Week 03 From Chile back to Argentina

Day 5 Sunday 19th January 2025 San Sebastian to Cerro Sombrero

Sunday bloody Sunday, here we go again, after a lovely days rest in San Sebastian, a tiny little hamlet on the Chile side of the border. Our host also called Sebastian hailed from Seveonoaks in Kent, with a Chilean mother he has lived here for 8 or so years. Really of all the place to live it’s like Dungeness for a thousand square miles, but he likes it, so who am I to say any different. Good guy though left us a packed lunch for Cerro Sombrero outside our room as we sneaked away just after 06:00 in the morning. Bingo’s plan that the wind is not so strong so let’s ride early, not what we normally do, but that’s what happens when you let him have a rest day he starts planning. The whole ethos of this tour is no plan!

We off set just after 6 with no breakfast – part of the plan. The first thing about this plan is that the wind’s still 35mph straight in your face, but me being too scared to mention it, I carry on regardless, maybe a film. We battle this wind for nearly four hours, crawling along at 6 / 7 mph, with every muscle in your body working, finally we come to the junction we have to turn left up to Cerro Sombrero, both of us collapsed on the side of the road, Bingo smiled that good I though it would take us 5 hours to get her and we done it in 3.75 hours, but to be honest I am knackered again, hey ho only 50 odd mile to go, I think to myself as I wrestle with a boiled egg, the shell nearly won, but I persevered and finally peeled the damned thing, few bits of chocolate my go-to thing when its to early for beer and I am as right as rain.

Low and behold our German friend Nicholas walked across the road, he had been sheltering in a culvert over there, he must have heard my argument with the boiled egg! Had a nice little chat, hopefully we will keep in touch, he did seem a bit disappointed that we was going to Cerro Sombrero, why not come with me and see the Penguins he said, Bingo just looked at him and said f* the penguins. Then a Russian girl turned up, she has been living in Bueno Aires for the last 3 years, loves her traveling, she was hitch-hiking around the local area and seen the f* penguins yesterday. Seem like a good way to travel in this wind. Fair play we all get up say our goodbyes and happy riding. Just getting my bike together the Russian girl is jumping into a wagon – good result,

So 50 odd miles to go, best get my mind in gear, we turn the corner and low and behold got the wind on my back, mate I am singing like a trouper here we go, sorry to say it only lasted for 20 mins but we both enjoyed it while it lasted. We both just sat in and pushed the ride out, sure the Guanacos gracefully jumping the fences and frolicking about where taking the mickey out of us, totally not graceful, stamping on the pedals trying to make the bikes go faster to no avail. Still Bingo’s plan so we had to keep going, finally pulled over after another two hour push, checked the water levels, obviously I still had two full bottles, so shared them out on the side of the road, first thing guy stops going the other way asks if we are Ok, Bingo say we need water, aqua, the guy says sorry and gives and gives him a cold Fanta, then the next car stops, we fill all the water bottles up have the customary photoshoot with a lovely Brazilian couple good people, we are getting so much support.

Only 25 mile to go my little head calculates possibly anther three to four hours riding in this wind, push on let the Tourettes take over from the singing for a while that will pass the time. Honestly I am loving this but its really difficult, we push on then see a sign only 16K to go around 10 miles, anyone can do that I say to myself.

Bingo and I share a little sweet, this is what its all about, over the din of the wind he shouts, just around the corner we turn left, the wind will be behind us for the last 6 or 7 miles, I can’t read my Garmin its covered in snot and dust just looks like a plate of spaghetti, so I have to believe him.

Wow the last 5 miles we just sat up and rolled 20 odd mph – felt good and good planning on Bingo’s part, digs right on the outside of the this small village Cerro Sombrero. Straight in within 5 minutes beer and relax, another tough day, but that’s what we signed up for.

