Day 82 Sunday 6th April 2025 Puquío to Lucanas

We did not get into the hotel till 3am, this morning, so had a bit of a lay in, no breakfast in the hotel, so had the normal fare yoghurt and porridge, was quite nice taking out time this morning, not rushing around trying to get out of the door as quick as possible.

Just a gentle ride today from Puquío to Lucanas, only 18 miles, but there is a method to the madness, then we can get to Nasca tomorrow, then start to the final descent into Lima, well that the plan, all we have to do it.

First part relatively easy ride to Lucanas, little 7 mile climb, with a very forgiving incline, then a big descent i to the little town, past a working silver mine, thought Bingo was going to go in to the drifts, we did speak with one of the miners, difficult to communicate, least we found out it was silver they were mining, no such luck with entering it though, maybe he thought we would pocket the silver!

Entered the village, found a place to eat, Bingo & Ringo ordered the meal, I walked down the road to hostel, got a phone number for it, after a confusing phone call managed to arrange to meet him at the place, all sorted, but not sure how many people are staying there though. Finished the fine lunch, never had so big portions, maybe things are looking up on the food front hope so.

Got into the digs, then the owner came in, followed by the cleaner lady and her son, was a bit like piccadilly circus at one stage, though we had taken over the kitchen table, laid all the food out and sorting the ride in to Lima out.

Bingo cooked a big Pasta dish, with all the trimming after Ringo and I went to the local shop, to get the fresh produce, garlic, chilli peppers, normal peppers, onions couple of beers, and some yoghurt for the morning, all very organised, early night now, resting these weary bodies.

Day 83 Monday 7th April 2025 Lucanas to Nazca

We gathered our selves together after a wonderful stay, think we took over the kitchen, if not the hostel for the night we was here, people coming out of all the noocks and crannies, all seemed nice they went down to the cafe below, while we ate the delights of porridge and yogurt in the digs, all good.

We are off just a little 5 mile ride down hill, then a 15 mile climb, and whey ho 50 mile descent into Nazca, just as it said on the tin, we rode up a steady climb till 4160m (1370o feet), then one of the best descents ever, down to the ever welcoming town of Nazca,

Well what a ride think we deserved it overtaking the labouring trucks, with a wave and a thumbs up as we came thundering down to around 500m (1600ft), altitude, condors rising majestically on the thermal currents, sure one had is eye on me, as I cornered the switch backs not quite so elegantly, basically wobbling down the mountains, trying to get the wonderful view into perspective. Walking on the Moon, was the song I was singing, never been to the moon, but you never know might me the next tour! I haven’t finished this one yet!

We met a touring cyclist from Dusseldorf (Germany) Toby, sturggling up the mountain about 20 miles from Nazca, he had a long way to go uphill, but didnt look too bothered about it!

Great ride lovely to be in the warm again, as we cruise into Nasca, booked into the digs which Ringo had found, he is a good lad, looking after his dad and uncle, with impeccable manners, all part of the upbringing.

Bingo shoots off to get some money from the bank, then pin drops a location for food, lovely little Bamboo bar showing pictures of the Nazca lines (lines drawn in geometric patterns and distinct animal shapes across the Peruvian desert) We will be riding through the district tomorrow, all being well. Nice meal and a few beers reminiscing on the day ride especially the descent through the moon like scenery.

Day 84 Tuesday 8th April 2025 Nazca to Ica

Lovely relaxing meal, in this tourist town, one of the major touring destinations on the Inca trail, nice to get some nice food and mingle with the tourists all good fun and good to relax a little, this body need it.

Missed the breakfast in digs, 07:00 too late for these athletes, so porridge and yoghurt in the room, then on the road around 06;30, heading for the majestically named city of Ica. Through the Nazca lines—subject of mystery for over 80 years, there are over 800 straight lines, 300 geometric figures and 70 animal and plant designs, also called biomorphs. Some of the straight lines run up to 30 miles, while the biomorphs range from 50 to 1200 feet in length, all very weird and interesting as we rode through the barren desert, my mind going in overdrive as I try to fathom the mystery out, then realise that there are a lot clever people out there than me, let them sort it out, I will carry on singing and pedalling, that’s what I am good at. probably not the singing, though I did have a classical background in St Peter’s church choir, picked mainly on my choir boy looks (self praise is no praise at all) not my voice Mr Fishwick told my Mum, sit him at the front and tell him to mime!

