Week 28 USA and it’s a wrap

Day 180 Sunday 13th July 2025 Santiago to Sabinas Hidalgo

After last nights late night swim, or late for us, they were still going strong, when the two weary, skinny athletes left the pool / party, buenas noches (good night), you can party all night long (another song) no way you are going to keep me up, I can sleep on a washing line.

That 5 o’clock alarm call came pretty quick, I must add, not the usual bright cheery self this morning, manage to get a bit of breakfast and fruit into the old machine, did not help with the knowledge that we have another 80 odd miles today, with the first 40 odd through the centre of a massive city Monterrey, not the best riding, you reap what you sow, our mistake yesterday so bring it on.

It was urban sprawl from the start, luckly it was a Sunday, so the first couple of hours was OK, light traffic, but massive roads, six lane highway with flyover and underpasses, mate it was difficult. Basically just following Bingo, my Garmin looked like a plate of spaghetti, could not make head or tail of it, just ride. It seemed never ending and took an age to get through, fair play to Bingo just kept yelling at me, stay left, go right all clear to be perfectly honest it was just a blur to me, would have loved a song, to busy trying to stay upright, maybe time later for a few. The only thing I could remember from the map was the Norte Airport, when we get passed that we have done it, seemed a long , long time, but eventually went passed the airport, just a few industrail parks, then into the open cactus fields I hope.

Had a celebratory coffee when we hit the scrubland, with a few cactus trees I might add, tough 50 mile start to the day, the worst is over now and already booked a place to stay. Happy riding now, really not keen on the urban stuff, but needs must sometimes, smashing the last bit though, as sun starts to get a bit warm, riding hard and fast trying to get to the hostel as quick as we can, 2 1/2 hours out in the sun is enough for anyone, even mad dogs and Aylesham men, took a little break under the shelter of a bridge, chocolate cake, apple and a banana, as we enjoyed a mini siesta.

Only 17 miles to go, of we trundle, keeping up the pace, maybe chocolate and banana is as good as beer, but I know what I prefer, that will come as we push through the final miles of another long day in the saddle, first bit very tough and demanding made my attention span quiver a few times, but all done and dusted.

Booked into the hotel, great guy on the desk so helpful, bikes in the room flip flops on then next door for some food. Lovely meal was planning on coming back later for more but unfortunately they close at 5, back to the room and rest, with a little bit more rest.

Lovely chat with are Deb, sorting out meeting Vitoria’s (Alex, Deb’s son wife’s parents), anyway they are from Aylesham: at Nuevo Laredo tomorrow evening, hope its not a posh do, got no clothes and my hair needs cutting! Also nervous as I need to be on my best behavior, not sure i was last time we met them at the wedding.

Early night tonight, good night.

Day 181 Monday 14th July 2025 Sabinas Hidalgo to Nueovo Loredo

Only ventured out to the next restaurant down the deserted street last night / evening, not planning a long night tonight that’s for sure, good timing though as we missed the storm while riding and it’s just stopped now, once again the sun shines on the righteous. Simple meal beans, rice and eggs for me, same for Bingo with some added meat thing, meal sorted shopping sorted bed.

Lovely nights sleep, woke up feeling brand new, ready for another little cycle ride, last one in Mexico, its been good, loved it “Me encantó el país, viva México” people have been wonderful and the drivers been so much better than we were lead to believe, all good. With a glint in our eyes, off we go heading towards Nuevo Laredo, the frontier City, pretty boring ride, straight flat and hot, maybe if I was a wordsmith I could have made something of that, or thought of a song, too busy concentrating on the pedaling.

Yep it was like that just one big long road, few little rabbits to start with on the side of the road, where did they come from, first I thought it was the hare trying to catch up with the tortoise, mate he lost that race. Just ride baby ride, the road flat and nothing else, few songs whizzing around my head, settled for a bit of Elvis Costello, thought about some country and western stuff, that can wait for the big rodeo in Texas. “Oliver’s Army” first on the list, then a load of weird and wonderful tracks from years go by, even have a go at “I don’t want to go to Chelsea” , fair play they won the club world cup, so need a mention:

“Photographs of fancy tricks
To get your kicks at sixty-six
He thinks of all the lips that he licks
And all the girls that he’s going to fix

She gave a little flirt, gave herself a little cuddle
But there’s no place here for the miniskirt waddle
Capital punishment, she’s last year’s model
They call her Natasha when she looks like Elsie
I don’t want to go to Chelsea”

That made me smile and more to boot skipped a few miles, very easy riding, just need to keep your mind active, as always my mind is hyper active so are my legs which helps, piling on the miles, soon on the outskirts of the border town Nuevo Laredo, stopped for a coffee and booked a place, right in the centre of town, like most big places bit difficult getting your directions right but glide into the little hotel, without to much trouble, all booked in, fed showered and washed the cycling gear, relax a bit before we have the Mexican party, another 80 miles in the locker though!

Great night out with the Mexican crew, another extension to the House, great company, showed us around the City, then ate in a restaurant not 400yrds from our hotel, I had already had a beer in there, much to Javier, surprise, they already knew me, with a smile and wink, just said had a quiet beer here when we finished the ride. Massive thank you to Victoria’s Dad (Javier) and brother (Jaxiel) for keeping us entertained all night, great company.

Day 182 Tuesday 15th July 2025 Nueovo Loredo to Cotulla (USA)

Lovely evening last night with Javier and Jaxiel, kept us fed, watered and entertained, they can always join the House.

Must admit the early morning alarm came through very quick, here we have got to get smart another border crossing to today, by all accounts it can be quite tedious, let’s see. Breakfast all sorted, full of nervous energy let’s go.

Winding through the back streets of Nuevo Laredo in the early morning, just us and the workers out at this time, gentle little twisty ride down to the Rio Grande, just like the Duran, Duran song, or John Wayne film, what ever takes your fancy, today it’s Rio:

“Her name is Rio, and she dances on the sand
Just like that river twisting through a dusty land
And when she shines, she really shows you all she can
Oh, Rio, Rio, dance across the Rio Grande”

Lovely brightly start to the morning, as we edge closer to the Mexican border control, all a bit relaxed, push the bike through, pay the guys a few pesos and on we go, had more trouble at some of the police check points, don’t moan just keep going. Into the USA side, cheerful guy checks Bingo’s passport asks for his ESTA form, tries to show him it on his phone, but not working, I have mine, he just says you have got one as you will need it, then lets him through, I follow straight away that it, all through, makes me wonder why I combed my golden locks, but hey ho, helped with the Duran, Duran song, so all’s good.

Well all through the last border, let’s rock, just need to get out of the City Laredo on the USA side, bit convoluted but got there, through the industrial side, then out on to the dusty road, just another 60 mile to go today, no worries.

Texas here we are, Dolly Parton & Yarn Long way to Texas you may have some comptetion coming your way; not sure about the C&W though we will see, as we turn on to the side road off highway 35, big sign saying keep your eyes on the road and your hands on the wheel, straight out of Roadhouse Blues The Doors well thats me sorted for next how many miles:

“Your hand upon the wheel
Yeah, we’re going to the Roadhouse
Gonna have a real-
Good time”

Kept us both going as we ride the deserted side road to the highway, stop at a couple of service stations, mainly to give my singing voice a rest, as normal the coffee comes in gallon cups here, sure enough though it’s nice. Left the last service station seen the sign for Cotulla, 28 miles away, Bingo got excited he thought it was 28 Km away, still not far, just on a straight road, with a great tail wind so enjoy it while it lasts. Within two hours we were coasting into Cotulla, pretty lucky just as a little storm was brewing up, all booked in before the rain started.

Only lasts a few minutes then its baking hot again, nice to have a bit of a relax, shower, wash the kit, before we eat.

Walked down to the local bar, always a surprise when you walk in the States, bit of a steak house, no relation that I am aware off, all good do my order from the kids menu, few vegetables, pasta, obligatory French fries and a few wet ones all good, little walk back via the shop for tomorrows breakfast, then bed.

Day 183 Wednesday 16th July 2025 Cotulla to Pleasanton

Little error this morning, did not reset the alarm, went off at 5 as normal, no way is it going to be light enough to ride until 6:30 at the very earliest, so had another half an hour in bed, just snoozing though.

Breakfast then out the door, as soon as it is light, picked up some more water at the service station then off we again, heading North East, not to Newcastle, though! little place Pleasanton, hope it sounds as nice as the name.

Same as yesterday for the first 18 or so miles, to a little place Dilley, brought a smile to Grandad Bingo’s face, it will not be long now before he sees his darling beautiful granddaughter, such a sweet little girl, always has a smile and more importantly a mischievous one to boot.

So with a soft drink and coffee in the aptly named Dilley, off we went, with the hereditary mischievous smile, heading more east now, so not a tail wind, but still coming from the side, so not all that bad, you can tell when it against us as the little smile turns to a grimace for some reason. Long section 30 miles of wilderness, though we did spot a few deer’s prancing about, if that’s what they do. Other than that is was a few nodding donkeys still eking out what is left of the Texas oil fields, still a lot of activity by the looks of it though.

Lovely road and very courteous drivers, been very impressed, giving us loads of room and more often than not a little blast of their air horn as the rumble past. Bit of a tough section so like always I pull up to have a little look at a nodding donkey, like the mechanical aspect of them, but if the truth be known I was knackered, Bingo knows, says with the same mischievous grin, there is a little town in a few miles, I have a minute looking at the wonders of engineering, I am interested in how it all works, least that buys me some time, all ready lets go. Like Bingo said only 3 mile down the road, we roll into Charlotte, they do have some lovely names for their little towns, makes me wonder who was Charlotte, need my Editor back! Whoever Charlotte was she did set a very good example to the locals, very welcoming in the local store, telling us “Yall be careful out there it very hot” great people once again. [town is named for Charlotte Simmons, the daughter of Dr. Charles Simmons, who aided in the development of Atascosa County: Ed]

Final little ride to Pleasanton, only 17 miles down the very hot road, all good just ride it, sure I will spot a little place to get a beverage, when we are a little closer, makes us both go a bit faster, the thought of a nice cold beer, its like the carrot in front of the donkey, it works. Sure enough 4 miles out we pull over, not for a mechanical, more medical, bit thirsty lovely cold beer, then another one, sorted out some lodgings couple of miles down the road, so never like ending on even numbers so we have one more, before we venture outside into the furnace.

Soon hit the hostel all booked in, showered wash the kit, then relax, come up with a cracking plan, walk to Walmart, no one does that other here, get a load of salad stuff and have a picnic, turned outs great, maybe over egged how much we brought, but hey ho really nice meal, then another cunning plan, to freeze a couple of water bottles, then take the rest of the stuff with us tomorrow, what can go wrong!

Day 184 Thursday 17th July 2025 Pleasanton to Seguin

Well the penultimate day of this epic Tour, can’t believe we are so close, Deb itching to pick us up, we are both too stubborn for that, well for the moment we are, I do have her on speed dial, just in case it gets leary and I need to take refuge in a local bar.

Breakfast as normal, then pack up the rest of last nights picnic, wrap it in the frozen water bottles, then pack it up, it will be fine, never take any notice of sell by dates anyway. Hit the road just before 6:45, theses Texans like a lay in, just as it get light. Both a bit short of water as we had used it to keep the picnic cool, so stopped in the first service station out of town to pick up some more water, met a great Texan oil worker, sorry did not get his name, but looked like Benny from Crossroads, nice bloke, few selfies, then ” Yall be careful out there it going to be hot” then left us with his little (nothing is little in Texas) song “Got to drilling, drilling ,drilling, with a massive grin top guy. Heading towards Seguin, purposely circumnavigating San Antonio, because it is a massive City, with a cool Ibiza name, back in my party days went there with the darling Sandra, partied for the whole two weeks, mate I can’t stay awake after 9 now! Enough about that.

Get on the highway again, same as yesterday, nice hard shoulder, light traffic so made for good riding, spotted a few white tailed deers in the early morning, very nice few birds for Bingo to spot as well:

Scissor-tailed Flycatcher (Tyrannus forficatus)

… he was well pleased, all before the first coffee stop excellent.

Stopped in Floresville, for a coffee and a soft drink, great people once again, just so interested in what we are doing, always so polite, think they love the accent, obviously I play on it a lot, milking the attention as always, left with a smile. Carried on our merry way, burning up the ride, before it gets even hotter. Had planned to take another stop in Stockdale, but that all went pear shaped, bit of road works, difficult riding then with the trucks right behind you, my little legs going as fast as they can, but did not seem fast enough for the Monster trucks, very tricky 5 or so miles, so completely missed the little place, they will be so sad.

Though it meant we had to go a little further than planned, ended up just 5 miles from the end of the route, always a plan then, pulled into a service station had an ice cream, booked a hostel, and sussed out a bar just down the road, all good. Few beers in the bar, do the last two miles and book into the digs. What a plan the picnic stuff is all good, thats lunch sorted, just a few light refreshments from the little shop over the road.

Went out for more to eat later, just over the road, normal American fare, managed to skip the French fries and had garlic mash potato, with omlete and salad, so easy to please, Bingo had chicken and pasta, so both pleased.

Just one more days riding and a little one at that, feels so weird.

Day 185 Friday 18th July 2025 Seguin to Austin

Well how did that happen, the last days riding and only a short ride around 40 odd miles, so with a strange feeling we packed the bikes up for one last time (this tour there will be others) and off we go.

Straight over the highway, fill up with water and start the easy 40 odd miles, soon out of the city limits of Seguin, good planning or just luck, that’s how we have got here just luck and the odd smile. Heading for Austin how good is that. First we go through the quaint town of Geronimo named after the guy who used to jump out of airplanes or an Indian tribe, I believe the latter. Fair play it was a quintessential Texas town, with clapperboard fronted shops and houses, with a little sheriffs office, shame there was no tumble weed blowing down the high street, just Bingo and Gringo powering down it, calves straining with every pedal stroke, thighs glistening with 10,000 miles of sweat and work, the grin on our faces gave it away, we are loving it.

Geronimo gone, did not see any parachute clubs so must have been the Indians, nice little place, next on the horizon is San Marcos, just keep going , with a smile and a click in each pedal stroke, the bikes do need a bit of TLC, only 20 miles to go, we can do it. Here we had to change onto the service road for the big highway to heaven or Austin, both feeling good at the moment, swing around on the road, the police car pulled up along side us loud speaking blaring ride on the far right, you can tell we are from Trumps country, me saying in my mind we are staying left mate, as he pulls us over. Gave him my best Dick van Dyke cockney accent, stay right guys and be safe, then let us go, mate he was a big guy, would have took be two minutes to ride around him, but all good so we carry on.