Day 5 – 75miles 8hrs12mins 870m up 856m down

**South American gray fox** (**Lycalopex griseus**)

Day 6 Monday 20th January 2025 Cerro Sombrero to Villa Punta Delgrada

Nice lay in this morning with breakfast at the hostel. A nice little spread that will set us up for the day. All packed to set off, then noticed a fox eyeing up a little kitten, the hostel owner doing his best to get it away, with not much success. Off we set on a 25ish mile jaunt to the ferry crossing over the Strait of Magellan. We had done a bit of research allegedly the ferry runs every hour and is free for cyclists, so all seems good. Nice little ride no wind what a difference that makes, so much easier Bingo practising his no handed bicycle tricks, while scouting the bleak country side for wildlife, just the odd fox and of course the ever agile Guanacos, love watching then hop over the fences with not a care in the world, however we did spot a few road kills were they have not got it quite right, big price to pay.

Soon got down to the ferry terminal, well not much of a ferry terminal, just a run down shed, they waved us both on the waiting ferry, bit exciting riding down the slipway and onto the ferry, very similar to the ferry we got across the Shannon in Ireland last year. Unfortunately not a lot to see, but as ever Bingo kept his eyes peeled he is desperate to spot a Condor, no luck at the moment. A little bit more on the Punta Delgada side, so decided to have a coffee and relax, getting used to this now.

Soon on our way cycling majestically down Ruta 257 on route to a little village “Villa Punta Delgrada”. Bingo spots a the Cresta Cara Cara eagle elegantly perched on the fence, nice spot, then a not so elegant but just as exciting a massive Rhea or as us locals call them “Nandu”, mate good day for wildlife today, few more Rheas and foxes. Then just a hop skip and a jump to Punta Delgrada, book in to a little hostal and make plans for the next stage of this epic adventure, rooms a bit sparse but has hot water and nice food so good for me. Only a 46 mile jaunt today, mainly because the next place to stay is another 80 miles down the road, which will also involve crossing the border again back into Argentina, so will tackle that mañana.

Day 7 Tuesday 21st January 2025 from Villa Punta Delgrada to Rio Gallegos

Another early start, but to be fair we are up early so just as well get going, us Aylesham lads still going posh bowl of Alpen for breakfast, Bingo still tight with the chocolate so just the Alpen with the milk I have carried around for the last two days, went down a treat. Said good-bye to all the insects sharing our room, think that may get worse as we travel up, at least these were only centipede things and not scorpions.

On the road just after 6, down a “ripo” track (unmade road), then onto the highway heading for the Chile -Argentinian border at San Gregorio Magallanes y la Antártica. Like all borders you never know how long it will take to clear them, so just relax and go with the flow, it’s actually a good time to have a chat to all the guys who have waved at us on the road. As always Bingo the eagle eyed animal spotter is on the look out, first thing he flushes out is a hare, good spot, we have given up on the Guanacos now, they are “two a penny”. Lovely big Rhea (already forgot the local name) running along the side of the road with eight fledgings – a great sight, they can half run fast, she was trying her best to keep then in control.

Got to the Chilean side of the border, not much of queue, but still takes a bit of time, as we have to make sure I have not sold my “Verde Surly” and Bingos “Cannondale azul metalizado” thats what on our input / export form. Sailed through that, then a little ride to the Argentinian side, all good through there, bit of a chat to a few motorcycle guys and the girl at the passport desk rushed us through with a smile and good luck, chucked in with “debes estar enojado” (you must be mad).

So back into Argentina, on this lonely road National Route 3 the highway to hell! Not so mad today but still making us work for every mile we cycle, basically head down and pedal to Rio Gallegos. Which we duly did, albeit with a couple of rest stops. Glided into the outskirts of the town, had to stop at a little shop to get some Chocolate and drinks, sat outside the shop looked like an old oil town dormitory area, not the best place but the people were fine.

Then cruised well pedalled like mad for the next 5 miles to a hostel we thought we may be able to stay at, could not book it last night as the WI-FI was intermittent to say the least. All good the owner spotted Bingo outside and welcomed us in, great hosts could not do enough for us, even made Bingo a Tortilla de quesos y jamón, I had the same without the jamon, and of course a few beers.