Well back to the riding, just grinding out the miles through the desert, not a lot to see, just loads of sand and sand, interspersed with piles of litter, not nice to see, one of my overriding memories so far is how much littler, there is, we really need to educate and force the major companies to act on this, they are quite willing to sell the plastic bottles, let make them recycled them!!! Sorry for the rant but it really disgusting, something need to be done, very quickly. Not much riding in that little rant, mainly because we made the school boy error of missing a few food stops, just so we could complete the last climb of the day and to be honest it was only a mole hill.

So done that then guess what we are all hungry, with only one bottle of water each, to get to the next town, in 30+ degrees, think we would get used to this, but sometimes pride takes over. Finally stumble into a little town, and have a nice meal and a few soft drinks, makes the world of difference, then canter into Ica, the last 20 miles with ease.

Ringo getting good at booking the digs now, goes upmarket and books a place with a swimming pool, spending his birthday money, good lad, relaxing afternoon by the pool few beers, rest and checking the menu out for tonight’s meal.

Day 85 Wednesday 9th April 2025 Ica to Nuevo Canete

Well hear we go, the second time of writing this, with the confusion and excitement of actually finding a place to stay, I seemed to forget to save the draft version, no worries it will be better second time around, I very much doubt it.

Left the little dark room in Ica after the normal breakfast fare, all pumped up to take Ringo to the seaside, bit like the old Margate trips of old, when Aylesham was vacated for the day during the pit holidays, happy days, off we go in search of sea, sand and sun, what could possibly go wrong.

All three of us stamping on the pedals, must be thought of an extra ice cream or so, within the first three hours we had done nearly 50 miles, good going on these beasts, stopped a lovely little truck stop, with a swimming pool, thats more like it, nice bit of lunch, Ringo does his mandatory triathlon practice with 50 lengths in pool, Bingo and I look on with an ice cream. Soon back on the road with the same determination as before, even more so, as we hatch a plan on the road ( never like plans they always go wrong!), rather than stop in the original place in Chincha Alta, we will press on and go to stay right on the beach, Ringo has two places in mind.

Well that was the start of our downfall like Spike Milligan once poignantly wrote ” “We haven’t got a plan so nothing can go wrong!” well we had a plan for once and it did!

First we need to get of the highway, and get on the road below, well road more like a sand track, so three miles down this track we come to a gate house, guy not the most helpful says closed, or something like that, points down the track says there is another place down there, Ringo say yes another 2 miles, off we go in search of the seaside, plenty of sand no sea!! We come to another barrier, this guy is extremely unhelpful just says closed with the authority Sergeant Major, no means no!!!

So we have a choice go back the way we come (Not a chance) or cycle up the massive sand dune, that sounds fun, mate that was difficult, just got back onto the Pan-Am highway after an hour hilarious fun. Reconvened in a truck stop, they treated us so good, least we had a meal and a few beers, to wash away the sand.

Ringo then said there is a hostel about a mile away, lets try it, finally a bit of luck, the guys lets us in, not the best place, buts its clean and the guy shows us where to get some beers and water so all good in the end, even the owner supplements our beer stocks, when he seen we were getting a bit short.

Day 86 Thursday 10th April 2025 Nuevo Canete to San Bartolo

Lovely hospitality from the host last night sharing a beer with us, as wax lyrical about the days ride, weird place but nice people, as we watch the sun go gown on the dusty sand dunes, with their dogs licking their lips at our succulent calves

No yogurt, so just water with the porridge in the morning, trying to wean Ringo off the staple diet, before he goes home. Pushed the bikes over the sand dunes and back on the Pam-Am Highway, all set for Ringos penultimate days riding with us, afraid its not the most exciting ride, from the dusty village San Vicente de Cañete, to the oh so elegantly named Playa San Bartolo (nice village name and all the best to young Cathal and his lovely family), that’s enough of the soft stuff.

On the tourist trail again now waving to all the motor cyclists, tourist as they give us gentle beep, keeps us going, as we churn out the miles, not going at any great speed, just constant. Hugging the coast, enjoying the cool sea breeze, every now and again we get a glimpse of the Pacific ocean, waves crashing in, looking forward to having a swim later.