Just a downhill breeze now, within the hour we was on the out skirts of Austin, take the back roads into Edmundsbury Dr, what a lovely welcoming, with a sign made with the inspiration of all Deb’s, grandchildren, nieces and nephews, so cool, just a bit overwhelmed, not many times I get short of words, but so good to see Deb and William, lovely welcome.

Guess what, had a beer and relaxed for a minute, just to take it all in, great afternoon, Kristian and Geraint came over, then we are off again we go again to Alex, he is away for the weekend so staying at his place for a few nights, so good.

Deb cooked the best pasta meal ever then had chocolate sponge and custard, she is spoiling her two younger brothers, fair play we are milking it a little.

Great finish to a great tour.

Saturday 19th July – Wednesday 23rd July 2025 Austin Texas

All felt a bit surreal, finishing the ride, relaxing in the evening knowing we are not riding in the morning, strange feeling, lovely meal at Alex and Victoria’s place, just taking it all in. Obviously a few beers made it slightly easier to digest and get our thoughts around what we have achieved, more important things to worry about though. Had to see if we could get the Lions rugby test on Alex’s complicated TV, left the experts to that, I concentrated on polishing off the ice cold beers, result looks like we / well they have sorted the TV, all we have to do is get up at 05:00 tomorrow morning and turn the TV on, nothing can go wrong.

Used to these early starts, but still felt weird, not to be in the cycling kit, getting the tele working and making a cup of tea, all good managed to watch the Lions beat the Wallabies, not a great game, but a win is a win. Really nice lazy morning, before Deb picked us up at 11:00 to go for a swim down town in Barton Springs, natural swimming area right in the middle of the city on the Colorado river, good stuff. Felt good on the body resting in the fresh water, surprisingly cold when you first get in, same as always the Baywatch guy told me off for diving in, nothing changes.

Just mellowed out for the whole afternoon, Deb wanted to take us out for a meal, both settled for eating the left over lasagna and salad.

Next day arranged to have a breakfast downtown, then go out swimming in the lakes, good day, resting the body and just taking it so easy, enjoying being spoilt rotten and milking it. Arranged to meet Kristian and Geraint, later in the afternoon, for a spot of lunch and few cold ones, definitely needed, then back to Kristian’s staying there for the next couple of nights, even more spoilt.

Packed the bikes up in the boxes in the morning, they both need a bit of TLC to say the least, but they made it, both tyres binned, the front one done the whole trip, nearly 11,000 miles without a puncture, I replaced the rear wheel and tyre in La Paz, still down over 7,000 miles, with about 10 punctures, so settle for that. Also binned the rear pannier rack, snapped a bit of the frame after my self inflicted fall in Columbia. Also had to keep the weight of the boxes down to 32Kg, so any thing we could bin we did. All packed up and weighed in, just under 31Kg, sweet, Bingo’s is roughly the same all good.

With Kristian and Deb working in the morning, after boxing the bikes up in the sun, decided it would be good to take Kristian’s dog out for a little walk, he is so used to the heat, just ambles along. Without intending to, happened to come across the local pub / games club, few tennis courts and paddleboard courts, did not have a game, too hot, just a little light refreshment with the dog having a big bowl of water. Then all met up at Alex and Victoria’s for a family meal, great meal really good seeing everyone together having a wonderful evening.

Next day Bingo and I took the train down to the City centre, it was right next door to Austin FC stadium, no games on at the moment unfortunately. Then a half hour ride, spent the afternoon sight seeing, very pleasant time in the Texas State Capitol buildings, they still hold the chambers of the Texas Legislature, as always though it was thirsty work, so had to take refuge in a local bar, before we met Deb, Kristian, Geraint, Alex and Rico, for the final meal.

Bingo and I would like to thank them all for their wonderful hospitality amazing felt so good to see them all again.
THANKS.

Week 27 Mexico 2

Day 173 Sunday 6th July 2025 Vega de Alatorre to Poza Rica

Woke up to the soft tones of the 5 o’clock alarm, must be another work day, no worries always ready, I sleep in my kit, just in case we need a quick getaway. Breakfast done, kit packed lets rock, busy day as we have a call scheduled with the lovely big sister Deborah this afternoon, will need to get there early and smarten ourselves up.

Just going North believe it not, up to the big metropolis of Poza Rica, never heard of it, but been on the sign posts for ages and a sexy name to boot, well I think so. Pretty dark when we left the hostel, no worries have a couple of lights lets push on, the sun rising over our right shoulder, feels good in the early morning, lots of waves and thumbs up to all the workers ready to put in theirs days toil, same as us mate, I think. Very easy riding in the morning along the coast past all the fancy hotels, bit off season, but still a fair few people about. Both feeling good stretching the muscles enjoying the tourist route, as we go full steam ahead, burning up the morning miles.

Though it is a bit stop and start as we speed through the seaside towns, could be in Planet Thanet, but the people are a lot friendlier and pleasant! just looking for an ATM, Sunday morning running low on cash, same same, finally find one that is working, sort the cash out then we burn the miles.

Three hours solid riding, breaks the back of the day, as we head slightly inland and a couple of little climbs, very little, so little that I missed the first one, as we pushed on, made Snowdown hill look like the north face of the Eiger, carried on, least we noticed the next little hill, gentle incline for a couple of miles, with these calves pumping like an old steam engine we cruised over the top.

Just a steady roll into the afor mentioned sexy Poza Rica, me looking for a little barra de cantina, had to settle for a OXO place, stopped in a little shack, they pointed us down the road for beer, so be it, two large cans, as we sorted the digs out.

Gone posh tonight as we have a call with my Sis planned, need to make sure we are at least a little bit presentable! Rolled into the Poza Rica Inn, was expecting a valet to park my bike, to no avail, booked all good.

Really good shower, felt good ready to present ourselves to our wonderful, caring sister, need to talk about logistics, border crossing etc, but most importantly care for Mum and Steven.

Get it all sorted, in no time, just common sense prevails really, we are roughly 14 days away from Austin, if Deb needs to fly to the UK before that’s no problem, we will take each day as it comes, makes sense, most importantly lovely chat and we all agree the family back home have been amazing so comforting.

Nice relaxing afternoon, good lunch and a pleasant swim in the pool.

Day 174 Monday 7th July 2025 Poza Rica to Naranjos

Happy Birthday Plewsy, have a great day Billy, catch up for a beer very soon young man, looking good at whatever age you are.

Early morning catch up with Steve’s progress, all going in the right direction, even started to moan now so know he is getting better, lovely breakfast this morning fresh milk from the restaurant last night good stuff. Nice stopping in a decent place every now and again, feel so clean and refreshed, all fueled up on massive pasta dishes, feel like I could just keep riding, we will see.

Leave the salubrious hotel complex, back down to the real life in the sexily named Poza Rica, really did not live up to its vibrant name, as we cycled through the main city, and back out the other side, if the truth be known, I think whoever named the city was looking through rose tinted glasses, maybe he had mine on!

Finally get out of the city same road all day heading towards Naranjos, miles away yet, just keep riding, feels good to be out on the open roads again, in the early morning mist, even looks like rain, probably not going to happen though, just keep riding see what the day brings. Very easy riding road not the best but had a lot worse these last couple of days, no worries, though the bikes are looking a bit worse for wear, all the guys back home giving us tremendous support keep saying you are nearly there, we look at the bike, with more hope than anything else, every little squeak brings out a nervous feeling.

We forgo an early break to try and get some miles, while it is a bit cooler, good plan loads of water so keep pushing on, three climbs on todays route, early on they would not be a climb, once again we did the first one without noticing just a 3 mile steady incline easy peasy, then stopped in the favourite OXO, nice coffe and soft drink, though we was moved on by the armed security guy, think they had a cash delivery or some thing, just a little nudge with the machine gun. is enough to say OK, years ago I would have had his gun and hat for a picture, but he did look a bit mean at first, he actually came over for a little chat when his duties where over, still wanted to have a little play, but could see Bingo looking at me with those stern eyes, “Don’t you dare” enough said, or not said to be frank.

Only gone about a mile, Bingo said my back pannier is not right, yes its wobbling, one bolt sheared and one stay snapped, nothing theses two intrepid travellers can’t fix, get “Ronnie House” bag of spare bits out and see what we can do, sure enough, move the rack about a bit, get a few more fixings in place, as good as new, not really but think it will get us over the finish line, with a bit love and attention, think the same can be said for the bikes and us. Off we go again, flushed with the feeling only 20 miles or so to go.

First bit a little up hill, manage that with so much ease, these two bikes are flying now, that’s the problem, we come over that last little crest, with a spurt of energy, maybe a beer is on the horizon who knows, just keep riding, in a world of my own, next thing I know a car is pulling up along side, says “Tu compañero tiene un problema de vuelta en el camino” Bingo has a problem on the road!, I pull over get the phone out, then another car stops, lets me know he is back riding, sweet. Honestly the drivers have been so good, very respectful with a gracious smile and a timely hoot of the horn, wait in the shade for no longer than a minute or two, back together.

Last few miles into the very little town of Naranjos, hostel sorted, kit washed, then hit the town for some more inner tubes, got then all sorted, then eat and a casual beer to round the day off.

Day 175 Tuesday 8th July 2025 Naranjos to Ciudad Madero

Sorted a couple of new inner tubes out yesterday afternoon, that’s more than we did for anything to eat, nothing open or appealing for that matter, ended up with the 2nd favourite pot noodle’s and a couple of sandwiches, living the high life again, took us an age to work the hot water dispenser, then had to wait 5 mins for the stuff to cook. That was difficult for an impatient person like myself, so pleased with myself I lasted 4 minutes and the goo looked ok, not bad at all bit salty, but maybe I need that more than beer. We ate the pudding on the walk back to the digs, just a little chocolate bar.

Back at the digs, all sorted asleep before my head hit the pillow, as normal, woke up a few hours later to a massive thunderstorm, that’s normal, just roll over and go back to sleep ! I need to rest these little puppies. Alarm goes off, bit of a power cut last night, no worries soon have the head torches blazing away, as we go through the normal morning routine, basically have a bit of breakfast, get your kit on and ride, that’s what we did, as we slid the gate open and hit the open road, very early.

Push on the highway hardly any traffic which was good because the road was atrocious, potholes and even bigger holes all over the place, least it kept me awake, I normally have a little snooze in the early morning session, bit of old age creeping in. Nice tree lined road though, keeps the sun off us, as we skittle through the pothole infested road, just working the legs and trying to spot the really big holes, bit of a tough start, hey ho keep going. Rather than stop we push on, knowing, well hoping the road will improve after about 3 hours when we merge with another road, that’s the thinking. As we are dancing in and out of the pot holes Bingo says what’s that on the road, only a little monkey enjoying the early sunshine, just looks up at as a bit nonchalant, then wanders off into the bush, brilliant will take these potholes for that. Next I give out yet another girly scream: a snake sidewinds across the road, lovely sight when I was safely past it, must have been 3ft long, just like a fisherman says! Seen loads of dead snakes, not many live ones so once again great spot, no pictures of either of them, hard enough to keep upright on this road, never mind take a picture. Lovely early morning ride, if not a bit bumpy or very bumpy, we stopped just before the 30 mile mark, nice cup of coffee and a soft drink.

Off we go again, soon join the bigger road, with no pot holes and a nice surface, smash the miles away on this, bit boring on the animal front though, just loads of squashed things, frogs, toads, snakes, armadillos, not great but need to keep riding. The storm clouds brewing thunder crashes around us, as we feel the first spots of rain, expecting the worst, we stop and put on the baggage rain covers, off we go again, it always works, big downpour then within 5 mins all clear, excellent. Eating up the miles, going past about three service stations, there seems to be loads of them, like London buses they all come at once, was only 10 miles from the finish point when we finally stopped, all good though not even midday.

Stop for a soft drink and ice cream, catch up with the messages about Steve, all positive, then have a facetime call with him, superb, he looks really well, asking all the right questions, so good to hear him ask about the trip, where are we, what border crossing are we going into the USA etc, relax the blog will be up and running in no time. Makes us both feel so much better, it will still be a long road to recovery, but at least he is heading in the right way.

Just a simple skip into Tampico, pass over the Panuco river via a toll bridge, touch and go whether they would let us over, the guard just made us get off the bikes, then back on them for some reason, then over the river, booked into a little hostel, just of the main road, need to seriously eat then eat again this evening. Showered washed the kit then out in the midday heat for some lunch, before retiring to the air con comforts of the digs.

Day 176 Wednesday 9th July 2025 Ciudad Madero to Gonzalez

Not a lot happened last night, just a few beers, then an early night, too tired to venture out again, to be honest, sorted some more routes and made mental note to fill out the USA entry form in the next few days.

Good nights sleep, but woke up with an eye infection or something, bit swollen, don’t think I have been stung by any insects, maybe a bit of stuff in my eye, anyway it does not hurt and i have another eye, thats just about works, take a anti-heistime tablet and have my epi-pens at the ready. Breakfast all sorted wheel the bikes out to the front of the hostel, it is chucking it down and pretty dark only 5:30 in the morning! We both sit like caged lions, be fidgeting all over the place, just want to ride, first spec of dawn, we are out and on the bikes, in the pouring rain, big city, awful road surface and me with one eye hopefully, nothing can go wrong!

Took a wrong tuning after 1/2 mile, but don’t count that as going wrong, that’s normal, big place Tampico, said to Bingo at the traffic lights, after an hours riding and still only on the outskirts of the city. Tough technical riding with storm gutters overflowing, really dangerous grates over some drains and none over others, very treacherous, gripping onto my handlebars with all my strength. Glad to get out of the city limits, motorbikes not allowed in it, cant help myself in the pouring rain pothole after pothole, banging out Nutbush City Limits, not sure where Nutbush is though, the Ed is getting better he will surely put me right soon [is a semi-autobiographical song written by Tina Turner which commemorates her rural hometown of Nutbush in Haywood County, Tennessee, United States. Originally released as a single on United Artists Records in August 1973, it is one of the last hits that husband-wife R&B duo Ike & Tina Turner released together: Ed].

So good to be out of the city, proper countryside cycling now prevailed, still quite green, but the trees have been replaced by shrubs, seems to be getting drier now, ironic as it is still pouring down, hopefully it will stop eventually. With the rain still hammering down, we witnessed the melancholic sight of hundreds of little tiny frogs, these plucky little creatures trying to cross a busy road, find themselves squashed, by those who, unequivocally own the roads, or more importantly think they do, such as a sad sight, just hoped some of them made it. On we went, with the thought of all those tiny frogs, just as I was getting over it, a small tortoise was on the side of the road, sure we can help this little man or women out, (allegedly not so easy to determine the sex of tortoises, well down right impossible for me), got the young tortoise to the field on the side of the road, hope we had him / her facing the correct way, sure we did, left it on its merry way and assured the tortoise is still winning the race.