Settled into the digs and did a bit of washing, as the girl behind Bingo at the border control put her sweat shirt over her nose, maybe that’s a sign and I am starting to smell myself, so I think it’s maybe a good idea.

Day 8 Wednesday 22nd January 2025 Rio Gallegos to near Cerro El Faso

Double Header today little 140 mile jaunt up to Piedr Bueno, there is nothing in between to two town, so its looks like a little camping. After our hearty breakfast not enough for a condemned man stale bread and jam, least that’s we went to school on, fair play the bread was never stale then!

Off we set without a care in the world. just a nagging feeling this could be tough, we flew through the first 20 odd miles wind on our tails, early doors though as we both knew we had to tun into the wind after 25 or so miles.

Turned right into a steady climb around 3 miles and a decent gradient, just ploughed up it, alas we was not to know but when we reached the brow of the climb it do not stop, here we go again straight into the head wind. We ended up battling the head wind all day, 2 hours riding then a little rest repeat. Both of us were hoping to over the halfway mark, just to make it a little easier for tomorrow. We are both getting used to the weather pattern the wind seems to get stronger in the afternoon, just when we are getting tired.

We nearly made the halfway stage and had good intentions, but the clouds started to darken, little spots of rain, so decided to stop and see how the weather turns, pretty b* obvious really, but like to fool ourselves. We did the now familiar trick lifting up your bottle water to the oncoming traffic, within a few cars guys stopped and topped the water bottles up, good guys.

There is nowhere to hid out here, our best plan was to huddle around a culvert under the road, both of us just layed down and rested, realised that the wind was not going to die down, so made camp. No tents just sleeping bags inside the culvert. Thanks to Glen I now have a nice tripod camping stool (cut down to fit in my panniers), think it was left over from a Cornish tour, Bingo has the upmarket version, so both sitting on the stools, “what we going to now then” lets cook something, Bingo fires up his Bunsen burner, sure its got a proper name but that’s what it looks like. Peel the onions chuck then in, Bingo is in his element chucking this in and that, even had last nights left over rice. We ended up with a pasta / rice tomato and onion thing, was very nice, that good we decided to eat are breakfast before we went to bed to save time in the morning.

Then bed in our detached culvert, no need to worry about the trucks rumbling over head, it was really cold, with the wind blustering through until the early hours.

Day 9 Thursday 23rd January 2025 near Cerro El Faso to Commandante Luis Piedrabuena

Both woke up freezing just before 6, lucky we had already had our breakfast, on the road just before 6, really light wind, made excellent progress for the first 4 hours riding none stop, trying to get the most out of the kind weather. Wildlife not changing much, seeing a few more Rheas and their families trotting along the road, they look so good and the mad Lamas risking a dodgy skip across the road.

Made really good progress today, ended up with a tail wind for around 20 miles felt so good, then tuned into the wind for the last 10 miles or so, not a big deal. Nice early finish today, washing done, then busy sorting out el viaje de mañana (tomorrows ride) and eat.

Day 10 Friday 24th January 2025 Commandante Luis Piedrabuena to Puerto San Julian

Bit more planning the usual, as we are continuously looking at the wind direction as it makes such as difference to the days ride. So today the cunning plan (Baldric should join us), is to get up at 5:30, breakfast in the room, then hit the road early, before the big winds come. Breakfast done bikes packed ready to rock and roll at 6, bit bleary eyed but able to pedal we crept along, first climb of the day was early doors, always good as it warms you up and gets the legs moving, nothing special just a little climb. Both of us scared to say too much as the gentle wind was actually behind us, just kept pushing through the banana and chocolate peanuts in this mornings porridge paying dividends ( who can remember their co-op dividend number), not sure where my mind goes sometimes, its all over the place when I am riding, but best get back to the point. We were flying going faster the than the Rheas and fledgings, wonder want the correct name is for a young Rhea, something to think about! The plan was to ride for four hours non-stop, then see how we feel.

A lovely couple in a car put a stop to that, just before the four hour mark, they pulled up and waved us down with a handful of chocolate cake things and some pastries, the chocolate things are lovely like a wagon wheel was back in the day, not so sure about the pastries, bit dry. But was so nice of them, there are some lovely people in this world.

