have taken the easy option and flying from Medellin to Panama City, only a hour and quarter flight, but have to pack up all the bikes, get them to the airport etc, so a busy day tomorrow, sorting out the bike boxes and transport.

Day 142 Thursday 5th June 2025 Medellín

Big lazy breakfast in the hotel, then head downtown for today’s mission, locate some bikes shops and get a couple of cardboard bike boxes. Nice and easy you would think, had a bit of a runaround but eventually managed to get two boxes, guys in the shop not very helpful tried to get a roll of adhesive tape off them as they charged us for the boxes, only a fiver but they could have given us a roll of tape. Then back to the hotel to pack all the bikes and gear up ready for tomorrows flight, have to cut the boxes down to the regulation size, the airlines are very strict on the size and weight of the boxes. Get them all packed and taped up, size is fine not to sure on the weight though, will find out tomorrow.

Spent the rest of the afternoon looking around the city, obviously ended up in a bar, this tour is either riding or in a bar, good stuff though. Also took the chance to have a massive pasta meal, including starters and pudding, you never know when we will get the chance. Then back to the hotel and a nightcap.

A picture of the overall ride through South America

142 days, 7984 miles with 652.5hrs in the saddle

Details of the South America ride country by country

Day 143 Friday 6th June 2025 Medellín to Panama City

Another lazy breakfast then down to the lobby to try and get a taxi to take us and the boxes upto the airport about 30 minutes away. With the help of the porters got both bikes, Bingo and I squeezed in, getting up to the airport very early as it’s always difficult with the bikes.

Not a great start got ripped off by the guy dishing out the trolleys at the airport he run away with Bingo’s change, brave man. Then straight to the Avianca desk, not going good the girl at the desk said we need an outward bound flight out of Panama, before we can board the plane, though she did eventually check the two bikes in, after stringently checking we have paid for both bikes, she had a face like a pickled onion all the time she was dealing with us and we had both had a shower and in are best clothes, miserable git I thought.

Then told us to come back when we had the outward bound flight details. So had to go to the Avianca flight desk, finally go found a helpful guy, he apologised but said if we purchased a flexible return flight, we can cancel it later today at a small cost! So brought the return flights then went back to Madam Butterfly at the boarding card desk, she smuggly gave us the boarding cards and the receipts for the bikes, wow how difficult was that. One more thing Bingo wanted to go outside see if he could find the robbing git who run away with his change, not sure if it was the same guy, but he got both barrels, was lucky he got away lightly as we left, Bingo said he was a disgrace to Colombia.

Least he felt better after that, then through passport and security control with no issues, just have to wait for the flight now. It was delayed by 4 hours, not great, but least we had some beverages to help pass the time, trying to keep positive, enjoy the rest day. Probably not the best place to have a rest day airport departure lounge with the uncomfortable seats, only designed for a couple of hours sitting. Had a joke with the bar man he was finishing his shift and wanted us to settle the bill, only 50,000 Columbia dollars, about £30, he said hope your not here when I return tomorrow, I certainly hope not.

Great we landed in Panama City, straight through passport control with the usual questions, where are you staying, I so want to say I have not a clue mate, but give him the address of the hotel, all is fine, he lets us through with the obligatory half smile or a security guard twitch who knows. Now the exciting part will the bikes be joining us on this part of the adventure / holiday, according to my tag thing its here, yippee ask a guy where the large luggage comes out he casually say here where he is sitting, ask him if we can get a trolley $5 mate, we have not dollar, tough was his reply, finally Bingo gets a $50 note out, his eyes light up, then says he will get some change what he duly does, but then wants a tip! he follows us through the last baggage scan, the lady on the desk was more interested in our athletic bodies than looking at the scan, sure she loved my wavy, curly hair, as I swept it of my eyes posing, or just bored at looking at cardboard boxes all day, probably the latter. Well here we are in Panama, was thinking of unpacking the boxes at the airport and riding to the hotel, but after the delay just got a cab straight to the hotel, with the help of the guy always holding out is hand, Bingo gave it a tight shake as we jump in the massive taxi, that could easily fit the two bike boxes in. Just a 30 min drive to the hotel, both knackered after a non cycling day, sure it is easier just to ride, but hey ho we are in the hotel, book in get a few beers and something to eat then ride in the morning

Day 144 Saturday 7th June 2025 Panama City to Coloncito

Well here we are in Panama it some swanky hotel, well its not the swanky smells of a recent flood I think, and they said the swimming pool is out of action, is that just a coincidence. Wake up to the massive bike boxes, let build the bikes before breakfast, carnage in the room, but finally two immaculate touring bikes raise from the phoenix. Breakfast here we come going to beat Linneys boiled egg count, now I have the strength to peel them, he was lucky no boiled eggs, had to settle for the scrabbled, that record is there for the taking.