On we go, the rain, seems to be easing up a little, loads of time today as we are only doing about 60 miles, so pull up at the next Oxxo shop, they are go to place at the moment, nice coffee and very cool inside, today we needed a towel though, nice hot drink then back on the road. Taking it steady, the bikes will need a good going over this afternoon, mine is making some weird noises, not good, with around ten miles to go we pull into a small cafe, just outside “Estacion Manuel” spot of lunch both have omelette, refried beans and chips, mine without the ham!, never happens, but Bingo always happy for a bit extra, though, nice stop, good food and company.

When we went in the little cafe, the sun was trying to come out, afraid to say it did not win, chucking it down again, oh well just get on with it, only 10 miles, few miles down the soggy wet road, Bingo had a bit of a mechanical, fair play he stopped, straight away as his rear tyre split, not even a puncture, so had the spare tyre on and back on the road, with a massive thought clean the bikes when we get there.

Soon arrive at the digs all good, very helpful. managed to locate water hose, here we go, wash down the outside of the bags first, then full clean and lubrication of the bikes, well Bingo did most of that, I was tasked with finding some beer, self praise is no praise at all, but it is one of the things I seemed to be good at, not sure why. Waited around the corner till my bike was done, then mystically appeared with the god given riches of beer, only joking, I did my bit, pulled the ring tab on Bingo’s can for him.

Bikes are looking a bit tired I must say, not surprisingly, with a bit of love and attention we will get them over the line, they look a bit better a scrub down and a lubrication, think the same could be said for me, my feather cut is coming along fine, to be honest can’t wait to cut it all off, but that not going to happen yet.

Little update on Steve, progress is good, he is slowly and surely on the road to recovery.

Day 177 Thursday 10th July 20 Gonzalez to Ciudad Victoria

Restful afternoon yesterday while going through the bike maintenance, yes they are on their last legs, same could be said about us, but both feeling good, maybe I am on my last eye, still have a little eye infection nothing to worry about, just don’t turn left to often. Not a lot happening in the big metropolis of González, though did manage to get some nice bananas while waiting for the pizza to be cooked, Bingo went the other way for an ATM and beers. He was successful on the beer front, who would bet against that, not so good on the ATM, hey ho got the main stuff, I took a slippy sliddy fall on the wet uneven road, traversing a massive puddle, manged to keep both pizza boxes dry, while Bingo laughed, no harm done just what very little pride I had left, ate the pizza back at the digs, with a few beers, contemplated the next days ride, big one planned. Sod that going to sleep, tomorrow’s ride can wait till tomorrow, thats my plan.

Early morning rise again, can hear the rain outside, sexy rain now, not a problem, we ate breakfast in silence really, nothing reported about Steve, take that as good news, just the thought of going out in the rain for 85 or so miles, making us a bit quiet. Come on let’s rock, as we head off, only drizzle now and no town to navigate out of here we go. Both just knuckle down and ride, we have next to nothing for the next 30 odd miles, just the road ahead, so head down and ride, nice road with a bit of a tail wind affords for a great start to the day, even with the drizzle that looks like its over and going to get hot, not a detective or a weatherman for that, just an old guy on bike, who has nothing else to do rather than pedal, sing a few songs and look at the local scenery and loving it. Good day today we are rocking, not much on the wildlife front, few tortoises, safely on the grass banks away from the traffic, but not a lot else, maybe because we are zooming today.

First stop at the favorite Oxxon shops, nice cup of coffee and soft drink, little catch up with the family back home, all good after a bit of explaining from the darling Sandra, taking the technical stuff out, and giving the updates in laymans terms, so grateful for all the work the close family back home have done, makes us push on even further, thank you so much.

Well coffee over best get the legs pumping again, turn on the power, everything engaged we are rocking, little chat as we get the legs in order, nothing for another 30 miles or so Bingo chirps up, yep maybe we will see something, always look on the Bright Side of Life, well that kept me giggling and riding for a while, soon done at least 20 of the miles and rocking, with me whistling out of tune of course the “Bright side of Life” Just rolling, very favourable tail wind, helping the matter. Soon spotted a little shack, selling tequila infusion with soft fruits, I am in there like a flash! just have a soft drink, watching the world go by, by head is in turmoil, should I try a pineapple tequila, I really want to, but at least another 20 miles to go and its only 11:30, so common sense prevailed for once, so pleased I am finally growing up or not.

We leave the lovely tequila lady without a sale, I did apologise and pointed at the bikes, sure she understood my dilemma, hit the road again for all of 5 miles, then stopped for a bit of lunch, beans and scrabbled egg, lovely, still no beer way to early, settled for a coffee and booked some digs about 15 miles away, out of the town Victoria, ready for an easy ride out of the town in the morning. So a good tail wind we done the 15 miles in less than an hour, all booked in sweetly, great ride today 87 miles and still finished early, take the good times and ride the bad ones harder.

Washed my muddy clothes from last nights little slip, with the cycling kit, will have to wait for that to dry, before I venture out, nothing else to wear! let bygones be bygones that’s what I say, then a relaxing afternoon, wearing a towel and a smile.

Guy moved in next door with a massive Jeep from Colorado, ex military guy (Dan) moving down to Chetumal, on the Mexico – Belize border, nice guy had loads of stuff in his jeep, think he will be gone a long long time, maybe a song there somewhere.

Need to eat and find a bank, both easier said than done sometimes, especially when you when your legs say mate, give it a rest will you and your waiting for your only clothes to dry.

Day 178 Friday 11th July 2025 Ciudad Victoria to Villgran

My little legs are a bit tired, so get an Uber down to an ATM, sort the money out, then an Uber straight back, that’s the cash sorted, now a meal, next door to the hostel, all good, not sure what we ordered, loads of plates kept coming, they were not wasted, good meal felt great to eat loads. Only a little walk back to the digs all full up, and a few beers nice feeling, will not take much rocking for me tonight, was asleep before my head hit the pillow.

Least it’s not raining when we get up, still pretty dark mind you, maybe have to put the alarm back 15mins, as we are like two caged lions, wanting to get on the road, pacing up and down the little room, lets go.

Bingo had a little shortcut in mind, so followed him diligently , saved us at least 1/2 mile, but every bit counts, heading to a small town / village today, Villagrain, only one hostel, lets hope its still open! Soon back on the route, going out into the wilderness a bit today, all a bit vague on google maps, so a bit uncertain if we have any decent places to stop, filled up with water and chocolate so let’s go.

Same as yesterday, not much wildlife about, maybe too much pesticide not sure, but good riding conditions, getting in the early miles while it’s not so hot, riding good and hard, miles are whistling by. Stop for a coffee and a soft drink at the normal “Oxxon” shop always adjacent to the service stations, probably their best customers now, couple of little urchins loitering outside the shop, so placed the bikes by the window so we can keep an eye on them, the little blighters kept looking but could see we were always there. Not the most relaxing of stops, but least the bikes were OK, cheeky buggers asked for a tip for looking after the bikes, guess what, they did not get one.

On we trek, wildlife a bit sparse to say the least, just us against the road, no contest today, we won hands down, churning out the miles, like they are for fun, only got a little 67 mile ride today, if we are not careful, we will be finished before we start, maybe I am still asleep and just dreaming this, so feels like it sometimes. Always a silver lining, be nice to finish early and get some proper washing done, think my sister Deb, will not let us within 100yrds of her place at the moment. Just as we were entering the village, I have decided it is a village Villagrain, even says it in the name. Another Oxxon pops up, stop for a little light refreshment, right in the middle of an audit of some sort, loads of people around, as we quietly had a cold one, just as we was about to leave, got a text from Sandra, she is at the hospital visiting Steve, another brilliant video call, he is getting better everyday, really good chat and so refreshing to hear him ask all the right questions and be alert when he knows I am taking the micky, can’t swear as my Mum reads this. It is so great the family have all pulled together visiting Steve and caring for my Mum. We are stretching every muscle and sinew to get home ASAP, to help out, but once again a massive thank you from Bingo & Gringo, both apt names now, look like we have gone native. Even a policeman today questioned us, English hey you don’t look like it with a big Mexican grin, well I thought it was a grin under his massive moustache, featuring his last three meals at least, cheerful guy though.

After the lovely video call, we ambled at least 1/2 mile down the road, found the hostel, no one around, nice guy tending the garden called the owner, she turned up straight away, all booked in, few extra beers from the little shop over the road, sorted, no WIFI, not too bad, leads to a relaxing afternoon.

That relaxing we decide to have a picnic for tea, little walk down to the supermarket, well shop, got the rolls, onions, tomatoes, cheese mate we are having a feast, Bingo concentrating on the serious things, me putting loads of chocolate in the basket, all good in the end, only came to seven shillings and sixpence good at half the price, what the heck does that mean! I was still tasked with going to the other shop to get a top up on the beers, nice picnic though.

Day 179 Saturday 12th July 2025 Villgran to Santiago

After last nights picnic, both feeling on top of the world, ready to ride the world, well that’s what we are doing, as we eat the cornflakes, banana and yogurt, lets rock. Still eerily dark the sun just breaking through, the roads quiet let’s hit the road baby.

Where we heading is north to the border, not sure which town or city yet, the breakfast has not kicked in yet, hope it does soon, or we maybe riding around in circles, be careful what you wish for. Easy first 30 odd miles, stop just north of Linares, all woke up now, check on the English patient, doing very well, lazing around the hospital, watching and listening to the cricket, tennis and rugby, think he is have the life of O’Riley, that’s another bit of work for him who was O’Riley sounds like he had a good time, so well done him. Met a great Mexician guy Duncan, does not sound very Mexician, in the Oxxon shop really interested in the trip, big photo shoot outside the place, he even had an old 35mm film camera, Steve would love that, great pictures and a massive viajes seguros (safe travels), 10 minutes later they gave us a massive wave as they drove by.

Back on the road, heading for Allende, small town with a few hotels / hostels nothing booked, let’s just see what occurs, eating up the miles, after a good stop, nice roads, bit short on wildlife, but a lot greener that we where expecting. As we pushed on very fast, with a nice tail wind, makes all the difference, Allende was coming into view and still relatively early. We stopped just outside the small town at a little fly infested shop, managed to get two beers inside us before the flies won the battle, the little blighters, off we go in search of a hostel.

Well if we did, two hours later still riding around in circles through this little town, every hotel on google was either not there or not a hotel anymore, no luck finding any place to stay and its getting hot now, very hot. Nothing for it crack on to the next town 20 odd miles away, see what happens there. Tough little 20 mile section, first hotel, still not an hotel, maybe a theme here, had a beer on the side of the road and discussed our options, looks like a few places along the road, we will try them all.

Finally sorted in an oldy Worldy place in Santiago on the banks of a big Reservoir “Presso Rodrigo Gomez” nice place, but both absolutely knackered big 90 odd miles in soaring temperatures took it out of us.

That’s not the end of it, nice shower wash the kit, check the maps, gone a bit wrong, need to redo the tomorrow, ends up, with another long day tomorrow, but safe, so hey ho, worry about tomorrow, later.

Nice meal and early night, so we thought, but a Mexican family in the pool as we got home so joined them for a chat and a little swim, did not get to bed till 10:00, way past my bedtime, can wear the jeans but can’t stay up late no more, that’s me!

Week 26 Mexico 1

Day 166 Sunday 29th June 2025 Mapastepec to Tonala

Well all good, managed to survive the night without crapping myself, that would have been fun, as we shared a double bed last night, I can assure you, Bingo was way over the other side. Still felt a bit dodgy, tried to eat some breakfast, that didn’t go down well at all, so left it all, Bingo was dismayed he had spent so much time preparing it all, while I was doing the normal drama queen routine. Made sure I had all the stuff handy for an emergency evacuation, then we are off, just after 5:30 in the morning.

Always the same got a tough day today 75 miles, not much climbing but going to be a tough one, first thing I need to drink plenty of water, do not want to dehydrate, gulping it down like it going out of fashion, really not my thing drinking while riding, but really concerned I may dehydrate, because I have not eaten anything for a day. Just keep a steady pace, quite difficult in the morning when you are feeling crap and know you have miles to do, blank all that negative stuff and accentuate the positives. While i was walling in my self pity I forgot to mention that Steve had another good night, they have removed his ventilator tube and he is communicating a little, still a long way to go, but hopefully on the road to recovery.

We are heading towards Tonalá, like I said earlier miles away, but getting my head around it, been doing this for a while now, so getting the hang of it, keep drinking and steady away, that’s the story morning glory, that will help kill a few Oasis tracks while I feel sorry for my little self, before I know it singing my head off on an empty road, with only one care in the world, that’s not to poo myself, when I relax, sorry Mum. Keep drinking the water tastes foul but I need it, noticed that there does not seem to be many places to stop, lovely scenery all green, but no shops or service stations, pull up to Bingo let him know I have already finished one bottle of water so need another soon. Find a little place Los Mangos, filled up my water bottles and have a coffee, feel I bit better, I think, quite pleased done about 23 miles, only 50ish to go, what can go wrong. Good thing is the water tastes nice for the first 5 or so miles soon gets warm, getting into the feel of it now just going to be one of the days, stay strong and dig deep, every miles helps.

Think I was in a day dream most of the morning, one minute was having a coffee the next I am another 20 miles down the road, always going to be the same, when your feeling a bit under the weather, the sun breaks through the clouds, pushing the temperature up in to the high 30’s. Stop again on the 42 mile mark, service station, or the local bar, we could not make it out, but some young lads definitely enjoying a beer at 10:00 in the morning, we settled for a coffee and ice cream, well pleased kept that down, going to be all right I think. Pushed on only 35miles to go today, trying to calculate how many songs is that, come to the conclusion far to many, have to reconsider that strategy. So went into my semi hibernation mode just pedal and try to keep upright, pretty easy here cause every 25 miles or so we have to go through a police check, show your passport and visa documents. The lady today, I use that term lightly, she even scared Bingo, when she yelled “Passport” woke me up as well, she was definitely not on a Tinder scoping patrol, with a face like a pickled onion she did nothing for the Mexican tourist board. Oh well I am back in the land of the living, just so have to thank her for that, running out of water again, so need to stop and fill up.

Only one little climb today, so we got that baby out of the way, then pulled in a little cafe / shack, no coffee so had a soft drink see how that goes, all good so try two Modelo beers, make or break time I thought, only 12 miles to go, felt good, no untoward bodily actions so well pleased, just glided into the Tonalá, nothing booked but knew there was a hostel right on the main road, all booked in.