Off we go again full steam ahead, more power captain, my legs just said relax mate take it steady, think they know better than my head, so settled for a steady 16 mph, good going on bikes with 50KG of baggage attached to them, just cruising along, taking in the arid bush land, the only time we notice the Llamas now is when they make a kamikaze decision to cross the road just in front of you. It can be quite scary as the hesitate right in front of you, not sure I would have the strength to wrestle with one should i actually hit it.

All good scaled the last climb of the day, gentle 10ish miles to San Julian, were we have booked an AirB&B, then three guys in a pick up stopped, was all over us handing out water, chocolate bars, we did not have the heart to tell them we only had a little bit to go, so with the normal selfies and one guy falling in love with Bingo’s bear and loads more pictures, we set of the last few miles. Tried to stop in a restaurant just out of town but it was closed, so headed straight for the digs. Nice early finish, so plenty of time to have a few refreshments and plan the next couple of day.

Nice to have a great days riding.

Day 11 Saturrday 25th January 2025 Puerto San Julian to Tres Cerros

Woke up to a banging on the door of the little AirB&B we are staying. We were both away with the fairies, fast asleep, it was 11:30 at night what to you expect with two finely tuned athletes. All relax it was the landlady with a tray of stuff for breakfast and also wanted paying, Bingo and I traipsed down the town in the late afternoon trying to find an ATM, so we could pay the lady, finally found one and got the said money out eventually, not that easy in Argentina, but we manage with the card most times, everyone prefers USA dollars, but we keep them from when we are in a tight spot. Managed to pay the dear, sweet lady, she was very proud of her English, then went straight back to sleep.

Up early for the power breakfast porridge with chocolate, two cups of strong sweet coffee, then on the road just before 6 in the morning, managed to navigate out of the little town, well Bingo did I just followed him, my map on the Garmin, just looks like a plate of spaghetti to me., then onto the famous National Route 3 for 80 odd miles.

Well thats about it really for todays episode, we pedalled for roughly 8 hours, first stint for 4 hours none stop, had an a snack apple, half a banana and of course chocolate, then stopped again after about 2hours – bit of lunch left over sandwich from yesterday good food. Finally pushed on for the last section, we think we may have a place to stay at Tres Cerros, but not really sure, we checked last night but could not ascertain if they were open. Bingo up in front by about 50m, I think he has gone up to a road side shack, it definitely not open, so get on my bike again, pedal up the road, Bingo is in a petrol station, first one we have seen on the route 3 , so have the obligatory cold drink and ice cream luxury, while I am larking about outside with a couple of local guys having selfies and telling the whole world what we are up to, Bingo was doing the proper works and sorting the digs out for the night, they had some rooms at the back of the petrol station, all good. Bit of mad news though we could not get a beer, until the restaurant opens at 8, no big deal, but was thirsty after 87ish miles on the dusty road.

Managed to get a room so all good

A summary of the rides so far

It’s possible the spreadsheet and map below don’t reproduce on the email version so you may have to go to the actual blog to see them.

A reminder of our Charity – Slide Away

Many of you have asked how yopu can donate to our charity Slide Away. The simplest way is to go to our Just Giving page. I’ll spell it out too if you need to type it:

https://www.justgiving.com/page/cyclingtheamericas#sharePage

And we have the QR code as well …

We realise many of you have contributed to our charities in the dozen or so rides we have done before so do not feel you have to contribute every single time. We realise it’s not always easy for everyone especially in the after-Christmas period. In any case we have plenty of time as the Bingo & Gringo are expected to be on the road well into June and possibly July. In fact I have doubts they’ll come back!

Once again a big thank you to you all.

For all of you who follow Instagram nonsense you can catch up with them here:

Week 02 Over the Andes to Patagonia

Sunday 12th January 2025 Ushuaia

Not a lot to report today. I lot more wrangling with BA to see where the bikes are only to be told the baggage claim procedure had been closed!