Other than the thought of diving into the ocean, not much to see, just lots of beach, sand dunes, takes us a while to find a place to eat along the road, definately the off season, finally find a place that is open in Asia little town not the continent! but only a set menu, little discussion we soon have it all sorted, rice and salad, thats what fuels Ringo, Gringo, Bingo has the whole set menu, nice guy serves us ,wanting to practise his English, gave him a good lesson with a tinge of the Aylesham accent.

Only 25mile to go, Bingo has booked a beach front apartment, hopefully for the right day, last time we let him lose on the booking department he booked a lovely hotel, just the wrong day! but thats another story.

Head in to the afor mentioned Playa San Bartolo, ride up and down the seafront promenade, must be down the near vertical cliff, manage to get the bikes down a set of stone / sand carved steps, onto the lower terrace row, Bingo and Ringo go in search of the apartment, I am left in charge of the bikes, thats my forte, soon have a nice cold beer in my hand, as I diligently look after the bikes, they come back and order me to get another three beers, as they manouvre the bikes back up a steep set of steps to the apartment , message to self get better at reading the information on the places to stay, makes life so much easier. But all well that ends well, soon in the digs, very nice ones, then straight into the Pacific Ocean, felt so good, frolicking in the surf, watching the big boys ride the waves, as we paddled about.

Just enough time to watch the sun set over the ocean, then out for a bit of food, still in bed by nine though.

Day 87 Friday 11th April 2025 San Bartolo to Lima

Nice meal last night, once again let the young gun sort the restaurant out, he never lets us down, worth the wait, which was not wasted, with liquid refreshments.

Ringo’s last day riding with us, we will miss him, nothing phases him, just casually gets on with the riding, possibly the exact opposite of his father, who is a bit of a drama queen I must say, but hey ho we are all different, be a strange old world if we wasn’t.

Of we go all a bit nervous as we know the road into Lima will be very busy, if not unbearable, as we get back on to the Pan Am Highway, we was not wrong, only 50 miles or so to do, but it was horrible, right from the start, traffic joining the highway from all angles, me just gripping my handle bars so tight made my arms ache. Making headway into the massive metropolises of Lima, with over 10 million inhabitants, a daunting prospect.

First we are heading for the district of San Borja, to visit the statue of Wingham’s, other famous son, William Miller (2 December 1795 Wingham Kent – 31 October 1861), better known as Guillermo Miller, was an English-born army officer and diplomat who served in the Peninsular War and the Spanish American wars of independence. There is a street in Wingham, England named after him and plaque, presented by the Peruvian government in 2006, is inside St. Mary’s Church.

The Statue is in a very nice area of the City, flanked by immaculate gardens and a vibrant university culture, after the photos and a nice chat to a Pervian gentleman who was well clued up on William Millers antics, he even went to visit some of his past haunts, we retired to a coffee shop, still had the heart of the City to go through, so a beer was out of the question, even for me.

All I can say about the next chapter through the bustling market streets of Lima, is I am glad it is over, how Ringo guided us the through the streets I will never know, going up one way streets the wrong way, just waving at the drivers with a cheery smile, scooting past the market stalls, selling everything and anything, it was nerve racking for an old git like me, that’s for sure. Was so pleased when we finally made it to the apartment, just relax.

Settle in the place, as we have a few days here and relax relax relax!!

[the Saturday, Sunday and Monday were spent hanging around Lima as this was Ringo’s final w/e with a flight home on the Monday. Details in next weeks blog: Ed]

Day 75 Sunday 30th March 2025 San Pedro de Tiquina to Juli, Peru

Andre the host opened up the hotel especially for us, he got the bus down from La Paz, excellent host could not do enough for us.

Breakfast in the hotel in the morning pretty good but Bingo and I are struggling to eat, one of the symptoms of altitude sickness we will need to be aware of. Great pictures as we are leaving, with a llama, wish it was a donkey I would have ridden it up the first climb .

Straight out of the hotel into a 5 mile climb, the first bit was difficult after that it was just steady away, I am definitely feeling the lack of oxygen struggling to get my breath when the climbing gets tough, luckily I have my lad now who can look after his old man, he’s a good lad.