Need to rest, then try and eat, nice shower, wash the cycling gear, then venture out for a bite to eat, no refried beans for me tonight, though I love them don’t think they agree with me at the moment. So back to the egg and chips for me, always good, Bingo had the rice and shrimp things, then to the supermarket. Mate that was a walk after doing 75 miles, all I need was to troop around a supermarket, glad I did though, decided to get some nice rolls, cheese, tomato’s and onions, going to have a picnic in the hostel tonight, nice basic food that’s what I need, then cheekily flagged down a taxi, I am knackered.

One tough day today, but think I am over the little stomach upset, so all good.

Day 167 Monday 30th June 2025 Tonala to Santo Dominigo Zanatepec

Really good nights sleep last night, ready to take on the world, now can’t even finish my breakfast but I ate more than yesterday so must be a bit better, same strategy today is to drink loads, then drink some more, relatively easy day planned, if only we planned more often! I do think the planning malarkey is overrated, best just ride and see what happens, what can go wrong.

So with my body feeling 100% better than yesterday, we are off on another avid adventure, first thing though we need to find an ATM, running low on cash, no worries we have Shackleton aka Bingo with us the ace navigator, through the twisty turny streets of downtown Tonalá, yep we founds a bank but no ATM, see Shackleton did not have these sorts of tests, lets keep going, till the next town, I can sing for some money if we are desperate I said, Bingo gave me one of the looks, don’t be so silly – enough said.

Next town only about 15 mile away Arriaga, we can go through the town, instead of going around the outskirts, soon hit the dusty little town of Arriaga, with one bank, Shackleton sets his compass and off we go, through the market area, then down by the new railway line, Steve the editor will update us on this later [the line connecting Mexico with Guatemala was reconstructed in standard guage in 2019, with 300 new bridges], he is an avid trainspotter, the numbers not the drugs I may add. Then up this one way road, Bingo aka Shackleton stops and says it should be here, nothing looks like a bank! go back the way we came, then eagled eyed private Gringo spots the bank, that looks like a bank, sure enough we got the cash, let’s get going.

All good now we have to get out of the town back on to the highway, with superb navigational skills, soon back on the highway without backtracking a single bit, good stuff. Scenery is gradually changing, going from the lush green forests to open grassland with a few shrubs and trees, loads of little lizards darting about the edge of the road, and one massive bit of flexible pipe, that I thought was a snake, had a girly scream as I nearly run it over, another one of my day dreaming excursions, fair play Bingo was just behind even he thought it looked like a snake. Few notable bird spots:

Laughing Falcon (Herpetotheres cachinnans)

Black-bellied Whistling-Duck (Dendrocygna autumnalis

Love the anglicised names, reckon the English translator guy had a good sense of humour, fair play to whomever it was. Taking it easy riding with the wind, most of the time, road not to busy, but not much of a hard shoulder, must say the drivers have been brilliant, love the little hoots and a wave out of the window, then a massive blow of the air horn when the Mack and Kenworth trucks go rolling by, least you know they have seen you!

We keep going, riding easy, then stop just outside San Pedro, have to stop here one of Snowdown CWRFC all time hero’s “Pedro” the Mexican scrum half Pete Stow RIP, great player and supporter, shame we did not have a beer, but still very early and we are athletes, when it suits us. Push on after that lovely bit of nostalgia, brings back loads of great memories donning the sacred red and blue, but that does not get you through the dusty roads of Mexico, so have to pedal a bit. Around 10 miles from Santo Domingo Zanatepec, are planned stop for the day, the road was being repaired, ended up with a four mile bit of “ripo” (unmade road), not had that in a long time, made the joints ache a little, and lungs filled with dusty air, all in the life of a touring cyclist.

Soon hit the little town, not a lot going on, but got booked into a rather grand looking hotel, sure it was back in the day, but will do us, great guy on the desk, did not have a clue, but was very pleasant, all booked, then over the road to eat, or as the case maybe, back over this side of the road to eat, very hospitable, welcomed us in with open arms, just a little bite to eat a few beers to round the afternoon off.

Day 168 Tuesday 1st July 2025 Santo Dominigo Zanatepec to Matlas Romero

Went to a lovely restaurant next door again last night, unfortunately they were closed, though she did have our change waiting for us, so here we go further down into Santo Domingo Zanatepec, what does that mean Saint Dominic of shoes I thought, but shoes are zapatos, that was close enough for my hyperactive brain, who needs an editor, Think I do. So I ended up with fish head soup, how did that happen, I ‘ll tell you why, the guy doing the translation seemed so helpful, stitched me up, only wanted egg and chips!, I needed to eat, nothing can go wrong.

Great news in the morning, it’s not all about me, but my stomach was fine so, Steve is recovering well, bit of a restless night, but looks like he will be transferred back down to William Harvey this afternoon, very good news indeed. breakfast all sorted out of the door, by five and twenty to six, love that, that’s how my Mum says the time, it was to teach the thick ones in the family, namely Bingo and I how to add up, I ended up never asking the time, its only an abstract principle anyway, preferred my Dads way if it’s light you need to be up and working.

So heading out of St Dominic shoes, still up the coast for about 35 miles or so then head North / East towards the Caribbean coast or more accurately Matías Romero, now all I can think off is the cheap Portuguese wine Mateus Rose, thats what happens when you have an overactive dyslexic mind, its fine, just get used to mixing up words, actually comes in handy when trying to talk in another language, can’t even understand my first tongue.

Well that sorted the first 25 miles or so out, not even a song on the lips, just me giggling at my own little mispronunciations, never met her but wonder what her first name is, there we go again. best get on with this riding thing, heading up the coast, the wind turbines ominously turned into the wind, which will be against us when we go inland, get that thought away from my mind, it will be fine, it’s really good to see a vast array of wind turbines nestled along the coast, must have been over 500 plus of them great stuff, will not get into the plastic waste stuff, will leave that for the final overview, but really not good in Mexico so far. I have a few wild and wonderful ideas to send to the major plastic waste contributors just from our little tour, they will also be acknowledged in the credits, for major contributions to spoiling this lovely planet, watch this space.

Still not getting into the riding today, well I am doing fine, it’s just my brain in overdrive, might even be the fish soup who knows, not sure I can keep up with it though. We stop just before we turn East at a little service station just outside La Venta, nice coffee and soft drink, then do the hattrick and have an ice cream, living the dream, have a chat about the next stage, nothing major, couple of little climbs, but the wind could be a major factor, well just ride see what happens.

All good, yes the wind is in are face a bit, but not too much problem if anything it is keeping us cool, well cool just not so hot, lovely road now as the we start to see the famous cactus plants again, sure we will see enough of them, but as we steadily climb up, heading East now the landscape changes, Bingo says back into snake country, more like lizard at the moment, loads of the little and sometimes not so little things darting about. Nice climb though steady away is always good, when the engineer tells the power plant only a 3 mile climb just relax, when I tell them it is 25 mile plus they have a hissy fit.

Few nice little spots today on the bird front namely:

Not sure how the color blind bingo knew it was green, it was not white, I will give him that.

First climb out of the way, few pictures then little decline then up for the second climb, same nothing to worry about, but need to feed the power plant so stop at a little shack for a cold drink, all fuelled up off we go, same as steady away gears just rocking, bikes gliding up the little hill, feels good, soon hit the top, then a so called little 8 mile descent into Matías Romero, not the cheap wine.

We stop about 4 mile outside at a little service station, with the idea of getting some WIFI and booking a place, no WIFI, but a fridge full of beer, seems a shame to let that go to waste, on the 2nd can, when the boss turned up, sorry you are not allowed to drink on the premises, the girl behind the till had already told Bingo, we both profusely apologised, with a smile finished the drink and left, hope we did not get the girl into trouble.

Just a couple of miles into Matías Romero, booked into a slightly dodgy hostel, but not a lot to choose from, beggars can’t be choosers, at least its a bit clean. Nice cold shower, wash the kit, then escape to the excellent restaurant next door, lunch and a rest is in order. No WIFI in the hostel, so back down into the restaurant a few cheeky beers and write the blog.

Day 169 Wednesday 2nd July 2025 Matlas Romero to Sayula de Aleman

Did not move far last night, Bingo ventured out to the ATM, while I wrote the blog in the restaurant, good WIFI and a plentiful supply of beer, I am in my element, nice afternoon relaxing, maybe we will need it.

Catch up on the English patient back home, great news he has been transferred back to William Harvey, in Ashford, so much easier for the family to visit him, seems to be on the mend, fingers crossed, once again brilliant family support, so good to know that they all pulling together love it. Breakfast sorted bikes packed let’s roll, we have 80 miles to do today, Bingo informs me, I know but it is actually 79.9 miles, so let’s not get lost, was my reply. It is actually getting a bit darker in the mornings now, straight away in my positive mindset, cause we are going North, getting closer, not allowed to say it yet, but it certainly does feel like it.

So off we toddle, just need to get the legs rolling, heading North East towards the sunny Caribbean sea, nice little song there, place called Sayula de Alemán, at the moment miles away, get these legs pumping, feel a bit better more energy, still drinking water like its going out of fashion, but feel so much better now, lets see how it rocks. No climbs today, just rolling countryside, seems to me at the moment more uphill than down, unlike me to be pessimistic but that’s what the engine room is saying, you have to believe in an engineer. Going good in the early morning, roads are a bit dodgy with potholes and patches everywhere but light traffic will settle for that, town on the horizon, Palomares, both feeling good so go around the outside of it, the roads are usually better. Skipping through the early morning, We stopped a few miles outside of Palomares, at a little shack Nuevo Ubero with no coffee, but soft drinks and water, checked the maps, good start over 34 miles done already, we are rocking.

Off we go again, getting hot now and only 9ish, sun glasses on and ride, same again as it will be all day rolling roads, sometimes nice tarmac, others not so good, but traffic still very light, we both will settle for that. Knowing its going to be a long day, just push forward, not a lot said, maybe the odd bird, or horse stuck in a pond, that we have a chuckle about, trying to get as many miles in before it becomes really hot. At the moment it’s only hot, it definitely feels better when you are riding, with the breeze against your face. few dead snakes and loads of lizards also the dreaded dogs seem to be back in avengeance popping out all over the place, barking and snapping at my dear little legs, I love my legs please don’t bite them, more like FXXX off dogs, if they carry on like this may have to carry a few stones to throw at them, once today I had one on either side of me and a truck passing at the same time very scary, always seems to happen going up a hill, think the little blighters know we can’t go so fast then.

Dogs aside enjoying the ride, making some good miles, stop for a well earned coffee and soft drink at Campo Nuevo 64 miles in and it’s only 11:30, still a while to go yet, but enjoy the rest, even have an ice cream, mainly because I wanted to prolong the rest. Soon we go again only around 15 miles to go, push on keep rolling, Bingo mentions that its 42 degrees, thats why it is better to ride, feels a bit cooler, going to be like this for a while mate, best get a move on, easier said than done, but we do.

Soon hit the dusty streets of the conurbation of Sayula de Alemán, well the one big street and a plaza just off it, found a hostel at the right end of town for tomorrow, but not good for the food places, no worries shower and wash, then stroll into town for some food, no need for goggle maps, I can see the big church, always a pub and restaurant by a church, sure enough there was. Big pizza and some beers then an early night, another 80 odd miles tomorrow, need to be fit and ready.

Good night.

Day 170 Thursday 3rd July 2025 Sayula de Aleman to Cosamaloapan

All full up from the pizza supermercado, then a taxi back to the digs, these little legs are not made for walking, change the legs for boots, hear we go again, too tired, just have a beer back at the room , then bed.

Another day here we go all fuelled up with breakfast and a KitKat that I threw into the shopping basket last night, edging out of the digs in the hazy morning mist, just getting light, as all the trucks start firing up their engines. Mate my engine is fuelled and ready to rock, well nearly have to listen to some final instructions from Bingo first, just down here, then turn onto the motorway and pedal, they may not let us on here, OK mate, have my wave ready and pedal.

Well we join the motorway with no trouble, only the surface of the roads is awful, me in my infinite wisdom, had visions of smooth tarmacked surfaces as I glide over it, nothing of the sort, like riding on the rippo, with trucks roaring past you, not good. Both trying to keep a line, dodging in and out of the potholes, tough riding, it does not ease up, but we keep going. Bingo stops and rescues a tortoise, at first he thought is was dead, so picked it up with the thought of hanging it off his bike, weird, lucky for the tortoise though as it moved inside its shell, with that Bingo gently laid it back down off the busy road, lovely everyone happy and I hope the tortoise goes onto to win the race, we never seen the hare, hopefully he arrives fit and well in second place. Well that was one of the most exciting things that happened today, even the service station we were at was the first stop in and had a power cut so no coffee, just a soft drink.

Off we go again, trying to put some inspirational words together, but some times you just need to dig deep, then dig again, afraid it was one of theses days, just pedal, trying to look at the surrounding farm land full of pineapple fields, which is good, all the lads and lasses selling them are on the other side of the busy road, made my mind up I am having one! sometime.

This road is never ending nightmare, both made the decision, not going on this again, eventually the light at the end of road appeared sign for Cosamaloapan, really glad I don’t live there, never be able to spell that. Only 12 or so miles to go, keep going in the midday sun, only mad dogs and English touring cyclists venture out in this, Bingo signals he has a flat, ride to a bridge that will give us a bit of shade, wow guy selling frozen pineapple drinks, Bingo sweating and working hard changing his inner tube, me no help whatsoever, enjoying the delights of frozen pineapple juice, best puncture yet! Fair play we have a minute well need needed I might add, Bingo even had a bit of the pineapple juice so all good. Just a little 3 miles to the turning to Cosamaloapan soon done that, pulled over to a rest area, to check the options for places to stay, booked into a little place, only 3 miles away, lets have it.

Lovely place, the comments said the receptionist, is not very nice, we will be the judge of that, what a charming lady, all booked in, with ease, then gave me directions to the supermercado, with a smile, always about how you treat people yourself, two sweaty old blokes, with a smile and a swagger, who could resist that, think thats why she got us booked in quick!

Another good tough ride.

Day 171 Friday 4th July 2025 Cosamaloapan to Veracruz City

The only thing of real importance that happened today was my Mum and Dads wedding in 1953, according to my sums, that’s 72 years ago, woo! just paraphrased a famous quote so be it, think the guy said “Nothing of importance happened today.” Something about Independence day, hey ho he was probably right. All that load of stuff I hope my Mum has a lovely day today.