Monday 13th January 2025 Ushuaia

Today the family back home bombarded BA with social media posts about the luggage/bike situation.

By the end of the day BA had responded to all the negative vibes carerring around the internet and had promised by late afternoon that the bikes would be arriving on an evening flight from Buenos Aires and would be delivered to the door. Naturally they cautiously celebrated with a beeer.

And some more bird and boat watching.

To relief all around the bikes and luggage arrived late in the evening. Including a mysterious pile of medications.

And the bears were safe and sound too after a traumatic week in transit.

Tuesday 14th January 2025 Ushuaia

Wednesday 15th January 2025 Ushuaia to Tolhuin

Early night last night,as we were both excited or maybe apprehensive about starting riding in the morning, big thank you to Steve who paid for our meal last night.

Both up around 6 pacing the little room that has become our home for the 10 or so days, bit crapped now with all the bike gear thrown around. Breakfast and final packing all done, let’s go!

Final pre-ride photo shoot then wobble down the road, pretty experienced now and know Ushuaia like the back of our hand so ignore the Garmin instructions and head straight to National Route 3, through all the back streets and jitties and like true travellers got lost but soon back on track. Bingo notices a cycle path adjacent to the road, so we join that only to be met with a bridge just down the road, only just wide enough for the bike and panniers, first test to see if I could keep the bike straight, no dramas straight through, just as I get through that Bingo said did you see that rabbit, no way I was concentrating to much.

First part of the day we had a few climbs, bikes rolling well, no thanks to BA (this won’t be the last time I mention them) steady away 5 mile climb out of the city, nice road and drivers seem very considerate, great to be back on the road. Drivers and motorbike riders giving us plenty of encouragement. Massive bird of prey swooped down over our heads, as Bingo is the resident ornithologist, he was right on the case, Crested Caracara, (Caracara plancus) another one ticked off.

Both of us enjoying the cracking scenery over the foothills of the Andes, stopped a few times to admire the breathtaking views and take more photographs. Onwards and upwards, stopped for a coffee (it was only 10:00) in a motorbike museum on the side of the road, the route is a mecca for motorbike touring. Chatted to a few of them, funny how they look at you a bit strange when they realise how far we are planning on going, the proprietor of the museum, had a Doors soundtrack blasting out “oh show me the way to the next whiskey bar” well thats thats my ear worm sorted for a while.

On we go to the next and final climb of the day 10 mile up the Passo Garibaldi, gets my head thinking least I will get a biscuit at the top, nice climb easy gradient, just what these touring bikes are made for, none of us pushing the pace, enjoying the ride. Just we as came over top we saw a little bar on the side of the road with a nice view of the river. Stopped there for some liquid lunch, Bingo had a disaster as he put his beer on a roppy table, it duly slipped off smashed the glass, so he had the walk of shame back to the bar, the lady was not around so helped himself to a replacement all good.

Final push to the digs in Tolhuin, however we was both in need of food, a message to feed ourselves when we stop for a beer! So had a food stop just outside Tolhuin in nice a little place Parilla Rio Turbio, with only 3 ish miles to go. We rolled into the little town with no made up roads or street names and finally found the place with help from the local fire brigade. We think we have paid for the digs via paypal but not initially sure, will check later, at this rate we will be on Interpol’s most wanted list!

All in all a good start to the tour.

Thursday 16th January 2025 Tolhuin – Rio Grande

I can’t help about the shape I’m in
I can’t sing, I ain’t pretty and my legs are thin
But don’t ask me what I think of you
I might not give the answer that you want me to
Oh Well, Fleetwood Mac, (Peter Green)

Guanacos (Llamas) and winds

Slept OK, both a bit cold, but woke up to find more blankets in the cupboard, also the wind got up last night and a bit of rain, dogs barking (who let them out) no problem worry about that in the morning.

Breakfast in the digs consisted of last nights left over pasta, so will lunch today, not much of a shop in Tolhuin and none on the ride, so stocked up on as much as we can, Bingo cooked a massive Pasta dish purposely as their are no places to stop for food tomorrow. Chocolates and sweets: obviously I can’t be trusted with looking after chocolates or sweets as they would be gone in the first hour, also cleverly thinking about the wait, however I did relent with two cans of beers – thought they may come in handy.