Well the truth be told my bike needs some more tender care, just the threads stripped in the handle bar, decide to go to the nearest bike shop see if we can get a new stem, so we ride out of the way a bit to a cycle repair shop again, turns out its some blokes house, but he does do repairs, really helpful guy, loads of stems, but all the wrong size, so come up with a good solution, longer cap head screw from my spare collection, all seems fine.

So finally off in Panama, what do I know about Panama, most people will think of the hats, be being a bit off the wall, think about my dear friend David Griffin (Ben to me, named after his great Dad another Aylesham legend), well Ben always liked a Panama cigar, then used to give me a little taste in my younger days, obviously I never looked old enough to smoke them so just used to wet the end, he hated that, but like the great bloke he was, always gave me another chance, what a great Aylesham family, so lucky to live just around the corner from them, love them from the bottom of my heart thanks for the lovely times, thanks guys, be back home for a cuddle with Janice and Maureen before you know it. RIP David, Mick, Ben, and the glorious June, always good for a chocolate biscuit, in the old days.

Well after all that sentimental loving moment, who knows how many miles we have done, but it needed to be said and it took my mind off my dodgy knee, self inflicted I might add, but its feeling better, no pain killers taking after my dad they damage you, but beer does not, still not getting onto the ride, more worried about my self inflicted pride.

Anyway when we got going we crossed the Panama Canal, lovely sight as you see all the cargo vessels, passenger liners queuing up to go through and the massive cranes taking the container off the ships, putting them on the railway to cross the strip off land, then back on a another container ship to deliver the crap from China, just my thoughts sorry. Then the monument for all the Chinese workers who died, constructing the canal, I think because I could not understand the inscriptions.

But we are weaving are way through Panama, hard to say at first, but seems very influenced by the USA, seem more USA fast food places in 10 miles that I have seen in the previous 8000 miles, will not name them until they sort out the global plastic waste, they are who we need to educate, not the poor people they are flood with their crap food, another rant will get onto the proper story soon, but plastic waste is something so close to my heart.

The preaching is over honestly, we just enjoyed the ride, nice to get out of the City, still a busy road, with lanes joining every half a mile, pretty leary at times, but keeping a good line at speed, just riding , what we want to do. The traffic died down slightly, so did the quality of the road, we are here to ride so just get on with the bumpy rides, as we did. As always I was thirsty so called in a stop around the 40 mile mark little village my favorite, country boy at heart, Carretera Panamericana, they did not disappoint ordered a cold beer to start, then a few more, both felt like we should eat, but enjoying the beers, Bingo pulled rank said plate of chips and some cheese things as I was ordering another couple of drinks, all great served with a lovely smile.

Just another 15 mile to go, fuelled with a few beers we steamed it, through a bit of a sexy rain storm, get used to them in the afternoon, airily refreshening, keeps you cool as we push through the miles, soon came to place that Bingo had booked, with the restaurant, hostel was open but the restaurant was not, not a problem for two adventurous athletes, as he had a fridge full of cold beers, all sorted in no time, and a local place to eat down the the road, perfect just what we needed, Great first day in Panama.

Week 21 – To Colombia

A Quick Reminder of our Charity ‘Slide Away’

Please donate to SlideAway if you can. Every little helps support a child who has lost a parent.

Naturall a big thanks to those who have contributed so far.

Day 131 Sunday 25th May 2025 Otavalo to Bolivar

Happy Birthday Dilly, have a wonderful 2nd Birthday, all the very best from Grandad (Bingo) and Great Uncle B̶u̶l̶g̶a̶r̶i̶a̶ Gringo.

Really nice Italian meal in the restaurant over the road, neither of us wanted to walk very far, suited just right, all fed and watered my 8 o’clock, just time to get some water and yogurt for tomorrow, then back to the room, started to read, then fell asleep before 8:30 was so tired.