Heading for a small border crossing just outside a small village Tito Yupanqui or something like that. When we arrived at the said place the border crossing was just a chain across the road, with people and dogs going across as they pleased. So we followed bit apprehensive, as we need an exit stamp from Bolivia and an entry stamp from Peru, I know the dogs and the locals don’t bother, it will cause us a lot of hassle later. As we went down the isolated street, a policeman appeared, spoke a bit of English, he said his friend would take us to the Peruvian border control. However he could not give us an entry stamp as we needed an exit stamp from Bolivia, all a bit of a mix up. Hey ho just a very short detour, nothing to worry about. Soon got it all sorted passports all sorted and changed some money over, all good in the end.

Well that little saga was over, stopped for lunch in a small hotel, managed to get some WIFI so bingo booked a place just outside Juli, small town on the banks of Lake Titacaca, sounds wonderful.

Off we go, just under 30 miles with a couple climbs, here we go, spinning the wheels, made really good headway Bingo and Ringo putting on the pace, me just content with keeping the wheels moving, not far behind but soon as I try to push it feel the lack of oxygen, so steady away for me. I nearly missed them in a little village sitting on stools outside a shop, Bingo shouted the whole the whole village turned around and I stopped thankfully. Little jaunt then we should be at the digs, in an hour or so, well so we thought.

Ringo waiting for me at a little junction, Bingo has gone down a ripo road to find the digs, ever thoughtful Ringo says do you want to wait here, no I will come down, wrong decision.

Got down there Bingo with a face like a pickled onion, a pleasant women was trying to sort the place out. But we had very little food and water with us, so made the decision to move on, we were not happy.

Just a little climb out the back on to the road, Ringo sorted another place out 2 miles away, off we went again.

Managed to find the place all booked in, just as we was sorting out the bikes, met an Argentina family touring on bikes first we have seen for ages, nice chat and a few pictures nice family.

All booked in then straight into town to get some more food, then bed.

Day 76 Monday 31st March 2025 Juli to Puno

Clocks have changed here, we are now 6 hrs in front of UK [they are 6 hrs BEHIND us here in the UK – midday in the UK is 6am in Peru: Ed], made it very light at 6 this morning, breakfast in the room normal fare, porridge, yoghurt and biscuits, very nice, on the road just before 7 heading for the Town Pumo, a resort town on the shore of Lake Titicaca.

Nice ride today pretty flat and only 50 odd miles, hugging the shoreline of the lake, 1st stop in a little village Llave, looked for a coffee, but no luck so settled for a soft drink each. Carried onto the next town Acora, got lucky and secured three cups of Nescafe accompanied with pastries, them with the rest of the biscuits Ringo got yesterday made for a nice stop.

Riding along the lake, you can see the remnants of the Inca dynasty series of stepped horizontal platforms on the steep slopes, these terraces served multiple functions, making it possible to cultivate crops at high altitudes and in challenging terrain. There was still huts / houses or cattle stores made out of adobe mud, some still with the thatched roof, others with a corrugated iron roof. We seen locals making rope along the banks of the lake, not sure if they were using the traditional Andean grass, called q’oya or a modern equivalent.

As we entered Puno I suddenly realised I could not see Bingo or Ringo in front, I had been just pedalling along singing minding my own business, stopped pin-dropped them suddenly I am 4 miles in front of them, they stopped for a drink on the side of the road, I passed merrily through, no worries, we were soon back together.

No hotel booked so stopped in a dingy cafe for a spot of lunch ,and booked some digs up by the plaza and cathedral, rode the short distance to the hotel, very nice to, all had a warm shower, washed the gear, then went out for some proper food, in a little bistro Ringo had found.

Day 77 Tuesday 1st April 2025 Puno to Pucara

Went to downtown Puno last night for a Pasta/Pizza meal, quite a nice little place full of travellers, even two touring bikes outside, but did not get to meet them unfortunately, had the meal few beers nice evening. Bingo decided he wanted to do a supermarket shop, was not happy with the stuff Ringo brought back, It was all biscuits and chocolate, tell who brought him up!

Ringo and I had one last beer in a bar, before retiring to the hotel, well it was 8pm, Bingo soon came back with a bag for life, filled up with pasta tomato sauces, onions, peppers etc, we will be camping in the next couple of days.