Pasta meal last night, Bingo went for the double meal, I settled for a single meal and double beers, seems to suit my constitution, still home my 20:00, late night for us, living the dream. Still the alarm goes off at 05:00, both up like a bat out of hell, think that is a song! Some Canadian bloke will give him a thumbs up! Breakfast sorted, bikes ready to roll, so off we go.

Complete change of tact today, going through the countryside see how that goes, like always nothing can go wrong, just that some things are a tadge better than others, so off we go down the little country lanes. Through the peat bog land, with loads of cattle, roaming around, feels good, then the first cattle grid, mate they are dangerous, seriously, note to self concentrate. Well in the first 20 miles if I had a pound for every cattle grid we went over, think i would have had £75 at least, they are awful, some so rusted you had to get off your bike, but the good thing, no traffic, just guys on horseback giving us weird looks, like what are you doing here. I was actually asking the same question, as we navigated through more farm/swamp land, lovely views though, on and on this went, we finally stopped at a quaint little farm shop, overlooking a baseball triangle, looked good. the lovely family had a couple of soft drinks and watched the world go by, I just said mate , we could be in Hougham here, quick as flash Bingo said Staple look at that pig, just wallowing in its own thing, excellent, we had another soft drink.

Best get riding, only another 10 miles, then we should be on a main road, OK just ride as best we can, in an out the dusty bluebells, where did that come from, once again this crazy head, keeps me riding, fair play the road does get slightly better, as we push on to where ever at the moment. Finally hit the main road, with a bit of relief. Getting a few quick miles in, road still not great but a lot better, quickly put 20 miles in the bag with ease, we are rocking, try a service station no good, mile or so down the road a little cafe have another soft drink, nearly thinking about a beer, but athletes we are, so decline, or the truth be told, they did not sell any.

Right 20 or miles to go lets rock, drifting down the hard shoulder making good progress, come to a little junction, we pull over check the maps, Bingo all good got a hostel here 10 mile away, he books it, then with a sly grin says just follow me. OK captain Pugwash here we go, straight back on the main road for a mile, then off piste for 9 miles, through dykes, flooded byways, just the worst rippo we have had and all self inflicted, tough riding in the middle of the day, it took an age to cover the miles, feet sogging wet has we went through the muddy flooded byway, which seemed never ending.

Finally entered the City Valente Díaz, through the maze of back streets and unmade roads, trying to call a beer stop, Bingo has its his route needs to keep going, I find a little burst of energy Modelo infused, pull in front, then stop nearly straight away, I am thirsty, nice little bar, with a few cold beers in the fridge, just half a mile from the hostel, good planning.

All days are pretty tough, just the looking at the maps in the morning give me goose pimples, but fair play one tough ride today. All booked in bags in the room, bikes around the side, ask the lovely lady for the use of the hosepipe, all done, wash the bikes down, they needed it.

Then relax, nice shower, check for leeches they will do well to latch onto me, bet they had a go and said sod that, he smells worst than me! Few cold ones then ready to eat and eat.

Day 172 Saturday 5th July 2025 Veracruz City to Vega de Alatorre

Massive Chinese meal last night, we both wanted as many noodles as possible and they delivered with more if we wanted it! Great meal and good to be able to eat some good stuff, me at the counter picking out the broccoli, aubergines, mushrooms in my element, the locals thinking I am mad, no worries Bingo made up for me in the meat department.

All good back at the digs, ready for bed at 20:30, another big day tomorrow, they are all big days.

Here we go again lets rock, catch up with the family back home Steve still making progress, that’s good news, bit of bike stuff to do before we leave lubricate the bikes after yesterdays deep wash, all done in no time on the road to nowhere, that is a song? With a wave and smile we say goodbye to the staff, they have treated us so good

That’s a point really not sure where we are going, North but other than that not a clue, just follow the garmin thing, then make a mental note to look at the first break, get onto the highway. Nice hard shoulder and very little traffic, makes for a good start to the day, just ride north hard and fast, that’s the message sent down to the engine room, they respond with full steam ahead, both feeling good on a nice road, lets ride. We smash the first 30 miles, riding like the wind, well with the wind behind us, feels good, make hay while it lasts, lovely 30 odd miles done in a breeze excuse the pun, stop for a well earned coffee and soft drink at San Isidro. Look at the options we have, stay on this road up the coast or join the highway, both agree it makes sense to stay on the road we are on, all good.

Off we go again, the next 5 miles are pretty busy, but the drivers are really respectful, then all the trucks turn off onto the highway, brilliant leave us alone on the twisted beach road, just what we want. Great afternoons riding, through the tree lined road, with beautiful views of the Gulf of Mexico, it will always be called that, no matter what the self opinionated guy may say, never going to happen, same as always just a load of old rhetoric, to disguise the truth.

Well that’s all good got that of my chest, while ambling through another 15 miles, we are nearly there, stop at a little grocery store, only a few miles to go so have a beer in the shade at Ropa interior y novedades, we sit out the front of the shop on a couple of old beer crates, like two old Gypsy guys, not a bad description I might add, watching the world go by, interacting with all the locals, like we have been here for years. Come on lets move on, before we become locals, they are already calling the little roads “Jitties” down in Mexico way, that shows how long we have been here.

Just a simple 5 mile ride down to Vega de Alatorre, easy riding, glide into town, nothing booked but have a place in mind, straight in there, me speaking Spanish like its my native tongue, well can ask for a room and a few beers how good is that. Room all sorted and the beers, little siesta on the cards, before we sort out the next few days rides, will be a busy afternoon.

Week 25 El Salvador and Guatemala and Mexico

Day 159 Sunday 22nd June 2025 San Miguel to Cojutepeque

All the last couple of days ordeals are now behind us, Bingo’s drone is no more, the failed attempt at entering Honduras now a distant memory, as we stir in the beds ready for a tough first days riding in El Salvador. Before breakfast both checked the messages coming in from home, hoping for some positive news after Steve’s cycling accident, not the best of news, but least he is stable and in the right place, sounds a bit of a cliche, yes you are right, finding it quite difficult to be upbeat, when you know your brother needs your help at home, thankfully the family has pulled together like families do and giving Steve the support he needs, from the bottom of our hearts Bingo and Gringo are so grateful.

Breakfast in the nice little room overlooking the pool that we never got a chance to enjoy, did look nice, as we sneaked out of the room in the early hours of the morning. On the road by 5:30 through the empty streets of St Miguel, sure that’s a beer, get that out of my mind at this unearthly hour. Quite a tough day today, need to get the climbing legs back in play, no bother, my thighs are like oak trees at the moment, bursting through these new shorts with boundless energy, pumping up the hills with consummate ease, though these are hills not the Andes at 4000m plus, that’s a different kettle of fish.

Good to get the legs working, needed the 1st stop at Nueva Guadalupe, lovely coffee and soft drink, first little climb out of the way, get these puppies pumping, we have a little 10 mile climb coming up, nothing serious just up and up, nice scenery so just pedal, every time I start to sing think of my brother in hospital, so not many songs coming out today, think the juke box has been rocked too much, we will see, I am sure my inner self will come out with some wonderful tunes later, just have to climb this little hill.

Always works start thinking about Steve and how he influenced his younger brothers in their music tastes, my mind is rolling, the steel mills rolling, he was at Sheffield Polytechnic years ago, think the name may have changed now, but got a Clash song banging in my head with only two miles of the climb to do, mate I am rocking, having a giggle as my two kids used to sing “Go straight to Del Boys” driving down to the South of France many moons ago, least it cheered me up and smashed the little climb.

“If you can play on fiddle
How’s about a British jig and reel?
Speaking King’s English in quotation
As railhead towns feel the steel mills rust
Water froze
In the generation
Clear as winter ice
This is your paradise

There ain’t no need for ya
There ain’t no need for ya
Go straight to hell, boys
Go straight to hell, boys

Can you cough it up, loud and strong?
The immigrants, they wanna sing all night long
It could be anywhere, most likely could be any frontier
Any hemisphere
No man’s land
There ain’t no asylum here
King Solomon, he never lived ’round here”

Back onto the riding after that little interlude, we are flying in between the little steep bits at least, stop for a bite to eat at Comedor La Virgen, a little kids animal farm, me straight away think of George Orwell, that would have been good, talking to the intelligent pigs, but sadly no just donkeys, though I do like their little sad faces. Just a quick stop, plate of chips and rice and a cold beer, would have had another one but a bus load just turned up so hey ho, have to pedal faster to get another one. Bingo also sorted out a place to stay, while I was moaning about not being able to get another beer, surely not!

So only 18 miles to go, off we go fueled by a plate of rice and a beer, all good keep a steady pace as the road is not brilliant, no hard shoulder, loads of potholes, so you need to concentrate, just keep the line and pedal. Finding the road is very technical, as we need to avoid the potholes without going out into the traffic, basically grabbing hold of the handle bars tightly and getting the best line you can.

Finally made it to the paradise of Finca La Paz, lovely place that Bingo had booked, wish we could have stayed longer, brilliant place that re-homes wild animals and birds, also produces its own coffee, trouble was we were both shattered, but got shown to the barn, also a coffee store, smelt lovely. The staff were wonderful, sorted out some WIFI for us, brought a fan into the room, so good. Had a lovely meal in the early evening twilight looking over their estate, what a wonderful place, the girl said they released young Toucans yesterday that had been rescued by the locals, so good. We love this place, so decided to stay for breakfast the next day, forgo the early morning cereal routine and have a civilised breakfast at 07:00. Great day.

Day 160 Monday 23rd June 2025 Cojutepeque to Sonsonate

Wonderful nights sleep in the barn / come coffee store in Finca La Paz, still up way before breakfast time, as is the normal check the progress of Steve, not a lot has changed, very concerned but very hopeful, getting all the feedback we need from the crew back home, so good.

Stroll down to the breakfast area in the great place, birds singing and the sun shining still 1/2 hour early for breakfast, but try and blag it a bit, get a coffee, that’s a start, then scrambled egg, rice (you get that with everything) and some black bean stuff that is lovely, another coffee, few pictures then we are off, around 07:30.

Very busy road, as it is going to the capital of San Salvador, we will not go through it I hopefully going around the outside after around 16 miles or so, so just have to put your head down pedal and concentrate, big lorries thundering past you and worse are the little buses, that just stop straight in front of you and pull out with no thought of who is behind them. Though we are getting used to the yellow perils, it’s a bit of a love / hate relationship really. When we started this morning, we said we would get out of the San Salvador traffic before we have the first stop, wise move, for the first couple of hours it was just head down and pedal.

Was nice to turn away from the city, the road got a lot better, even had a blue cycle lane luxury, stopped for a posh coffee and a soft drink in some service station, nice and cool and very good coffee, what a holiday, still nothing booked for staying, keeping the options open, as we had a later start than normal. Fueled with the extra strong coffee we go, both feeling strong and fit, so go for it on the relatively flat road, looking over the green pastures, riding hard and strong, legs pumping sucking in all the hot humid air we can. Me being me start to daydream a bit, thinking of my brother laying in an hospital bed thousands of miles away, all sorts of weird things going through my little head, the one massive factor that keeps re-occurring, is he would want us to carry on, I know that, so does Bingo, but still pretty difficult to get your head around it. We push on at an incredible pace, just trying to block things out. I think it seems to work, more concerned about my aching legs now as we keep going, have a little chat on the road, keep going until we complete the last little climb, then look for a little stop.

Full steam ahead, once again in a dream world, think i may have been an Aboriginal in a past life living the dream world, sets my little mind off again, thinking about the wonderful carefree days Sandra and I had travelling around Australia and new Zealand in the 80’s, as we pedal through the El Salvador forests. Mate I was dreaming, twisted my head around to talk to Bingo, everyone who rides with me knows I never do that, my saying is “Don’t look back, your got going that way” lovely quote Mary Engelbreit. Well Bingo was nowhere to be seen, slowed up, just taking it easy, sure enough a motorbike came past, pulled over and told me that Bingo had a problem with his back wheel, but is now riding, top man. I pull over at a coconut stall or is it a shy? who knows, anyway thought I would try and get a new Mum for Linney, get a coconut but nothing else going mate, she said try the next stall. Bingo came and rode straight past, saying I can’t stop, thinking he knew I had a date lined up, soon caught him up, he has a problem with his rear wheel, not worries only 8 miles to go.

Bingo managed to nurse the bike in the last 8 miles, I had sorted out a hostel, right in the worst part of town, typical me, but hey ho lets get there, as we were coming into Sonsonate, we went right past a bike shop, stopped and asked the guy, he only sells bikes does not repair them, but gave us a few shops to try. Only half a mile from the hostel so decided to go there, then sort a bike shop out. All the dreaming does work, just the other side of the hostel was a bike shop, while I got booked in and got a beer , Bingo organised his back wheel repair, only had a sip when he came bouncing back in where’s mine, soon got that sorted.

All booked in spent the time catching up with family business well Steve, not great news as they are going to transfer him up to St Thomas’ hospital London, felt a bit down, then had a lovely facetime chat with Deb, must admit felt a bit better after that, but still very concerned. Bingo’s back wheel all sorted, great news.

Bite to eat and restless nights sleep, not great when things are on your mind, be positive I keep saying to myself.

Day 161 Tuesday 24th June 2025 Sonsonate to El Astillero

Not the best of meals last night, both tired so had a takeaway subway thing and Bingo had similar, not great but at least it filled us up, then made our way back to the hostel, we had arranged a Whatsapp chat with Deb, must say we did feel better after the chat. The family back home are doing a sterling job, it’s just so difficult when you are miles away and feel so helpless.

Not a great night’s sleep for me, tossing and turning thinking about how Steve is getting on, keep trying to say to myself, he is in the best place, try and relax, easier said than done.

Positive news in the morning, Steve has arrived at St Thomas’ and is responding to the treatment, great news. Forced some breakfast down, that is unlike me, but did manage to eat it all.. Look on the bright side of life, only 40 miles to do today with a little border crossing San Salvador to Guatemala, nothing can go wrong.

On the road at 5:45, it took a bit of time catching up on family business, nothing to do with being lazy honestly. Straight on the pace Guatemala here we come, easy riding, eating up the miles at a cracking pace before we know we have covered over 30 miles, still only 08:00. Stop for a coffee and soft drink at Cara Sucia, check the messages all good, so push on, only 15 miles or so to the border. Still easy riding, but does seem eerily quiet, not like most roads to borders, no worries crack on. Then came to the town El Gulsnay normal border town chaos but still 5 miles from the border, got out of there as quick as we could, then the border.