We both slept really well, feel like attacking the day as we eat the cereal and yogurt, hope the feeling last, as we get all the gear from the room and load up the bikes, have to get the guy up early to open the main door, I did tell him yesterday we would be leaving at 6, so not a problem. We set off just after 6, soon find our way to the main road, off we go, heading North to a small town Bolivar, only one hostel, so hope its still open.

Few little climbs as we head out of town, then a very long descent until we reach the 40 mile mark, then a big climb to finish the day, sounds good. Both of us are feeling a lot better today, think it was a mixture of ten days lazing about and a bit of altitude suffering yet again, hopefully we will get the legs back sooner rather than later.

Hit the nice descent and relaxed, loads of cyclist on the road, all giving us the thumbs up and chatting as we thunder down the smooth tarmac, after about 12 miles we hit the city of Ibarra, too early to stop so we head straight through it. Little climb as we get out of the city, only goes on for a couple of miles so still feeling good, more and more cyclist join us on the road, big pelotons of road cyclist and loads of MTB, cheer us old codgers on as we keep up with a group of MTB, with ease. Back onto the descent again, with all this weight we are carrying the MTB can not keep up with us, though the road cyclist make a point of over taking us, it’s all about their ego (well it would be for me if the roles was reversed). Not a care in the world as I thunder down the road, it is difficult to chat when you are touching 40 mph, but not heard Bingo for a while, not easy for me to turn my head around while riding, old rugby injury or just old age who knows, so pulled over, sure enough he was nowhere to be seen, pin dropped him my location and waited, all good the MTB rode past, thankfully one of them stopped told me Bingo had a puncture 3 Km back. Not great but least I know he will be here pretty soon, within 5 mins we where back as one. Not your normal puncture a 3 inch nail straight through the tyre, obviously Bingo has kept the nail as a souvenir.

Unfortunately coming to the end of the descent, so enjoy the last couple of miles, stop for a soft drink and coffee, get our heads around the 16 mile climb back up the mountains, it does make you wonder if the descent is all worth it, but hey ho what goes up must come down so they say, it did not stop me putting two heaped spoons of sugar in the coffee, I will need that soon.

Left the coffee shop and just looked at the scenery, looks amazing, except for the twisty road leading up, well lets go, nice and steady, lot better than yesterday, maybe because we have dropped down to 1250m (5000 ft), so are heads are clear, engine room all ready, full steam ahead. Not so many cyclist on this climb, thats a bit worrying but still soldier on, got into a nice steady rhythm. Got a bit of song in my head, running up that hill by Kate Bush, an old spinning track I used to use, so thats helping:

“It doesn’t hurt me
Do you wanna feel how it feels?
Do you wanna know, know that it doesn’t hurt me?
Do you wanna hear about the deal that I’m makin’?

Be runnin’ up that road
Be runnin’ up that hill
Be runnin’ up that buildin’
Say, if I only could, oh”

Goes something like that I think, just swapped the running for riding, think I may have a hit on my hands! [Kate Bush from 1985 but was a hit again in 2022 when it featured in the series ‘Stranger Things’: Ed]

Well if the truth be told it did hurt, but we conquered it, after a few chocolate, apple breaks and the favorite one, that’s a great picture, lets stop and capture it, always like to pull that old chestnut out of the bag, finally over the crest of the Mountain. The little town Bolivar is to our right down a dusty road, both Hank Marvin, but realised that this place only has one hostel and the latest review on that was 7 years ago, so decided to head straight for the hostel, both of us hoping its still open. Yep we are in all sorted, bikes stored, luggage up in the road, wash the kit hang it out to dry then eat, mate we are getting back into the groove. Hung the washing on their washing line much to the amusement of the proprietor and her daughters, personally I thought I looked very domesticated, think they just thought we are mad.

Found a little family restaurant for lunch, nice cold beer accompanied by my current favourite egg and chips amazing fuel for athletes, Bingo had the same with a few sausages thrown in. Both feel brand new, bit of shopping, keeping up the domesticated role, then a nice relaxing afternoon.

Day 132 Monday 26th May 2025 Bolivar to Ipiales (Colombia)

Happy Birthday Carl Moses, one of the original riders Durness – Dover 2012 all those years ago, have a great day mate.

Not much on the food front in the little town Bolivar, last night, tried to go back to the restaurant we hand lunch, but was closed! Ended up in a small place with no menu, just get what you are given, chicken and chips, though I managed to swap the chicken for eggs, while one of the customers in there tried to ply us with whiskey, not for us. Soon got out of there and back to the digs for a good nights sleep.

