Monday 29th June O Milladoiro to Vigo (Camino de Santiago, still manic)

Must be tired we both slept in this morning, did not wake from the slumbering beds till just after 7, no panic, tranquillo, getting into the local ways, carries on this way, will be knocking back the port in a few days time. It was a godsend anyway nice little spread for breakfast and a chat with all the Camino de Santiago walkers made it worthwhile.

Honest the amount of walkers is unbelievable I did not know there was so many Christians still around, but fair play, it was like going to a rugby game this morning hoards of hikers beating the merry track, all of them giving us a weary smile, even though we are now going away from them.

The walkers, still kept coming, at one stage it was like being at Twickenham on a match day, the area just as affluent, my mind racing for a song, 100,000 things, Kings of Leon, I think still can’t think of the title, but racing around my little head, it will come to me one day, just takes a bit longer now days.

One thing for sure it does keep my head occupied racing through the black depths of my strange head, still haven’t come up with the song, but sure as eggs are eggs, done another 15 mile, how good is that! maybe that’s the answer, never let me know the title of the song, just like the Donkey with a carrot (Lester Powell, that’s a vegetable, not the Welsh meaning, respect mate). Once again it’s yours and Alan Perkins bl** fault we all ended up like this in Sunshine Corner, so thankful, nothing but utter respect for both of you guys Thanks from the bottom of my heart, you are both a credit to the VILLAGE and the community.

Well got that off my chest and not going into any other deep holes, concentrating on the riding, to be honest it easy peasy today, few little climbs and the odd little tight places, but good speed and lovely cool 26 degrees, we are rocking. Not feeling the need to stop, but come past a lovely little cafe in Caldas de Reis, needs must coffee and soft drinks again

We just keep the legs rolling the mind alive, with a smile and giggle we just keep going, that maybe the title of my book, watch this space, got to finish this ride yet. I wish my legs worked as efficiently as my brain some times, always thinking of what I will call this book when it is finally published then that pops into my head, always visions of grandeur

As we enter the city of Vigo (not the village in Kent with a half decent rugby team) I need to switch off the day dreaming mode, so sad was half way through the book signing! It’s a busy place have to get my head into gear or as normal when the going gets tough just follow Bingo, that worked a treat, as I diligently follow him, until we go passed one bar to many, just a mile or two to go, sneak in front at the traffic lights, then pull over, hydration stop, always works!

Just a nice cold beer, few tapas then the last mile, all easy, booked in with ease, shower and little siesta.

Found a little restaurant just up the road, bite to eat, then back to the digs, fed and watered, ready for bed, only to find the room smelt like it had been cleaned with ammonia, the smell was unbearable, eyes watering like mad, Bingo went down to reception, they think it may have been the fridge leaking, either way we moved out into another available room, not great but all sorted in the end.

Sunday 28th June A Coruña to O Milladoiro (Camino de Santiago, Scallop shells all over the place)

Never got to see the game last night, stayed up to 5 mins before kick off at 23:00, just had to go to bed, my little body is tired, thought I would be able to do, but you do what thought did? Not really sure what that means, but my darling Mother used to say it to me years ago, so bound to be a telling off of some sorts! Sure is “a witty, old-fashioned colloquialism used to scold someone who assumed incorrectly or failed to follow through on a task. It implies that thinking about doing something isn’t the same as actually doing” Yep that will be me.

Nice lay in in the morning, breakfast at 8, treating ourselves to a life of luxury, trying to lay in bed for as long as possible, my little legs itching to get going, watch the highlights of the game last night, that’s a wasted 10 minutes, but at least they won. Breakfast is at 8, we are down there around 07:30, few people milling around, so we join, only to be sternly told, by Mother Teresa, that we had not booked an early breakfast so have to wait, I had already gulped down an orange juice so had to sit on the naughty step again. Finally allowed in, to be honest it was not worth the wait, but at least we got a hot cup of coffee and cereals.