Always bit nervous, never know what to expect, thankfully this time as smooth as silk, flew through the San Salvador part, then on to the Guatemala side, best immigrations lady so far, only took 5 minutes to do both of us, if it wasn’t for the security, sure Bingo was going to ask for a date, maybe next time. So what we going to do now then, have a soft drink, it’s only 10, sort out some options, let’s push on a bit maybe another 25 miles or so, good plan need some Guatemala money, soon found a bank, but no ATM, all sorted in a while we are off into a new country.

Get out of the border town Pedro de Alvarado, we reckon there is a hotel in 25ish miles lets go, push on and go fast, both of us riding like the wind, or it could have been flatulence with all the soft drinks we have been having, anyway it made us ride. First bit down as I was counting down the miles, no need to stop. I have a cunning plan. We keep riding. I know there is a little village before the town with the hotel, like a little oasis. It comes into vision, I take the front, beer stop I shout. Sure enough a little shop with two midget stools outside got to be good for a beer, all hot and sweaty, goes inside the shop, looks at the fridge, can’t believe it they only have Corona, well that will have to do, three bottles later I recall me saying quite like it now! only because it was ice cold.

Little ride down to the hotel, nice place but the service is very slow, little swim in pool, something to eat that took and age, catch up with the family and Steve’s progress, seems like he is heading in the right way, lovely chat with Lyle, who has been the king pin today, visited Steve in London, then relayed all the reports back, good lad.

The family back home have been nothing short of marvelous, visiting Steve and my Mum, it’s been so humbling being this far away, but they still have time to cheer us on, THANK YOU SO MUCH. Hopefully tomorrow, I will have a few shillings for the jukebox.

Then shower, shave and eat again and bed, after the relatively good news today, I think I will sleep better.

Good night.

Day 162 Wednesday 25th June 2025 El Astillero to Santa Lucia (Guatemala)

Lot better service in the restaurant last night, think we may scared them a bit when we were hangry in the afternoon, the rule is never delay a cyclist eating, it can end up in carnage, but all’s well that ends well, they apologised for the delay, we apologised for getting a bit agitated. Lovely pasta meal so all good in the end.

Same old thing in bed by 9, sorted out some more routes then fast asleep, we both slept so well, we really needed it.

Getting used to the early morning routine, now first thing check the update on Steve’s injuries, all positive this morning so that gives us a boost, also check if we need to supply any information etc. once again all good this morning. Then get on with breakfast, today’s offering was gruel, some medieval mixture of oats, barley, nuts and water, just what two highly tuned athletes require in the morning, but that’s all Bingo has, so it will have to do.

Straight on the road, after the hearty breakfast, nice early start, heading towards Escuintla, get a few early morning miles in before the traffic builds up, that’s the plan, need to get some oil pumping around these weary legs before that happens. Always the same legs feel like they belong to someone else first thing in the morning, only takes half an hour then I have them back in control, trouble is then I can’t keep up with them! Still very green, with the volcanos mystically shrouded in clouds in the distance, looks good, just hope they do not start to erupt, that would be fun riding away from the red hot chili peppers, sorry red hot larva, knew it was going to be a jukebox day.

As we eat into the early miles, my head spinning with all the old music Steve used to play at 69 Attlee, bands whirling through my head last night, trying to think of some poignant tracks, from way back then, first one is Patti Smith Horses/Land of a Thousand Dances, mainly because I like the album cover as a 14 year old, great track will need to play it again sometimes, can only remember a few lines, but can still picture the white cover on the album. I will need to play that when we finish today.

Stop at a little cafe Brito, loads of flies so do not stay too long, just time for a quick lukewarm coffee and a soft drink, then hit the road again. Getting busy now with the lorries thundering past us, most of them give us a wide berth, but you get the odd one that gets a bit close, pretty scary. We soon hit the town Escuintla, about 40 miles in, eventually found a place inside with air con, need to keep away from the flies, so nice to have a relaxing drink and rest without pesky things buzzing around us, probably something to do with how we smell I would think. Anyway we got a luxurious coffee, KitKat and a soft drink, what a holiday, living the life of Riley, who was he. It was only 10:30 so I had a bit of a break, then decided to push on for another 20 or so miles.

Sort out some digs in Santa Lucía, another coffee then on are way for another 20 odd mile stretch, getting hotter now, it’s better to be riding that standing still, with the volcanoes in the foreground, got me thinking of another one of Stevens tracks “Ballad of the Beacon” this one I can recall a few of the lyrics:

“We’ll be leaving this town in the morning
Tomorrow we’ll be able to see
I’ve had me enough of the city
And she’s had enough out of me

Say if I climbed to the mountains
Would you still follow me there
Steal me away in an echo
The mountains will always be there”

I am rocking, head in a spin, with my long golden (grey) hair, look like some sort of 1970’s groupie, but singing at the top of my voice, hope Steve can’t hear me, he would just mutter, shut up and listen to the track, never going to do that. Soon smashed the final 20 odd miles, with me murdering the song so badly, at least I enjoyed it. Had to shut up singing as we rolled into Santa Lucía, not only a hotel, but a very nice one, let’s enjoy it.

Few beers, a spot of lunch, then the best shower in living memory, washing the kit in hot water, how good is that, relaxing with a few beers and catching up on the family stuff.

Good days riding again.

Day 163 Thursday 26th June 2025 Santa Lucia to San Sebastian

Poshest hotel for ages and both knackered, just about manage a few beers while writing the blog, after a shower and washing the kit, mate it does need a good wash, warned my sister Deb to be aware, there is a reason why the flies buzz around us, then bed, what a waste of a good restaurant no worries

Catch up on the family stuff, Steve’s recovery seems to be going in the right direction, so thankful for that, least I do not have to reach back to all them 60’s, 70’s prog rock stuff, so pleased he is on the way to recovery, long way to go yet, Steve and us, keep rocking brother, early doors yet but you will recover mate, looking forward to a sly beer somewhere in East Kent or Belgium for that matter.

Back to the riding, well I should not have moaned about medieval gruel yesterday, as today we had nothing, checked the hotel breakfast not till 07:00, sod that we have a snickers bar (not a satisfy) that still has a bit of an undertone for me! Well, we have a chocolate bar and an apple for breakfast. Off we go on our merry way, where are we going, to be absolutely honest, I have not got a clue, north I would expect, need to check my Garmin thing, just pedaling at the moment hopefully in the right direction. All sorted, still going north, heading towards San Sebastian, we just ride and ride, enjoying the early morning not so cool weather and light traffic. The road is pretty busy, have to keep your wits about us, but good easy riding, nothing serious just keep pedalling baby. All good so difficult to watch out for the animals, sometimes we have a nice hard shoulder to ride on others times its just squeeze into the traffic, wow that a song I could go for when I can relax, just popped into my head, Labelled with love, The Squeeze, back in the old Cross Keys, the distant past.

“Shuffles about in her candle lit hovel
Like some kind of witch with blue fingers and mittens
She smells like a cat and the neighbors she sickens
Black and white TV has long seen a picture
The cross on the wall is a permanent fixture
The postman delivers the final reminders
She sells off her silver and poodles and in china.
Drinks to remember
I, me and myself, winds up the clock and knocks dust from the shelf
Home is a love that I miss very much
The past has been bottled and labelled with love”

Keeps me going with a song in my head, mate we will be flying for many a mile, with the little lost breakfast and the songs rattling around my head, we steamed through the early morning. Stopped for the normal coffee and soft drink at Santa Bárbara, just a little place with nice coffee though. Bingo points out a brown snake and it was alive, not sure for how long though, as it was on the side of the road, hopefully we scared it back into the forest.

Easy riding just eating up the miles, my head full of songs, my legs feeling like they could ride forever what else do we need, just ride and take in the ambiance, rocking and rolling through these pleasant places, they are so good to us, the drivers giving us room when they can, people on the road waving, all with a smile on their faces, so good. Always giving the thumbs up to the big lorry drivers, they so appreciate it when we try to get off the road, must admit it’s a bit leary when you have a massive Mack truck trundling behind you, with the noises from the engine scaring the living daylights out of you. Was like that for the last 15 miles, so difficult, just kept on the inside lane skipping through the traffic, keeping your wits about you, not the best of rides, but with the experience and knowledge we were leading the way, the little motorbike following our little endeavors.

For me I was glad when we pulled over to a little cafe, relax we have done it the traffic thundering past us still, as we enjoy a cold beer and search for a place to stay, result only three miles down the road, let’s have another beer then, only two little cans so nothing to worry about.

Glide down to the little place, all booked in with ease, sitting by the pool with a beer within 5 minutes, get some good news from the family while we enjoy a beer by the pool, so good, but it is Central America, the afternoon storm arrives with its normal benevolent self, just have another beer and think that’s why we start off early!

The storm was a good one though, glad we left at 5:30, still going strong a couple of hours later, as we sort out some food.

Day 164 Friday 27th June 2025 San Sebastian to Tapachula (Mexico)

Here we go again the penultimate border crossing, up early, yogurt and biscuits for breakfast, put on the clean, well nearly clean cycling kit, get ourselves smart for the crossing, well we have 40 odd miles to do before the border, so both look like we have been dragged through a hedge backwards by then. Little check on the “English Patient” back home, another good night and now off the lung machine thing, just needs the ribs, collar bone sorted now, all good news

Off we go goodbye Guatemala hello Mexico, in 40 odd miles or so, first we have to tackle a 10 mile climb, should not be that difficult, but early in the morning no time to warm up, it may be. Just get into the climb, doing all right, not too steep, just go on and on, riding most of it on the hard shoulder so the lorries and cars can pass, every now and again you get a motorbike just stop in front of you! Felt like saying to one guy, you try and get this thing going again up here, but just blew him a kiss, he looked at me a bit strange I must say. Still going strong into the rhythm, now just a steady climb, legs pumping lungs full of air, that made me think of Steve, get well soon mate. Soon hit the top of the hill / mountain has to be a mountain at ten miles!Then there is a service station that can already taste the coffee, shame yes it was a service station but no coffee, just a soft drink, never mind had two of them.

Now for the good bit, nice downhill section to the border at Tecun Uman, coasted most of the way, enjoying the free ride, always something in the back of your mind, akin to “There is no such thing as a free lunch” you will pay for it later, same as the free ride, but enjoy it while you can. Glided into Tecun Uman, no problem just kept riding, till a guy in a uniform and a gun stopped us, No puedo pasar por aquí compañero (can’t go through here mate) or something like that, we turn back and look at the maps, fair play to the guy, he comes over and shows us on his phone where we have to go, brilliant we thought we had a 30 mile detour, his was on only 3 miles result. Stuck the new address in the phone and off we went, soon found the Guatemala immigration place, passport all stamped in less that 5 minutes, then the nice lad said just cycle over the bridge into Mexico with a good luck thrown in.

Here we go, found the Mexican place, straight away the guy said leave you bikes here, hard to see if he is smiling cause he has the biggest moustache ever, but do as he says. Show the girls the passport and the tourist tax forms, they mutter some Spanish stuff. I just smile, to no avail, it seems like we need three paper copies of the tourist tax form, guy comes out of the cubicle and shows us where to go and get them. Had to leave the bikes and walk out of the immigration centre, found the little shop doing a roaring business in photocopying cost $1, but because he was so nice gave him £2, with a warning, if they don’t let us in, we will be back. Back to the passport office, try smiling again. This time it works a little bit, though I have to pay a little bit more, no idea why, but pay it and get the passport stamped, we are in, how easy was that. All very nice and polite, really helped us, credit to the nation.

Change some money over, just the leftover Guatemala for some Mexican peso, then pedal into the southern area of Mexico, get out of town a little, then stop for a coffee and check the maps. All good, fuelled up with a strong sugared coffee, well pleased with myself, because it is past 12 and did not even consider a beer, still have 20 odd miles to go, heading for Tapachula, Bingo has sorted out a hostel so all ready to rock. Lovely little flat 20 odd miles down to Tapachula, made me think I should have had a beer, no worries, done the miles in just over an hour. Bit crazy when we hit the town though, missed a turning at a roundabout, then thought we would be clever and blag it, all through the back streets with open gutters and pot holes bigger than me. Was a bit leery and glad when we found the hostel, all in all a good day, nearly 70 miles on a border crossing day and yes I do look like I have been dragged through a hedge backwards. Even the guy who helped us store the bikes said we can do some laundry for you if you wish, not for us mate we are from Sunshine Corner Sunny Aylesham, he just held his nose a bit, bless him.

Bikes sorted, room sorted let’s eat and maybe have a beer.

Day 165 Saturday 28th June 2025 Tapachula to Mapastepec

Very early to bed last night, little bite to eat, proper Mexican tacos, nothing big, we are both knackered, always a bit of a stressful day when going through the borders and all the stuff going on with Steve’s recovery, good early night will sort all that.

Cornflakes for breakfast, bit different but that’s all we could find last night, see how they go, may have to supplement them with a few chocolate bars! Few bits of bike maintenance this morning before we leave, Bingo repaired a flat in his front tyre last night, now his back one is down, just an oil up and pump the tyres up for me, still on the road at 5:45, bit murky but very warm.

Heading towards Mapastepec today, about 65 miles, may do a little more see how we feel, through the myriad of back streets of Tapcgula, before we get on the highway then its plain sailing, just riding fast and hard, nice bit of road so make good time. Did notice a lot of police checks, seems like every town has its own security check, once again had to show are passport and tourist visa three times in the morning, each time they take a photograph of us, not sure why, I did ask if it was for Tinder, she just swiped right, no idea what that means.

Nice new road, that new there were no service stations at all, after about three hours, need to a stop, pulled over to a little shop, not open, but least they directed us over the road, nice place and open, “El Paraiso” celebrated with 2 soft drinks each and a coffee, all good, trying to source a place to stay, no signal, just have to get going again, nice chat with a few guys as we came out of the cafe, interested in what we were doing, don’t think they get many tourists around here.

Set off again, decide just to head towards Mapastepec and have an early finish, loads of washing to do, this is the glamorous touring life we need, been trying to air my tee shirt by tying to the back of my bike, just smells of diesel fumes and covered in dust now, another one of my failed cunning plans.

Got booked into the first hostel we seen, that was a hostel, not one of those others places of ill repute, all sorted, nice shower and wash the clothes at the same time, the outside of our room looks like a Chinese laundry, hopefully it will dry before the afternoon storm comes along.

Then down to the shack on the side of the road for some tasty lunch, refried beans rice and boiled egss, staple diet, keeps us going, no beer just a coffee, will have a beer later all being well. Back to the hostel to relax, sort out some more maps. Unlucky for me the beer did not work out last night, them refried beans went straight through me, felt crap, literally, walked down to the pizza place with Bingo, did not eat anything, went home took some dia-calm and hope for the best.