Managed to get the hostel owners to open the back gates for 6 in the morning, ready for another day riding with the added excitement of entering Colombia [remember the country is Colombia and Columbia is used for the cities in the USA and the province in Canada: Ed] and all the rigmarole of the border checks, can be a bit frustrating sometimes, lets see how they are today.

We leave dead on 6 in the morning, just light enough for us to creep out of the little town, heading for the border town Tulcan on the Ecuador side and Ipiales on the Colombian side. Not a great start for myself, got onto the main road heading North, first little climb felt a bit ill, ended up vomiting over the side of the road, all Bingo’s freshly prepared cereal and yogurt wasted, had a minute, felt ok, so not sure what that was all about, got going again, with no further issues, thankfully. Though a fair bit behind Bingo, never mind he will realise sooner or later, just plod on and enjoy.

Finally joined up with Bingo, little chat about stopping for a coffee and soft drink at the next available place, we were half way up the biggest climb of the day 12ish miles, however the gradient was not too bad, just keep the legs turning, pulled over in a little shack just outside San Pedro de Huaca, not the best, no coffee, weird soft drinks ended up with the soft drink and a local cordial thing, actually quite nice, blackberry I think, not sure what else it had in it in the way of performance enhancing supplements, but did the trick. Then the saga of trying to pay, we only had a few coins and the dear little old lady could not change a $20 note (thats her weekly takings), ended up getting a sub of $1 from a generous couple who had just sat down, said thanks and off we went. The last section of the climb went well as the blackberry drink kicked in, soon at the submit with a lovely vista over the border area, very green and neatly cultivated.

Now its just a ride into the border town, thankfully we bypassed Tulcan, headed straight for the Ecuadorian immigration, you cant miss it, Buses, trucks, cars all over the place, people milling around the usual chaos. Managed to ask a border guard with a semi automatic rifle which way to immigration, nice as pie he pointed us in the right direction, all done on the Ecuadorian side. Cycle over the bridge then into the Colombian side, just as bad this side, but found the immigration office, all sorted with 10 mins, both feel relieved. Just a matter of riding up a little hill into Ipiales, no hostel booked, but read a blog last night that said the “Royal Hostel” was good, loads of hot water! So that where we headed.

Found the place, booked in 80,000 Col pesos, bit of a shock, but eventually works out to about £15 for the night, straight in then out again for food, found a little bistro in the plaza big plate of pasta each, then back to hostel for a lovely hot shower, we wish. It was freezing, so much for the blogs!

Bingo braved the cold shower, I was having none of it, though I could smell myself a touch, eventually it got too much, was going to have to have a shower. Cunning plan though (Baldrick’s back on the scene) the bloke on the reception desk owes me 20,000 peso from when I paid the bill, he does not speak English, sure I can make him understand, “la ducha no se calienta” had to say it a few times, but he eventually agreed to come and see. He fiddled with the taps, went and got some tools and hear we go hot water. Had a shave and a shower to celebrate, feel brand new again.

Day 133 Tuesday 27th May 2025 Ipiales to Pasto

Border towns always a bit weird, same with Ipiales, staff in the restaurants not great, first one we tried the girl was on her phone all the time, had a beer then gave up, just paid for the beer, second one got some beers, but did not touch them, they did not have a clue, so we walked out! they had opened the beers, tried to make us pay for them, I just stood behind Bingo has he said No, in the fearsome manner of his. Half expecting the Colombian cartels to be after us (they still might me, though they will struggle to catch us, we don’t know where we are going, so they won’t have a clue), ended up going to the pasta place, where we had lunch, least they like us, great pasta dish again so all good. Then back to the digs, after a little walk through the central plaza.