Only a short ride planned for today, just under 50 miles, should be a breeze, never is, as we pull these juggernauts of a bike up the early steep climbs, swirling clouds and the threat of rain, made it a chilly start. Always know where we are going, look to the highest point that will be it then, just guiding the bikes up the little country roads, no one about, well it’s a Sunday, either at church or still in bed. Right in the middle of nowhere climbing up a little country lane, massive explosion, mate scared the living daylights out of me, then another one, all together was about six of them, me think oh clay pigeon shooting or something like that, Bingo says they were large flares being let off, for some reason! nothing to do with England winning last night though.

Gradually getting into the days ride, all a bit weird when we start later, good thing it’s not forecast to get hot today, mainly cloud cover with the possibility of rain later. First part of the day is all climbing, a good way to have it, as we bust a gut getting over them, the longest one took a bit of mental strength or thigh power, just tough, then very tough, finally broke through the clouds, with the top in sight, broke the cardinal rule in cycling – stopped at the top, mainly because I had too, searching through my bags for some chocolate, ended up with half a Marathon bar, apple and a handful of jelly-babies, just enough to keep us going. With a little word – stopping at the next place for a coffee.

Sweet, few miles down the road a lovely little place in Ordes “CAFÉ BAR ARMAS” all decked out in Camino de Santiago paraphernalia, I even signed the book, and got a stamp to say we have completed the Canterbury to Santiago Pilgrims walk, well on a bike Hey ho, still done it, all a bit strange as we still had about 24 miles to go till we reached Santiago. Nice little stop, when we came to leave, it was raining hard, put on a few extra layers and off we go.

Last section got a bit busier on the roads, nothing too scary, drivers giving us plenty of room and lots of respect, actually shivering on the bike, possible not going fast enough! Sure enough soon as a little climb came was far to hot, binned the extra layers, just rode through the rain showers, very refreshing. Both of us finally finding some form today, put in a good couple of hours hard work, smashed the ride, never one to give up a Sunday beer pull in around 8 miles outside Santiago, little Tardis place, just a small shack thing from the outside, then a big restaurant / bar in side packed to the rafters with the locals. Couple of well earned refreshments and a plate of tapas (salted cuttle fish) not for me, then the final ride into Santiago.

With me in front, never a good idea when going through a large city, me noticing a load of bikes coming the other way, completely missed the turning, never mind it was the day for the “Santiago de Compostela” sportive ended up going the wrong way through the finish line, with loads of cheers, then past the holy grail for all the Camino de Santiago walkers Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, all worthwhile. We had to walk the bikes through the tight winding streets adjacent to the Cathedral, full of tourist and walkers, all good fun.

Saturday 27th June Barqueiro to A Coruña, (Lovely Bay, Bike Maintenance)

One tough little hill out of the village, just like coming out of St Margaret’s Bay, yet again for the people who know East Kent, gears crunching as we hit the summit, few more of these babies today, so just roll it on.

Bit lumpy all morning with the road twisting and turning up through another forest, head down and pump the legs, more power required, legs say ‘sorry guv’ nothing happening, same old early morning blues, every bone in my body aching and as tired as two electricians, just a little reference.

Still pushing the aching legs through the early morning mist, sometimes think mate it’s cold, just enjoy it, it’s only going to get a tadge warmer, always does, winding up these little lanes, with two planks as legs, surely or Shirley they will kick in soon, either way they need some “Inspiration have I none. Just to touch the flaming dove. All I have is my love of love. And love is not loving” Always love a little bit of Bowie to keep me motivated. That’s me sorted now aching legs or no legs, always going to keep singing.

Sorted me out through the early morning aches and pains, even super athlete’s get the odd pain, I can ensure you Bingo and I were going through the whole lot this morning, sitting outside a nondescript garage forecourt drinking a coffee out of a paper cup and a lukewarm soft drink, just a nod of the head, both thinking what are we doing!

Just push the negative thoughts to one side, deal with them later, more important things to get into perspective, not sure what they are at this given time, but push on relentless. Bit of a party going on in Wingham this afternoon, lovely little baby shower for the “Blooming Gorgeous Courtney” not sure if I am allowed to say that, but I have, all to do with the thing I have, they put some sort of label on it now, I just say it with a smile. (honest I do try and check this load of old words, in the first instance I said with a mile) they are both relevant.)