Week 24 – Nicaragua and El Salvador

NEWS

You will have noticed this blog has not been updated for a while.

You probably know that Bingo & Gringo finished the ride in Austin, Texas, USA, on the 18th August and spent some time with family before returning to the UK.

Their brother Steve, who was/is responsible for this blog managed to fall off his bike a mere two miles from home whilst his brothers were gallivanting half-way around the world!

The details of Week 24 are below: with apologies for the delay. Weeks 25 to 28 will arrive in due course – probably about once a week.

Update on Steve

I crashed my bike on the hill between Frogham and Nonington on Nightingale Lane after a day riding to Sandwich and back looking for wild orchids. I’m not sure what happened but the road was probably slippery with mud and I slid off the road and hit a tree/stump/log.

I broke a few ribs, a collar bone and fractured a hip. Fortunately walkers behind me saw the commotion and called an ambulance, which arrived, and transferred me to William Harvey hospital in Ashford. The next morning I was moved to St. Thomases Hospital in London as my lungs weren’t able to work properly.

They put me on an ECMO machine which basically does the work of your lungs: oxygenates the blood. I have no recollection of this or the induced coma they put me in.

Sometime later I was transferred back to William Harvey where apparently I made good progress with breathing myself and bones stitching together.

I’m now in the Harvey Rehab Ward in Kent&Canterbury where I’m being assessed for any neural damage: I took a knock to the head it seems. All seems to be fine; no physical effects like loss of balance or memory and no loss of language or mental acuity. I should be fit for release in Mid-August. I shall have been almost 2 months in hospital!

A big thanks to the couple who found me and called for help and to the neighbours who rescued my bike and panniers etc and kept them safe. I shall make a point of finding out names and to thank them personally.
A big thanks too for all those who visited me in hospital, even when I was out of it and sounding deranged from the medications. Much appreciated. I do want to hear the full account of the nonsense I spoke.
Finally a massive thanks for all the messages and notes from you all. It was extraordinary how my little, but disparate, groups of friends found each to gather information on what happened and how I progressed in recovery.

I hope to see you all in the near future and say ‘thank you’ personally.
Steve

Day 152 Sunday 15th June 2025 Judas to Ingaray

Bingo did his signature pastahere were no gas bottles, while Bingo was cooking I was tasked with walking the Green Mile down to the in the rain, coming down like stair rods again, but as it was for a good cause I suffered for it. Beers involved, never just come back with beers though, loads of chocolate again, thirsty work watching the rugby on catch up.

Lovely breakfast with my little Snickers bar infused with the cereal, porridge is off the agenda at the moment, obviously the Quakers have not sent enough missionaries to convert the locals to eat porridge. Hit the road bang on 5:30, Bingo & Gringo are just like the Japanese rail network, always on time, not a minute early or late, trouble is the Japanese trains know where they are going!

We just head north and hope for the best, have a little inkling where we would like to end up, but nothing set in stone, just see how the day goes, lovely morning sun trying to break through looks stunning as we ease into the ride, mainly flat today, just a few bumps, as we wind the legs up, both feeling fit as a fiddle at the moment, pushing the limits of our bodies, then just a little bit more.

Good early morning session smashed out over 30 miles, then had a little stop at Hacienda Mojica, just a coffee and a soft drink, nice bit of banter with the guys back home who are out on their bikes, as they are seven hours ahead of us enjoying a nice pint, we will get one sooner or later I am sure, enjoying the coffee at the moment. Still no real agenda, just ride, this will be our last full day in Costa Rica so we’re going to enjoy the food while we are here. Make really good progress, just go straight through a little town Bagaces, on a great road, with a massive hard shoulder so making the most of it, ripping up the miles, well we think we are, then a group of road cyclist charge past us with ease, think about giving chase, then my brain kicks in relax mate, so glad it works sometimes. We can see them in the distance slowing down, just a burst of speed to get past us, but fair play they all gave us a smile and a wave.

We pull over just as we enter Liberia, just before midday over 55 miles done already, this Snowdown train is rocking today, nice little bar / restaurant few beers then light lunch, check the maps, see what’s going on, decided on a place about 18 miles up the road El Cocobolo Food & Rest B&B, all fed and watered as we head off. As normal always starts to rain this time of year in the afternoon, nothing hard just sexy rain, with that and the road going down to a single carriageway and no hard shoulder, makes it a bit dodgy, good that the traffic is still pretty light, as we push on.

Soon do the miles with ease as the rain gets increasingly heavier, pull into the B&B, you can hear the Karaoke, down the road, the locals enjoying their Sunday afternoon, we get booked in enjoy a few beers before we have a shower, check out that the restaurant is open till 9, hopefully I will be in bed by then. Bit of luck the guy singing eventually packs up, never been a fan off Julio Iglesias or his son, for that matter, but the guy did do a version of “Begin the Beguine” the old Cole Porter classic, done so much better by “Old Blue Eyes” , another song for tomorrow.

Nice chilled afternoon, washed the kit, next to no chance of drying as its still raining but at least it’s a bit clean.

Then sort out some routes for the next few days, border crossing tomorrow into Nicaragua around lunchtime tomorrow.

Day 153 Monday 16th June 2025 Ingaray to Rivas

The guy packs up singing, maybe because I was itching to have a go, that would have cleared the country, never mind the bar, We went down for dinner very early just as everyone else was clearing off. I had everything on the vegetarian menu: soup, salad and fried vegetables, got to make the most out of having an option, probably all change tomorrow when we cross over to Nicaragua, will worry about that tomorrow. Relaxing evening once again only us staying a few beers and a bit of banter with the staff, ended up agreeing to have breakfast at 6 in the morning, me being asked if we could have it at 5:30, no way, but worth an ask.

Both of us like caged tigers in the morning waiting for the lovely lady to get the breakfast, always pushing it, but fair play she was game, started serving us way before six, so on the way just after 06:15, when there’s food around it does not take long for us to devour it, throwback to when we were all growing up, get in there quick, never close your eyes when saying grace, Graham would always pinch a potato and he was the good one!

So we are off, another exciting border crossing, by all accounts can be a bit hectic and leery, we will see, first we have to get there, maybe I should have looked at the route, seemed really hilly in the morning, came as a bit of a surprise, but nothing to to worry about. Really nice tree lined roads, like the roads through the middle of France, where the avenue of trees is endless, so green and pleasant, good riding, even if it is a bit uphill.

Just steady away, loving the countryside through the Guanacaste National Park, stunning scenery, birds chirping and monkeys lurking in the trees, screeching but never really visible, just watching a pair of old blokes riding through, could tell they was looking at us in awe, thinking they have never seen such fine looking guys, definitely not Australians I heard the main man say! then the younger one said, could we not eat the little one! Just me daydreaming again, thinking the juke box has stuck, needs a kick, when I woke up I was at the top of the little hill, how good is that. Now downhill all the way to Nicaragua, enjoying the downhill free ride, no such thing in reality, just trust the physics what goes up must come down, they all even out if you cycle enough.

Soon come to the little town La Cruz, stop in a little bar on the main road, lovely service, as they was only just opening when we stopped, even asked if we wanted a beer, with a weary smile I declined, as I need to be on my best behaviour on border crossing days, shame so settle for a coffee and a soft drink, then could see why they asked if we wanted a beer, some guys still left over from last night having a beer in the corner, nice.

Off we go with a drunken handshake to the guys getting over last night, bit light on the songs this morning, must be I am just a tadge concerned over the border crossing, I think I have read too many blogs, sure it will be fine just relax, as we carry on the descending. Soon hit the tail back of trucks, must be at least 4 miles from the border, Bingo mentions, not sure what’s going on, but we have not seen all these trucks today, just sail down the outside of them, can tell the border is getting close, people lurking about all over the place.

Obviously the crossing is being redeveloped, new border crossing facilities being built, but at the moment it is chaos, nearly as mad as the Port of Dover on a good day, at least they had some guys directing us, in and out of the traffic.

First go through the Costa Rica side, pay $10 exit fee, sure the girl was legit, well she had a nice smile and a little badge, then join the little queue, all done on Costa Rician side, then where, just follow the pedestrians, come to the Nicaraguan side, guy checks the passport makes sure we have an exit stamp, charges us $1, sure that’s not legit, but carry on and join the queue, not that bad, soon get to the desk, same sort of questions, where are you staying, phone number etc, just give them a smile and show them address on the phone, that seems to please them, well the $13 might of helped, but hey ho we are through, another country to explore, well first thing we have to collect the bikes, the other side of passport control, no worries just sneak around the back, chat to a couple of construction workers, they move their tower we get the bikes, all the while the security guys are busy doing nothing.

Stop for a beer or two at a little cafe place, once again so friendly, they run out of beer so not only does she go and get some more, she also changes over our money, at a better rate than we can get, so nice we have a couple of more beers, lovely.

Off we go into Nicaragua, hugging the lake of the same name, see the twin volcanoes on Ometepe island, very nice sight as we swirl down the a very similar avenue of trees, bit more relaxed now so not only are we animal watching again, a few little songs burst out of the jukebox of a brain I have, first one is “Dirty old Town” the Pogues version just because it came into my mind while we was having a beer at the border, all the people eking out a living, with a smile on their face:

I met my love by the gas works wall
Dreamed a dream by the old canal
I kissed my girl by the factory wall
Dirty old town, dirty old town

Then my favorite, being an old Blacksmith

I’m gonna make me a big sharp axe
Shining steel tempered in the fire
I’ll chop you down like an old dead tree
Dirty old town, dirty old town

Mate I am flying now, my head is spinning , Shane Patrick Lysaght MacGowan RIP man, a laureate of booze and beauty, man after my own heart, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

Back to riding and loving the early stages of Nicaragua, all the songs of the Pogues come flooding back, think I may have to carry on riding, like everything we come to a little town and I have to start to concentrate again.

Bingo pulls up sharply at a restaurant on the side of the road, nice place, then I notice it is joined to a hotel, within 5 mins we have got beers, food and a room sorted, lovely lunch, then make our way up to the room, all good.

Good afternoon watching the mid afternoon rain storm, then a little walk around the town, watching a bit of baseball on the telly, next to the baseball stadium, it’s not cricket.

Good night

Day 154 Tuesday 17th June 2025 Rivas to Managua

Chris Pidcock All the very best mate, thinking of you. Once a Yorkshire man always one, but very welcome to the Garden of England, true god’s country. Stay in there mate, total respect.
Bingo and Gringo, currently in the wilds of Nicaragua.

After the walk around Rivas and sampling a few of the bars, watched a bit of rounders on the TV, not sure what was going on, it looked like a load of blokes in their pajamas playing rounders, then back to the restaurant for another meal, got to keep the fires burning. Also booked in for breakfast in the morning at 6, so another lay in, right proper holiday now.

Get all the bikes ready, before we enter the restaurant, then the lovely lady says sorry breakfast not until 7?, little chat, tried a smile, that did not even work, maybe I do need a haircut, it never usually fails, though managed to get two coffees, filled them up with sugar, that will do for breakfast, well it will have to.

Off we go, straight through the little town of Rivas, just as the lads and lasses are off to work, feels great being on holiday, as soon as we our out of the town, back into the tree lined avenues, pretty flat to start with, then a little incline we think. Heading to a pretty big city Managua [It’s the capital city of Nicaragua: Ed] on the banks of another lake “Lago Xolotian” nothing booked just see how we go, first part of the morning is very nice, before the sun rises, by 9ish it is very hot and the sugar ladened coffee has worn off, so we pull over to a roadside shack Comedor San Roquito, coffee, with loads of sugar, soft drink and breakfast, couple of fried eggs, chapati thing (I know they are from India, but that’s what it looked like and tasted like) Bingo also had the sausage and mine, not much to fuel these toned athletes.

On we push still lovely green tree lined roads, every now and again you hear a shriek, then we got lucky, managed to spot a tribe of monkeys swinging in the trees, loved it, stopped on the side of the road for ages watching them. The little incline is getting a bit steeper now, we knew it ramped up a bit, for about 20 miles, nothing serious, just know you are going uphill, getting very hot now, quick little ice cream break in a fly infested petrol station so did not stay there long. Just carry on pedalling, taking in the brilliant scenery, now the sun is really breaking through, be carful what you wish for, as the sweat is dripping of us, have a little chat, we both fancy a drink again, but want to go inside, find a little shop in Jinotepe , just like the little Co-op, or Tricky Trevs whatever its called now, make ourselves at home on two plastic chairs in the middle of the shop, in fact it was nice, very cool with a fan and air conditioning so spoilt, another ice cream and soft drink more importantly relax

Sure we was only in there half an hour, weather had completely changed when we came out, dark clouds hanging and light drizzle, Bingo the weather man did not predict this, within 10 minutes it was a full blown tropical storm, fork lightning dazzling us and the loudest claps of thunder I have ever heard, rain pelting down, on we pedalled, to be honest the lighting bit was a bit leary, but did not fancy just stopping, so pedalled through it. Torrents of water cascading down the hill, sometimes it way over the pedals, but these lads from Sunshine Corner can handle it, all the motorbikes were pulling off the road, had a chat basically do you want to stop, Bingo said not keen on the lightning, but would rather carry on, I totally agreed, so on we went. The rain and the thunderstorm not letting up, just as we come over the brow of a little hill, petrol station on the right, so we take a bit of cover in there, its packed with motorcyclists, so stand in the corner with a hot cup of coffee, check the maps, bit easier in the dry, reckon there is a restaurant about 3 miles up the road, lets go for it. Turned up in the restaurant only us two drowned rats, little old lady with all the charisma of a French waitress (none), don’t think she liked us dripping water over her pristine floor, managed to get the order and a few beers. I think she then realised we were on bikes, eventually she even managed to crack a smile, a nice meal though and a few little beers, made us both feel better.

Only a couple of miles to the end of the little climb, then a nice roll into Managua, Bingo managed to book a hostel, while I was trying to get a smile out of Giovanny, the scary waitress. For once it was a glorious roll in, as soon as we came off the hills, the weather cleared, back to the sun, lovely. Straight into the basic hostel, really not going to do much tonight, get out of the wet cycling gear, wash and dry as best we can, then eat again. All booked in the hostel, a few beers and relax, when the chores have been done.

Day 155 Wednesday 18th June 2025 Managua to Chinandega

Chinese meal last night was just around the corner from the hostel, we know what we are getting, a plate full of noodles and vegetables for me, same for Bingo with added meat stuff, also know they do not serve beers, rest assured we brought our own from the supermarket. Great filling meal, we both managed to finish eventually, little walk back to hostel then bed, tried to read for a little no way, fast asleep straight away.