Another big day of climbing today, so loaded up on the chocolate and cereal, before we headed out, hopefully it will stay down today, few steep nasty little climbs as we weaved our way out of Ipiales, few little cheers from the lads on their way to work, always makes you feel better. Soon got on the highway, nice tarmac and a wide hard shoulder, something us cyclist love, so made really good progress in the early hours, all good knowing that we have a couple of long climbs to tackle later. So enjoy the good times while they last as sweep down the stunning mountain, wind in my hair feels great songs belting out, enjoying the ride, as we came upto a fantastic bridge I signaled to Bingo I was pulling over, which I did. However he was nowhere to be seen, took some pictures and waited, was a bit strange as there was also no traffic on the road, tried calling him and pin dropped my location, was a bit concerned after 15 mins had passed, then the traffic started to flow with Bingo doing his upmost to keep up with them, think he clocked over 50 MPH, pretty good going on a touring bike. Seems they stopped the traffic after I sailed through, to let some abseilers attache the rock fall protection, allegedly the traffic marshal could not put up with my singing. Stopped for a soft drink and coffee in a newly opened service area, not had the nice Colombian coffee yet though had to settle with instant, no worries, enjoyed the view, with the nagging thought in the back of my head, that we now have to climb back up the other side of the mountain, worry about that later.

Not long before the little green monster appears on my Garmin, well its mainly black indicating a steep hill, they don’t lie, so once again get into the groove clear my head of any negative thoughts and pedal, it took us around 4 hrs to climb the mountain, all good though plenty of cheery waves and encouragement as slowly made are way up. No cafes or rest area’s so stopped and had a snack on the armco barrier, waving at the traffic as it goes by.

Felt so good to reach the summit, it always does, just a gentle ride in to Pasto, stopped on the outskirts for a spot of lunch and a beer, only one, as the town seems very busy and not used to the Colombian drivers, they are not so considerate as their Ecuadorian neighbours, back to the beeping horns and hazard lights on for no apparent reason. Slowly merged in to the traffic flow, only about 5 miles but very leary no one giving an inch it seemed, was glad when we turned off the main road, heading to the hostel Bingo had booked while we where having lunch. Hostel all sorted, now for the game of have we got a decent hot shower, maybe we would have if we paid the extra £1, but the shower gods are on our side today, hot shower and wash the kit, then rest, get ready to do it all again in the morning.

Day 134 Wednesday 28th May 2025 Pasto to El Remolino

Explored the town of Pasto last night, sure that was some sort of stuffing in the good old days, we used to have that instead of a Sunday joint, well Bingo probably had a Sunday joint but not the meat kind, only joking. We both felt a little claustrophobic in the little room, so decided to walk down to the Piazza and see what is occurring, strolled passed the motor mechanics / factories first, must have been 50 odd shops selling parts for all sorts of vehicles, then repairing them on the road, great to see them make do and mend, little thought about our Dad as we wandered through the mayhem. Hit the Piazza after a 10 min walk, what to do, sit in a bar and watch the world go by, really nice, the bartender even put a bit of James and Oasis on for us nice touch, nearly got me singing but wanted a beer so thought I best not. Few beers then went for a bite to eat, as it was getting late, nearly 7 o’clock! Little restaurant just had a tortilla and salad full up from the beer, but still had room for the biggest chocolate cake in living memory, the lovely girl wrapped it all up in a little presentation box, I dived in and ate it on the way home, Bingo just called me a gutsy pig, but it was lovely.

Same routine breakfast in bed, brilliantly prepared by Bingo, it was only in bed as the room was only big enough for one of us to stand up at a time, as we was getting the bikes ready to man handle them down the steep stairs, the lady owner kindly helped us with all the bags, you know me I gave her the heaviest ones, while I looked after the valuable bags, Bingo got the bikes down so good job all around, I did fill the water bottles up so did a bit. We are off the first time we have left before six in the morning for a while just getting light and very little traffic on the road.

Colombia the land of the cyclists, that’s what they said before we arrived, they were not wrong, there must have been over 50 cyclists of all ages waiting on the corner as we wobbled past, at just after 6 in the morning, they all gave us a massive cheer, great. Then one by one they cruised past us as we climbed out of the town, giving us a cheery “buen día”, some of them wanting to chat, pretty difficult when going up a 10% climb, but they managed it with ease. Bingo managed a photo shoot with some of them at the top, I was still lagging behind, taking in the wonderful ambiance of all these cyclist enjoying a pre work ride, so good, just managed to get the last of them when I eventually got over the top, just a nod of the head and a weary smile, that was enough.

What a great ride, both of us getting the legs back, feels good, the scenery is incredible never seen anything like it in all my travels, every corner has a breathtaking vista that you just have to stop and admire, this is going downhill so I am not pulling one of my stunts, truly amazing, we were having the time of our lives (no song intended), every downhill switch back had another amazing view. Stopped for a Colombian coffee and a soft drink, pretty disappointed with the coffee still instant, not in the right area obviously, though Bingo shows his true colours and lets out a girly scream as a little baby kitten try’s to climb up his legs, leaving the tiniest little scratch on his knee, mate you would have thought a tiger had bitten him, talk about a drama queen. We left the little cafe with heads laid low, the little kitten king of the road.