Breakfast in the Hotel at 6 in the morning, good spread, we all made good use of it, eating everything we could lay out hands on. Hit the road just before 7, with the daunting task of getting out Punto, a very pleasant Town or maybe City who knows. What we did know is that the only way out is up. Bingo is on it, down this street up this street, the up this street, mate you are having a laugh, typically Ringo powers up it like a demon, Bingo and Gringo wobbled up the 1st section, then say sod that, manged to get up there in the end. Good stuff we join the route then, just another 2 miles of climbing, could feel that breakfast rumbling in my belly, thankfully it stayed there just. We moreover I crawled up the hill, luckily a tourist bus pulled in front, then stopped on a corner to let the tourist take a picture of Puno, seemed a good idea for me to take a break and take a picture, why not. Finally met up with the other two, after loads of pictures and explaining what I was up to with all the tourists, was well happy gave me a lovely break.

That was the first and only climb of the day, just a gentle roll up a little gradient all day, nobody putting the power on just nice and easy, mixed in with a bit of bird watching, lovely Owl perched on a telegraph pole, Bingo and his apprentice Ringo all over it, shame we have no WIFI to correctly identify it, but rest assured it will be. We rode straight through the bustling town of Juliaca, riding adjacent to the railway line, that now only runs tourist trains occasionally, very busy town with traffic once again all over the place, the consistent thing is the horn blowing, we were all glad to get of the town.

Very boring flat road, nothing spectacular just a matter of grinding out the miles. We had a little plan to stop for lunch at a place called Calapla, just a little village, stopped in the only restaurant (stretching the terminology a little), we had the set course as there was no other choice, Soup, not sure what flavor but ok, Rice vegetables and Llama, obviously Bingo had three helping of the Llama as Gringo & Ringo concentrated on the rest of the stuff, then the best bit dessert a lovely banana, made the dinner in my opinion.

Least the road was getting better now, off the dusty plains in to the valley with steep mountains either side of us, a lot better, with just over 24 miles to go, young Rylan pulled us home to the charming hamlet of Pucara, and a delightful hostel, with no hot water, WIFI but least its a bed.

Bingo and I went in search of a beer, while Ringo had a cold shower and a shake dry, tough lad, he eventually found us cramped around a little table in a shop selling all sorts but mainly china clay models of Bulls, think this must be a bull fighting village. Went over the road and had exactly the same meal , without the Llama chicken this time and No Banana, once again Bingo had a feast on the chicken.

Retired for bed very early, Think Ringo is excited as it is his Birthday tomorrow!

Day 78 Wednesday 2nd April 2025 Pucara to Pisac

Rylan’s (Ringo) 3oth Birthday whey ho!

We set the alarm early last night, not only to give Ringo his birthday surprise, but to get an early start we hoped.

Not one of the best hostels we have stayed in smelt of urine all the time pretty bad, definitely in the top ten of worst places I have ever stayed, we tried to make the best of it, giving Ringo his yoghurt and porridge, with a superbly crafted Swiss roll, which I had carried for the last three days. Difficult to enjoy in what can only describe as a room with the ambiance of a public toilet!

Finally got ready to ride just after 6 in the morning, that how much we enjoyed the birthday setting, worst was to follow, it was chucking it down with rain and only just above freezing. Off we went three cheery faces heading into the cold and rain, thinking we have nowhere to stay tonight camping it is or is it. We were all freezing after only doing a couple of miles, team meeting basically sod this, lets go back and warm up, see if the rain stops. So off we go back to seek shelter, in the pretty dismal village of Pucara.

We ended up getting a taxi, with the bikes on the top to Písac, a great guy offered us the lift, he took his wife along with us for the drive , really charming couple, stopped at a few places so we could take a few pictures, made us very welcome. The rain only stopped when it turned to snow, it really was a bleak day, still raining when we entered the hippy town of Pisca. Which is a bit of a stepping off point for Cusco, then on to Machu Picchu, so right on the tourist trail, with its narrow cobblestone streets, full of market stalls selling everything llama orientated, with the extra hippy tack of fair trade, organic, crystal energy stuff at ridiculous prices. Fair play it is a pleasant town with a very nice atmosphere, enjoyed a lovely meal and a walk through the bustling hippy town.

Back to the hotel to sort the next few days riding out, with a view to getting to a lower altitude in the not to distance future.