Left the dusty streets, a bit like the Rio Grande film with tumbleweed blowing in the wind (more about that later) and us cowboys hitting the road just as the dogs are giving us a morning chorus. Another layer on today and gloves an d although the sun is shinning it’s pretty cold. Soon found the National Highway 3 or as it was later called “Highway to Hell”. That’s enough of the song stuff!

Nice steady pace into a head wind but not too bad and managed to keep a decent pace. Bingo is ever vigilant for any wild life or road kill, he has been eating vegetarian stuff lately so even more so. Couple of eagles near the road side, did not flinch as we went passed very slowly. The call went up Guanacos on the right, as per normal I could not see it, but did after some instructions, I think it had green eyes! We will see plenty of these but still pretty cool to see them in the wild.

Further down the High way to Hell we meet a pair of cycle tourers – a couple from the French Alps, she had met her husband in Santiago for the last section of his mammoth tour from Alaska to Ushuaia – respect! A lasting comment I will always remember him saying “it’s good to see some old guys touring, I thought I was the only fool”. The guy’s never been to Aylesham, obviously. They also warned us about the wind! His name was Jean-Laurent Cassotti.

Sure enough the wind picked up straight into our faces for 50 miles at 35 mph head-on, honestly we could hardly go more than 6 mph at times, so tough, our poor little legs screaming for some respite. In the end we collapsed on a bank on the side of the road, just enough strength to eat the last of the pasta dish and a bar of chocolate. Fair play to Bingo he had not eaten it. Nervously we looked how far to go – only 18 miles, normally just over an hour on these touring bikes. It took us 3 hours! Got a round of applause from the police guys at Rio Grande entrance to the city, every major town/city has a Police presence just before you get into the city limits (another song can’t help myself). Finally made it after a coffee and chocolate bar at a service station, the first one we have seen since Ushuaia.

Got to the digs, showered, then went for a take-away pizza – overdid the ordering but it will not be wasted and Bingo had some meat so he was happy, I also had my first taste of “Mate” an Argentina beverage spiked with a few things I think, seemed ok, a bit like a herbal tea.

Going to bed now to rest these little puppies.

Friday 17th January 2025 Rio Grade to Hosteria-La-Frontia San Sebastian, Chile

Well i can honestly stay we are both knackered with a capital K, no songs or film titles today my brain has been done other by the35 mph winds right against us, so sorry for the short journal entry.

Two good things about today our breakfast and evening meal, the bits in between were just plain hard work.

Nice early start after the breakfast of granola and yogurt, these Aylesham lads going all upmarket, then hit the road, nearly said Jack then, but hey ho. Into this massive head wind, to cut a long story short we had this for the next 50 odd miles, just struggling to get above 6 mph. Met a great German guy Nicolas hiding from the wind, he stayed with until the Argentina side of the border into Chile. Just about creeping along, then holding on for dear life when a truck rumbled passed you, my whole body feels like it has be gripping on for dear life for ages, that ain’t a song.

Finally rolled into San Sebastian on the Argentina side, dour little place, asked the miserable bloke in the hostel if they had any rooms, grumpy reply NO!, so waited around for a bit, Nicolas the German guy said he was going to stay in the dormitory by the border control. Bingo and I decided if we could get a room on the Chile side of the border we would go there, Bingo sorted a room out. So we went to the Argentina border control, then 8 miles of no mans land until the Chilean border control. Sailed through the Argentinian side, then struggled to do the 8 miles it was so difficult, creeped through to the Chilean border control just at shift change, no dramas just a bit slow, then crawled to the Hostel-La-Frontia. Only to be met from a guy from Kent -Sebastian from Sevenoaks

Had a beer then into the room for a shower, back out to restaurant – no vegetarian options so had cheesy chips and fried eggs, mate loved it. Bingo had the lamb but sure he was jealous of mine. Said our apologies and retired to bed, two knackered old guys.