Have a lovely day, you both deserve it so much & thanks for all the family for helping set it up.

Well that little speech passed most of the day, climbed a massive 5 mile climb, with ease, so easy when my mind is so abstract, get on with the riding, to be honest we both do not have a clue where we are going, keep going off route, sometimes good sometimes not so good, but hey ho we keep going, with a little smile and say that was not so good.

Had a little break in A Coruña [Probably not AC, unless it was a village with the same name as the city: Ed] just over the halfway mark, sat watching the world go by, helped with a beer and a large portion of Tapas, always supplied with pride, so hospitable, gives the legs more energy, well that’s my theory, it works sometimes.

Breeze through the second half of the ride, fuelled with the extra energy, just strolling into A Coruña, maybe a little to relaxed, but you know us, nothing can go wrong! I call a stop 5 miles away, seemed a nice bar, lovely beer and the obligatory tapas, so nice.

All went a bit pear-shaped then, few mechanicals Bingo snapped his bottom Derailleur (gear thing),I just had a slow puncture in the front tyre. Just rolled the bikes in for the last few miles.

Excellent sourcing from Bingo, managed to get a bike shop still open on a Saturday afternoon, taxi sorted to the shop, parts purchased, spent the rest of the afternoon sorting the bikes out, with a little bit of a plan, eat then stay up to watch the football, England playing tonight, it’s now 1/2 hour before kick-off not looking good!

Friday 26th June Ribadeo to Barqueiro (Scented plantations and coastal trails)

Lovely place to stay last night, very bohemian, shame the proprietor was a little shy, think Bingo scared the poor little Señorita last night, though deep down she loved it “I love it when you call me señorita
I wish I could pretend I didn’t need ya” I just can’t help myself sometimes. Some song in that lot of jumble, just can’t think who sang it! [“Señorita” by Shawn Mendes and Camila Cabello: Ed]

Breakfast all sorted, just two guys sitting in their damp cycling gear waiting for the sun to rise, not much said, just me pinching extra chocolate at every opportunity, then sneaked out of the rambling place just as the sun was getting up. All good, just takes a little time to wake up baby, what’s the story morning glory! always go into song when I can’t think of anything to say, certainly passed the first few miles, me belting out songs, as we push through the open roads.

Little bit of a conflab at a junction, route tells us to go left, Bingo makes his own mind up, stay on this road, it will be fine, who am I to argue, good call, as we plod along, soon enough we join on with the original route, little grin and a thumbs up.

Then we turn off, up into the Eucalyptus tree plantations, all managed and cultivated for paper manufacturing, seems like very little wildlife around, except for a few squashed feral cats, not sure if these things are doing anything for the local environment, but least they are bringing work. Up we went a 5 mile climb through the scented plantation, felt like I was a kid again with the Olbas Oil wafting through the air, it did feel quite refreshing , but not sure what it is doing for the local wild life, well they will not have a stuffy nose, certainly no Kola bears about!

Great as reached the submit then a 10 mile descent, that’s good Karma, 5 miles up 10 miles down, good stuff, as we weaved these heavy bikes down the descent, stopped for a picture break and an orange, reminiscent of the South America days peeling an orange in the middle of nowhere and loving every minute of it. Only gone a few more miles, then spotted a little cafe, lovely spot in Ferreira do Valadouro, sat on the side of the road with a coffee and soft drink, feeling good.

On we go, enjoying the downhill sections, giving my legs a rest, honest we both said this morning, we have aches on aches here, just need to keep up the hydration levels to mask them. Stopped again in San Pedro Iglesia, not thirsty but seems a nice place, loving the Spanish tranquillity another sugar fired coffee, watching the world go by.