Still enjoying the ride Bingo has forgot about the little scratch (I have not), trying to make amends he get his drone out at the next picture stop, taking an ariel view of the stunning view. All things come to an end as we neared the end of the descent, you could see the road twisting and turning up the other side of the mountain, hey ho just have to ride it. Felt so good to have the legs again as we meandered up the 10 mile climb, with ease, just getting in the right gear and pedal, legs are strong again and lungs full of air, feels good. We stopped just over half way up for no apparent reason just that there was a little cafe and the view was once again stunning, coffee and soft drink, we was going for the hat-trick and have an ice cream, sadly none available, where is Johnny the ice-cream man when you need him! (Aylesham reference, they will know him). All fueled up we tackle the last bit of the climb, just as the first bit steadily up we go, the traffic is pretty light, but what comes past gives us plenty of room and more often than not a toot of the horn or wave, makes you feel like superman or in my case Mr Bean, we watched a cartoon of the said Mr Bean in the restaurant last night, been on my mind all day, so funny, sorry about that just had to put in in somewhere, made me laugh, to my little self.

We came over the brow of the mountain then a little run in to a hostel, that’s right on the side of the road, nothing special just a truckers place, the plan (we never plan) was to glide down the mountain and stop for a little bevvy at some time, try as I might, I could not find a place open, must be losing my touch. The last place we tried was not open, but the peanut farmer next door was. He had his monkey nuts (not sure of the proper name) and it’s not an innuendo) drying out in the sun, he came over as we was just looking at them, gave us a little handful to taste, (still wrong but will carry on) very nice, in response I gave him a chocolate bar originally called a Marathon, which was renamed to Snickers why I don’t know, but over here its called a “Satisfies” like that does what it says on the wrapper! Either way the farmer got the best deal, was quite sad to see my Satisfies go so cheaply for a small handful of nuts.

Soon came to the little hostel, did not look great, so I owned up and said there is another place just down the road, that looks real posh, on we went, sure enough it was posh but looked great so in we went, all booked in with ease, and enjoyed the afternoon sun on the veranda, very nice. Nice afternoon soaking up the truly amazing views, even took a walk over to the bar (so called) over the road, it was not a bar, one of the dodgy places of ill repute, soon came scurrying back, as the lad was shouting me.

Day 135 Thursday 29th May 2025 El Remolino to El Bordo

Lovely meal in the hotel restaurant last night, all a bit strange big hotel, but sure we were the only guests, they had more staff on and definitely more pets, cats and dogs, Bingo was high alert, as an animal lover he is not keen on domesticated or semi domesticated pets, they tend to bite him. Up in the mountains all we needed was Jack Nicolson looking at us with those menacing eyes and the axe over his shoulders just like “The Shining”, though it would not stop me from sleeping.

Another stunning morning as we woke up glad not to be hacked to death my good old mate Jack, bit of breakfast then a cheery wave from the ever attentive staff still outnumbering us in the morning. Really not sure where we are heading north to a place just outside the town of El Bordo, basically we just pedal north, with a few little steep climbs.

Brilliant start through the tree lined roads smelling of honeysuckle with very little traffic on the roads, enjoying the early morning tranquility, as we twist and turn through the stunning green countryside, passing cowboys on their horses tending the cattle, so cool. Going passed little villages as the immaculately dressed school kids go to school, no idea how they get their white shirts and socks so brilliantly white, maybe we should give our kit to one of their Mums to wash once in a while, both the shirts looking a bit tarnished now, not surprising after so many days on the road, not sure how many as I am not counting, to busy pedalling and trying to remember the lyrics of so many songs, the one in my head goes something like:

The tree-lined avenue
Begins to fade from view
Drowning past regrets
In tea and cigarettes
But I can’t seem to forget
When you came along
Ingenue
Mono

Helps me keep going as I day dream through the ride or probably more correctly my life.