Back to the normal routine, breakfast in the room, then an early depart at 5:30, little bit convoluted getting out of Managua, that’s understandable as it is the capital city of Nicaragua, unfortunately not enough time to tour the old city, would have been good to see the old cathedral which is just a shell now, following an earthquake in 1972. Though that storm yesterday was pretty bad, seems like nothing compared to you, another song, meant to say 1972.

Get back on to the ride, heading for Leon, or maybe a bit further, just see how it goes, good thing we were on the outside Managua, so it did not take us very long to get out of the city. Very still morning, no breeze as yet, as we get these beast rolling, just a pedal and they are off, I have trouble to keep up with mine sometimes, so busy singing and dancing through central America, my bikes just rolls, while my jukebox brain chucks out random numbers, honestly, not got a clue where they come from, some little fragment of still alive brain tissue, yesterday found myself singing “I have run out of pale ale, feel like I am in jail and my music bores me once again” had to goggle that one, turns out its by a guy called Brian Protheroe “Pinball” must have liked it way back then, who knows. At the time I was trying to think of a good Cockney Rebel song, Steven took me to see them in 1974, and will get a track out of that soon.

Still riding while my mind wanders all over the place, really going for it this morning, maybe cause we are back on the breakfast regime, full of goodness, the best meal of the day, as my lovely Mum always says, eat your fruit and have a good breakfast, Bingo keeping up the traditions. First stop a bit unplanned, always the best on the edge “Lago Xolotain” great viewing point, watching a couple of lads mastering their rowing boat in the swell, fair play to them it looked difficult. Off we go again full of zest this morning pumping the legs, enjoying the ride, Bingo spotting even more birds, every now again, usually while I am singing my head off, I hear a shout did you see that, obviously not most of the time, two great spots this morning:
White-throated Magpie-Jay (Cyanocorax formosus) and White Ibis (Eudocimus albus), sure we have seen this before, or maybe another Ibis.

We pull over at a nice little cafe, La Milpa Ecolodge have the hattrick again as the sun is shining, coffee, soft drink and ice cream, living the dream, hope the sun stays out, though it’s hot, better than the rain, least I can see a little bit when its sunny. On we go still riding hard and fast, pushing the miles, its only 11:00 and we are just outside Leon, have a chat, check the weather, see if we can push on a bit, as we hit the ring road before Leon, decide to ride around it and stop outside the town, see what our options are. All good, stop in a service station with good WIFI, me always checking the time, is it opening time yet, Bingo a stern no, looks like we have got another 30 miles to do! hey ho have a coffee and an ice cream then., I book a place up the other side of Chinandega, around 30 odd miles away, nothing can wrong, enjoy the break then head off.

To be perfectly honest very easy ride, just both of us got a bit of stomach cramps, for want of a better word the shits (sorry Mum), mate had to pull over a few times in the field, love the baby wipes we carry, neither of us felt ill just needed to go quick, not nice! Managed to complete the final bit with clenched bums, really not easy, but both of us felt fine, not de-hydrated or anything, it will pass, sorry for the pun.

Booked into the rather lavish place, you can tell I booked it, only for the soft toilet paper I might add, every little luxury helps. Lovely afternoon relaxing very close to the facilities and gingerly trying a couple of beers, sure it’s not them, it never is.

Both feel good, which is a relief, have a little meal just a stone’s throw away from the hotel, both feeling so much better, hardy souls with a constitution of an ox or more truthfully hiding it and still have a beer, all will be better in the morning. Good days riding nearly 80 miles all good.

The House family would like to send heartfelt condolences to the Miller family, loyal bastions of the Aylesham community, for their sad loss of “Johnny Miller” , a true family friend. The Millers & Houses go back a long time, My dad had so much respect for Mr Miller (Jack), he helped my dad so much throughout the early 1970’s, respect to the family RIP Johnny.

Day 156 Thursday 19th June 2025 Chinandega to Guasaule and back to Chinandega

Because we were in a relatively posh hotel, well for us it was, we decided to have the breakfast that we had paid for, hence, bikes already queuing at the door at 5:45 for a 6 start. Me being me was straight in there, while the guy was setting up, only having a coffee, then some cereal, toast, had the full breakfast before he was meant to open, my thoughts we had paid for it so having it at a time that suits us.

On the bikes by 06:15, border crossing day, Bingo has had a shave, I have combed my flowing grey locks, trying to look the best we can, truth be told the kit could do with a proper wash, though I think my shorts may fall apart if I put them through that. Heading towards Guasaule on the Honduras side, then a little bit further in, if the crossing goes well.

Good run out of Chinandega, only 40 odd miles to the border, always like to get there as early as possible, so both putting on the speed a bit, working the legs and eating up the miles, easy riding. Back into the rural countryside now, paddy fields and sugar beet the main crop, with pigs, chickens, goats and what not foraging around the road side, farmers on horseback, some pulling trailers, even seen a couple of oxen pulling a trailer, that looked difficult. Did make us feel a bit guilty here we are pedalling through their country for fun, while they seem to be working so hard to eek out a living, everyone we passed had a smile and a wave though, incredibly humbling, but so nice to reach out and give them a high five as we go past. Nice view of Volcan Casita, the top shrouded in mist, eerily looking like smoke erupting, or just my vivid imagination again, worth a little stop for a few pictures. Then needed another stop before the border, because I had forgot to fill up my water bottles this morning, more concerned with pinching a slice of toast when the guy was not looking, so a little stop soft drink and a big bottle of water, completely frozen, breakdown in my Spanish again, just asked for it cold! no worries, strapped it to my bike, it will thaw in 10 minutes.

On we push, you know when you are getting close to the border, the lorry’s start to build up and the street venders appear out of woods, starts getting a bit crazy, as we cycle through the lorries and ignore the vendors, just keep going, the border / immigration guys soon stop you. Eventually they did , sent us through the Nicaragua side, all done in 15 mins great, now a mystery tour of where to go now, followed a guy on a touring motorbike, through the no-man’s land, then into Honduras immigration control. As normal queued in the big long snake thing, like waiting at the bacon counter in the Co-op, Bingo goes on to a cubicle I go to another, same old rigmarole, where you staying, how long etc, etc, then pay the guy $3, he stamps my passport and waves me through, Bingo still at his counter, bit of a problem with his Russian visa, he mouths to me, wait another 10 minutes, then it goes pear shaped, what do you mean I cant come in? Allegedly we now need a visa to enter Honduras! I could have gone and entered the country legally, was outside changing money over to Honduras Lempira, went back in the hall, Bingo called me over, they took my passport off me again, then went and had a little conversation behind closed doors, then cancelled my entry stamp, with hardly a word spoken, just said you need a visa.

So we go back to the Nicaragua side and spend a couple of hours going back through the place we have just came from, with all the same charges, not the best border crossing I have ever experienced, up there with the worst.

Just as we were pushing the bikes through the masses of traffic and people trying to get a place to have a moment and go through the options, got news, that our brother Steven has fallen off his bike and is in William Harvey Hospital ICU, that really puts it into perspective, just having a problem at a border pales into insignificance, spent the next hour or so, trying to get as much information as possible, obviously difficult from here and just as difficult back home by all accounts, really impressed with how the family pulled together all doing their bit to piece together what actually happened, so nice to know the people at home are pulling out all the stops, thank you so much, from Bingo and Gringo.

Being a couple of bus w* on the way back to Chinandega, place where we started from this morning, not great, but hey ho tomorrow’s another day, sod James Bond.

Definitely in the wrong side of town tonight, not the best of places, but made do with a pizza and a few beers in the room, while we try and re-route and catch up on Steve’s injuries, as we are 7 hours behind Steve’s updates went quiet, so gave us time to put in to action plan B, when we know what it is. Seems there may be a plan B boat from a little town Potosí to La Unión El Salvador, Bingo is on the case, I am sorting a route out to Potosi, have the plan sorted in a few minutes, boat journey booked and a route sorted.

Bit of a crazy day to say the least, get well soon Steve, we will have more updates in the morning, but for now good night.

Day 156 – 48 miles in 4 hrs 5 mins and 50 miles back in the bus

Steve, all the very best mate, take your time and recover, will still send the blogs, no worries about getting published, sort that out later

Day 157 Friday 20th June 2025 Chinandega to Potosi

Bingo’s Birthday

Well we woke up in a slightly better place than we did for Rylan’s birthday a couple of months ago, only slightly, as it did not smell like a public convenience much. Least we were on holiday, not like Steven in a hospital bed in Ashford, both of us eagerly opening up the messages to see how he is getting on, being 7 hours behind we had to sift through a few to get the latest prognosis, not brilliant but least he is in the best place, seems like he has broken a few ribs, dislocated his pelvis and is having trouble breathing, really not good news.

Pretty difficult for me to write a happy blog this morning, couple of long chats with the family back home, they have reassured us they are doing their upmost for Steve and for our Mum.

So after a difficult start and water on the cereal as we forgot to get the yoghurt last night, we are off, around 06:30, not bad as we had been up since 5, had a lot of stuff to sort out. Only had a 46 mile ride to do, so no worries on the biking, just head toward Potosí, ride and think about all the stuff the family back home are sorting, really doing a fabulous job, so good when you have good family that all pull together when needed, made Bingo’s & myself day a little easier, all we have to do is pedal.

Trying to lift the mood, even spotted a little brown snake, on the road both turned back to have another look, a local guy turned up said very dangerous, really we said, then he kicked it, not this one it’s dead, but they are very dangerous he warned. Just kept pedalling stopped in a small service station hoping for some air-conditioning, nothing going, least they had a few fans, ice cream and 2 soft drinks, then back on the road, for the last 10 miles to Potosí, strange little fishing village, but you can tell they are used to a few travellers passing through, met a few young English / Irish guys who had just got off the boat, they seemed to enjoy the crossing, so all looking good for tomorrow.

Spent the afternoon checking up on family stuff, done a bit of washing and finally throw my cycle shorts and socks in the rubbish bin, both done over 150 days riding and over 8000 miles so they do not owe me anything.

Early night then boat ride tomorrow.

Day 158 Saturday 21st June 2025 Potosi to San Miguel (El Salvador)

Bingo’s birthday meal last night consisted of a giant bag of quaver things and loads of beers, nothing open in the sparkling little port Potosi, so off we trudge back to the hostel with a little carry out, many happy returns of the day Bingo.

Least we had breakfast to look forward to in the morning, one of life’s great luxuries, had to wait till 7 though, up with the larks, as two parrots, big green ones, having a chat outside around 5:30 in the morning, no worries both stirring so all good. Checked the updates on Steve, still not good reading, but at least he is in the right place and getting the best treatment, both of us feeling for him, the family back home have been marvelous with so much love and support.

Both hank marvin so we wander out to the breakfast are pretty early, get served a coffee and another one, then the much anticipated breakfast came, fried eggs rice and fried batter things, we demolished it with ease, nice and filling though, waited a while then decided to ride down to the jetty, met the guy who was organising this end, just as we left the hostel, 3 copies of the passport required, took us into a little shop, go them sorted, he took two copies and gave us the other one, give it to the immigration guy he said as he shot off on his little motorbike.

We arrived two hours early at the immigration post, they had not opened yet, no worries, we are not going to miss this boat hopefully not, sat outside the place while the two guys inside got ready for the rush, about 18 people max on the boat. We were the first no one else around when they casually opened up the window, well a bit of plastic, passed the passports over with the $3 not a bribe, just had to pay for the ink in the passport stamp or their wages. All sorted, only another 1.5 hours to wait, no worries, read a book and wait.

Bit of activity, bus turns up, a few more people congregate down by the pier, not the boardwalk! we amble down there, table set up definitely a boat coming in, within 10 minutes here we go a small boat turns up about a dozen people on board all like tourists, as they have to jump in the water and walk up the black sand to the desk, the guys on the boat collect all their luggage. Then it’s chaos in the first degree, all the passengers have to open up their backpacks and show the border guys the contents, very strange, takes about an hour to process, then another boat turns up, same thing, Bingo and Gringo just sitting on the pier watching it unfold.

Sorted the second boat out, guy comes over, says take your bags off the bikes and put them in the first boat, bags off, Bingo and I wade out with the bike over the shoulder to the boat, guy just lays then down at the front, not much room. Then instructs us to bring our bags to the table, everything out the guy just looks at the tents, sleeping bags and stuff, all good, try and repack, then Bingos turn sure enough they notice his drone, big problem, end up marching him up to the offices, me looking after the bags. Then the guy comes over, you need to get the bikes off the boat, not looking good, bit of translation stuff, but sure enough I have to wade out again and get both bikes off the boat.

All going a bit pear shaped, but sitting patiently in the shade reading my book for a couple of hours, eventually the first boat leaves at 12:30 very late, then more passengers turn up for the second boat. They get all their baggage checked and searched, little chat with a few, what are you waiting for, just my brother he is up there in jail, I joke only a few drugs, only jokingly had a drone, is that worse in this part of the world who knows. Anyway they all get on the boat and it just sits there bobbing in the water. About an hour later Bingo reappears from his prison cell, minus the drone, come on we can go, frantically load the bikes up and all the baggage as the passengers already on the boat think we are the cause of the delay, yes we are. Soon set sail on to El Salvador, roughly a two hour crossing.

Nice crossing if the truth be known I slept most of the way, quite therapeutic, the rocking of the boat and the fresh sea air, fast asleep, woke up just as we were entering La Union, but better this side we did not need to wade into the sea. Luggage and bikes off, then cycle down the pier to the El Salvador immigration, not so bad, passports checked, no need to check the baggage all done in half an hour. Say a few farewells to some of the travellers on the boat that Bingo chatted to , while I was sleeping like a baby.

Off to change some money, then a little 30 mile dash to San Miguel, all being well, sorted some cash out, was unaware they use US$, topped up with them then we are off. Did not leave La Union, till after 3 in the afternoon, so a big ask to do the 30 miles or so before it gets dark, but will give it a go.

First part was a 5 mile climb out of the town, that got the legs going and the concentration as the road was pretty busy and rough, sorted the climb out, then just pedalled, eating up the miles, did feel a bit strange with the sun going down in front of us. First time we experienced that on this tour, as the sun dropped it was getting difficult to see, we just pedalled through it as fast as we could. Finally hit the outskirts of San Miguel, rode through the city in the decaying light and finally found the hostel on the other side of the city, a good move really as it will make tomorrow’s start a bit easier.

Booked into the hostel, quickly shower and wash the kit then straight back out to eat and eat, nice meal walk back via a supermarket stock up on supplies, including the chocolate then back to the hostel to sleep.