With a sly look we better get this show on the road, another big leap for mankind as I try to get my leg over the (that’s not what I am thinking) my trusty Surly, think my legs are getting shorter, at this rate I will only be 5 foot when we are finished, whenever that is! Finally get the thing going , my little legs pumping like mad. As we cruise through the countryside, once again heading for the rugged Atlantic coast, still only early but managed to coax Bingo into have a proper refreshment in the busy town of Viveiro looking out toward the bay. Nice couple of beers, we could have had a massive plate of cheese and ham, just settled for the beers.

Just a little 10 mile to go, nice roads, lovely scenery couple of little inclines, all done in a breeze, soon at the deserted hostel, managed to get a cleaner to let us in, waited around a bit then decided to go down to the quayside for a bite to eat, met the receptionist walking up the hill, she was fine arranged to book in later.

All sorted, always takes a while with the Spanish inquisition, they need to fill in such a complicated form for UK nationals now, it was easier in China.[Thanks Brexit: Ed]

Nice afternoon relaxing, sorting out a few more routes etc, then eat! Little walk down to the marina, only sea food on the menu, made do with tomatoes, cheese and chips, all good, then a walk up the steep hill back to the digs. Another nice start in the morning Hey Ho goodnight.

Thursday 25th June Cudillero to Ribadeo ( Rhododendron and rain)

No breakfast cereal this morning, my fault, remembered the beers and chocolate, but forgot the important things, one reason why I never go shopping, so made do with an orange and a bar of chocolate, hey ho, enough to fuel us up the big climb out of Cudillero.

Always going to be a tough start, only one way in and out of the town, here we go, straight into the 3 mile climb, always good straight out of the door, nothing beats warming up properly.

Blowing like a proverbial pig, when I finally made it up to the top, great only 60 odd miles left, what could possible go wrong!, thankfully still early in the morning full cloud cover, even forecast a bit of rain later.

Tough going for the first 20 miles, short sharp climbs, busting the legs and hard to get any rhythm going, just need to buckle down, pedal and look at the wonderful rugged countryside, with rhododendrons popping up all over the verge, not sure if they are classed as an invasive species here. [Not considered invasive: in fact some species are native: Ed] Red squirrels darting around the hedgerows, daring to run onto the road every now and again, least it took my mind of the burning steep climbs.

Both called an early stop, need some coffee and soft drink, my legs are feeling it this morning, little break in Santa Marina, fuelled the bodies with caffeine and sugar, then on we go. Climbs coming thick and fast now, another couple of 2 and 3 mile climbs, with the caffeine pumping around legs getting stronger, onwards and upwards we go, we know most of the climbs are in the first half of the day, so keep going, ticking them off one my one, as we reach the halfway stage.

Another sugar loaded coffee and soft drink, broke the back of the day now, we can relax, so celebrated with a tortilla roll breakfast, better late than never, before we set off again. Just one little climb left now and that’s right at the end, so full steam ahead, get these little legs pumps, great road, new tarmac we are flying, feels great after the early morning toil.

Just outside of Navia, met a couple of guys on touring bikes, well bikes, plastic crates tied haphazardly to the frame, carrier bags hanging off the handle bars, fair play to Carlos from Argentina he had been on the road for three year, mate he looked like he had! The other guy was from Austria, only been riding for a couple of months, but looked like he had been on the road a lot longer, he even had the bloody cheek to say “I was smart like you two when I left” I know we are no oil paintings, but least we have a shower whenever we can! Left them with a safe travels (viajes seguros) salute and off we went. Straight to the nearest bar in Navia, nice little refreshment stop, two cold beers each, watching the world go by. Seen the Austrian guy go past, carrier bags fluttering in the wind, he looked like “The Ragged-Trousered Philanthropists” [a book by Robert Tressell written in 1914. He was an Irishman working as a house painter in Hastings. The book was subtitled ‘Being the story of twelve months in Hell, told by one of the damned’.] as he went on his merry way.