Stopped for the first break at a small truck stop just outside Mercaderes, had the hat trick here, Colombian coffee (best so far) soft drink and an ice cream, you can tell the sun is shining, lovely little stop just watching the world go by, without a care in the world, we both know how to pedal that’s all we need to do and check that we are going in the right direction which is not as easy as you would think. We have a 20 mile section just up and down a bit but no climbing so lets enjoy it, which we certainly did. Needed the expert melon picker now (Lyle’s work in Australia) as we went through the plantations, stopped and had one on the side of the road, gorgeous, but ended up with juice all over me as usual, attracting all the insects, Bingo just said pedal faster they will not catch you then, seemed like a good idea, so off we went. Just one little steep climb up to El Bordo, and it did not disappoint lovely tree lined climb but pretty tough and not much room if two trucks had to pass, fair play they do look after us, but they also need to push on, love it when they give you a little toot if we get in the gutter as they get through, all a bit of respect.

Finally made it up the vicious climb, into the bustling town of El Bordo, it was manic, little country boy likes the mellow countryside always, made are way out of the town then stopped for lunch, just outside the town, the girls made a right fuss of us practising their English, was really funny speaking broken Spanish and English all the time not sure how we got the order correct but they did so fair play and carried on telling us their names with a massive smile so good, little kiss on the cheek as we left think it’s their custom!

Then the last little bit to the place I had sourced on the map in Quito, way back when we was on holiday, turns out it’s the Columbian version of Butlins, great we are straight in all booked in a little chalet, tab sorted at the bar what could go wrong, nothing just a few sherbets and a swim.

Also need to congratulate young Carl Moses excelling at sport again, well done for getting selected for Kent at Bowls, well done mate, credit to the village.

Day 136 Friday 30th May 2025 El Bordo to Popayán

Another school boy error last night, so busy messing about in the pool and soaking up the Butlins atmosphere, we forgot to ask what time the restaurant closed, hence when we finally got our act together it was closed, could have been a disaster, but the bar manager came to the rescue and orders a takeaway meal for us, thankfully. You would have thought we would have got the hang of this travelling thing by now, but always come up with a curved ball, just to make sure we stay on our toes, cant be getting complacent.

Up at the crack of dawn again breakfast all sorted and we are ready to way before 6, Bingo takes a recording of all the birds singing and chirping outside the chalet, then inadvertently deletes it while we are trying to get the night watchman to open the gates, still on the road before 6 so all is good.

All being well today maybe the last big climbing day, for a while, we are heading north again to a place just outside, Popayán , bit of a murky humid start to the day, as we carry on through the tree lined roads, got the Green Day song rattling around my head “Boulevard of Broken Dreams” not sure where that come from but a good song to blast out at 6 in the morning when no one can hear or for that matter understand me so let’s have it. Gets me through the early morning stiffness loosen up my legs and fill my lungs, as the road is a bit up and down, nice little descents, then tough short climbs, that’s how it’s going to be until we hit the two big climbs of the day, first one a ten mile jaunt, four mile respite, then straight into another seven mile climb, good thing though when they are done, it just goes back to the lumpy road and no big climbs.

Just before we start the first climb stop for a Colombian coffee and soft drink, the coffee is definitely getting better, not a big coffee drinker, but like a strong black coffee, with loads of sugar, gets me fired up to take on the world or mountains. Off we go, quite a tight road with some big trucks, so have to keep your wits about you, to be fair the truck drivers are excellent, they appreciate us going into the gutter to let them past, always give them a wave and they respond with a little beep and a wave, always gives you an extra boost, bit like an overdrive.
The climb is fairly constant, except for the switch backs, they get really steep, makes me work a bit harder and the songs stop on the steep bits for some reason, just over half way up, we pull over, the Garmin is telling us to take a little track to the right, does not seem a good idea, but always full of bright ideas, I just say why don’t we have a drink in the road side cafe and discuss the options, just wanted a rest, no way I was going up the unmade track, Bingo had the same thoughts, but still had another soft drink. Not sure if we made the right choice as it ramped up just for a mile or so, no songs just pumping on the pedals, soon got over the little bump as the track joined the road again, least it gave us food for thought, I wonder if it would have been better, who knows there was no way we was going back. Great to get over the crest of the mountain at a small village called Rosas, with a nice little cafe on the side of the road, normally powered on through, but never on touring bikes, you have to feed the engine.