Day 79 Thursday 3rd April 2025 Pisca to Cuzco

Went for a evening meal in the same place that we had lunch, nice place with an extended menu so did not need to eat the same stuff, though the dishes do come out a bit randomly, Bingo’s starter cam out after he had finished his main but hey ho.

Discussed what we are going to do tomorrow, ride the 20 odd miles to Cusco, mainly up hill, visit the animal sanctuary and three Inca sites, namely Tambomachay, Puka Pukara and Saqsaywaman (sounds more Geordie then Inca), seemed a reasonable plan, but I am still struggling with the altitude, so will see what occurs, nothing can go wrong.

All up with the larks, ready and waiting for the breakfast to open, Ringo goes down first, the place is like the ” Marie Celeste”, so we pack up and move out, bound to be a cafe open in the town. Nice found a little cafe that served coffee, very strong coffee I might add, with a bakery next door, Ringo into the bakery gets a croissant and chocolate pastries for each of us, good lad, he did not know they were threes days old! but we all ate them, got to fuel the legs and lungs.

Just before 8 we set off, like I said earlier, I was a bit nervous, done loads of climbing never bothered me before, just been struggling to get enough oxygen in my lungs. So off we go, just get your cadence and rhythm right and pedal, first little bend, two dogs yapping and barking, Ringo videoing them! then Bingo goes past one of then takes a likening to his calf, i can hear him shouting and cursing at the dammed thing, then my turn to go past, ended up with both dogs tugging on my socks, lucky for me the are baggy and elasticated, so they just chewed them! Bingo ended up with a nasty bite on his calf, blood streaming down his leg. Tough lad just kept turning the pedals and carried on in a nonchalant manner, me I was still screaming about my socks!

Was quite pleased as I was feeling the best I have felt since being at altitude, maybe I just needed a bit more time to adjust, felt good climbing again which is a relief.

We soon hit the animal sanctuary, Ringo was waiting for me, Bingo was already on the operating table, with a young Austrian vet administering the first aid, excellent treatment, Bingo ensured her he was fully inoculated against Rabies and Tetanus. What a lovely place to visit, great people who cared about the animals, with the aim to reintroduce as many animals back into the wild as possible. Spent a good couple of hours being shown around looking at the Condors, Spectacle Bears, Mountain Lion (Puma), loads of parrots and Geese, we all really enjoyed the sanctuary and the hospitably they afforded us, brilliant.

Left the sanctuary with a buzz in the pedals, just 8 miles of climbing left, on we go, all of us feeling good, even Bingo with his bandaged calf, tell he is not a Rugby Back, soon hit the top of the climb, had a bit of a rest, then a French couple arrived form the other direction on touring bikes, had a lovely chat with them, they have been travelling around South America for six months and due to fly home to Grenoble from Colombia in August, so we may see them again, the girls name is Charlotte, can’t remember the guys name, but a nice bloke.

Now it was a slight descent onto the Inca sites, all of them were amazing, in awe of the work that they put in, perfectly aligned stones, with no mortar just perfect joints, astonishing they achieved all this without a wheel, thoroughly enjoyed the three sites. Just as we finished the last site, possibly the best Saqsaywaman, the heavens opened, so ended up cycling down the big descent into Cusco with the rain hammering down, Ringo showed his class, came around a tight corner, spotted a bar with a happy hour, he was straight in there, good lad. Had a beer, with a lovely view over the ancient city, sorted out an hotel only a mile away, brilliant, nice result, rain had stopped so just a gentle roll into town and the Hotel Marqueses, in the quaint cobblestone area of the city.

Nice day all around, good being a Tourist for once.

Day 80 Friday 4th April 2025 Cuzco to Curahuasi

Ringo sorted out a lovely meal in an old Manor House, that’s has now been turned into a restaurant, great food and lovely staff made feel so welcome, well we are paying but still nice to see a smile.

We walked back through the cobbled streets of Cusco, thinking about a few lads from Aylesham and one from a way out place called Canterbury or as he likes to call it Blean, who has ever heard of that place, good luck to all the lads who are riding the Tour of Flanders, Steve Richards, Mark Tonks, Carl Whitehouse & the bloke from Blean, (Glen ride hard strong and fast!)