We soon joined him, Bingo missed him, but I got a wave, whiff of him and smile as he was snuggling under a tree, keeping out of the rain, for us the rain was a blessing in disguise, felt a bit refreshing, as we forged ahead. Still eating up the miles, down the last climb with ease, then pulled over in a little truck stop / bar place Tapia de Casariego, sat outside with a beer, got chatting to a guy, travelling around with his family, he was so interested, loved my South America shirt, took a photo of it, we got him onto the blog site, he was so interested in the whole experience, as it was raining, we had the time and the patience to go through the whole lot, his wife and kids, begging him to move on, he was having none of it.

After that little escapade, just a short ride into Ribadeo, across the rickety old bridge over Ribadeo Estuary, the bike path only just wide enough for the touring bikes, had to concentrate to keep the line. Then into the hostel, lovely rambling house, but the owner is a bit shy, think Bingo scared her. Easy done showered, clothes washed, need to eat, then bed.

Little walk down the small town, nice Italian place all fed, feel good, bed is beckoning.

Sunday 21st June Bilbao to Hoznayo (Longest day of the year, garlands in the hair)

Another little pension place in the dead centre of Bilbao, poxy Alpen for breakfast again, with a twist of a Twix bar only one finger though, my mind racing “one finger of fudge is just enough to give the kids a treat” anyway I had a finger in my muesli this morning, how many people can say that! That’s me on stupid commercials all day, could be fun.

As I just mentioned right in the centre of Bilbao, there is a reason it was so cheap, bit of a theme going on here again, as we cycled through the misty Sunday morning, the girls who didn’t do so well last night still plying their trade, I must admit we got a few raised eyebrows as we wobbled passed the unlucky or maybe lucky girls, still standing at the corners.

Not for us we have some serious climbing to get on with. First out of the city, through the historical docklands of a very impressive place, then finally out of the city into the parklands, down to a great bay, lovely sandy beach, with nearly a fortnight in my old and weary legs, just a thought, soon got the legs pumping up the first climb of eight today, hey ho keep going. Climbs coming thick and fast, some little steep blighters, but it’s good we are doing them before the sun gets up.

Nice little stop in Castro-Urdiales, once again a lesson in the Basque etiquette all taken on board, but forgotten as the next climb comes, great lad though was very interested in what we were up to, then just said el loca, with a smile. Sun getting up now as the climbs do the same, the glistening Aylesham thighs sparkling in the Basque sunshine, quite ironic as we enter the old iron mining centre of northern Spain, Bingo in his element as we sit down for another drink, it is hot overlooking the old mine works. Took me an age to get him away from it, then I’m sure he changed the route we ended up all over the place through old tunnels up shale jitties, mate I was mined out! only because I could not stay upright on the old miners tracks. Nice little track, but so good to get back onto the proper roads

On we go passing the “Camino de Santiago signs, seems like so many people walking the pilgrimage, met a lovely, Anglo / Irish / America couple walking a bit of the route, they was so impressed we started off in Canterbury or near by if you want to be pedantic, no way were we on a pilgrimage, just a simple bike ride, sure they was suitable impressed.

On we went, the sun got hotter the legs got tired, but on we press, just two climbs to go, first one done in a breeze, nice shady tree-lined lane, little bit of respite through the little town of Treto, some sort of parade going on, funny how we always get caught up the weird and wonderful things people get up up to, sounded like the Scottish lad from Boston had relocated, big parade down the high street lead by three bagpipe players, did not look Scottish have to get the Ed to research that! [the Galician gaita is a type of bagpipe common to this part of Spain: Ed] followed by loads of guys in studded clogs, maybe the Dutch team have turned up as well, all good for us as we had another beer and watched it all go by.

Only 6 or so miles to go, with a bit of climb, nothing big about the climb just a bit hot and sticky, soon sort it out, with a breath of fresh air sweep into Hoznayo, little town just outside Santander, surprising busy, think we may be getting a bit of a following another wedding party, all quietly moved away when two sweaty Aylesham guys walked in, to be honest I was too knackered to raise a smile, just needed a cold beer and a rest.

Great that we were in such a small town, just next door to eat then bed, another great day, too tired to party, so the garlands will have to wait for another year.