Enjoyed the little downhill bit before we do it all over again, this time though it’s only seven miles and a bit of a gentle climb, same again power up the climb, then have a break at the top, the weather closed in halfway up, thought about putting on a rain jacket but was already wet, so just carried on in the sexy rain, better stop this time, as it’s beer time, well that can be anytime on this tour, but finished the main climbs of the day, so need to celebrate and it’s a Friday, so no work tomorrow! Bingo chose the right bar, big comfy seats with a chatty clientele, even the guy from the tyre place next door joined in, had all the kids practising their English, really think they should be teaching Bingo and I the Spanish, maybe they think we are too old, they are not wrong.

Still had just over 20 miles to go so had to call it a day after 3 little bottles, not great leaving on an odd number but Bingo is in charge today and had made the decision which is final. Off we go just a straight road, with a few little bumps into Popayán, which turns out to be a busy little place, but skittled through it with ease, straight to the hostel, which we had not booked! Turned up like two soaked rats, but nice as pie got us booked in and even gave us a beer while they got the room ready, thinking they know us too well.

Really nice hot shower is always a bonus, wash the kit, but I’m not sure it will get dry, if it’s not dry, I will sleep in it, like an excited school kid, it will dry then. Bingo ventured out in the rain to get some late lunch, half a pizza and chips washed down with a few cans, feeling great, ready for a big meal later.

Day 137 Saturday 31st May 2025 Popayán to Peurto Tejada

Never ventured far last night, still full up from the pizza and chips, so only had scrambled egg and rice, obviously with a few beers, the little town was starting to get a bit lively as we walked back to the digs, they will do well to keep us up. Few bits of really loud music last night, nothing to worry about, I can sleep on a washing line, nothing keeps me awake if I am tired.

Getting lighter earlier in the morning now, all ready to rock just before 6, full up with yogurt and cereal, just had to follow the main road out of Popayán, then head North to Puerto Tejada a small Town on the outskirts of Cali. Heading out of the mountains on to the flats, hopefully, just a few slight lumpy bits, but should be able to push on a bit, all being well.

Once again a humid and damp as we started off, quite refreshing as we headed out of town, soon cleared all the building and on to the open road, bit of construction works ongoing, looks like they are building a bigger road to Cali and Medellín, just had to deviate off the road a few times onto unmade roads, always a bit of fun, but luckily it did not happened to much, managed to keep a fairly good pace going. Stopped for a coffee and soft drink in a little village called Hogar, just sat in the leanto watching the traffic rumble by. Set off again, with a bit more purpose, enjoying the long descents with very little up hill, legs feels so good about time. Good to get on the flat steady roads, not pushing the pace, but it creeps up steadily, find yourself cruising along at 15 / 16 MPH without trying, we kept this up for a good couple of hours, until both of us realised we were hungry, just been through Santander de Quilichao, it was market day, place was busy as ever, stalls all over the road, motorbikes and cars weaving in and out of the traffic, even the Policeman gave up on a busy junction, just left the traffic to sort its self out, in some sort of fashion. We did not fancy stopping there, so pulled over when we got out of town, into a little wooden shack next to a fish farm of all places, nice little stop, only about 12 miles from the finish so can relax. Nice plate of scrambled egg, rice and plantain, good solid food, for two highly tuned athletes, then we go and spoil it all by having a few beers to wash the lunch down, very nice.

Soon back on our way, sped through the last 12 miles in just over 1/2 hour, slowed down when we come into the town, first digs were all full up, it is a bank holiday out here on Monday I believe something about Ascension Day 40 days after Easter Sunday, Colombian take the Monday after it for a bank holiday, seems like a good idea. Nice lady said there was some more hostels down the road, so off we went, is search, soon found a place, not the one we was looking for, but seemed OK. All booked in nice cold shower least its warm now, so it is very refreshing and washed the kit, left it hanging over a chair with the fan going full blast, think it will dry. Next door is a beer warehouse how lucky is that, got a few to help me write the blog, I find it better the more I have had, everybody else may disagree especially my Mum

Need to sort some more routes out, so that’s next on the agenda, before we hit the town, maybe find a Salsa club and burn the midnight oil, that’s not going to happen, but we can all dream.

Well the salsa club never happened, but did have a couple of beers in the local pub, much to the amusement of the locals, watching them play a game similar to darts but using 36mm washers, throwing them in slots on a big board, seemed good fun until one guy through it to hard and broke the scoreboard, probably losing. Then went for a bit to eat nothing fancy, nice pastry for the walk back to the digs, then bed. Saturday night and in bed for 9.