We started our own cobbled adventure, first down to the bank, then up through the twisty cobbled streets, very difficult start, Bingo go run off the road, ended up with a puncture going over a grilled cover over a drain. Traffic was horrendous, beeping cutting us up all the time, you just have to keep your line and pedal, easier said than done when you are going up a 12% climb, but we finally managed it, reconvened at the top, all shaken but not stirred, still in the outskirts of Cusco, through the market stalls and throngs of people, another 10 miles of this, then we are in the open countryside, brilliant.

Little ride up then a 30 mile descent, probably the clearest, traffic free descent I have ever done, incredible, swirling down the traffic free road at 35 MPH for an hour and half lovely, we all so enjoyed it, but all had a little inclination we will pay for this later, but enjoy it while you can.

Right at the bottom of the decent we stopped at a place Kunrnay I believe, not much to write home about the meal, Ringo got defeated by the boiled egg, (remember the struggle I had in the wind ) straight in there boiled egg king. Just a soup with chicken wings, Bingo ate all three, lucky him.

Just a 14 mile climb to do now, you always have to pay for them descents, first bit was pretty steep then just a steady climb, still difficult though just grinding out the steep miles, trying to look at the scenery to take your mind of the relentless strain on my poor little legs. Up and up we go again, there is next to no traffic, just us silly sods and a few farmers, looking at us in amazement. For once all three of us were quite close, really because you cant get much slower or you will slide down hill, thankfully as we came down the mountain the temperature rose, so the dogs just basking in the sun, not trying to eat us, thankfully.

Last 5 mile there was some steep sections, testing the tied bodies, finally made it to the outskirts of Curahuasi, Bingo was there first an secure three cans of beer from a Cafe come trye changing facility , nice cold beer and watch the guys work on the trucks, was so knackered I could have slept there, but Ringo pushed us on to the digs.

Good nights rest required and a Pizza meal and a few beers, in bed by 9, true athletes.

Day 81 Saturday 5th April 2025 Curahuasi to Abancay and then to Puquío

Had a pizza meal last night, Ringo’s choice, not bad neither, nice and big and not salty. Even got it to a film, while we was waiting, no idea what it was though.

Strange little place Curahuasi, though quite busy, had breakfast in the room, porridge and yogurt are staple diet.

With only 40 miles planned today, headings towards Abancay, would think it would be a walk in the park. Always little twist, straight out of the digs, into a 20 mile climb right back up to 15,000 feet (4000m), lovely. I must admit it was difficult getting going, with a cold morning mountain mist hanging over us, just need to get going, soon be warm, I hope.

It did take longer than expected, with heavy drizzle coming down, it was a relentless climb, hardly any respite, just counting down the near vertical miles. It did seem never ending, trying to enjoy the wonderful scenery, but a little difficult as we did not want to stop, don’t think I would have got going again, just gently bentley up this mountain, with less than 4 miles to, we pulled into a little shop / cafe, well earned soft drink and a bar of chocolate, just what we needed. Final push, with the knowledge that we was not going to stop at the top, as it was too cold.

Four miles of slog, until we eventually hit the summit, Bingo and Ringo further ahead, took the chance to put on an extra two layers and gloves, glad I did it was freezing descending, little bit easier than the climb though. The descent would have been absolutely stunning if you could see anything, lovely tree covered mountains, looked like “Gorillas from the mist” with the mountain mist swirling around, made the tight switch backs, with no barriers, fun. Bingo and Ringo had stopped in cafe / restaurant, just on the outskirts of Abancay, two hot cups of coffee, to warm the old bones up then the old favorite chips and egg, for Gringo and Ringo, chicken and broad beans for Bingo, not what he was expecting.

That where we hitched up another cunning plan, lets get Ringo to the sea side and warmer climates, so with this in mind, we rode the last mile or something into the centre of Abancay, found the bus terminal and booked us and the bikes onto the 18:00 hr departure from Abancay to Puquío, an 8 hour bus journey, but hopefully warmer. Always a work of art getting the all the gear onto the bus, this time was no exception, all loaded we are off, an horrendous journey up the winding mountain passes, horns blaring as normal, but did manage to get a bit of sleep. Arrived at Puquio around 2:30 in the morning, managed to get in the hotel just before 3, all knackered.

Lay in in the morning then sort out a few maps, to get Ringo up to Lima, in time for his flight home.